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waw47
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 Posted - February 10 2014 : 2:57:30 PM
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| Frank, Your 33819 NYC car and your 33818 GN car are "Hay-Jector" stock cars.
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Posted - February 25 2014 : 08:11:28 AM
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quote:Frank, Your 33819 NYC car and your 33818 GN car are "Hay-Jector" stock cars.
Originally posted by waw47Â -Â February 10 2014Â :Â 2:57:30 PM
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Yes Bill, I know that but when putting words down, here, I say what I see.
frank
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Posted - November 04 2014 : 3:10:20 PM
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* Work bench has been taken over with the CRRofNJ 4-4-0 camelback project. You can see a up to date photo here. For a short while some Bachmann old time passenger cars were lettered and numbered for the Lehigh Valley.
Frank
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Posted - November 04 2014 : 3:17:02 PM
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A second view of the work bench today. I reversed the loco to show the backhead firedoors.
Frank
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Posted - November 05 2014 : 12:59:15 AM
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That camel back is really coming along nice. Can't wait to see it finished.
George
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Posted - November 05 2014 : 01:22:04 AM
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| That's looking quite nice Frank. Have you tried firing it up yet? I'm pretty ignorant of all the types of motors, but that one you have installed seems pretty hefty.
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Posted - November 05 2014 : 07:01:32 AM
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Barry Rivarossi used a tender location for the motor in this model. The motor in size is the same as a 4-6-2 had so it had plenty of torque and easily runs this small light loco.
If I haven't messed up the pickup it should work just fine.
frank
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Posted - November 05 2014 : 07:11:18 AM
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When thinking about if done yet all this comes to mind.
* Still more to do. Here is a comparison photo of the two small camelbacks. The CRRofNJ D4 is slightly longer.
* I need to start detailing the roof to give this locomotive it unique look.
1-Side roof vents above each center window.
2-The sliding access hatch for the sane dome.
3-Ejector detail on engineers side of locomotive.
4-Boiler to pilot handrails.
5-Fireman's shelter roof supports.
6-Some kind to tender platform between tender and loco backhead.
7-Marker lights for the smoke box front.
8-Clear plastic windows for the cabs smaller outside windows and on the fireman's side the large center window. Only open window is the large engineer's window.
9- I may do something about the missing compressor and air tank. Not sure what, or where to put them. Also need these details.
10-Platform steps to front pilot, both sides.
last- The needed lettering for loco and tender.
* Everything except the marker lights, tank, and compressor will need to be made from styrene or metal stock.
frank
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Posted - November 05 2014 : 10:48:59 AM
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the Capistrono depot is STILL there!
Used as Amtrak & a Metrolink station 
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Posted - December 15 2014 : 6:39:46 PM
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Recently in a Gilbert train topics I've posted 3 Gilbert cars I had completed painting and lettering. This is the caboose gilbert #6 on the workbench getting done. You can tell that I am using champ decals by the decal film showing, I try to do something about that. Still not done yet.
frank
You can read what is cast on the floor bottom.
" American Flyer, made by A.C.Gilbert Co., USA".
toptrain
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Edited by - toptrain on December 15 2014 6:45:13 PM
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Posted - March 29 2015 : 1:51:43 PM
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Here is what became of this old late 1940 Gilbert caboose. First it is older than any American Flyer S gauge anything. For Gilbert HO predates any gilbert S gauge made.
I don't know where I put the brass handrails for the end platforms.
toptrain
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Edited by - toptrain on March 29 2015 2:00:59 PM
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Posted - May 21 2015 : 09:53:32 AM
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*** Back to the Work bench and the topic of "Watz go'n on! still go'n !"
My work bench has been very busy repaints and lettering of old Gilbert car from the 1930's. Locomotive repairs. Car building. The Ashley shop project. Rehabbing cars gotten at train shows. Still I will get back to the Ashley project once I find suitable windows for the Locomotive shop I started. I am hopping to find similar windows and just take photos of them and try putting them on and see how they will look. Later for that. I still need to finish my Akane 2-6-6-2 that is still apart and the new HO train Company 4-6-0 camelback I recently got. it needs a repairing. I got the parts so it can be done.
** Now on to a old project just to get away from all the other open boxes, and trays that surround me. I have 8 Athearn old all metal tank cars to rehab. 3 Cristal line cars all with different recording markings. 3 Magnolia tanks with different numbers also, and 1 COOP tank car. All these mentioned ones are of the same type, of 10,000. gallons. The final is a 3 dome DEEP-ROCK tank of 15,000. gallons in size I got at the last train show. I started with the Crystal Car line tanks. Once done they will sit on the track and run but will be missing some details. Cant get a lot of these parts anymore. I repainted all the black on the tanks and may do the tank frames. I am up to where I choose couplings and mount them then the frames get painted, and the trucks mounted and they go on the ready car line for pictures. I wonder how many times I'll have to edit this post to get it right.
* Well here is a couple of photos.
frank
** When these Crystal are done this trio of Magnolia cars are next. MPCX 344, 345, and 349.
toptrain
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Edited by - toptrain on May 24 2015 11:26:27 AM
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Posted - May 24 2015 : 06:52:21 AM
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I am still struggling with Magnolia No. MPCX 244 and its bad frame. Last try had the frame come apart again and one end was raised high off of the track. Still going try to get this one back and running.
frank
toptrain
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Edited by - toptrain on May 24 2015 11:18:06 AM
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Posted - May 24 2015 : 08:14:23 AM
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Frank - I know it needs work as you describe but the overall look of it is very realistic. Maybe it's the metal construction, they always seem to look better with age. 
http://tycodepot.com/
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Posted - May 24 2015 : 1:22:24 PM
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Where on earth do you come up with all these Athearn metal tanks? I search and search and have only found at most 3 or 4 of them - Mobilgas and an unpainted single dome, a UTLX triple, and I think one other one somewhere. The only Magnolia in my collection is a Blue Box car with custom decals! So jealous 
--CRC
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Posted - May 25 2015 : 04:50:29 AM
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Connor, At Allentown great Lehigh Valley show I got these 8 tank cars. A plastic Varney Sinclair 38000. A Athearn 3 dome metal Deep Rock missing the frame. A Athearn metal Magnolia with a bad frame and no trucks. A Athearn 3 dome Union Tank car just needing couplers. A Gilbert Mobilgas 517 red tank car in good condition. A plastic Varney Koppers tank car in good condition. A Globe black Sinclair tank car in good condition only needed couplers. And a Globe Shell tank car in need of trucks and couplers. All were $2. each . This was at the merchants square mall great Lehigh valley train show. Don't you live around there.
* These cars show up not often, and not many, and most in need of work. Actually the other two Magnolia and three Crystal car line I picked up through the years and just never got around to building or fixing them until recently. The Athearn ones, the single dome, most I get missing parts, these have a lot of parts and are hard to assemble. The old globe ones have better frames and seem to last longer. The Silver Streak tank cars have been made for a long time so can be found as new kits in the box. These aren't all metal but have wood centers for their tank part. Only 5 different ones are made. The mantua ones are all metal except for the tank overlay which is printed heavy paper. I keep looking for old Red ball tank cars but have never found one. What is real hard to find is two dome tank cars. I only have 2. A brass international, and I think the other is a globe shippers express in black.
*
*
toptrain
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Posted - May 27 2015 : 08:49:15 AM
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*** Here finally are the three Magnolia Petroleum Co. No. 244 is still a little higher on end then it should be but it is the best I can do. They are Athearn metal line cars from the 50's and early 1960's. They are factory painted but didn't come assembled. You did that. The diecast frames are a problem and many need replacement. Shelly use to make a metal frame that would fit. Bowser who made Shelly products no longer does it. I will be tring to use life like or Athearn plastic parts to fix these cars.
frank
toptrain
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Edited by - toptrain on October 10 2016 08:06:54 AM
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Posted - May 27 2015 : 09:13:02 AM
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| Nice set Frank. Didn't even notice the one end being higher until you mentioned it.
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Posted - May 31 2015 : 09:32:03 AM
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The Great Update.
**** Working on the layout. ****
*** Planning, or maybe is it dreaming of the next thing to do.***
** Because, !!!! What am I doing. Have I just started a excuse, or is this my reason for not restarting on a project I would like to finish. The project, a new engine facility, The Central Railroad f New Jersey's Ashley PA. shops of 1890. I did a lot of researching for info on this. I felt I have gotten enough info and started the project. To do this I need to scratch build 4 shop buildings, a turntable, and a roundhouse. I chose a shop building to start. The largest of the 4, a building used for erecting and repairing locomotives.
* Now this building like almost all others has 4 walls. Of which photo information is available on only 2 of them. There is no photo, or drawings of the remaining 2 walls. This is not a real problem for one wall will have the blacksmith shop built opposite it 8 to 10 scale feet away and you won't be able to see any detail on it anyway. The other unknown wall faces away and can't be viewed without difficulty. There is a Sanborn insurance map of the 4 shop buildings giving what appears to be some sort on info when matched up to a existing photo seems to be incorrect. So I will for those walls just make whatever looks to be appropriate and whose details will make sense. That is why I started on this building, on the 2 walls I have photo info of. I progressed along to a point where windows and doors were needed. Locomotive doors need to be scratch built. Windows I still dont know what to do about them. I am toying with the idea of either drawing a pair of them and photo copying them and just pasting them on the walls.
* The amount of work on other things. Railroad cars and locomotives just kept building up. I started with my Akane 2-6-6-2. It has a set of cylinders that have fallen apart. Soldering it back together is a task that is beyond me. I am now on this loco where replacing the one set of cylinders is the way I will have to go. So the 2-6-6-2 is now in a tray on and off to the side on my work bench. I went on to the old Athearn and Globe tank cars and have made good progress on them. Having repaired almost 10 of them.
* A HO train Company 4-6-0 CNJ camelback is on the work bench and in need of some repairs. Once done it can go right to the layout and be run for awhile. Get the 4-6-0c fixed and the remaining 2 tank cars fixed are necessary to making space on the workbench to get back to the my Ashley shop building.
* Things I would like to do are getting repaired, painted, and running a brass 4-6-6-4, and a Winton 4-6-6-6 also. A pair of brass pacific's are waiting to become ERIE G5 class engines. I have old time 0-8-0, 4-6-0. and a 2-8-0 to make into camelbacks. I have a B&O 2-6-6-4 EM-1 that needs refinishing. A brass, like new, Sunset USRA Heavy mikado is waiting to become a CRR of NJ M1 class super Mike. A brass Southern Pacific GS4 is sitting in a box in need of refinishing. Two pairs of brass 2-8-4 types, one pair is L&N the other pair is B&A need something done with them. I have no idea about what to do with them. I have a beautiful brass NYC 4-4-0, the great Speedster #999 in need of refinishing. I even have a set of decals for it. Also in NYC, a T1 electric 4-4-4-4 and a S1 2-8-2 sit in sad shape needing who knows what. A Pennsylvania DD1 needs to be put back together and refinished. Never mind all the engines and cars that need servicing, and buildings that need repairs. I am stuck with a lot to do. Of my 8 Penn-Line ,Varney GG1's 5 need basic cleaning, lubing, touchup here and there, and test running. The remaining 3 , one a refinishing the other 2 victims of Sandy and what its salt water have done. Its devastation to the cars parts, needs a lot of TLC to return, if it is possible, to usefulness. A Famaco PRR B1 and Kemtron small diesel need refinishing.
* Maybe the intelligent use of a dart board, or the Mystic Wee Gee board can tell me which to do first.
toptrain
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Posted - February 01 2016 : 07:27:58 AM
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* A few hours ago a pile of Gilbert parts were on my workbench. Now they are together and I have a Gilbert PRR 0-6-0 #433. It runs good and look OK.
frank
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Posted - February 01 2016 : 5:03:38 PM
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| Looks good Frank.
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Posted - July 24 2016 : 1:32:05 PM
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Well today on my workbench, watz goin on is a Rehabbing of a old Aristo Craft 2-8-0. The loco is getting a new tender and a good tune-up.
frank
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Posted - July 24 2016 : 7:23:14 PM
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| Cool rig Frank. I'm looking forward to your restoration.
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Posted - July 24 2016 : 7:29:25 PM
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| This will be a topper!
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Posted - July 24 2016 : 7:32:26 PM
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That's a sweet looking engine. Admittedly, I have a soft spot in my head for 2-8-0's, but even without that bias, that would still be a real looker.
Carpe Manana!
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Posted - July 25 2016 : 08:34:01 AM
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Hi guys ! well the 2-8-0 I got a few train shows ago at Maryland. No tender and no front axel. I had a new one spooked axel so that fixed one thing. I mated a old cast metal roundhouse tender to it. the 2-8-0 loco pick's up power from both tracks, and doesn't need tender pick-up. I oiled the motor shafts and turned it by hand to loosen it up . It felt like it was glued together. I kept turning it by hand it loosened to where when I put power to the brushes it would turn by the wheel track surfaces with coated to golden goop. Like it sat on a shelf and collected the goop over a bunch of years. Out came the emery paper and slowly it sanded off. Now it picks up power from the tracks and runs good.
I had some old rub on lettering for a Baltimore and Ohio tender so I rubbed it on and some went on, and some didn't. Maybe I should throw my old rub on decals because they really messed up the tender.
Well I'll have to be happy with a old 2-8-0 that runs good, and look bad for now.
** To embarrassed to post a photo.**
frank
toptrain
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Edited by - toptrain on July 27 2016 7:26:22 PM
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Posted - July 25 2016 : 7:46:58 PM
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Here is a video made today of the 2-8-0 running. Click on Flickr link.
frank
https://www.flickr.com/photos/30431536@N03/28472654441/in/dateposted-family/
toptrain
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Posted - September 20 2016 : 09:19:53 AM
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Yesterday I started on repairing a first rum Mantua Mikado. In what is considered as first run type Mikado drive most people don't realize there are 2 types. The first and oldest type drive. And then the second. Both use the same worm gear mounted in a cover. What is different about these first types is how the valve gears mounts to the drive. My friend Charlie gave me this project to do for him. Earlier he had given me some older Mikado drive parts that included parts to this first type Mantua Mikado.
* I'll post some photos of 4 of the 5 different Mikado drives made.
* The first photo is the earliest version Mikado. The object of this repair is seen here.
Sorry about any poor photos.
* This version uses a valve hanger that must be screw mounted to a extension on the cover plate. Only this version uses this method of holding the valve gear in place.
This side shows a missing main rod wich still need to be raplaced. added 9-21-16
toptrain
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Edited by - toptrain on September 21 2016 08:32:27 AM
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Posted - September 20 2016 : 09:25:56 AM
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Here is the second and another old style Mikado drive for the all metal version. It is just a new frame with new style valve gear hangers showing cast on to frame. This style valve gear hanger will remain the same right up to the newest mikado's made.
frank
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Posted - September 20 2016 : 09:35:03 AM
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* The third is the most common and used with mainly the plastic bodied tender, loco cab and pilot. This type had a motor mounted worm gear on the motor which directly drove the geared main driver. This is the most and longest produced version of the Mikado.
* The difference between this one and the forth version is in the forth Tyco stopped using brass bearings on the frame for the drive axels. A cost cutting measure. I have none of this forth type which didn't last long in production and Mantua returned to the third type with bearings.
frank
toptrain
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Edited by - toptrain on September 20 2016 09:38:43 AM
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Posted - September 20 2016 : 09:47:47 AM
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Next comes the fifth and final drive for the Mikado to date. This was an improved drive made by Mantua just before Mantua went out of business and was replaced by Mantua Classics, made by Model Power. This drive went back to the covered worm gear mounted into the frame like the original but different. Mantua classics also used this new drive. Now MRC is now making the Mantua line. I have none of their Mikado's to show. I don't even know if the new Mikado has been released yet.
frank
toptrain
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Edited by - toptrain on September 20 2016 10:00:37 AM
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Posted - September 20 2016 : 09:54:54 AM
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Now a part of this repair is the replacement of a broken original tender truck with one from my Mantua parts box.
* In this photo can be seen the broken truck with the replacement truck siting on the center of the tender frame.
frank
* Here is another photo of the first type drive and the last drive together.
toptrain
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Posted - September 20 2016 : 10:03:29 AM
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More to come once done. Also a description of the first pilot used on the first type drive and a later diecast version the plastic ones copied.
frank
toptrain
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Posted - September 20 2016 : 10:04:46 AM
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I may need still another post to complete this Mikado repair. 8 posts make up this newest addition to this thread on Old Mikado repairs and differences. All 8 posts have been done today and the last 2 are not completed yet.
frank
toptrain
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Edited by - toptrain on September 20 2016 10:25:07 AM
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Posted - September 20 2016 : 10:44:49 PM
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I remember (and have installed) the 810 retrofit kit, which was an open-frame motor much like the one in the first drive and a gear box like the one in the last drive. Those are sweet runners.
This restoration looks like it'll be interesting. Please keep us posted. 
Carpe Manana!
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Posted - September 21 2016 : 07:53:19 AM
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I Saggy! I am trying to get this loco back to as close to original as possible. I had 2 frames and both were no good. I had to use a second type frame and cut off the L shaped valve gear hangers. Now my frame with the good worm gear cover will mount correctly. I have to replace 5 rivets on the valve gear. Still one to go. I have a big problem with the #6375 main rod shoulder bearings. Both of them have been distorted, collapsed, and basically worn out. Need to make new ones. I hope I got some proper size brass tubing. I hope to salvage the hex head 0-80 X 1/4' main rod screws, for the brass sleeve of the shoulder bearings wont allow the screw to come out of it.
* Did anyone know that mantua made 2 different all metal tenders for the Mikado. One is shorter that the other. I think the shorter one is the original. The longer one use later on.
frank
toptrain
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Posted - September 21 2016 : 9:43:26 PM
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quote:* Did anyone know that mantua made 2 different all metal tenders for the Mikado. One is shorter that the other. I think the shorter one is the original. The longer one use later on.
frank
Originally posted by toptrain - September 21 2016 : 07:53:19 AM
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I knew that there were tenders with 2-axle trucks before the ones with 3-axle trucks, but I never noticed that the bodies were different. We live and learn.
Carpe Manana!
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Posted - September 22 2016 : 07:38:45 AM
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Us very observent old timers never miss anything. it just takes us awhile to notice the difference. Years and years. The funny thing about the 2 tenders is the short one came with the first 6 wheel tender trucks. And the other one, the longer one had 4 wheel trucks. Because the 6 wheel trucks had mounting holes between two of the axels, so it car be used on almost any tender.
frank
toptrain
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Edited by - toptrain on September 22 2016 07:40:48 AM
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Posted - September 28 2016 : 4:58:08 PM
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Video made of the Mikado I am putting together test run
frank
https://www.flickr.com/photos/30431536@N03/29957586506/in/album-72157670794564421/
toptrain
" It's a Heck of a Day " !!!
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Posted - September 28 2016 : 6:07:16 PM
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my 3 early mikados,ken
1949,all metal,4 wheel trucks on tender,powered trailing truck on loco,awaiting handrails to be made,real coal,front truck is diecast with built in spring
1952 no coal load other than what i added myself,6 wheel trucks on tender,no frame to tender,and front truck is pressed steel with separate spring and modified chassis to take modified valve gear
1949 this first issue one awaiting repair,again with powered trailing truck,no coal load
the 49 issues also had a 2 peice pilot
catfordken
if you cannot see the light at the end of the tunnel,try turning around
Edited by - catfordken on October 10 2016 09:58:21 AM
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Posted - September 30 2016 : 8:38:28 PM
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Hi ken, nice mikes. The panted one is the original. The unpainted one is the second one made. It is still all metal but has the newer way and parts for supporting the valve gear, as well as the newer style pilot. The second way is what I am trying to do. The first type is just to hard to find. I like the second because it shares valve gear and hangers with almost all the others made.
* thanks for the photos.
frank
toptrain
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Posted - October 01 2016 : 11:12:29 AM
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apart from the open frame tender,4 wheel trucks,no coal load,the 1st version had a powered truck,as seen in photo,ken
these were on the one for repair,looked odd so removed them
catfordken
if you cannot see the light at the end of the tunnel,try turning around
Edited by - catfordken on October 01 2016 12:38:08 PM
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Posted - October 10 2016 : 08:28:03 AM
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Very good info Ken, just you missed the Die cast framed front pilot truck that was used on the early all metal mikado's. They would soon be replaced with the steel framed, longer front pilot truck, that is still in use today. I wound up as well as putting together one Mikado for a friend, and one for my self. This is the one I did for me. Charlie's one I never took a photo of only a movie of it running. He has it now.
frank
toptrain
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Posted - October 10 2016 : 10:08:15 AM
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You said the frames commonly went bad. I feel like this is something you could remake in CAD or some kind of modelling program, and then 3d print a replacement.
sim-al2
Also since they cut track maintaince the trains had huge trouble making over the railroad by the end
純那
yeah
They did a Rock Island volountarily
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Posted - October 15 2016 : 06:34:38 AM
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my latest 1949 version,as was and in stage for stripping back to all metal body,ken
now have 2 49ers on the go,plus athearn hustler conversion
catfordken
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Posted - October 17 2016 : 09:03:46 AM
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Kenny ; Very nice work as always. Those Mantua Mikes have always been a favorite with me. Lots of wheels. Lots of weight. Lots of power. A great combination that makes a great locomotive.
frank
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Posted - October 17 2016 : 09:05:12 AM
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"Watz Goin on". Gilbert #200 AC Hudson's, and converting them to DC operation.
* * Concerning the Gilbert #200 Hudson. The first one's were made in the second half of the 1930. It was like a lot of electric toy trains of the period, made with a low voltage AC drive. The 110 volt AC drives were a little shocking to those who didn't really know what they had. Shortly after and during the time Gilbert had released #200, European manufactures were turning to DC drives. Gilbert following the trend, and did away with the AC drive and went to DC. Now many of these Gilbert Hudson AC owners, and there were a lot, wanted to run them with their newer trains. This need grew and small machine shops who owners may have been influenced by family members, or just had a few of the #200 Hudson's themselves, sat down and started work on ways to convert these locomotives to DC. From what I have seen and know now, two ways of thinking evolved to answerer this problem.
* * The first, just replace the field winding with a magnet. Problem is was you are keeping a armature winding designed to operate on AC with its style of brushes. As it turned out it worked OK. Being a overbuilt design it was able to handle the change.
* * The second a complete DC motor with the necessary gearing to allow power to be transferred 90 degrees to the original drive gearing. This is a little harder to do but the problem was just a mechanical one, and others in the past had answered this question, in a few different ways. I have one of each type of these drives. So now once I get them going again, I'll have 3 different # 200 Hudson's.
toptrain
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Posted - October 17 2016 : 09:18:12 AM
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* * Got to start somewhere so here is a #200 AC drive.
frank
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Posted - October 17 2016 : 09:20:23 AM
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This is the first way of thinking. "Just replace the Field winding with a Magnet.". Power from the tracks goes to the two original brushes.
frank
toptrain
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Edited by - toptrain on October 17 2016 09:21:32 AM
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Posted - October 17 2016 : 09:31:33 AM
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* * Here is the second way.
* *First the motor package with angler gear. With matching one on shaft to original drive power transfers easily to drive.
* * Next a poor look into drive to see the other gear. The original rotating armature with its shaft were removed and replaced with this new shaft with gear.
Once completed another post will be made for each of the three #200 Hudson's.
frank
toptrain
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Edited by - toptrain on October 17 2016 10:34:39 AM
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