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 Posted - March 21 2016 : 05:09:31 AM
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My wife is from Tuscon Btw. Hopefully will be putting a primer coat on my two cars today, still not sure which railroad they will end up being painted for.
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Posted - March 21 2016 : 11:02:41 AM
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Another car completed....
This car utilizes the Walthers cushion draft gear kits I described in earlier messages, they are not as detailed as the Details West products but they look great all the same.
The decals are from Microscale, they compare favorably to the Herald King Decals I used on my last CNW yellow plugger.
Also note the lack of rivet detail, I think this model now passes as a welded car. What do you think?
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Edited by - Srenchin on March 21 2016 11:07:35 AM
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Posted - March 22 2016 : 02:41:53 AM
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And another completed rebuild...
I used a Herald King Decal set on this car. Stay tuned for one more...
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Edited by - Srenchin on March 22 2016 02:43:10 AM
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Posted - March 22 2016 : 8:18:19 PM
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Here is the last car from the batch...
Stay tuned for the next set...
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Posted - March 22 2016 : 8:34:00 PM
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My next batch of ten rebuilds will include the following cars...
Two Santa Fe Shock Control cars with square heralds (click on link below)...
http://www.rr-fallenflags.org/atsf/atsf12965akg.jpg
Three Santa Fe Shock Control cars with round heralds (click on link below)...
http://www.rr-fallenflags.org/atsf/atsf14669akg.jpg
Three Denver and Rio Grande Western plug door box cars (click on link below) ....
http://www.rr-fallenflags.org/drgw/drgw60915ajs.jpg
Two Union Pacific Double Door boxcar brown cars similar to this (click on link below)...
http://www.rr-fallenflags.org/up/up164241akg.jpg
(This is a combo plug/sliding door car, mine will have two sliding doors)
Stay tuned for rebuilding posts...
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Edited by - Srenchin on March 23 2016 1:48:13 PM
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Posted - March 23 2016 : 12:23:16 AM
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So, do you have any plans for all those orphaned Tyco trucks?
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Posted - March 23 2016 : 12:48:38 AM
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quote:So, do you have any plans for all those orphaned Tyco trucks?
Originally posted by ZeldaTheSwordsman - March 23 2016 : 12:23:16 AM
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Actually I don't have the original trucks for most of my cars. Most sellers are willing to cut the price of their pluggers if I allow them to salvage the Tyco trucks before the sale. That being said, I do have a one gallon zip lock bag filled to the bursting point with Tyco trucks salvaged from other cars.
Why do you ask?
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Posted - March 23 2016 : 01:34:24 AM
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Finally got around to figuring out what railroad I am going to paint my two pluggers, Northern pacific and CNW, that being said what brand/color of arylic should I use, one in NP dark green and the other in CNW yellow. Thanks.
maybe these two?
model flex CNW old yellow, and NP dark green?
Don't want to use enamel paint unless I have to.
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Edited by - fourteen on March 23 2016 02:05:49 AM
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Posted - March 23 2016 : 03:17:41 AM
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quote: quote:So, do you have any plans for all those orphaned Tyco trucks?
Originally posted by ZeldaTheSwordsman - March 23 2016 : 12:23:16 AM
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Actually I don't have the original trucks for most of my cars. Most sellers are willing to cut the price of their pluggers if I allow them to salvage the Tyco trucks before the sale. That being said, I do have a one gallon zip lock bag filled to the bursting point with Tyco trucks salvaged from other cars.
Why do you ask?
Originally posted by Srenchin - March 23 2016 : 12:48:38 AM
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Because I could make use of them. I have some cars that need new trucks, and having existing trucks would make scratchbuilding cars easier... at least, once I have a budget to buy them off ya... 
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Posted - March 23 2016 : 10:36:35 AM
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quote:Finally got around to figuring out what railroad I am going to paint my two pluggers, Northern pacific and CNW, that being said what brand/color of arylic should I use, one in NP dark green and the other in CNW yellow. Thanks.
maybe these two?
model flex CNW old yellow, and NP dark green?
Don't want to use enamel paint unless I have to.
Originally posted by fourteen - March 23 2016 : 01:34:24 AM
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Are you going to use an air brush?
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Posted - March 23 2016 : 1:37:22 PM
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Those of you who have been following this project may have noticed that most of the cars I have rebuilt are decorated in what I refer to as "Dip Job" paint schemes, one solid color on the entire shell. Sure some of my earlier cars may have had black ends or silver roofs, but non of them have been painted in two or more separate colors on the same "plane".
Part of the reason for this is that most freight cars are "dip job" projects" most railroads weren't interested in spending extra money to make their ordinary freight cars look fancy. This simple fact certainly helps modelers for it saves us a lot of extra work and time masking and painting.
However, during 1960's the railroads began to get more image conscience and started painting their new and improved equipment in splashy, bright, multi-colored paint schemes that stood out in a train of otherwise single color cars. I would be remiss if I didn't take on some of these bolder paint schemes in my plugger rebuilding project!
As I mentioned in an earlier message, I am going to take on Santa Fe's Shock Control and Rio Grande's silver and orange schemes. A cursory glance at the prototypes will reveal that an accurate model will need straight lines on the color borders and detail highlights on the safety appliances (i.e. The Santa Fe Shock Control cars have black grab irons and ladders over the red sides and the Rio Grand cars have orange grab irons and ladders over silver sides).
In other words, a good final result depends on perfect masking!!!
The trouble is that masking can be difficult to do accurately when you have to contend with "molded on" details, especially the end ladders!  This problem is compounded when the end ladders need to be painted separately!!!
There is an easy way around this however, simply remove the molded on ladders and replaces them with separate detail parts after painting!
This is how I do it....
First, mask off the detail you want to remove. This is an important step because it helps you see the cut lines and the tape protects the shell surfaces that may get marred by melted plastic....
Second, using a motor tool with a cutting disk, make your cuts along the cut lines, do not linger to long with the cutting tool because the plastic will warm quickly and unwanted distortions may occur on shell, especially when you cut so close to the car's end!!! SAFETY FIRST!!! USE EYE PROTECTION!!!
Third, once you have the main chunk of unwanted material removed, use a sharp knife to clean up the edges (HELPFUL HINT: re-insert the original Tyco frame to help reduce stress on the shell for this step)...
Finally after making the cavity on the shell all clean and square, use a strip of styrene to replace the removed portion of the shell, use plastic putty to seal any cracks and fix nicks...
The shell is now modified to make paint masking much easier, when painting is complete, replace the removed detail with separate detail parts!!!
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Edited by - Srenchin on March 23 2016 1:58:22 PM
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Posted - March 23 2016 : 6:34:10 PM
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Have you ever tried painting small details with a toothpick? I've found them to be quite useful for that.
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Posted - March 23 2016 : 8:16:36 PM
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quote:Have you ever tried painting small details with a toothpick? I've found them to be quite useful for that.
Originally posted by ZeldaTheSwordsman - March 23 2016 : 6:34:10 PM
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No, but I do use super fine paint brushes.
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Posted - March 23 2016 : 8:59:33 PM
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quote: quote:Have you ever tried painting small details with a toothpick? I've found them to be quite useful for that.
Originally posted by ZeldaTheSwordsman - March 23 2016 : 6:34:10 PM
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No, but I do use super fine paint brushes.
Originally posted by Srenchin - March 23 2016 : 8:16:36 PM
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Mm. Well, I had been thinking that it might save effort and material to dip-job the car and then just pick out the grabs and whatnot with a toothpick or similar fine-painting tool. You wouldn't have to mask to do that.
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Posted - March 23 2016 : 11:11:12 PM
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quote: quote: quote:Have you ever tried painting small details with a toothpick? I've found them to be quite useful for that.
Originally posted by ZeldaTheSwordsman - March 23 2016 : 6:34:10 PM
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No, but I do use super fine paint brushes.
Originally posted by Srenchin - March 23 2016 : 8:16:36 PM
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Mm. Well, I had been thinking that it might save effort and material to dip-job the car and then just pick out the grabs and whatnot with a toothpick or similar fine-painting tool. You wouldn't have to mask to do that.
Originally posted by ZeldaTheSwordsman - March 23 2016 : 8:59:33 PM
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Well I can't "dip job" these cars because they are painted in multiple colors. Personally I think it's actually easier to paint separate detail parts than it is to hand paint molded on details. An added bonus is that masking is much easier without the molded on ladder detail in the way.
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Posted - March 24 2016 : 02:30:11 AM
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Are you going to use an air brush?
Yes if I can or brush paint them if I have too, finally got the stirrups glugged on tonight. now just have to wait on which paint to get.
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Posted - March 24 2016 : 12:58:13 PM
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quote:Are you going to use an air brush?
Yes if I can or brush paint them if I have too, finally got the stirrups glugged on tonight. now just have to wait on which paint to get.
Originally posted by fourteen - March 24 2016 : 02:30:11 AM
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I use Modelflex paints made by Badger, these paints are designed for airbrush use so I would not recommend attempting brush painting. Good luck I am looking forward to seeing your progress.
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Posted - March 24 2016 : 6:54:56 PM
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quote: quote: quote: quote:Have you ever tried painting small details with a toothpick? I've found them to be quite useful for that.
Originally posted by ZeldaTheSwordsman - March 23 2016 : 6:34:10 PM
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No, but I do use super fine paint brushes.
Originally posted by Srenchin - March 23 2016 : 8:16:36 PM
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Mm. Well, I had been thinking that it might save effort and material to dip-job the car and then just pick out the grabs and whatnot with a toothpick or similar fine-painting tool. You wouldn't have to mask to do that.
Originally posted by ZeldaTheSwordsman - March 23 2016 : 8:59:33 PM
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Well I can't "dip job" these cars because they are painted in multiple colors. Personally I think it's actually easier to paint separate detail parts than it is to hand paint molded on details. An added bonus is that masking is much easier without the molded on ladder detail in the way.
Originally posted by Srenchin - March 23 2016 : 11:11:12 PM
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Fair enough, sorry for misreading your description, thought those details were the only bits in an alternate color.
Of course, with some things there's molded detail you can't really remove and replace with separate parts or feasibly mask off (This is often the case with Transformers, which I'm also into), and toothpick tips have been a godsend for me there. I've found Apple Barrel and Craft Smart work nicely for handpainting.
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Posted - March 26 2016 : 8:42:14 PM
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If there was one skill I wish I had but seem to have no aptitude for it would be " multitasking " , the ability to handle multiple project at the same time without screwing any of them up. I am a terrible multitasker, if I have too many irons in the fire at the same time I end up burning the proverbial curtains with one of them.
This deficit in my personal skill set came into play today as I was working on my Plugger Program. I currently have three types of cars that I am working on all at the same time and they all require unique detail modifications compared to each other.
Usually I just use "post-its" to keep my notes straight, but for this batch I need pictures. More importantly I needed my pictures organized in such a way so that I could reference them quickly as I moved from one car to another.
The solution is an old TV and movie cliche, the "wall of pictures and notes", a classic prop for any detective or conspiracy drama...
Well, whatever works to keep things on the right track!
Stay tuned for more updates...
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Edited by - Srenchin on March 26 2016 10:55:24 PM
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Posted - March 27 2016 : 2:05:13 PM
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Fine work Scott. I like your photo story on removing the ladders and filling in with styrene.
quote:Here is the last car from the batch...
Stay tuned for the next set...
Originally posted by Srenchin - March 22 2016 : 8:18:19 PM
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Posted - March 27 2016 : 10:31:19 PM
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Well I am still "plugging away" on this latest batch of rebuilds, here is a picture of my work bench with some of the new shells....
The double door cars will be Union Pacific Automobile Boxcars and the others will be Santa Fe Shock Control cars, not pictured are my Rio Grande Cars.
Stay tuned as things progress!
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Posted - March 27 2016 : 10:58:25 PM
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quote:Fine work Scott. I like your photo story on removing the ladders and filling in with styrene.
Originally posted by Barry - March 27 2016 : 2:05:13 PM
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Thank you, I am happy to hear that you are enjoying these posts! In this day and age of "ready-to-run" masterpieces that you can just buy off the shelf, I am beginning to fear that the good old fashioned arts of kitbashing, detailing, and painting are starting to die off. Where is the sense of achievement when you simply buy ready-to-run product and pull it out of a box? Tuning "sow's ears into a silk purses" on the other hand is much more rewarding!!!
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Posted - March 28 2016 : 01:17:37 AM
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Honestly, the superdetail RTR becoming so dominant is hurting the hobby badly. That stuff is very expensive and designed to cater to snobs with big checkbooks and little to no desire to customize their models. Such expensive product dominating the shelves and catalogs is bad news - it crowds out the non-wealthy hobbyists and the general consumers, which is where the real money in the hobby has always lain.
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Posted - March 28 2016 : 10:24:44 PM
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quote:Honestly, the superdetail RTR becoming so dominant is hurting the hobby badly. That stuff is very expensive and designed to cater to snobs with big checkbooks and little to no desire to customize their models. Such expensive product dominating the shelves and catalogs is bad news - it crowds out the non-wealthy hobbyists and the general consumers, which is where the real money in the hobby has always lain.
Originally posted by ZeldaTheSwordsman - March 28 2016 : 01:17:37 AM
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I wonder if there have been any formal studies of the effects of high-end, high cost RTR products on the health of the hobby. It's pretty obvious that the manufacturers are catering to the needs of the retiring "Baby-Boomer" generation who have fat retirement funds to draw from. It will be interesting to see what will happen to the hobby over the next twenty years as the members of that generation pass away.
On a positive note, try to remember that this hobby has been written off as dead many times in the past yet it still survives and in many ways is better now than ever.
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Edited by - Srenchin on March 28 2016 10:26:02 PM
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Posted - March 30 2016 : 11:44:01 PM
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One of my all time favorite freight car prototypes is the classic Santa Fe "Shock Control" boxcars that were introduced in the 1960's. With their bold graphics, bright red paint, and billboard style advertisements for "A Smoother Ride For Freight", these cars certainly stood out in any train! I would clearly be remiss if I didn't include some Shock Control cars among my rebuilds!
The Shock Control cars were so named for the Hydra Cushion "floating center sill" technology they were built with. Unlike the after-market add-on cushion devices that were being installed on older boxcars, the Hydra Cushion system was built right into the boxcar's center sill. In order to represent this cushioning system on my models, it is necessary to modify the accurail frames with Cal-Scale's "Hydra-Cushion" detail kit.
The Cal Scale Hydra Cushion kit part # SC-301 is shown below, the main components include the draft gear pockets, air cylinder and slack adjuster, central and end frame covers, and the distinctive hydra cylinder. Other goodies in this kit include a brake wheel set, end ladders, end walks, and even uncoupling lever brackets!
The instructions are straight forward, interestingly there is a special note (high lighted in orange) about modeling Santa Fe Shock Control cars...
Start by modifying the coupler pockets as shown in the instructions....
The new coupler pockets simply snap together and then are secured to the frame by using the Accurail draft gear screw...
Installation on the Accurail frames is a bit tricky, some of the frame detail needs to be trimmed to get the frame covers to lay flat on the center sill.
This is what the kit looks like for a Santa Fe car, note the lack of the Hydra Cylinder...
In my next post I will install the rest of the under frame parts and then mate the Tyco shell to the modified frame, stay tuned.....
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Edited by - Srenchin on March 31 2016 10:49:16 AM
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Posted - April 01 2016 : 02:47:03 AM
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Having problems myself with one of the two that I am working on. Hard to see the white decals on the decal sheet, and having problems with the decals falling apart. Going to spray them with a gloss coat and see if that helps.
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Posted - April 04 2016 : 8:54:05 PM
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quote:Having problems myself with one of the two that I am working on. Hard to see the white decals on the decal sheet, and having problems with the decals falling apart. Going to spray them with a gloss coat and see if that helps.
Originally posted by fourteen - April 01 2016 : 02:47:03 AM
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Hi Fourteen,
White decals can be a pain to deal with, a magnifier glass and a bright desk lamp help a lot when I do my decal work. As for decals falling apart, I would recommend using a spray on decal film like the product I mentioned using in an a previous post. The stuff is worth the investment in my opinion. Keep me posted on your progress! Good Luck!!!
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Posted - April 04 2016 : 9:12:26 PM
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| Quite the fleet. Looks like the high dollar stuffs!
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Posted - April 05 2016 : 01:58:59 AM
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Sprayed a gloss coat on the sheet, now have a problem with the decals not coming off the backing. Going to order a new decal sheet from microscale. Noticed that the backing is blue, so the white shows up better, and the arrangement of the decal sheet is different also. The CNW boxcar is about reday for some weathering. Will look into the spray you mentined.
Where do you get your vitaclear? a goggle search just comes up with vitamens links
Modeling on the cheap
Edited by - fourteen on April 05 2016 02:07:29 AM
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Posted - April 07 2016 : 09:56:28 AM
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Well I ran into some snags with my Santa Fe Shock Control cars, turns out that the Cal Scale Hydra-Cushion detail parts interfere with the trucks when the car is negotiating 18 inch radius curves.
The solution is easy though, simply trim back the detail parts as shown in the photo below to allow free movement for the trucks...
I also notice that the wheel sets on my roller bearing side frame trucks will come into contact with the Accurail frame on tight curves. This is also easily fixed by adding a small notch in the frame bolsters as shown in the photo above.
And this folks is why you test your work on the layout while building your projects rather than waiting until everything is done!!
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Edited by - Srenchin on April 07 2016 09:57:56 AM
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Posted - April 07 2016 : 10:37:50 AM
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| This thread will serve as a fine reference for a good spell to come.
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Posted - April 07 2016 : 11:10:31 AM
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quote:... Where do you get your vitaclear? a goggle search just comes up with vitamens links
Originally posted by fourteen - April 05 2016 : 01:58:59 AM
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Hi Fourteen,
Actually that is a good question, I bought my Vitaclear spray material from my local hobby shop. The product is produced by a company called Vitchrome and is part of their Vitacal line, the website is here...
http://www.vitachrome.com/
I just checked Walthers and they don't carry Vitacal products but they do have similar products that do the same thing...
- Testors Decal Bonder Refill Spray
- Micro Scale Micro Liquid Decal film
- Badger Liquid Film Decal
I would recommend the Testors product because it is an aerosol spray, the other product are brushed on.
Good Luck!!
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Edited by - Srenchin on April 07 2016 11:11:56 AM
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Posted - April 07 2016 : 11:56:08 AM
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In 1968 the AAR legislated the removal of roof walks. This was to be completed by 1978 for cars in interchange service.
so after that all cars like boxcars were made without roofwalks
Grain hopper cars excepted
Edited by - microbusss on April 07 2016 11:57:07 AM
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Posted - April 07 2016 : 1:46:45 PM
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I can't say why, but those SOO boxes really grab me.
Continued to be amazed how you could take a relatively
cheap toy and transform it into a piece that competes
well with a $50 Accurail product. The weathering is
perfect. Can't say I will abandon my Tyco Billboards
anytime soon, but I am impressed.
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Posted - April 08 2016 : 02:10:59 AM
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The testers decal bonder I hear is gloss coat with a different name. It is what I used on my NP decal sheet, wondering if I sprayed it on too thick?
looking at the web site, I cant find the spray can to bye, or am I blind?
On a better note I got some weathering done on the CNW car today, while doing that I noticed that I had lost the brake wheel. Have to order some more when I can and a few other things. I hope to post some pictures of some of the stuff I have been working on this weekend.
Modeling on the cheap
Edited by - fourteen on April 08 2016 02:11:35 AM
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Posted - April 08 2016 : 09:37:04 AM
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quote: The testers decal bonder I hear is gloss coat with a different name.....
Originally posted by fourteen - April 08 2016 : 02:10:59 AM
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Hi Fourteen,
Uh, I don't think that the product I am referring to is just "gloss coat", where did you hear that?
Also, which website are you searching?
Scott
Proudly keeping Tyco Pluggers out of landfills since 2016
Edited by - Srenchin on April 08 2016 09:41:17 AM
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Posted - April 09 2016 : 09:37:17 AM
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Have seen that posted in a couple differnt places. The part number on it is the same as gloss coat also, or so they claim. Will look to see where i saw that posted.
Had this follow me home yesterday, its a bachman not a tyco. Did some searching online and it looks as if the ends and top are painted black. Nope make that blue. Any C&O fans can confirm that?
And the CNW box car hiding in the background.
[URL=http://s1078.photobucket.com/user/14fourteen14/media/154_zpsj6vd29ep.jpg.html]  [/URL]
Modeling on the cheap
Edited by - fourteen on April 10 2016 12:59:01 AM
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Posted - April 15 2016 : 12:10:54 PM
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Sorry for the lack of messages lately, here is an update on my rebuilding project...
I have finally finished modifying the latest batch of shells, here is a picture of the shells after a soapy bath to remove finger prints and dust....
Next step, painting! Stay tuned.
Proudly keeping Tyco Pluggers out of landfills since 2016
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Posted - April 24 2016 : 10:13:54 PM
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Hello all,
I have been distracted by other model railroading projects so the work on my Plugger program has slowed down a bit, but it still continues!
My latest experiment involves removing the molded on tack boards...
I am using the same "cut and plug" technique that I am using to replace the side ladders.
On my next weekend I will start painting, stay tuned...
Proudly keeping Tyco Pluggers out of landfills since 2016
Edited by - Srenchin on April 24 2016 10:14:27 PM
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Posted - April 29 2016 : 5:24:40 PM
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More progress, I just finished primer painting 15 cars! Take a look...
Stay tuned for more developments...
Proudly keeping Tyco Pluggers out of landfills since 2016
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Posted - April 29 2016 : 6:26:46 PM
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Ooh, someone's been busy
Feedback-hungry attention w****
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Posted - May 19 2016 : 02:09:18 AM
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Any updates?
Modeling on the cheap
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Posted - May 26 2016 : 11:48:34 PM
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Hello All,
Sorry I have been away for a while, I needed a break from my rebuild project so I took some time off to do some other model railroading projects. Any way, I am happy to report that my rebuild program is back in full swing, I am currently working on 15 cars at the same time!!!
Here is a photo with some of my current rebuild projects....
Stay tuned!
Proudly keeping Tyco Pluggers out of landfills since 2016
Edited by - Srenchin on May 26 2016 11:50:57 PM
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Posted - May 27 2016 : 01:20:55 AM
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Good to see you back. Been working on many different projects also. I really need to finish one from like 3 years ago.
Modeling on the cheap
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Posted - July 28 2016 : 4:48:15 PM
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Hi all,
It has been a while since I have posted any updates for my Plugger rebuild project but things are back on track.
Today I just finished five more cars that I had been keeping on the back burner for over two months, here they are....
Note the "Hydra Cushion" details under the GN cars.
Next up will be some Milwaukee Road, Denver and Rio Grande, and Santa Fe cars!
Stay tuned!!
Proudly keeping Tyco Pluggers out of landfills since 2016
Edited by - Srenchin on July 28 2016 7:05:46 PM
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Posted - July 29 2016 : 04:28:45 AM
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Welcome back.
Modeling on the cheap
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Posted - July 29 2016 : 08:58:51 AM
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As always, that's a resourceful variety of outcomes from one basic starting point.
Carpe Manana!
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Posted - July 30 2016 : 1:27:36 PM
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quote:As always, that's a resourceful variety of outcomes from one basic starting point.
Originally posted by scsshaggy - July 29 2016 : 08:58:51 AM
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Exactly Scsshaggy! The plane jane Tyco plugger makes a great starting point for modeling many cars and they can be made to look nice too!!! I would like to encourage everyone who has spare Tyco pluggers to pull them out of storage and rebuild them into beautiful cars.
Proudly keeping Tyco Pluggers out of landfills since 2016
Edited by - Srenchin on July 30 2016 1:29:14 PM
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Posted - July 30 2016 : 9:40:41 PM
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Hi all,
Just finished painting my latest batch of 10 cars, take a look....
The Santa Fe Shock Control cars and Rio Grande cars came out very well, I plan on decalling them ASAP. The Milwaukee Road cars suffered some bleed through in the yellow-orange bands so they will need some additional work in the paint booth but they should be salvageable.
Stay tuned!!!
Proudly keeping Tyco Pluggers out of landfills since 2016
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Posted - August 01 2016 : 6:44:22 PM
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Here is a preview of my Santa Fe Shock Control cars.....
This is one of my favorite railroad paint schemes, I can't wait to see them completed!!
Stay Tuned...
Proudly keeping Tyco Pluggers out of landfills since 2016
Edited by - Srenchin on August 01 2016 6:47:35 PM
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