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 Posted - February 15 2013 : 11:16:34 PM
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I knew it had been attempted and don't know if anyone posted this before but I am a bit curious to know if anyone has attempted this and if so, how did it work out?
http://www.tcsdcc.com/public_html/Customer_Content/Installation_Pictures/HO_Scale/Tyco/F9A/F9A.html
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blaneo
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Posted - February 15 2013 : 11:40:35 PM
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I haven't done it, but I plan to add them to a few of my favorites. I do remember listening to a podcast where they were talking about the TCS in general, and there was mention of the T1 TYCO installation. What I remember about it was that they were really impressed how the engine ran better, smoother, and started at a slower speed. I don't remember which podcast it was, but I know I came home and looked up TCS and seen the price and decided that this was worth the cost even if it didn't work. They talked about the KAT series also and that looks really impressive.
Blane is the name,
Trains are the game.
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Posted - February 16 2013 : 12:21:38 AM
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I saw that they did a power torque engine as well. I am curious to see how that worked out. For anyone doing dcc conversions, that site is a very valuable tool. Currently working on a F3 Proto 1000 conversion (non dcc ready) and they had a walk through for it.
If you are not having fun, you are not doing it right.
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Posted - February 16 2013 : 8:09:24 PM
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I believe one or two guys on here HAVE done Power Torque DCC conversions. I will attempt one this year as well. The trick, in my opinion, is that the metal screws to the electrical connections on the brush plates need to be replaced with plastic screws, which will then isolate the chassis from the motor, and you can then wire up DCC without it being shorted. A bit tricky, finding 2-56 plastic screws, then I found out some Kadee coupler pocket kits already HAVE black plastic 2-56 screws in them, albeit extremely long, and need to be cut down. But it's not an impossible conversion, just needs plastic screws, which is what I think the other guys used as well. :)
Jerry
" When life throws you bananas...it's easy to slip up"
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Posted - February 17 2013 : 10:12:56 AM
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Ray,
Here's a lnk to a discussion on this subject. I have done a PT and an MU with DCC. Not sure where the pic's went from the discussion.
http://www.tycoforums.com/tyco/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=9377&SearchTerms=dcc
/tyco/forum/uploaded/eaglerock109/20130217104809_PTDCC2.jpg
Edited by - eaglerock109 on February 17 2013 5:04:32 PM
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Posted - March 01 2013 : 4:11:45 PM
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quote:
It would work the same way for tyco steam engines with the power torque motor in the tender right?
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Posted - March 02 2013 : 08:03:14 AM
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| It should work the same for the tender drive PT. If you want the headlight to work off the DCC control you'd have to open the boiler and separate the wiring.
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Posted - March 02 2013 : 08:05:34 AM
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quote:It should work the same for the tender drive PT. If you want the headlight to work off the DCC control you'd have to open the boiler and separate the wiring.
Originally posted by eaglerock109Â -Â March 02 2013Â :Â 08:03:14 AM
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I dont really care about the headlight, I just want a DCC system in there, what decoder should I use
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Posted - March 02 2013 : 9:21:27 PM
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I'm partial to MRC and Digitrax, both make an HO decoder that will fit in the tender. I also use the Z scale decoders from Digitrax, they can handle the power with out any problems. DZ123 is the Digitrax decoder I have in my PT Western Pacific GP20. I have used DH123 in Tyco and Mantua 4-6-2's and 2-8-2.
Hope this helps.
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Posted - March 03 2013 : 09:23:24 AM
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I'm in the process of DCCing a tender drive with a CD motor installed as well. I'm going to try and make the headlight and smoker work off the DCC. The smoker will function off of the yellow wire, reverse light. I have the smoker set up this way on a Mantua 4-6-2 I built from a kit, added a Yardbird can motor while I was putting it together.
Tom
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