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 Posted - January 07 2011 : 07:49:52 AM
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Well, I just placed an order for 2-56 nylon screws thru Amazon, looking at the motor there is only one spot that needs insulating from the chassis, so I really don't think this is going to be a hard conversion to do, actually. But it WILL require 2-56 nylon screw for the top motor brush plate. I really don't see what all the fuss is about with this conversion, it looks to be easy with the insulated screw, which is really the only sticking point. You won't find 2-56 nylon screws anywhere but a specialty parts house most likely. But with the Internet, they're easily found and purchased. I'll keep the Forum up to date on my progress.
And I also intend to solder in series a 1/2 amp fuse to protect the Decoder from over-amperage damage. I'd rather lose a fuse than the decoder. So, looks like next week before I get the screws in, then a few weeks before I can run down to my club layout to try it out. But this should be a fun experiment to try and see if a Tyco can handle DCC duties.
Jerry
" When life throws you bananas...it's easy to slip up"
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Posted - January 07 2011 : 4:52:28 PM
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Hi Jerry,
I've been working on the same thing. I used the plastic screws that come with Kadee #5 couplers, they're 2-56 and easy to trim to the correct depth for the PT block. I have a PT wired to a Digitrax DZ123 decoder. It's just a bench test stage now, but it works. The plastic screw insolates the motor. Right now it runs well, my next step will be to drop it into a shell and wire up the lights. Let me know how you make out...........Tom
Oh, I did not use an inline fuse. Seems OK but I like your idea of the fuse.
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Posted - January 07 2011 : 6:52:12 PM
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quote:Hi Jerry,
I've been working on the same thing. I used the plastic screws that come with Kadee #5 couplers, they're 2-56 and easy to trim to the correct depth for the PT block...... Let me know how you make out...........Tom
Originally posted by eaglerock109Â -Â January 07 2011Â :Â 4:52:28 PM
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    Dang, you mean I coulda gone thru my Coupler packets and got "free" 2-56 screws? I never paid much attention to that. I'll have to look thru my collection now, to see if I still have Kadee #5 packet. I don't think I do. I did buy one of those bulk packs with #5's, but that doesn't have screws in it, I've got it in front of me. Oh well. Either way, I'll get mine rolling along soon.
Jerry
" When life throws you bananas...it's easy to slip up"
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bkoch
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Posted - January 14 2011 : 9:21:57 PM
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This sounds very promising! Any thoughts on how well the decoder will package in the shell? I don't have any DCC equipment myself, but I've often tried to visualize a home for a decoder either above the rear truck mount, or on top of a shortened fuel tank weight that has been converted from steel to lead.
Also, do you think that the limited electrical contact area between a 4-wheel truck and the track will make the decoder "fidgety"?
Thanks,
Brian
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Posted - January 14 2011 : 9:48:57 PM
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quote:This sounds very promising! Any thoughts on how well the decoder will package in the shell? I don't have any DCC equipment myself, but I've often tried to visualize a home for a decoder either above the rear truck mount, or on top of a shortened fuel tank weight that has been converted from steel to lead.
Also, do you think that the limited electrical contact area between a 4-wheel truck and the track will make the decoder "fidgety"?
Thanks,
Brian
Originally posted by bkoch - January 14 2011 : 9:21:57 PM
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The DZ123 is a Z scale decoder that can handle HO as well. It's smaller than a dime, my plan is to use 2 sided tape and stick it to the top of the shell above the weight or directly on top of the weight. As for the "fidgety" running, there's one way to find out. I hope to giv it a shot this weekend.
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Posted - January 14 2011 : 9:53:59 PM
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quote:This sounds very promising! Any thoughts on how well the decoder will package in the shell?
Also, do you think that the limited electrical contact area between a 4-wheel truck and the track will make the decoder "fidgety"?
Originally posted by bkoch - January 14 2011 : 9:21:57 PM
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No idea on the fidgety part. But it's worth trying. Once it's programmed, it won't completely stop working, but it might get a bit intermittent. Have to play with it. Far as room, there's plenty under the shell, considering there's no real frame there, should be easy to mount on top of the weight in the middle. Depending on chassis. I'm thinking a 430 will be my first conversion attempt.
" When life throws you bananas...it's easy to slip up"
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Posted - January 16 2011 : 01:46:15 AM
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I had a little time to work on the DCC project and got it from the bench into a shell. I used the Western Pacific GP20. I really like the color of his loco. The pic below show how I wired the decoder and the positve power pick up. The negative pick up goes to the rear truck. The orange and gray wires go to the brush plates, the red wire is under the cover plate screw for positive power. After I took the pic I added a ring terminal to the red wire for a cleaner install. The screw closest to the orange wire is the plastic 2-56 from a Kadee coupler kit.
/tyco/forum/uploaded/eaglerock109/20110116013739_100_2428.JPG
Here's a link to a video of the loco running on the layout.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HZqsGFVPxJY
Edited by - eaglerock109 on January 25 2011 11:21:22 PM
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Posted - January 16 2011 : 10:28:53 AM
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quote:I had a little time to work on the DCC project and got it from the bench into a shell. I used the Western Pacific GP20. The pic below show how I wired the decoder and the positve power pick up.
a video of the loco running on the layout.
Originally posted by eaglerock109Â -Â January 16 2011Â :Â 01:46:15 AM
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Nice job! What size decoder did you decide to use in it?
Jerry
" When life throws you bananas...it's easy to slip up"
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Posted - January 16 2011 : 9:51:39 PM
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Hi Jerry,
I used a Digitrax DZ123 Z scale decoder. Fits nicely into the shell. The loco runs well, A few places on my layout is slows but right now I'm attributing that to dirty track. It will run at slow speeds but the decoder needs a little fine tuning on starting voltage, etc.
Interested how your's turns out, keep us posted.
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Posted - January 25 2011 : 11:25:26 PM
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I ran the WP pulling 6 cars, it pulls well. I'll have to keep adding cars til it cannot pull them to see how many it will pull. I have to install new traction tires before adding more cars. Here is a link to 2 short videos.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2-9gq4qE3uc
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BdTZhmFvwiE
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Posted - January 26 2011 : 08:10:57 AM
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Runs smooth. Nice layout. Makes the headlight superbright on DCC
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Posted - January 26 2011 : 11:31:53 AM
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There are one or two spots on my layout that need attention. The WP does run smooth on most sections but like Tyco's it will find a weak track connection and stumble. My Atlas, Bachmann and Athearns do not have that problem. I need to add a conductive grease to the axles and see if that will help power pick up. Wondering if wipers on the brass wheels, and power pick up wires to the wipers would help? It has been a fun project.
Thanks for the comments.
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Posted - May 20 2011 : 06:52:30 AM
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| I'm new to Tyco collecting and couldnt resist getting a few, lots of childhood memories! Eaglerock109 can you describe your process in detail. I have done this decoder install thing on my old Bachmann's and would love to see my silver streak and my A-team use a decoder. I have the same Digitrax decoder you mentioned and After taking apart my Silver Streak The motor looks identical to your Photo. The reason i ask is im not well versed on tyco and the assorted terminology.Thx in advance
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Posted - October 23 2011 : 10:04:45 PM
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quote:I'm new to Tyco collecting and couldnt resist getting a few, lots of childhood memories! Eaglerock109 can you describe your process in detail. I have done this decoder install thing on my old Bachmann's and would love to see my silver streak and my A-team use a decoder. I have the same Digitrax decoder you mentioned and After taking apart my Silver Streak The motor looks identical to your Photo. The reason i ask is im not well versed on tyco and the assorted terminology.Thx in advance
Originally posted by Porsche81Â -Â May 20 2011Â :Â 06:52:30 AM
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Sorry for the long delay in answering this, I missed the question way back in May.
The first step is to cut the plastic 2-56 screw to the correct length and replace the metal screw on the brush cover plate to isolate the power ging to the brushes. This is the screw closest to the wheels of the locomotive.
To power the decoder I wired the rear Tyco truck to the black wire of the decoder. The red wire from the decoder is wired to the top screw of the cover plate. The gray and orange wires from the decoder to the motor were soldered to the brass contact plate after determining the correct placement for forward and reverse operation.
Last thing was to hook up the blue and white wires to the headlight, secure the decoder into the shell with 2 sided foam tape and reassemble.
Again sorry for the long delay in answering.......................
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Posted - October 23 2011 : 10:29:25 PM
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Cool! If I had this much time I would do something like this!
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Posted - October 23 2011 : 11:31:10 PM
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I still haven't found the time to try this PT/DCC project yet. Just too much else going on. Maybe a fall project when I can squeeze some play time in.
Jerry
" When life throws you bananas...it's easy to slip up"
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