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 Posted - December 26 2010 : 10:40:01 AM
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The Chessie B unit I picked up with the double motors is badly in need of overhauling. Taking the two powered trucks out of the battered shell, they both have quite a few metal "hairs" stuck to the motor. Obviously have been picking up trash for years. So, my first questions are as follows :
- Are the motor windings alcohol-proof? Can I brush/spray on alcohol to clean them thoroughly without risking damage?
- What do you guys use to remove metal filings? Just tweezers and patience?
- Debating on whether to drill out the retaining rivet bolts, and totally disassemble the motors for cleaning or not. Will these motors survive the armature being removed, or do they need a captive metal band to keep the magnetic field intact?
My Santa Fe A shell will need some work, the weight mounting holes have broken off, there's more there, but will need drilling and tapping to allow use of longer screws. But the intent is to transplant the C&O power guts to the relatively decent SF unit. But I need to overhaul these MU-2's, and while I've done the PT motors quite frequently of late, this will be my first Mantua motor experience. So I don't want to ruin them since I just got them. Neither one will turn over with power supplied, but they both turn freely by nudging them. All rebuild suggestions welcome. Thanks ,
Jerry
" When life throws you bananas...it's easy to slip up"
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Posted - December 26 2010 : 8:22:34 PM
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Hi Jerry,
You can safely give those trucks an isopropyl alcohol bath. I've done it on a few, and it really degreases them well. For the filings In addition to tweezers you can use a stiff toothbrush or other plastic brush, and blast them out with air if you have a compressor, but you will need to remove the bottom plate. Pulling a damp rag between the armature & poles can help to pull them out as well. Using a stronger magnet to attract them will probably short out the one in the motor, and disassembly will weaken it as well. Ray M. took one apart using a keeper across the ends of the pole pieces and said it was fine, but I'd try everything short of that. I never take open frame motors apart unless I'm replacing the magnets.
Those motors are tough, so unless the magnets are already shot they should be fine.
The Tyco Depot
Edited by - NickelPlate759 on December 26 2010 8:24:44 PM
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Posted - December 26 2010 : 8:59:42 PM
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quote:Hi Jerry,
You can safely give those trucks an isopropyl alcohol bath. ... disassembly will weaken it as well. ....but I'd try everything short of that. .
Those motors are tough, so unless the magnets are already shot they should be fine.
Originally posted by NickelPlate759Â -Â December 26 2010Â :Â 8:22:34 PM
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Ok, thanks for the advice. I'll remove the bottom plate and replace the rivet bolt with a threaded one, and try to leave the motor together otherwise while cleaning. I'm sure it's just gunked up and choked with debris and oxidation on the copper plates. At least they turn fairly freely, so I don't think it's more serious than that.
Jerry
" When life throws you bananas...it's easy to slip up"
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Posted - December 26 2010 : 9:40:37 PM
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After an alcohol bath de-greasing of any motor to remove the filings, I use pieces of masking tape, sticky side out on tweezers and Popsicle sticks.
~ Dave
~ Dave
They're ALL toys
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Posted - December 26 2010 : 10:09:10 PM
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quote:After an alcohol bath de-greasing of any motor to remove the filings, I use pieces of masking tape, sticky side out on tweezers and Popsicle sticks.
~ Dave
Originally posted by RDC1Â -Â December 26 2010Â :Â 9:40:37 PM
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Another good tip, thanks!
Jerry
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Posted - December 26 2010 : 10:20:27 PM
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Thanks for the memory jog, RDC. I've done that with tape after tapping out screw holes in can motors, but for some reason it didn't come to me at the moment. Never a good sign... 
The Tyco Depot
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Posted - December 27 2010 : 10:58:47 AM
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I brush away the filings with a toothbrush. Also Radio Shack sells an electronic de-greaser spray. This evaporates after spraying it on. It would be safe for the motor.
Edited by - AF Kid on December 27 2010 10:59:50 AM
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Posted - December 27 2010 : 11:30:06 AM
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Be careful when using that Radio Shack cleaner. It's classified as a hazardous substance and cannot be shipped. There are some nasty compounds in it.
http://support.radioshack.com/msds/msd64-4345.pdf
~ Dave
They're ALL toys
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Posted - December 27 2010 : 6:36:13 PM
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I checked Radio Shack's website, but they don't appear to carry the MG Chemicals cleaner with silicone that I use. That's not an issue for me because I buy it in a larger can from an electronics supply house near me, but most people don't have that option. It's a very good cleaner and the nozzle has 3 flow rate settings, which is a useful option.
http://www.alliedelec.com/search/productdetail.aspx?SKU=6610120
There's a very expensive non-toxic alternative if you're really worried about it, but if you don't drink or snort the stuff you'll be fine.
http://www.mgchemicals.com/products/411.html
The Tyco Depot
Edited by - NickelPlate759 on December 27 2010 6:37:01 PM
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Posted - January 05 2011 : 11:40:01 AM
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| I use a sensor and plastic safe electrical contact cleaner. Works awesome. It's made by QD and can be found at Menards or auto repair stores.
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Posted - January 05 2011 : 1:59:41 PM
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quote:I use a sensor and plastic safe electrical contact cleaner. Works awesome. It's made by QD and can be found at Menards or auto repair stores.
Originally posted by Jeepman - January 05 2011 : 11:40:01 AM
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No Menard's here in Virginia. I'll check some of the other parts stores we have to see if they carry that. I would think Radio Shack would have something similar.
Jerry
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Posted - January 05 2011 : 2:14:02 PM
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hey you want one? I'll send it with the track Unless its against PO regulations 
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