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 Posted - November 28 2010 : 10:08:38 AM
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Hi all
I have a nice Mehano 0-4-0T..put it on the test track the other day
and I thought it would fly off into the floor...VERY FAST
Is there any way to gear this down or re-motor...anything to slow it down
Thanx..
caboose 1
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Posted - November 28 2010 : 11:28:36 AM
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I remotored a similar one with a CD ROM motor...
/tyco/forum/uploaded/shaygetz/tycoremotor8.jpg
...runs great and pulls 3 more cars...
http://s126.photobucket.com/albums/p96/1shaygetz/videos/?action=view¤t=0-4-0.flv
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Posted - November 28 2010 : 3:23:40 PM
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What would we do without CD motors? 
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Posted - November 28 2010 : 4:21:36 PM
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quote:| What would we do without CD motors? |
Oh do what I did Had friend repair original motor in my E-7
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Posted - November 28 2010 : 4:23:53 PM
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hi
Dont know if that will work on mine...
Mine has a can motor in the cab...worm gear on the armature
facing the drivers....I like your idea though
would've not of that
cab1
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Posted - November 28 2010 : 4:34:24 PM
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| here's the loco.....IHC/Mehano
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Posted - November 28 2010 : 4:50:51 PM
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well I thought I sent a photo....I'll have to find out how to do that again...
how about adding another light bulb for the rear...that would take "some"of
the voltage down
cab 1
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Posted - November 28 2010 : 4:52:42 PM
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well I guess if I click "send image" it works better
cab1
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Posted - November 28 2010 : 5:32:40 PM
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quote:well ...
how about adding another light bulb for the rear...that would take "some"of
the voltage down
Originally posted by caboose 1Â -Â November 28 2010Â :Â 4:50:51 PM
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Not enough to make a difference. The problem is with the gearing, not the voltage. You don't really want to drop the voltage, as then the engine would probably be very balky since it's probably a 3-pole motor, and would be a headache to get it started with lower voltage. Sometimes it's the worm gear, it's got what I think is called a double helix thread, it's very coarse, so it makes the engine run fast. If you swap it for a single-thread worm, it will cut the speed in half. The double helix actually has two separate threads, whereas the other is a single thread cut, and less angle, hence less speed. Check your worm gear, and see if you can follow one thread around, it skips a thread around a 360 circle. if so, that's your problem with the speed. But dropping voltage is NOT the answer.
Jerry
" When life throws you bananas...it's easy to slip up"
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Posted - November 29 2010 : 10:08:46 PM
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AMC has the right idea. You may be asking yourself, "Where can I get a different worm?"
Try NWSL, (Northwest Short Line). Measure your worm and shaft and see if you can find a match on the NWSL web site.
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Posted - November 29 2010 : 11:10:59 PM
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OK
I'll check the worm gear...
Thanx for your help guys!!!!
cab1
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Posted - December 01 2010 : 02:08:46 AM
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Ted, what's the diameter of the worm? I have some single lead brass Atlas/Kato worms that are great replacements for Mehano twin lead worms, but the diameter has to be close to the original to keep the proper gear mesh.
I'm surprised that's a speed demon, because most Mehano steam is geared lower than their old Rivarossi counterparts.
The Tyco Depot
Edited by - NickelPlate759 on December 01 2010 02:28:40 AM
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 Posted - January 26 2011 : 11:10:31 PM
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hey guys,
does anyone know where i can get a manual for what i think is an AHM/mehano diesal switcher...I bought it at the Anaheim Great Train Expo for $8 and it only lights up when i set it on the track, so i know electrical connectivity is not too much of a problem.
I took a big risk by opening it up as I have zero experience in maintaining and repairing (or even cleaning) my trains and this is the first loco i ever opened up completely. It was hard enough getting the thing to open up../ I opened up all the screws on the bottom, even the coupler ones, before finding the one obvious one outside on the hood of the shell. I found that the electrical contacts were not touching the wheels properly, the frame was gunked up with more than the usual lube that had peanut-buterfied (i scratched the contacts and plastic trying to get it off), etc. I cleaned it up over a couple of days, using a toothbrush, rubbing alcohol, and a few flatheads. I disconnected the motor and cleaned the frame pretty thoughly, then reconnected everything and put it on the track...same result. I then wired the motor to one of my Tyco powerpacks and couldn't get it started... The motor turns when i manually tried spinning it afterward, albeit with some force. The rear and forward axles pickup power and the switcher uses a worm gear to drive the rear axles. I'm thinking that i did not give it 'nough joice when i tried so i'm gonna try again soon. Btw, i have been reading a lot online, here on the forum and elsewhere how to clean the engine and am going to clean wheels using alcohal/paper towel method soon...
Any advice would be appreciated. Thank you.
~Sohan24
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Posted - January 26 2011 : 11:16:28 PM
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Sorry, i forgot to add this...
The copper wiring (i think it is called the armature), is shiny, not burnt/blackened or damaged in any way. Maybe friction with the permanent magnets?
~Sohan24
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Posted - January 27 2011 : 7:56:23 PM
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You are starting out just like everyone else on this forum. Just dove right in. Lots of fun.
Your doing just what you ought to. That peanut butterfied lube is typical of old locos.
You said that the motor turns manually but with some force. DON'T apply power to motor any more until you can turn the motor with your finger very easily.
Is this the vertical drive motor? Do you know exactly which diesel switcher you have?
How about a photo?
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Posted - January 28 2011 : 12:56:53 AM
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Sorry, forgot to load photo i took after THE TRIALS OF PATIENCE...
i tried loading on this blog but error message came up so I made a picasa account with my google profile...
see my pics here:
http://picasaweb.google.com/108896549691600086686/HODiesalRepairPics#
~Sohan24
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Posted - January 28 2011 : 09:13:27 AM
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| Hey Sohan24 I get the same message All you gotta do is load it over & over & over etc Untill it takes
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Posted - January 28 2011 : 5:28:54 PM
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I'm sorry..i don't get what u mean exactly...
~Sohan24
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Posted - January 28 2011 : 5:37:35 PM
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I just tried reaplying power again and the shaft does not turn...
I felt the elctromagnets and they were pretty warm...
I believe it is not turning becuase the shaft is sticky...
~Sohan24
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Posted - January 28 2011 : 5:38:20 PM
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should I take the motor apart and see what's wrong?
~Sohan24
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Posted - January 28 2011 : 10:44:03 PM
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I would not take the motor apart. Try cleaning the armature and shaft ends as best you can with alcohol. Then apply a very tiny amount of light oil to the end bearings. I use Labelle 101, it is made just for small motors. My guess is you have binding somewhere. Is that brass plate on top, that holds the motor shaft in the correct alignment? Are the motor brushes stuck? If they are "frozen" hard against the armature that will bind the motor. Make sure those spring loaded arms for the brushes will move easily. Gently turn the electromagnet part of the motor with your fingers and see if you can feel or see where there is any binding or misalignment.
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Posted - January 28 2011 : 10:53:41 PM
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| By the way, what you have is the Plymouth MDT switcher. You have an early version that was produced from 1970-1976.
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Posted - January 29 2011 : 08:17:24 AM
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| What I mean Sohan24 is you gotta repeat loading picture over & over
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Posted - January 30 2011 : 4:12:41 PM
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ok...
thanks guys,
this helps me a lot
~Sohan24
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