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 Posted - August 14 2010 : 11:27:57 PM
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I've been reorganizing part of my layout, and I'd really like to have an operating crossing gate. I know they're kinda cheezy, and the operation is unrealistic, blah, blah...I just think they look neat, and it's something to point out to the kids.
So here's the question: in your experience, what brand/model works the best? By best I mean it won't derail a train every time it crosses. I had a Bachmann one years ago, and it never seemed to work smoothly. It could have been operator error, though.
Also, I like the type with a gate on both sides, as opposed to some that only have one. But I might change my mind.
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Posted - August 15 2010 : 12:15:17 AM
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the new ones with a electronic eye  I know TOO expensive But we like cheesey I got a Bachmann double but one side is broke 
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Posted - August 15 2010 : 12:29:14 AM
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B77. The Mechanical type of Crossing gates depends on the train to roll over the activator to operate. The problem with that, is the gates do not close until the engine is in the Crossing. Not too realistic. Over the years there has been a few Companies that make electric dual gates that activate when the train approaches. Some are Very Costly. There is one made by MTH HO That retails for $179.00. Has sound unit and lights.. 
http://www.modeltrainstuff.com/MTH_HO_8010001_Operating_Crossing_Gate_p/mth-8010001.htm
You could set up the gates, using a slow motion under table switch machines with miniature photo eyes or detectors to activate the block, so the gates would close before the train gets to the crossing. Would involve some planning and wiring work. But, worth it in the end. Carl
Numquam Immoderatio Satis Est
(Too Much Is Never Enough )
Edited by - VintageHO on August 15 2010 12:34:37 AM
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Posted - August 15 2010 : 02:21:25 AM
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quote:B77. The Mechanical type of Crossing gates depends on the train to roll over the activator to operate. The problem with that, is the gates do not close until the engine is in the Crossing. Not too realistic. Over the years there has been a few Companies that make electric dual gates that activate when the train approaches. Some are Very Costly. There is one made by MTH HO That retails for $179.00. Has sound unit and lights..
http://www.modeltrainstuff.com/MTH_HO_8010001_Operating_Crossing_Gate_p/mth-8010001.htm
You could set up the gates, using a slow motion under table switch machines with miniature photo eyes or detectors to activate the block, so the gates would close before the train gets to the crossing. Would involve some planning and wiring work. But, worth it in the end. Carl
Originally posted by VintageHOÂ -Â August 15 2010Â :Â 12:29:14 AM
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Thanks, but I understand all this and I'm intentionally avoiding it. My layout is built cheap. Very cheap. I know there are "realistic" options out there, but what I'm looking for is the "toy-like" version that works the best. Not trying to be defensive, but $179 is about what I spent on my layout all summer by grabbing up garage sale lots. To spend that much on such a simple item is way out of my league. I'm not a serious modeler...I just play with trains.
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Posted - August 15 2010 : 07:33:02 AM
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Hey B77:
My Tyco one and my Athearn one worked fine!.
Building on the cheap is commendable.
My friend Fr. Bill Swift always tells me that "...perfection is the enemy of the good."
Like the electric eye idea though.
-Gareth
"A is A"
-Aristotle
Law of Identification
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Posted - August 15 2010 : 11:22:45 AM
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| I have a Tyco crossing with the ringing bell and flashing lights. I like it a lot. You have to wind it up for the bell to work. It may be classified as cheesy, but I like cheesy! I've had no problems with it other than the train slowing just a bit going through it.
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Posted - August 15 2010 : 12:27:33 PM
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oh I want one of those! & the single light up one as well 
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Posted - August 16 2010 : 10:43:09 AM
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Posted - August 16 2010 : 1:36:09 PM
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| thats the one I want! plus the single one so's I can rig it up to that one
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Posted - August 16 2010 : 1:55:44 PM
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Any Tyco crossing can be modified with electronic options now avaialble if so desired . I recommend a company called Iron Penguin electronics -online - Has great detection units for around $20.00 or less as well as other MRR electronic activation and strobes....Jusy my 2 Cents
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Posted - August 16 2010 : 6:09:27 PM
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Hey Brian:
Good to see you back on the forum. Hope things are looking up!
-Gareth
"A is A"
-Aristotle
Law of Identification
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Posted - August 18 2010 : 06:56:04 AM
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quote:Hey Brian:
Good to see you back on the forum. Hope things are looking up!
-Gareth
Originally posted by romcat - August 16 2010 : 6:09:27 PM
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Thanks G!! Getting there
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Posted - August 25 2010 : 12:22:47 PM
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I've never had too much of a problem with my old Bachmann crossing (and I'm not about to spend a bazillion dollars on something more "prototypical!"  ). The only problem with it is a Bachmann 4-4-0 can't make it through because the activation plate lifts the tender up off the rails. Other than that, any engine I've had can make it work just fine. I think sometimes the weights in the large end of the gates get a little off of the balance point, so operation might be improved by fiddling with more or less weight or where it's positioned. I've been itching to try the newer Bachmann EZ track gate just because they seem to have improved all their "standard line" products several notches since the olden days, especially engines. I'm betting some of the other accessories have been improved as well, though.
--Rio Grande--Thru the Rockies
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Posted - January 19 2013 : 5:50:10 PM
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If you are planning to use an accessory that relies on the weight of the rolling stock rolling over it to operate , I would recommend that you make sure all of your cars comply with NMRA weight requirements. The weight ratio for HO scale is...
1 once of weight + one half once of additional weight per inch of car length.
So if you have a car that is six inches long the proper weight for it should be four ounces...
1 ounce + (6 x .5) = 4
Be sure to check the weight of all your cars because most manufactures don't include enough weight for proper operation.
Cars to really watch out for are Tyco skid flats with plastic frames. I converted all my skid flats to the older metal frames and that still wasn't enough to get them up to standard.
If you want to add more weight to your cars you can buy special weights meant for model trains or you could improvise your own. Some modelers use pennies as a cheap source for weight.
Another possibility are fishing sinker weights.
The important thing is to make sure you weigh down your cars properly without over loading them! A car that is to heavy is just creates unneeded drag for your locomotives to pull. For this I recommend getting a cheap postal scale to check the weight of your cars.
Proudly keeping Tyco Pluggers out of landfills since 2016
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Posted - January 19 2013 : 6:35:16 PM
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I never did like those "cheezey" crossing gates...but I've been wondering...with the "TRIGOR" threads recently...do "we" think that the Trigor device would operate a grade crossing?
Has anyone seen/heard it done before?
caboose 1
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Posted - January 19 2013 : 7:12:51 PM
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I got one 59Chevy hehe Now I just need a 2nd one
I still would like to get the Tyco gated crossing
Besides we love cheesy stuff
Tyco was good at cheesy & silly stuffs
ok ok Bachmann & Life-Like had silly stuff to
Such as the Bascule Bridge, cattle crossing, & disaster crossing
Bachmann did make a dual crossing with flashing lights & bell Prolly used current from track or accesory hook up
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Posted - January 19 2013 : 7:20:40 PM
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| I have have the Tyco one with the bell. There are two issues that I have had with it. One is that it uses steel rails. These tend to have allot of corrosion and need cleaning often compared to the rest of the track that is NS. Second it does not work vary well with long passenger cars. The gates chop allot since one truck is off by the time the next is on.
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Posted - January 20 2013 : 10:51:52 AM
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| thats a common problem with those crossings Would it help to lengthen the pressure pad or whatever its called?
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Posted - January 20 2013 : 2:15:48 PM
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I have a Tyco crossing signal with the flashing lights and bell. The bell works fine but the lights don't. I think it's a connection issue, as I tested a bulb once and it worked fine, but not when the crossing is hooked up to the tracks.
Should I try re-soldering the wires or something? I don't want to risk breaking it...
I do also have a Life-Like dual crossing gate on my layout:
Note that the signals look very similar to the Tyco versions... I am considering modifying it so the gates are motorized and/or the lights actually flash.
Life-Like also has a switchman that's basically a knock-off of the Tyco version:
Yes, Bachmann did have a dual crossing gate with flashing lights and bell in the 1980s, but it was kind of a piece of junk:
For simple audible/visual HO crossings from the 70s/80s, I prefer Tyco's operating crossing signal. At least the lights actually alternate when flashing!
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Posted - January 20 2013 : 11:36:39 PM
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While I can't vouch for all operating grade crossing accessories, I do know for a fact that you can remove the 9 inch straight track section from Tyco's operating gate accessory. To do this you must remove the pressure plate by popping it out (it is held in place by snap-lugs), once you do this the standard 9" track section will lift right out. Once this is done it is easy to replace the Tyco brass or steel track with a nickle silver section, however you may have to shave or remove some of the ties on the nickle silver replacement track if the tie spacing differs from Tyco track.
The TRIGOR can certainly be used to operate a grading crossing accessory, but if you choose to go by this method you will need to install an electric accessory motor to lower the gates.
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Posted - January 22 2013 : 9:05:52 PM
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quote:While I can't vouch for all operating grade crossing accessories, I do know for a fact that you can remove the 9 inch straight track section from Tyco's operating gate accessory. To do this you must remove the pressure plate by popping it out (it is held in place by snap-lugs), once you do this the standard 9" track section will lift right out. Once this is done it is easy to replace the Tyco brass or steel track with a nickle silver section, however you may have to shave or remove some of the ties on the nickle silver replacement track if the tie spacing differs from Tyco track.
Originally posted by Srenchin - January 20 2013 : 11:36:39 PM
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That can only be done on early Tyco crossing gates from the late 1960s and early/mid 1970s. Beginning in the mid or late 1970s, the track was permanently attached, like Life-Like's version.
The Bachmann crossing gates can have the track removed, but it takes a bit more effort. I replaced the brass track section on my Bachmann flashing crossing signal/gates with an Atlas Code-100 nickel-silver track section.
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Posted - January 22 2013 : 9:40:13 PM
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I have a book somewhere with a diagram that uses close to 12 VDC and operates 2 LED's that flash.
" Heck with counting 'em rivets, TRAINS ARE FOR FUN! Not called the Mad Scientist for nothing either!"
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Posted - January 24 2013 : 11:22:29 AM
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quote: quote:While I can't vouch for all operating grade crossing accessories, I do know for a fact that you can remove the 9 inch straight track section from Tyco's operating gate accessory. To do this you must remove the pressure plate by popping it out (it is held in place by snap-lugs), once you do this the standard 9" track section will lift right out. Once this is done it is easy to replace the Tyco brass or steel track with a nickle silver section, however you may have to shave or remove some of the ties on the nickle silver replacement track if the tie spacing differs from Tyco track.
Originally posted by Srenchin - January 20 2013 : 11:36:39 PM
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That can only be done on early Tyco crossing gates from the late 1960s and early/mid 1970s. Beginning in the mid or late 1970s, the track was permanently attached, like Life-Like's version.
The Bachmann crossing gates can have the track removed, but it takes a bit more effort. I replaced the brass track section on my Bachmann flashing crossing signal/gates with an Atlas Code-100 nickel-silver track section.
Originally posted by wiley209Â -Â January 22 2013Â :Â 9:05:52 PM
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Can't replace the track? That figures.
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Posted - January 24 2013 : 6:16:04 PM
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quote:
Can't replace the track? That figures.
Originally posted by Srenchin - January 24 2013 : 11:22:29 AM
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You could possibly replace the rails, but that could take some effort and a careful hand.
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Posted - January 25 2013 : 07:57:38 AM
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You could easily modify the TRIGOR method and make a longer (up to a foot long depending on your longest stock, passenger coaches & such) trigger pad. If it's got a slight bevel to it on the front end, that would give you the ability to let any stock get over it. Just have to use some very thin actuating material.
@architrains - weight the tender. That will fix your issue.
And again @burlington77 - was all of your stock properly weighted when you used the Bachmann? Usually proper weighting fixes these issues.
Starting my Tyco and other favorites collection over again after 37 years.
My still in progress list of inventory and wantlist: tyconut.com
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Posted - January 25 2013 : 11:22:30 AM
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burlington77 - Also if you use extra long cars Such as the Auto Carrier or the Auto-Train boxcar The gates will go up or lights will go off
Would it help to speed thru the crossings? hehe
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Posted - October 18 2016 : 9:07:13 PM
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Interesting thread. Years I've been on the TF and I never noticed it. Well, here I am
a day late and a dollar short. Since the activating mechanism on these things is
crummy, I wired up the gate man to an on/off toggle. I bring him out for photo
shoots and suchlike.
Edited by - Chops124 on October 18 2016 9:08:57 PM
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Posted - October 19 2016 : 7:16:11 PM
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Love this thread, thank you Chops for bumping it. I chose to automate my Tyco crossing with a Tortoise motor.
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Posted - November 16 2016 : 5:21:35 PM
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I would go with Bachmann or Life-Like because of the double gates.
It's a shame nobody made a crank-operated crossing (manual or motorized).
Feedback-hungry attention w****
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Posted - November 16 2016 : 6:11:09 PM
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quote:thats the one I want! plus the single one so's I can rig it up to that one
Originally posted by microbusss - August 16 2010 : 1:36:09 PM
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I retract my wanting one
I got one Now I needs a 2nd one for the other side
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