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x2f
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 Posted - May 21 2010 : 10:59:59 PM
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Does anyone have a preference? 98% of my North American rolling stock has hornhooks. I always uesd to convert knuckle coupler stock to the horn hooks. I know that nearly everything comes with knuckles now. And when properly installed they work well and look good too. I am probably going to make a "conversion car" so I can run both types. I was just wondering what everyone else does.
X2F
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Posted - May 21 2010 : 11:11:55 PM
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oh I keep horn hooks Easier to use since lotta the older stuff has it One caboose I has I put a horn hood on one end 
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Posted - May 21 2010 : 11:20:20 PM
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Myself being an old school Tyco guy reliving my childhood, I just leave the old horn hooks on all of mine. I really don't have the heart to change anything on the old pieces I have. I understand I will loose major detail on my layout thinking this way BUT, that's just how I, think about the hobby.
What is really nice about this forum is, I have seen & heard SOO MANY different ideas, interests, and thoughts about these trains and layouts.... That's what makes this hobby so great... it's like no two layouts will be alike..!
Walt
Luck, usually comes dressed in work clothes...
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Posted - May 21 2010 : 11:29:42 PM
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| I use both. I think knuckles are probably "better" so to speak, but I don't care to convert everything. I use conversion cars and most of my Athearn locos have a knuckle on the front for looks.
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Posted - May 21 2010 : 11:40:34 PM
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| I have a mixture of both, I tend t prefer the knucle couplers. They seem to keep the cars together a little better, especially in reverse. Just my opinion. I do have a few cars that have one of each so I can run rolling stock that I have not converted.
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Posted - May 21 2010 : 11:44:49 PM
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Hi X2F,
I don't change out my couplers. I use a transition car with one of each coupler on it. It could be very expensive to change over one way or the other. Like Walt, I don't have the heart to change out things on the older cars.
Good luck
Mike
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Posted - May 22 2010 : 12:30:22 AM
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With Kadee couplers. You could do delay Coupling, like when spotting cars in a freight yard or on a siding. Plus you also get close coupling, that sometimes you can't get with horn hook. Carl
Numquam Immoderatio Satis Est
(Too Much Is Never Enough )
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Posted - May 22 2010 : 01:02:53 AM
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| I have three transition cars, one is a N&S auxiliary water tender that I transition engines with. Another is a box car and a third is an express reefer with Magic-Mates, a coupler used by Mehano for awhile the mated with both types. As said before, I don't have the heart to change out older cars.
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x2f
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Posted - May 22 2010 : 09:13:01 AM
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Thanks for the Replies. The biggest reason I haven't gone to all knuckles is that I like the trains the way I remember them as a kid. Much of my equipment is from the 1970's and 80's. I still buy new stuff but convert it to horn hooks. I especialy like Model Power and Walthers Train Line products made from the old Marx and Cox molds.
X2F
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Posted - May 22 2010 : 11:05:41 AM
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Being in a club, running horn hooks would look neither realistic, nor practical. I don't run many Tyco's yet on my club consists, I've some scheduled for conversion though. But I do convert my Bachmann, Life-Like and AHM to Kadee's and weight them properly for realistic running IF I use them for club running. AS far as my regular tyco's and other makes, I won't convert them automaticially, they'll just stay as made. Actually, I usually take the base off , and replace with a Bowser undercarriage, with pockets for Kadee couplers and screw-on trucks. So I don't convert the bases anyway, I just replace them, so if I ever wanted to go back to original, just replace the upgrade base with the original. All I really like are the shells anyway, the bases aren't usually seen much, except in a scale train wreck. LOL.
Jerry
" When life throws you bananas...it's easy to slip up"
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Posted - August 14 2010 : 10:54:00 PM
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I convert all my rolling stock to body mounted kadee couplers. Cars with truck mounted horn hook couplers tend to derail the second you try to shove them with a locomotive, since I like to switch cars, knuckle couplers are a must for me. Besides, half the fun of operating Tyco trains (rather than just collecting them) to me is to improve them so they perform better than they would if left as they were originally designed.
Proudly keeping Tyco Pluggers out of landfills since 2016
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Posted - August 15 2010 : 12:17:23 AM
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| I still want old horn hooks Sides I just deconverted a Froot Loops boxcar back to horn hooks
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Posted - August 15 2010 : 4:33:10 PM
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all my cars are horn hooks, my engines about half and half.
We have a second hand model train shop in town where you can buy and barter. He has an entire shelf of only Tyco that runs between $3-6
He also has every accessory one could imagine. I was looking at the Kadee couplers, and trucks.
To convert to body mounted couplers, steel wheels and maybe steel trucks is more time and money than the car is worth.
I'll stick with what i have. As far as the horn hook being succeptable to derailing when backing up, i find adding weight helps a lot
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Posted - August 15 2010 : 7:34:48 PM
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quote:| He also has every accessory one could imagine. |
 RLY?? oooo Any Tyco old Life-Like or old Bachmann accesoriers??
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Posted - August 15 2010 : 11:31:43 PM
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quote:quote:| He also has every accessory one could imagine. |
RLY?? oooo Any Tyco old Life-Like or old Bachmann accesoriers??
Originally posted by microbusss - August 15 2010 : 7:34:48 PM
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next time i am their, it's way across town, so not an every day trip I'll ask. but i'm a novice when it comes to stuff like this. Even better here is their name The name is Hobby Recycling 616-257-7155. Open noon to 6:00
There is so much besides H O like N, O. O27
Shelves upon shelves. I don't see how he keeps track of it let alone know the value, but he sure knows his model trains. Knows where everything is stacked
I traded in my 12 wheel C S X for an 8 wheel CSX, tired of fighting the car derails. He also had an 8 wheel CSX that was as long as the 12 wheel
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Posted - August 15 2010 : 11:36:57 PM
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Where is that at? That sounds unreal! I'm thinking road trip.
derfberger, you must be a city guy. I love the difference between "city" and "country" people. City people always complain about going "across town" to get something. Us non-city people are used to driving 30 minutes or more just to do the weekly grocery shopping. I guess it's all what you're used to.
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Posted - August 15 2010 : 11:56:19 PM
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yeah unreal indeed Need fast food & the 7up buildings hehe 
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Posted - February 12 2011 : 10:41:28 PM
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Hobby Recycling write up - Wyoming MI
http://www.mlive.com/business/west-michigan/index.ssf/2011/01/hobby_recycling_store_in_wyomi.html
Hobby Recycling Business Information
Location Type Single Location
Annual Sales (Estimated) $500,000 to $1 million
Employees (Estimated) 1 to 4
1 **
SIC Code 594508, Hobby & Model Constr Supplies-Retail
NAICS Code 451120, Hobby Toy & Game Stores
Products, Services and Brands Information not found
State of Incorporation Information not found
Years in Business 9
Edited by - Brianstyco on February 12 2011 10:45:31 PM
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Posted - February 12 2011 : 10:57:18 PM
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| sweeeeet wish I could go there! I'd blow a easy $300
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Posted - February 13 2011 : 02:49:34 AM
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I have both.
I have several dedicated horn hook locos,,A Tyco F9 ATSF, and a couple of Athearn Blue Box locos, a F7 SP in Daylight scheme and a SD45 ATSF in blue pinstripe scheme.
My original AHM FM C-Liner now has knuckles, the original hornhooks broke and the only couplers i could find that would fit that loco were knuckles.
Hornhooks do have some good points to them.
a few Pros
They are simple, one piece, no near microscopic parts.
They are reliable for the most part, they rarely uncouple for no apparent reason.
Cheap, even today Walthers for example will include them with their rolling stock as optional
couplers.
Will couple up with the next car even on a curved section.
A few Cons
Sometimes uncouple when reversing.
On some makes they can be a PITA to find proper replacements for these days.
They just do look like the "prototypical" couplers.
Edited by - jbsmith966 on February 13 2011 02:52:29 AM
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Posted - February 13 2011 : 2:44:44 PM
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| All kits that I build have knuckle couplers and do all of my Athearn locomotives. The other items that I have all have what ever they came with. I have a few conversion cars so I can run most anything together. The only rule I have is that all cabooses that I run have both a knuckle and a horn hook coupler on them. This avoids the issue of having to find a caboose to match the train.
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Posted - February 13 2011 : 9:37:24 PM
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quote: The only rule I have is that all cabooses that I run have both a knuckle and a horn hook coupler on them. This avoids the issue of having to find a caboose to match the train.
Originally posted by tkruger - February 13 2011 : 2:44:44 PM
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I do that too. It makes them more versatile. If you're using the horn-hook, then the back end looks realistic. If you need the knuckle, you've got it. Best of both worlds.
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x2f
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 Posted - February 19 2011 : 09:20:55 AM
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I recently finished converting the last of my north american rolling stock to horn hooks.
X2F
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 Posted - July 26 2011 : 10:24:28 AM
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Because of a tight budget, tight spaces and sharp curves, all of my Locos and rolling stock have talgo trucks and X2F couplers. Everyone knows they pull good and push bad, so i have designed my layout so that my terminal, yard, and sidings are at a slight incline. The rolling stock simply rolls back instead of having to be pushed in. There are different ways to get them to stay "put", from stiff brush "weeds" to track bumpers. They couple easily, but nearly impossible to uncouple unless you do it yourself and with a skewer or similar tool. Besides, real people have to manually uncouple real train cars dont they? I designed my layout within reach so that i am "workin on the railroad". I follow "ride" the train, throw the turnouts, and uncouple the cars. On my railroad, talgo trucks and X2F couplers are the prototype... huh...so is a Tyco GG1....lol
BillyD
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Posted - July 26 2011 : 11:49:43 AM
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If I get a Athear, MDC, or a Varney, I'll use a Kadee #5. My Tyco and what not, HORNHOOKS!!
" Heck with counting 'em rivets, TRAINS ARE FOR FUN! Not called the Mad Scientist for nothing either!"
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Posted - July 26 2011 : 12:46:08 PM
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* I do use horn hook style couplers as my primary type. The ones that still have knukle types are only 1% of what I have and cars I dont run often. Also they are most likley hard conversions. If I want to run them I just use a conversion car. I like them enough that I have converted some of my Tri-ang, Hornby and other European locomotives the horn hook.
frank
toptrain
" It's a Heck of a Day " !!!
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Posted - July 26 2011 : 3:20:20 PM
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| I do deconvert kadees to horn hooks I feel I do that they'll work with older stuff I own I want MOAR horn hooks again
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Posted - July 26 2011 : 6:21:53 PM
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I bought this set last week for 58.00.....for what I thought was a great deal just to get the "Spreckels" car and it also came with a Varney SW switcher...problem is the whole set including the switcher was converted to Kaydees !!!! I didn't know it until I received it....when it seems to good to be true..................
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Posted - July 31 2011 : 06:42:09 AM
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Sorry to hear of your bad luck, taycotrains. If it would make you feel better, you can donate the set to me!
To the topic, I install knuckle couplers as the need arises. For instance, most of my IHC passenger cars still have horn hooks but I converted my Congressional Ltd RPO so the PRR consist could be hauled by my MetalTrain F7's. That meant I also had to convert my silver GG1. It makes conversion a one-way and gradual process. For couplers that are seldom used, like on the front of some locos or for tail cars, I prefer the knuckle look.
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Posted - July 31 2011 : 07:13:13 AM
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I use 3 transitional cars with a knuckle on one end to hook up in situations where the other cars are noy compatible.
I think that Varney switcher is rare as the mold was changed so not originals many exist.
Alco Fan
Edited by - Alco Fan on July 31 2011 07:15:45 AM
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Posted - July 31 2011 : 09:18:25 AM
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| yo taycotrains Just do what I do Get some old horrn hooks & put them on the Kadee trains
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Posted - September 13 2012 : 8:51:12 PM
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old thread but current comment.
I have a lot of inclines and declines and with limited space i push the limit. No problem other than having to adjust speed up and down.
What i have run into is when i enter or leave an incline going into a level area some of my knuckle couplers rise above the adjoining car enough to become uncoupled. Had i the room i would have made a gradual transition into the grade to prevent this.
OTOH none of my horn hooks ever uncouple
fred in Mi
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Posted - September 13 2012 : 8:54:09 PM
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| About me wanting more horn hooks? Well I NOW have enuff EM-1 is sending me LOTS
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Posted - September 14 2012 : 02:19:26 AM
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I had converted about half of my stock prior to the theft to Kadees. Will have to start over as I rebuild my collection again. Going to be a LOT of work since I started converting them back in 1994. I agree - if people like the horn hooks, more power to them - ENJOY what you have because you have it! The best part of this hobby is enjoying it, especially with friends.
Starting my Tyco and other favorites collection over again after 37 years.
My still in progress list of inventory and wantlist: tyconut.com
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Posted - September 14 2012 : 05:29:06 AM
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While I consider myself hardly a rivet counter, I converted all my inventory to Kadee couplers for the sake of reliability and overall realistic effect. I understand the nostalgia for horn hooks as per our childhood memories, but I want to have the flexibility that Kadees bring, in terms of being able to adjust them or their relative position by adjusting the truck or bolster height, particularly as I frequently get more rolling stock at swap meets and they are already converted, for the most part. But, that's my preference.
Ron
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Posted - September 14 2012 : 11:21:06 AM
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| Any cars my kids run get Horn Hooks and mine get Knuckles. The reason is that they are rougher on the cars. By having the better stock with a different coupler they do not ask to use it. That said I do have a conversion car if they want their cars in my train.
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Posted - September 14 2012 : 11:44:39 AM
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I have a brand new Athearn train set I'm holding aside for some friends of mine once their kids are old enough. Modern EZ-track, a quality power pack, and Athearn quality and durability make this choice an absolute no-brainer.
However, before I give it to them, the units will be converted back to hornhooks. Hornooks are a generally durable one-piece design while knuckles - especially plastic McHenry's - have more parts and are too fragile to withstand typical kids. Shoot, I remember breaking plenty of horn-hooks in my day; all my girls' stuff is horn-hooked now and I've had to replace a few of those too.
I find the hingeless, solid-shank two-piece design of Accumates makes them fairly durable, but reverting to horn-hooks has the added bonus of ensuring whatever fun Tyco cars I include and their way, or inexpensive yard sale stuff they may find, should be generally compatible. Of course I'll add a supply of spare couplers and maybe an Accumated STC car as a conversion piece too.
As for the difference some thousandths of an inch can make: it doesn't take much, sometimes. Sure, if every coupler only deviates a set amount from a consistent baseline, you won't have much trouble. But a little high on this car, a little low on that one, a little more on a third, and random issue on a fourth, etc...? It all adds up to the frustrating "this car can only be coupled to that one, which can be coupled to any except those 4, which won't work with this particular engine unless it only goes X fast in spot Z...."
...There's a reason there's a standard, after all. Obviously some cars aren't worth the effort, but it's worth pursuing when possible.
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Posted - September 14 2012 : 4:21:52 PM
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Here you guys...
First time I've ever seen this...sorry about the pic..best I
can do right now....those little "cans" on the bottom of
the couplers are magnets! Look closely if you can at the caboose on the right
that coupler has a fine pc of wire protruding toward you from the side of the coupler
about.005 thick....the magnet from the track (KD?) attracts the wire,or other magnet... uncoupling them
wonder who thought this up? This might be someones' perfect combo!!
caboose 1
Edited by - caboose 1 on September 14 2012 4:29:59 PM
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Posted - September 14 2012 : 8:50:34 PM
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to get good pics use the Flower Icon on your camera
That way it focuses onto the foreground & not the background
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Posted - September 14 2012 : 10:36:21 PM
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It really doesnt matter to me, I love both! Most of my older engines when arrive use horn hooks but if I have to tear them down for repairs or rebuild I generally give the tender or pilot beam a knuckle coupler, i'm in short supply of them but most of my SCVR engines have both. My diesel collection (non-SCVR) is mostly horn hook, except for the F7s. And the other steamers in my collection (Non-SCVR) are knuckle. I use the caboose method shown above, knuckle and horn hook.
I buy, repair, and collect
http://scvr.weebly.com/
http://seyboldlocomotiveworks.weebly.com/
http://www.youtube.com/user/TheDeputation?feature=watch
Hyde.
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Posted - September 15 2012 : 09:27:56 AM
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OK Thanx busss
caboose 1
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Posted - September 17 2012 : 10:21:00 AM
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| Cab1, I think those couplers are from the original run of Lionel HO back in the 60's. I have some new in a Lionel HO jewel case that look just like that. Actually that caboose looks like it might be a Lionel version, which would make sense. Lionels did not come with these typically, but I surmise it was an available upgrade. As you say, it would sorta mesh the best of both worlds. I don't know how well they work though.
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Posted - September 17 2012 : 4:38:43 PM
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OK
Lionel...go figure...but they are on Rivvy cars..guess they swapped'em out
Thanx for the info
caboose 1
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Posted - September 17 2012 : 11:08:22 PM
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I have some duplicate cars, if three are the same, one is X2F, other is knuckle, third is both.
Hornhooks are okay in pulling, with the little shelf beneath the hook, they seldom disconnect.
Horn hooks are a risk when backing up more than four or five cars in the consist.
Knuckle couplers are safe in reverse, shoving moves... but, unless all are equally lined up and generally the same brand, they are not all trustable.
Plastic knuckles with the single finger-plastic spring are good for a little while. Why Athearn/MDC R-T-R's went to them, I don't know. Especially if you are fed up with them, removing the coupler cover from their passenger cars are a great pain!
Glory is restored replacing them with Kadees or Proto-X is nice! Both are metal.
Plastic knuckles with the metal coil spring are a better bet than those of plastic fingers.
There's another thread about couplers... the MP/Mehano Magic Mates are almost a Dogsend ... but you really need the RIX Uncoupler (looks like an "h" )when parting one from a knuckle coupler.
Separating Magic Mates from horn-hooks need a little fiddling.
Atlas made a "Dead-End" uncoupler for Horn-Hooks... provided the point-hanger didn't get broke off or filed/snipped...
Some info... my $0.02 US and CA...
John
I don't have a one track mind. It depends on the turn-out.
"I love your catenary!"
Is that a power-trip or just another pick-up line?
Edited by - zebrails on September 17 2012 11:13:55 PM
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Posted - September 18 2012 : 09:17:56 AM
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* I do agree with john about X2F couplers. There only problem is when backing up with Talgo style trucks. They tend on lighter cars to overturn the truck, causing a derailment. I like that they rarely come apart. My knuckle coupler equipped train cars when run then stopped uncouple by themselves. Probably a sign of something wrong with a individual coupler.
* I prefer to run trains with the horn hook, X2f coupler.
frank
toptrain
" It's a Heck of a Day " !!!
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Posted - September 18 2012 : 2:38:25 PM
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Don't forget Canadians... they prefer Canuckle couplers.
The Tyco Depot
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