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Posted - October 03 2009 : 11:17:35 PM
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It came out all right though the booger is noisy. The motor came from a CD ROM drive and seems to hold up to 9 volts just fine...


The original drive works fine. I didn't want to destroy it so I used a scrapped drive of a later vintage that is a drop in fit to the earlier, beefier drive. The motor was a press fit. You can see where I had to turn it slightly to clear the the post from the frame.
Edited by - shaygetz on October 03 2009 11:20:43 PM
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Posted - October 03 2009 : 11:47:28 PM
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Nice job, Shaygetz. Your motor looks to be a Mabuchi, which I found to be just a hair wider than the Mitsumi I used.
I removed the first motor I tried because, believe it or not, it started screeching just like the original pancake motor. I substituted a nearly identical model I had on hand, and while it ran fine, it was quite noisy. The second motor wasn't as well balanced, so it vibrated the tender enough to be annoying.
I couldn't get the first motor to squeal no matter how hard I ran it after it was removed, so tonight I switched back to it, and enlarged the shaft hole in the block. Since I mounted it with screws and left room to play with the gear mesh, I think the motor shaft was rubbing against the Zamac, and that's where the screech was coming from. So far, so good, and it runs much quieter overall.
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Posted - October 04 2009 : 01:52:41 AM
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Nice work, Nelson. I got the squealing too but found it disappeared when I moved the axle gear a hair further out on the shaft. The buzzing I have now is in the drive gears that came with the unit so that's probably there to stay. If you notice, I traded out a set of outboard wheels for inboard ones, swapping the regular plastic wheels for the geared drivers. This doubles the power pickup and gets rid of two traction tired wheels to boot. Can't take credit for the fix, got it from Ray...

Edited by - shaygetz on October 04 2009 01:54:29 AM
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Posted - October 04 2009 : 02:12:39 AM
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I did the same with mine.

Replacing the plastic wheels on the pickup side of the driven axles with metal ones is one of the first things I do with these engines. Two-wheel pickup on the tender is nothing but trouble. I also put a metal wheel on the pickup side of the lead truck. The extra pickup allows it to do a tie-by-tie crawl without stalling. 
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Posted - October 04 2009 : 6:18:30 PM
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Have you two ever considered travelling to North American Train shows doing repair clinics? There is definitely a market for upgrading TYCO equipment...
I would pay to see you guys!
Mike
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Posted - October 04 2009 : 6:58:19 PM
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quote:Have you two ever considered travelling to North American Train shows doing repair clinics? There is definitely a market for upgrading TYCO equipment...
I would pay to see you guys!
Mike
Originally posted by Mike-October 04 2009: 6:18:30 PM
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Only if Ray joins us...
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Posted - October 04 2009 : 7:04:32 PM
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quote:quote:Have you two ever considered travelling to North American Train shows doing repair clinics? There is definitely a market for upgrading TYCO equipment...
I would pay to see you guys!
Mike
Originally posted by Mike-October 04 2009: 6:18:30 PM
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Only if Ray joins us... 
Originally posted by NickelPlate759-October 04 2009: 6:58:19 PM
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AND...only if somebody shows me where the red wire goes from the engine to the tender...sigh...
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Posted - October 04 2009 : 7:41:37 PM
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The red wire is the pickup from the loco, so it goes to the motor brush that isn't wired to the tender frame. It's the same as the white striped wire in my photo.
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Edited by - NickelPlate759 on October 04 2009 7:42:33 PM
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Posted - October 04 2009 : 8:08:03 PM
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quote:The red wire is the pickup from the loco, so it goes to the motor brush that isn't wired to the tender frame. It's the same as the white striped wire in my photo.
Originally posted by NickelPlate759-October 04 2009: 7:41:37 PM
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Nutz...I shoulda said "from the tender to the loco"...sigh...the Raven lost so I'm in mourning.
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Posted - October 05 2009 : 11:06:15 PM
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OK, the wiring was right...the circuit just wasn't complete. Anyway, after thoroughly trashing two of the small pinion gears that go on the motor shaft, I came up with a dandy fix. Just take the larger bull gear, drill it to fit the shaft...c-a-r-e-f-u-l-l-y...trim the teeth off and round it out with a file, then mount it on the shaft with the small geared bushing facing towards the motor. Works like a champ and kinda gives it a flywheel look similar to an old John Deere Model D...
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Posted - October 05 2009 : 11:56:51 PM
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Nice trick for the pinion gear replacement. It's good to see the motor replacement working out for others.
Ray
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Posted - October 06 2009 : 12:01:39 AM
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NICE save there, SG!! 
I noticed that the pinion part of the combination bull gear looked to be close in size to the motor pinion, but didn't think to check. This will make things a lot easier (although I'm sure there isn't much plastic left holding the teeth together once it's drilled for a 2mm shaft). It should also do a better job of keeping the bull gear in line.
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Posted - October 06 2009 : 12:17:39 AM
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Thanks guys...
quote:NICE save there, SG!! 
...(although I'm sure there isn't much plastic left holding the teeth together once it's drilled for a 2mm shaft). It should also do a better job of keeping the bull gear in line.
Originally posted by NickelPlate759-October 06 2009: 12:01:39 AM
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I thought so too but it actually is pretty solid when you take into account that the smaller gear is a cast on to the larger. They mesh perfectly.
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Posted - October 06 2009 : 12:20:49 AM
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quote:
I thought so too but it actually is pretty solid when you take into account that the smaller gear is a cast on to the larger. They mesh perfectly.
Originally posted by shaygetz-October 06 2009: 12:17:39 AM
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Is it any quieter than the metal pinion?
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Posted - October 06 2009 : 2:24:00 PM
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quote:
Is it any quieter than the metal pinion?
Originally posted by NickelPlate759-October 06 2009: 12:20:49 AM
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A bit but not much, the Tyco gearing is just a bit sloppy.
I put the first drive in my "Royal Blue" that a previous owner had painted...

...the second with the Model "D" flywheel is going into another one.
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Posted - October 06 2009 : 10:19:28 PM
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Here's a little video...I carefully trued up the "flywheel" with a file as it spun...
http://s126.photobucket.com/albums/p96/1shaygetz/videos/?action=view¤t=PA060189.flv
The second drive had a bit of a bind caused by the center geared driver hitting the motor case. I turned the offending drive wheel down on a Dremel with a file like so...
/tyco/forum/uploaded/shaygetz/tycoremotor6.jpg
Edited by - shaygetz on October 07 2009 12:15:15 AM
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Posted - October 10 2009 : 10:55:49 PM
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My two latest, an 0-4-0 booster and an N scale GP40 from Model Power...


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Posted - October 11 2009 : 12:16:07 AM
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Stop Him! No pancake motor is safe from Shaygetz! 

Nice job, especially on that N scale diesel. What was the source of that motor?
The Lima 0-4-0 looks like it had a pretty substantial armature to begin with, much better than the PT's. Any flywheel effect with the new can?
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Posted - October 11 2009 : 01:25:08 AM
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quote:Stop Him! No pancake motor is safe from Shaygetz! /tyco/forum/uploaded/NickelPlate759/scared.gif
/tyco/forum/uploaded/NickelPlate759/biggrin.gif
Nice job, especially on that N scale diesel. What was the source of that motor?
The Lima 0-4-0 looks like it had a pretty substantial armature to begin with, much better than the PT's. Any flywheel effect with the new can?
Originally posted by NickelPlate759-October 11 2009: 12:16:07 AM
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...Pancakes must DIE!!!!
The old motor may look impressive but it ran just as bad as any PT TYCO put out. There is a small bit of flywheel effect but not much, there are simply too many gears in the drive train to be effective---but---it runs like a watch none-the-less.
The motor in the N scale unit was the tray drive motor in one of the scrapped CD ROMs. It was pretty much a drop in fit and did little to quiet that drive down, Model Power is the TYCO of N...
Edited by - shaygetz on October 11 2009 01:26:16 AM
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Posted - October 11 2009 : 04:08:10 AM
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Careful! If you're bitten by one of these...

you'll turn into one of these...

and then you'll just feel waffle.
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Edited by - NickelPlate759 on October 11 2009 04:13:22 AM
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Posted - October 11 2009 : 11:49:59 AM
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Those pancake motors are turning up everywhere. Nice job Shaygetz. Here's a Bachmann 2-8-0 remotor.
Ray
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Posted - October 11 2009 : 12:36:58 PM
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Cool, Ray. I assume you have a worm driving the original axle gear. What did you use as a shaft extension?
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Posted - October 11 2009 : 1:49:32 PM
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quote: you'll turn into one of these...

and then you'll just feel waffle.
Originally posted by NickelPlate759-October 11 2009: 04:08:10 AM
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Yikes...
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Posted - October 11 2009 : 2:04:33 PM
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quote:Cool, Ray. I assume you have a worm driving the original axle gear. What did you use as a shaft extension?
Originally posted by NickelPlate759-October 11 2009: 12:36:58 PM
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The worm is directly on the motor shaft and drives one of the original reduction gears. I should have gotten a few photos of it when I built it.
Ray
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