|
|
 Posted - December 03 2007 : 3:42:50 PM
|
|
Does anyone own or have experience with Mantua's 2-6-6-2 articulateds? I'm thinking about getting one--they have can motors and a flywheel. Do they run smoothly? I'm particularly concerned about the front gearbox, which is turned by a flexible tube from the rear gearbox. I don't know how that acts when the loco is on a curve, and that shaft has to bend while turning. Thanks, Chris.
|
Country:  USA ~
Posts: 874 ~
Member Since: October 15 2007 ~
Last Visit: June 09 2019
|
Alert Moderator
|
|
|
|
Posted - November 15 2008 : 4:48:30 PM
|
Chris : I have a few of them. The only problum I've had was a bad motor on a kit that I was building. The only motor that fit ( kind of ) was a little larger amd was like the original a open frame type. The upper square edges didn't fit inside the body. I hade to make a belpare fire box for that engine. With tracking I had no problums. With the 2-6-6-2t's I have a little anoyance. the coal bunker keeps falling off. It' is still factory painted ao I don't want to glue it.
frank
toptrain
" It's a Heck of a Day " !!!
Edited by - toptrain on November 15 2008 4:48:57 PM
|
|
Country: USA ~
Posts: 7538 ~
Member Since: August 07 2008 ~
Last Visit: December 06 2025
|
Alert Moderator
|
|
|
|
Posted - November 15 2008 : 6:18:31 PM
|
| Frank, I ended up getting the new Mantua (Model Power) 2-6-6-2 after I posted that message. It's SP and has a can motor, flywheel, and directional lighting. Only slight issue (as I guessed) is that the drive tube to the front drivers is not a true u-joint, so you can hear quite a bit of vibration coming from the front around curves. Someone else here recommended a replacement u-joint kit.
|
|
Country: USA ~
Posts: 874 ~
Member Since: October 15 2007 ~
Last Visit: June 09 2019
|
Alert Moderator
|
|
|
|
Posted - November 15 2008 : 6:31:08 PM
|
hi chris,frank check your own link ken
http://www.tycoforums.com/tyco/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=6072
http://www.ares-server.com/Ares/Ares.asp?MerchantID=RET01229&Action=Catalog&Type=Product&ID=83290
Edited by - catfordken on November 15 2008 7:43:16 PM
|
Country:  United Kingdom ~
Posts: 8294 ~
Member Since: September 28 2006 ~
Last Visit: October 20 2021
|
Alert Moderator
|
|
|
|
Posted - November 15 2008 : 7:49:05 PM
|
Chris ; Be happy with the model power classis. You have a can motor. All mine were purchased from 1983 to 1990. All had open frame MG81 motors. Not a good thing. Because out of the six I have one was bad. When you buy a new loco it's motor should turn. If it works porley at least it turns. Someone somewhere along the manufactureing process should have tested it. It was a 2-6-6-2 with tender, Articulated logger, 326 type. Every one I bught that was factory built worked the only kit a bought didn't.
frank toptrain
toptrain
" It's a Heck of a Day " !!!
|
|
Country: USA ~
Posts: 7538 ~
Member Since: August 07 2008 ~
Last Visit: December 06 2025
|
Alert Moderator
|
|
|
|
Posted - November 15 2008 : 8:08:50 PM
|
| Yes, Ken, that's the u-joint kit I need. I should stop procrastinating, and get it done. The 2-6-6-2 hasn't seen much action lately, with all those British steamers parading around! Chris
|
|
Country: USA ~
Posts: 874 ~
Member Since: October 15 2007 ~
Last Visit: June 09 2019
|
Alert Moderator
|
|
|
|
Posted - November 15 2008 : 9:17:25 PM
|
Those U-joints look like they might fit my grandpa's Tyco.
No no, not a train, his all wheel drive Tyco R/C car. 
That thing is sweet!
    
- Matt -
|
Country:  Canada ~
Posts: 1021 ~
Member Since: August 24 2008 ~
Last Visit: January 05 2020
|
Alert Moderator
|
|
|
|
Posted - November 16 2008 : 2:20:02 PM
|
What Mantua has done with the 2-6-6-2 drive is great. With the Pacific and mikado mainley they changed paint jobs. With the 2-6-6-2 they took their idea and expanded on it, then expanded on it again., and again ,and again. They kept playing with the same drive train, basic boiler top and boiler bottom. They add, moved, changed details pilots, domes, stacks, cabs, tanks, tenders and paint. Lots of slide of hand and wahlla, many different locomotives. Some even look protytipical. It does seam that Model Power is continueing this. Just how many can you buy? At six I stoped awile ago.
frank
toptrain
" It's a Heck of a Day " !!!
|
|
Country: USA ~
Posts: 7538 ~
Member Since: August 07 2008 ~
Last Visit: December 06 2025
|
Alert Moderator
|
|
|
|
Posted - November 17 2008 : 3:38:29 PM
|
I used to have several of them, then got out of HO for awhile and getting back into it again with one of the newest issue ones. First thing I do is replace the rubber tubing, both of them, with U joints from Northwest Shortline. I do the motor to gear box one as well, its seldom an exact line up between the two, and that puts more stress on bearings and inhibits nice slow running. My main engine back then was a Booth Kelley mallet that I repowered with a GSB "Tan Can" flat sided motor and all NWSL drive shafts. Once weathered and the valve gear blackened to look more prototypical, it ran better than most brass and with the added details and paint work, it got mistaken for a brass import many times. I am now on a mission to find all the Weyerhaeuser factory painted ones that do not have tenders. I just bought the newest one from MP/Mantua Classis. I want to find the early to mid 90's model with the rounded saddle tank next, or whatever shows up on ebay. Any open frame motored ones will get a nice can motor stuck in them. All the older ones get brass headlight castings and other detail upgrades to remove the toy like quality that a few had. Older Mantua headlights were quite toy like. From my experience with them, they are a much better choice over a brass one, even right out of the box they usualy ran better and quieter. With some tweeking and tuning, they can exceede a brass model on all aspects other than collectablity. Have fun with em. Mike
Still NT's, I have Aspergers.
|
|
Country: USA ~
Posts: 308 ~
Member Since: November 17 2008 ~
Last Visit: June 05 2023
|
Alert Moderator
|
|
|
|
Posted - November 20 2008 : 5:15:05 PM
|
Ok, here is my solution to the rubber tube issue. NWSL makes some nice universal coupler sets. I got the idea from an article in the Oct 1991 issue of Model Railroader. The engine is much smoother thru cuves with out the binding and bucking from the rubber tube . Mike
Still NT's, I have Aspergers.
|
|
Country: USA ~
Posts: 308 ~
Member Since: November 17 2008 ~
Last Visit: June 05 2023
|
Alert Moderator
|
|
|
|
Posted - February 16 2009 : 01:14:36 AM
|
So I just become the proud owner of a Western Maryland mallet with tender. They current layout it lives on it is a bit tight so I have a few upgrade questions.
First since the links posted above about the drive shafts don't seem to work anymore, is this the same thing?
http://www.micromark.com/UNIVERSAL-JOINT-FOR-2mm-SHAFTS,8579.html
Anything special about installing these I should know about? I've got a pretty good idea of what I need and what needs to be done, but I just want to double check.
Secondly, I noticed the loco will not run without the tender. I also notice looking under the tender that there is 1 electrical pickup per axle on each truck. Has anyone bothered to add a second pickup to each truck? The axles look like they are insulated left to right so I don't think it would be a issue. And my reason for asking is some of the current trackwork the engine runs over is rough in spots, and I noticed is seems to loose power here and there because of it. Just wondering if adding the extra pickups on the tender would improve this, since it seems pretty straight forward to do. Thanks for the help!
|
|
Country: USA ~
Posts: 531 ~
Member Since: January 29 2009 ~
Last Visit: July 10 2020
|
Alert Moderator
|
|
|
|
Posted - February 16 2009 : 07:40:54 AM
|
| hi chrisc,i installed all six in a pacific,runs much better,i used brass with no plastic but one side was insulated,ken
|
|
Country: United Kingdom ~
Posts: 8294 ~
Member Since: September 28 2006 ~
Last Visit: October 20 2021
|
Alert Moderator
|
|
|
|
Posted - February 16 2009 : 10:29:09 AM
|
Here's a thread showing a rebuild of a Mantua 2-6-6-2.
I did some improvements of the electrical pickups on it and replaced the open frame motor.
http://www.2guyzandsumtrains.com/Forums/viewtopic/t=4859.html
Ray
|
|
Country: USA ~
Posts: 1285 ~
Member Since: December 14 2005 ~
Last Visit: May 16 2019
|
Alert Moderator
|
|
|
|
Posted - February 16 2009 : 3:39:59 PM
|
Great re-work as usual, Ray.  That engine sure looks better in basic black than the original green & silver. If any were really painted like that, I'm sure they didn't stay looking like that for long in service.
I recognize the can motor. It looks just like the loading motor I pulled out of an old Sony VCR. Very good low speed. Those original open frames run very well, but they do draw more current than a can, so I replaced the one in my Mantua Atlantic with an FK-130.
The Tyco Depot
Edited by - NickelPlate759 on February 16 2009 3:40:44 PM
|
|
Country: USA ~
Posts: 3927 ~
Member Since: June 20 2007 ~
Last Visit: November 19 2015
|
Alert Moderator
|
|
|
|
Posted - February 17 2009 : 03:49:38 AM
|
Thanks for the replies. I actually think I might contact Mantua/model power about getting another set of factory pickups for the tender. They would basically mount right on, I'd just have to face them towards the other axle and wire them in. If that doesn't work out then I'm sure making my own pickups won't be a issue.
Can anyone answer off the top of their head what the driveshaft size is for the gearboxes? I just want to make sure before I order the axle kit. I think its 2mm, but I don't have my loco here to check right now.
BTW Ray your rebuilds amaze me, I pray someday I come across a old steam loco someone junked so I can make something outta it!
Edited by - ChrisC on February 17 2009 03:50:43 AM
|
|
Country: USA ~
Posts: 531 ~
Member Since: January 29 2009 ~
Last Visit: July 10 2020
|
Alert Moderator
|
|
|
|
Posted - February 23 2009 : 12:21:12 AM
|
Well tonight was good. Ever since I picked up my logger I noticed things weren't quiet right with it. It seemed like it always spun on the rails, sounded like someone rubbing two nickels together really fast. My life-like F7 would pull loads that would make the logger almost stop dead on the tracks. The logger has a factory can motor with a flywheel it should be able to pull lots of stuff easily. Also seemed like I had electrical contact issues every so often. Something didn't add up. Tonight while packing the engine up to take home I noticed how strong the springs were pushing the front & rear pilot trucks down. I set the engine back down on the rails and lightly lifted up the cab using my finger. With barely any effort the rear pilots helped me lift the rear drive wheels off the ground. So as a test I pulled the springs pushing the front & rear trucks down and set the engine back on the rails with a fairly heavy load behind it.
Engine had no trouble at all pulling the load. It sounded alot quieter since the wheels were no longer spinning. Also electrical contact was much better since the drive wheels were staying closer to the rails. We were amazed it was like a new engine in front of us. In fact we had probably the 2nd heaviest train load on the layout behind it (custom made real log cars haha) and it was moving right along. In fact I was having issues with the rear pilot derailing over a rough section of track, now it stays on. However without the springs pushing them down you'll notice the pilot wheels don't touch the ground all the time. So my mission now is to just find some lighter springs for the trucks so at least there is tension on them. Again I wanted to share, mine is new so maybe older ones don't have this problem. But I don't recall it being mentioned before. Driveshaft kit should be here this week, along with a few other small upgrades it should really be a good engine (finally haha). Here is a pic of it doing its thing, check out how the front is leaning as it follows the track.
|
|
Country: USA ~
Posts: 531 ~
Member Since: January 29 2009 ~
Last Visit: July 10 2020
|
Alert Moderator
|
|
|
|
Posted - February 23 2009 : 06:37:41 AM
|
| hi ChrisC,have you tried removing a little of the spring,ken
|
|
Country: United Kingdom ~
Posts: 8294 ~
Member Since: September 28 2006 ~
Last Visit: October 20 2021
|
Alert Moderator
|
|
|
|
Posted - February 23 2009 : 1:00:23 PM
|
Ken - I might trim the spring, but for now I'm going to dig around and see if I have anything else that works. I'd like to keep the factory parts around just in case anything happens. If I can't find any decent replacement springs, then I'll just cut the factory ones and put them back in there.
Aside from the driveshaft upgrade it might get a little more weight too. Nothing major since there is barely any room on the body for it. But the logger only feels about as heavy as my athern RS-3, and the logger is much larger. I think with a few small tweaks it could easily pull with the best of them.
|
|
Country: USA ~
Posts: 531 ~
Member Since: January 29 2009 ~
Last Visit: July 10 2020
|
Alert Moderator
|
|
|
|
Posted - February 24 2009 : 11:59:37 AM
|
Theres a way to fit the old metal mantua Mikado boiler to the Logger. that would add plenty of weight!
-Gareth
|
|
Country: Canada ~
Posts: 4200 ~
Member Since: January 08 2006 ~
Last Visit: November 09 2021
|
Alert Moderator
|
|
|
|
Posted - July 15 2009 : 4:17:17 PM
|
quote:Theres a way to fit the old metal mantua Mikado boiler to the Logger. that would add plenty of weight!
-Gareth
Originally posted by romcat-February 24 2009: 11:59:37 AM
|
Sept. - Oct. '85 RMC, according to a Google search...that's something I'd like to see, too! If anybody has the issue, could a picture be posted?
Anybody tried it?
|
|
Country: USA ~
Posts: 432 ~
Member Since: March 04 2008 ~
Last Visit: December 28 2018
|
Alert Moderator
|
|
|
|
Posted - September 24 2009 : 4:04:43 PM
|
quote:| Something didn't add up. Tonight while packing the engine up to take home I noticed how strong the springs were pushing the front & rear pilot trucks down. |
I have a problem with mine where the front pilot truck seems to derail easily going through 'rough' turnouts that other locos cope with. I thought it was because the downward pressure from the spring was inadequate.
So after reading your situation, scratching my head.
Its a can motor vsn, purchased 3 years back.
Tanked
|
|
Country: USA ~
Posts: 243 ~
Member Since: September 08 2008 ~
Last Visit: January 04 2012
|
Alert Moderator
|
|
|
|
Posted - September 24 2009 : 5:34:56 PM
|
Hi Tanked. You may want to check the gauge of the wheels on the truck. Sometimes the wheels are set too close or too far apart, as they go around a curve they will fall off. Use a NMRA wheel set gauge to make sure the distance between the wheels are correct and centered on the axle. This holds true for all wheel sets, on tenders, freight and Passenger Cars. Hope this helps. Carl
Numquam Immoderatio Satis Est
(Too Much Is Never Enough )
|
|
Country: USA ~
Posts: 632 ~
Member Since: January 23 2006 ~
Last Visit: June 21 2020
|
Alert Moderator
|
|
Home
Forums
Events Calendar
Forum Admins & Mods
Register
