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TC911
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 Posted - December 19 2022 :  4:41:00 PM Link directly to this topic  Show Profile  Add TC911 to Buddylist
I recently decided to resurrect my trains, that have been boxed up since 1972. Pulled everything out of the attic, and set up a test oval.

My Rivarossi V&T RR steam engine runs like it’s brand new. Cars are a little beat up, but not too bad.

However, my Tyco gear isn’t so good. I have two powered C&O F9’s along with a B unit. Neither of the powered units will do anything at all. Totally dead.

Before I start tearing into them, does anyone have a good direction to point me? I’m wondering if they’re worth tearing apart. They’re all original. Is it worth trying to get the motors working, or is motor replacement a better option?

I appreciate any and all insight…

Edited by - TC911 on December 19 2022 6:34:49 PM
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jward
Hudson

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 Posted - December 19 2022 :  6:51:36 PM Link directly to this reply  Show Profile  Add jward to Buddylist
I can't really offer any advice other than they probably need a good cleaning and lube.The MU2 drive probably used under these is way out of my area of expertise. But I'd love to see photos of them. I recently passed up a set of C&Os at a train show and I'm regretting it. Tyco's version of the C&O paint scheme looks far better than what C&O actually had, in my opinion.
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TC911
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 Posted - December 19 2022 :  7:58:01 PM Link directly to this reply  Show Profile  Add TC911 to Buddylist
https://flic.kr/p/2o6NFbK" target="_blank"> https://flic.kr/p/2o6NFbK
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Brian4321
Hudson

Gilbert HO

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 Posted - December 19 2022 :  10:21:16 PM Link directly to this reply  Show Profile  Add Brian4321 to Buddylist
TC911,

A good cleaning usually works. I've had good luck using a thin toothpick to clear the crud off the gears, then shoot a little bit of Isopropyl alcohol to clean out more crud.

Then again, a complete breakdown may do the trick. Here is a vid to watch: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ti-DeNZD8ek

When this comes up, you'll see other useful vids on the right side of the screen.
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offtrackthoroughbred
Little Six

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 Posted - December 20 2022 :  3:13:40 PM Link directly to this reply  Show Profile  Add offtrackthoroughbred to Buddylist
quote:
Is it worth trying to get the motors working...


Depends on how you feel about it.
Some folks find tinkering, fixing, and adjusting rolling stock to be an enjoyable part of the hobby; other folks not so much.

Those MU2 units are hard to kill; they will most likely run after cleaning.
Once you get them running you will find out if you need new traction tires.
Screws rather than rivets give you much more freedom to clean and lubricate.
Its much easier to replace traction tires when you can hold only a single axle rather than the whole MU2 unit.

Edited by - offtrackthoroughbred on December 20 2022 3:16:50 PM
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microbusss
Big Boy





tiger

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 Posted - December 20 2022 :  5:58:21 PM Link directly to this reply  Show Profile  Add microbusss to Buddylist
1972? hehe I was born that year on Dec 1
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TC911
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 Posted - December 20 2022 :  6:57:35 PM Link directly to this reply  Show Profile  Add TC911 to Buddylist
I presume I need to pull the motor trucks, and get the rivets out to be able to do an adequate cleaning? I can’t imagine there is any kind of lubricant still in the gears…

quote:
quote:
Is it worth trying to get the motors working...


Depends on how you feel about it.
Some folks find tinkering, fixing, and adjusting rolling stock to be an enjoyable part of the hobby; other folks not so much.

Those MU2 units are hard to kill; they will most likely run after cleaning.
Once you get them running you will find out if you need new traction tires.
Screws rather than rivets give you much more freedom to clean and lubricate.
Its much easier to replace traction tires when you can hold only a single axle rather than the whole MU2 unit.


Originally posted by offtrackthoroughbred - December 20 2022 :  3:13:40 PM

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RP model railroads
Big Boy



DOUBLE NICKEL55

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 Posted - December 21 2022 :  9:40:23 PM Link directly to this reply  Show Profile  Add RP model railroads to Buddylist
You shouldn't need to drill out the rivets on the motor truck to clean the gears, as Tyco diesels with MU-2 motors are indestructible, and can run well with only a little oil on the gears and clean brass contact wheels.

How dirty/corroded are the brass contact (or pickup) wheels on both the motor and front (dummy) trucks? If the brass contact wheels are dirty, the locomotive will not be picking up power well from the rails, hence why they won't run.

Hope this helps. I have many Tyco MU-2 diesels in my collection and have never once drilled the rivets out on the motor trucks. Just some lubrication and clean contact wheels will do the trick to get those old F9s running well again.

"Let your light so shine before men, that they may see your good works, and glorify your Father which is in Heaven." - Matthew 5:16

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TC911
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 Posted - December 22 2022 :  11:04:49 AM Link directly to this reply  Show Profile  Add TC911 to Buddylist
I’ve cleaned the brass wheels. Those were easy to buff up to a decent shine. I’ve got to get some correct oil and hit the gears. I’m away from home till next week, so it’ll have to wait till then.

quote:
You shouldn't need to drill out the rivets on the motor truck to clean the gears, as Tyco diesels with MU-2 motors are indestructible, and can run well with only a little oil on the gears and clean brass contact wheels.

How dirty/corroded are the brass contact (or pickup) wheels on both the motor and front (dummy) trucks? If the brass contact wheels are dirty, the locomotive will not be picking up power well from the rails, hence why they won't run.

Hope this helps. I have many Tyco MU-2 diesels in my collection and have never once drilled the rivets out on the motor trucks. Just some lubrication and clean contact wheels will do the trick to get those old F9s running well again.

Originally posted by RP model railroads - December 21 2022 :  9:40:23 PM

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Chops124
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 Posted - December 23 2022 :  12:40:13 AM Link directly to this reply  Show Profile  Add Chops124 to Buddylist
From personal experience, RP's advice is spot on. Enjoy!
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RP model railroads
Big Boy



DOUBLE NICKEL55

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 Posted - December 23 2022 :  9:42:05 PM Link directly to this reply  Show Profile  Add RP model railroads to Buddylist
Great! Looking forward to an update once you put some oil on the gears. Those F9's should run quite well by then.


"Let your light so shine before men, that they may see your good works, and glorify your Father which is in Heaven." - Matthew 5:16

Youtube Channel: www.youtube.com/rpmodelrailroads

Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/rp_model_railroads/
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TC911
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 Posted - January 03 2023 :  11:59:32 AM Link directly to this reply  Show Profile  Add TC911 to Buddylist
I’ve been able to get one of them running. It screams. The second unit is being obstinate. With the truck out of the body, I can get it to go by prodding the armature with a toothpick (holding it barely on the track so it picks up power). Reassembled, and she just sits there. Still waiting on my oil to arrive this week…

quote:
Great! Looking forward to an update once you put some oil on the gears. Those F9's should run quite well by then.



Originally posted by RP model railroads - December 23 2022 :  9:42:05 PM


Edited by - TC911 on January 03 2023 12:00:12 PM
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RP model railroads
Big Boy



DOUBLE NICKEL55

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 Posted - January 03 2023 :  1:23:24 PM Link directly to this reply  Show Profile  Add RP model railroads to Buddylist
Yeah, screaming is normal for an old Tyco diesel with a MU-2 motor - some oil on the gears should do the trick.

As far as why the other locomotive is not running well, there's a good chance it's going to take a little while for it to get back to running properly, having been stored for such a long time. When you reassembled the locomotive, did you accidentally line up the brass contact wheels on the same side? If so, that could very well be the reason why it didn't run after reassembly - I've done that before.

"Let your light so shine before men, that they may see your good works, and glorify your Father which is in Heaven." - Matthew 5:16

Youtube Channel: www.youtube.com/rpmodelrailroads

Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/rp_model_railroads/
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TC911
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 Posted - January 03 2023 :  10:40:53 PM Link directly to this reply  Show Profile  Add TC911 to Buddylist
Poor choice of a word on my part. This loco is flying. Quiet, and highballing around my test oval. Insane that it has sat boxed up for 50 years, and is now acting like a two year old.

Got my oil today, and still can’t get #2 to run. As mentioned before, with the shell off, and both trucks on the track (with brass wheels on opposite sides) I can only get the motor running by prodding the armature with a toothpick, while holding the parts in place, spinning the brass drive wheels. Tried letting it run for a couple of minutes, ensuring the oil is fully spread around. Doesn’t matter what I do, when I reassemble everything it won’t run..


quote:
Yeah, screaming is normal for an old Tyco diesel with a MU-2 motor - some oil on the gears should do the trick.

As far as why the other locomotive is not running well, there's a good chance it's going to take a little while for it to get back to running properly, having been stored for such a long time. When you reassembled the locomotive, did you accidentally line up the brass contact wheels on the same side? If so, that could very well be the reason why it didn't run after reassembly - I've done that before.

Originally posted by RP model railroads - January 03 2023 :  1:23:24 PM

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RP model railroads
Big Boy



DOUBLE NICKEL55

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 Posted - January 04 2023 :  9:19:50 PM Link directly to this reply  Show Profile  Add RP model railroads to Buddylist
Great to hear regarding the 1 F9!

Now, the other one...I'm also not sure what could be causing the problem. The fact it doesn't run when reassembled, is puzzling.

Here's 2 possible reasons why:

Are there any loose wires? Particularly those soldered to the top of the motor truck?
Any exposed wires where there shouldn't be?

It's possible a wire is broken on the inside, hence why sometimes the locomotive runs and then it just doesn't.

"Let your light so shine before men, that they may see your good works, and glorify your Father which is in Heaven." - Matthew 5:16

Youtube Channel: www.youtube.com/rpmodelrailroads

Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/rp_model_railroads/
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TC911
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 Posted - January 06 2023 :  6:13:07 PM Link directly to this reply  Show Profile  Add TC911 to Buddylist
I was very careful in reassembling the loco. The headlight illuminates solidly. I haven’t been able to prod the armature when it is all put back together…

The brushes look good, and the soldered wires are solid, as far as I can tell.

I’m going to try some more, but since I’ve got one working, this one may turn into a parts piece.

quote:
Great to hear regarding the 1 F9!

Now, the other one...I'm also not sure what could be causing the problem. The fact it doesn't run when reassembled, is puzzling.

Here's 2 possible reasons why:

Are there any loose wires? Particularly those soldered to the top of the motor truck?
Any exposed wires where there shouldn't be?

It's possible a wire is broken on the inside, hence why sometimes the locomotive runs and then it just doesn't.

Originally posted by RP model railroads - January 04 2023 :  9:19:50 PM

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scsshaggy
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scsshaggy

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 Posted - January 06 2023 :  7:16:56 PM Link directly to this reply  Show Profile  Add scsshaggy to Buddylist
quote:
The headlight illuminates solidly. I haven’t been able to prod the armature when it is all put back together…
The brushes look good, and the soldered wires are solid, as far as I can tell.
Originally posted by TC911 - January 06 2023 :  6:13:07 PM



Have you looked where the windings from the armature attach to the commutator?
I'm thinking that if there was a dead spot in the motor, it would probably stop there and then need a nudge to start again.

Carpe Manana!
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TC911
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 Posted - January 06 2023 :  7:54:56 PM Link directly to this reply  Show Profile  Add TC911 to Buddylist
Sounds as likely as anything I can come up with. However, I’m at a loss how to check, as the way the armature is buried in the truck, I can’t see clearly.

quote:
quote:
The headlight illuminates solidly. I haven’t been able to prod the armature when it is all put back together…
The brushes look good, and the soldered wires are solid, as far as I can tell.
Originally posted by TC911 - January 06 2023 :  6:13:07 PM



Have you looked where the windings from the armature attach to the commutator?
I'm thinking that if there was a dead spot in the motor, it would probably stop there and then need a nudge to start again.

Originally posted by scsshaggy - January 06 2023 :  7:16:56 PM

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offtrackthoroughbred
Little Six

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 Posted - January 07 2023 :  2:38:52 PM Link directly to this reply  Show Profile  Add offtrackthoroughbred to Buddylist
Could be fouled armature; carbon buildup between armature contact plates can cause problems.

Could be a weak magnet; does it solidly grab a steel screwdriver?

Could be an armature winding has burnt out; then you will have a parts engine.

I have a "parts" MU2. Missing plastic wheels, a side frame, and coupler is broken. It does run fairly well. PM me if you want it; you can have for price of postage.


Good health!
OTTB
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TC911
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 Posted - January 09 2023 :  8:14:21 PM Link directly to this reply  Show Profile  Add TC911 to Buddylist
I sent you a PM…
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Chops124
Big Boy





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 Posted - January 10 2023 :  7:11:18 PM Link directly to this reply  Show Profile  Add Chops124 to Buddylist
MU2, the Queen of Tyco.
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Rockville
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 Posted - February 03 2023 :  8:56:40 PM Link directly to this reply  Show Profile  Add Rockville to Buddylist
quote:
I recently decided to resurrect my trains, that have been boxed up since 1972. Pulled everything out of the attic, and set up a test oval.

My Rivarossi V&T RR steam engine runs like it’s brand new. Cars are a little beat up, but not too bad.

However, my Tyco gear isn’t so good. I have two powered C&O F9’s along with a B unit. Neither of the powered units will do anything at all. Totally dead.

Before I start tearing into them, does anyone have a good direction to point me? I’m wondering if they’re worth tearing apart. They’re all original. Is it worth trying to get the motors working, or is motor replacement a better option?

I appreciate any and all insight…

Originally posted by TC911 - December 19 2022 :  4:41:00 PM

Here's a tutorial that I've used for all of my mu-2.
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