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No telling why it was shimmed. One wire runs from the motor to the tender off the insulated side of the motor or the pick up shoe on the engine. Originally posted by Redneck Justin - January 12 2020 :  12:43:38 PM

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That piece of "foam" between the magnetic and the motor is a piece of felt that was used to hold oil next to the rear armature bearing and shaft. Be careful if you try to remove it. Originally posted by oldtimer52 - January 12 2020 :  5:23:33 PM

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It could be that the plastic shim and the foam around the screw were an attempt to isolate the motor for DCC. Given that the gears don't line up, I'd say it was a failed attempt. If you're using ordinary DC controls, you might try assembling it without the plastic and foam and see if the gears line up. In all likelihood, that would supply electric to the right brush on the motor via the locomotive frame. Note that the brush spring on the left side has an insulating sleeve between it and the brush. This isolates the brush. The brush arm has a bit of solder on it with bits of wire stuck in. The wire to the insulated side of the motor that Justin mentioned would attach to that solder. Originally posted by scsshaggy - January 12 2020 :  11:07:01 PM

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quote: No telling why it was shimmed. One wire runs from the motor to the tender off the insulated side of the motor or the pick up shoe on the engine. Originally posted by Redneck Justin - January 12 2020 :  12:43:38 PM There were no wires even going to the tender on mine. Could I see a picture? Originally posted by BlaxlandAlex3 - January 12 2020 :  12:51:05 PM

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Your motor windings are shiney and the varnish color is bright so you loco has not been used very much. If your motor sits on the frame, which is not deformed and the gears properly align, all parts are clean of old grease and dirt motor bearings and gears and other rubbing surfaces have new oil. All axles and frame recess they fit in are clean and oiled all should be alright. oil is applied to rod and screw surfaces, with body off turn the armature with your fingertips watch it move. With power on low raise power to wher it moves. The drive should turn freely and repeatedly. If at one point the gearing disengages that is where there is a low spot on the drive gear. This is a sign of loco being run with old grease caked up or no oil. The cure for worn gear is raising the motor ever so slightly with a shim, as was done. If this doesn't work you need new gears. <span id='hl' style='background-color: darkviolet'>( a good test for a freely moving drive is with the motor removed, place it on the track and give it a push and see it roll with side rods spinning around and pistons going in and out shown a nice loose drive.) [/hl] I have cleaned, lubes, and tested this thing inside out. The chassis rolls smoothly and freely. The gears still do not engage. Could I see a picture of the inside of one of yours to see if my gear is different? The frame and all parts are without zinc rot or warp, which I was lucky to find. The only thing I can conclude is that the worm was replaced. frank Originally posted by toptrain - January 13 2020 :  07:13:56 AM

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Is it all back together? Does the motor turn with power on but not engage geared axle? frank Originally posted by toptrain - January 13 2020 :  09:38:42 AM

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Is this what you want. frank Originally posted by toptrain - January 13 2020 :  11:14:33 AM

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Alex this line you wrote "Maybe there is a shim that was supposed to be there, maybe out of metal, because when I press my finger down on the worm gear it engages." says put back the shim maybe even a thicker one. also this is the same motor that all 4 of my o-8-o's have. frank Originally posted by toptrain - January 13 2020 :  8:20:04 PM