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 Posted - April 08 2015 : 11:36:34 PM
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Hey, I have an old MRC power pack I got with a bunch of stuff from my grandparents and I was wondering, how do I get rust off of this thing? I need to know by Friday night or else my parents will throw this old thing out (it works good).
-Steve
"A lot of modellers out there who go to these train shows see broken HO stuff and go, 'This is useless' when, in reality, they can still be used for modeling whether it's as a prop on your layout or a cool project to make something old new again."
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Posted - April 09 2015 : 12:07:09 AM
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Stephen,
Old MRC packs are riveted and are very hard to take apart. It is not a good idea to do that any
way. Inspect the power cord for cracks or damage. If the power cord is bad, I suggest you trash the unit. The power cord should be replaced only by a adult with electrical skills.
If the cord is good. If the knobs pull off then remove them and try cleaning the unit with a Scotch bright pad the best you can. Tape off the switches, knob shafts, terminals, power cord, and any holes. Then with a couple of light coats, paint the unit with rustoleum paint. Be careful and try to not have any runs.
If the power cord shows any signs of cracks, then this is a unit that is dangerous to use.
Good luck, John
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Posted - April 09 2015 : 12:14:53 AM
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quote:Stephen,
Old MRC packs are riveted and are very hard to take apart. It is not a good idea to do that any
way. Inspect the power cord for cracks or damage. If the power cord is bad, I suggest you trash the unit. The power cord should be replaced only by a adult with electrical skills.
If the cord is good. If the knobs pull off then remove them and try cleaning the unit with a Scotch bright pad the best you can. Tape off the switches, knob shafts, terminals, power cord, and any holes. Then with a couple of light coats, paint the unit with rustoleum paint. Be careful and try to not have any runs.
If the power cord shows any signs of cracks, then this is a unit that is dangerous to use.
Good luck, John
Originally posted by JRG1951Â -Â April 09 2015Â :Â 12:07:09 AM
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There are no cracks as far as I can tell.
-Steve
"A lot of modellers out there who go to these train shows see broken HO stuff and go, 'This is useless' when, in reality, they can still be used for modeling whether it's as a prop on your layout or a cool project to make something old new again."
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Posted - April 09 2015 : 12:19:33 AM
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If you have a Harbor Frieght store close they sell an actual rust remover. Quart container is around $8. It's non toxic and can be applied by small paint brush. Have used this product for years. Product does not harm anything. It's so mild I'm not even sure how it works...
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Posted - April 09 2015 : 12:23:15 AM
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quote:If you have a Harbor Frieght store close they sell an actual rust remover. Quart container is around $8. It's non toxic and can be applied by small paint brush. Have used this product for years. Product does not harm anything. It's so mild I'm not even sure how it works...
Originally posted by walt - April 09 2015 : 12:19:33 AM
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Unfortunately, I don't. Only a Lowe's which my dad has offered to take me to for other things for the switching layout. Although Lowe's seem to have a lot of rust removal related stuff so I will most likely look at that if he lets me.
-Steve
"A lot of modellers out there who go to these train shows see broken HO stuff and go, 'This is useless' when, in reality, they can still be used for modeling whether it's as a prop on your layout or a cool project to make something old new again."
Edited by - kovacste000 on April 09 2015 12:57:46 AM
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Posted - April 09 2015 : 05:06:31 AM
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Throw that thing away!
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Posted - April 09 2015 : 08:48:17 AM
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A little surface rust looks bad, but if the power pack works, it's not really damaged. I've seen dimmers, microswitches, motors and intricate machinery working just fine after immersion in flood water (including sewage). Those old MRC power packs were good, solid equipment as in "they don't make them like that, anymore."
They're simple, low-tech and understandable so there's nothing mystical and esoteric that's going to come back and bite you when the moon is full. For the first few times you use it, don't leave it unattended. Then, if it still hasn't caught fire it's not likely to.
Carpe Manana!
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Posted - April 09 2015 : 09:20:07 AM
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Apply a little bit of apple cider vinegar to the faceplate and let it sit 30 to 60 minutes. The rust should wipe off as a sludge with a paper towel. Repeat as necessary. Just remember to coat the bare metal with something, paint for long term, though WD 40 would work short term, otherwise surface rust will form quickly.
My Youtube Channel: http://www.youtube.com/user/weekendrailroader?blend=1&ob=video-mustangbase
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Posted - April 09 2015 : 09:20:57 AM
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Might want to just take a stiff wire brush across all of the metal being careful not to scratch the knobs and switches and just manually remove the rust. Then brush paint it. Looks like it might be riveted together. If it were screws, I'd take the whole thing apart and then just dip the case in a bath of vinegar for a night or 3. Then paint it with a good primer and Krylon color of your choice.
Tim
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Posted - April 09 2015 : 10:53:02 AM
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Safety First!!!!!
Stephen,
This is an old product. It most likely has a selenium rectifier in it with some old insulation products. The switches and other parts are riveted to the front case. You will not be able to dip the case to strip it. Any type of chemical may leak into the box and damage the old insulation. Old MRC packs are riveted and are very hard to take apart. It is not a good idea to do that any way. the switches and other parts are riveted to the front case.
My scotch bright/Rustoleum method is the safest way to keep this antique in operation. It will not look very good but it will not hurt you either.
This product really needs a grounded cord added to it. This should be done by a adult with the proper knowledge
I would suggest that you replace the unit and not try to save it.
Regards, John
There are old electricians and there are bold electricians, but there are no old bold electricians. <> Junior
Edited by - JRG1951 on April 09 2015 10:56:27 AM
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Posted - April 09 2015 : 11:32:45 AM
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I'd trash it. Never know what has corroded on the inside. I wouldn't trust it. Insulation rots off and electrical components corrode. They are cheap at train shows.
" Heck with counting 'em rivets, TRAINS ARE FOR FUN! Not called the Mad Scientist for nothing either!"
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Posted - April 09 2015 : 11:53:34 AM
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I'll try to go with the rustoleum stuff. Do they sell them at Lowe's?
-Steve
"A lot of modellers out there who go to these train shows see broken HO stuff and go, 'This is useless' when, in reality, they can still be used for modeling whether it's as a prop on your layout or a cool project to make something old new again."
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Posted - April 09 2015 : 12:05:47 PM
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I tend to agree with your parents on this one. Unless you're comfortable drilling out the rivets and cleaning out the inside, there's no telling what kind of corrosion is going on in there. At the very least the switch contacts are heavily oxidized. And even if you manage to get the rust off the front panel, the silk screening is gone.
The Tyco Depot
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Posted - April 09 2015 : 2:15:10 PM
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quote:I tend to agree with your parents on this one. Unless you're comfortable drilling out the rivets and cleaning out the inside, there's no telling what kind of corrosion is going on in there. At the very least the switch contacts are heavily oxidized. And even if you manage to get the rust off the front panel, the silk screening is gone.
Originally posted by NickelPlate759Â -Â April 09 2015Â :Â 12:05:47 PM
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Maybe I should just use it as a test power pack to see if accessories and stuff work if I don't want to throw it out.
-Steve
"A lot of modellers out there who go to these train shows see broken HO stuff and go, 'This is useless' when, in reality, they can still be used for modeling whether it's as a prop on your layout or a cool project to make something old new again."
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Posted - April 09 2015 : 2:17:13 PM
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well don't toss it
Send it to me! 
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Posted - April 09 2015 : 2:54:43 PM
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quote:well don't toss it
Send it to me!
Originally posted by microbusss - April 09 2015 : 2:17:13 PM
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 I won't, I'll try to use it for testing purposes most likely.
-Steve
"A lot of modellers out there who go to these train shows see broken HO stuff and go, 'This is useless' when, in reality, they can still be used for modeling whether it's as a prop on your layout or a cool project to make something old new again."
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Posted - April 09 2015 : 3:13:22 PM
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As much as I have a personal rule that since I can resurrect it or use it, there's no need for me to ever trash any old train stuff... powerpacks are an exception. I don't trust old, corroded electrical equipment to not set fire to a room containing 1000+ freight cars. And considering how plentiful old transformers are (my friend Rich would be happy to give you an entire crate of them just to free up space) there's not a whole lot of reason to save one that you can find in better shape if you absolutely must have one.
--CRC
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Posted - April 09 2015 : 3:33:04 PM
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| If it will power 200 HO scale light poles send it to me!
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Posted - April 09 2015 : 7:29:09 PM
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quote:If it will power 200 HO scale light poles send it to me!
Originally posted by walt - April 09 2015 : 3:33:04 PM
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It probably can.But yeah, as much as I would hate to throw this thing out, no one else would want it and the rust may eventually destroy the insides. Same with all the others that are rusty that I got in that same lot. Maybe I should either save some of them for later and throw the rest out.
-Steve
"A lot of modellers out there who go to these train shows see broken HO stuff and go, 'This is useless' when, in reality, they can still be used for modeling whether it's as a prop on your layout or a cool project to make something old new again."
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Posted - April 09 2015 : 10:12:40 PM
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Unless the unit was immersed in water, the outside is just latent rust corrosion, and is NOT necessarily an indication of any condition INSIDE the unit. Personally, I'd wrap the thing in paper towels with the vinegar stripper soaked on it, wipe it off later, spray it with clear-coat paint to save the old indicator positions silkscreens, and leave it at that. Test it, if it works, use it. Sorry, but many modern items like hair dryers and electric shavers and stereo radios still use 2-prong electrical connections, having Earth ground is nice, but I don't think anyone is going to be operating trains in the bathtub.  And quite frankly, I see far more people asking WAY to much money for MRC power packs here in the Mid-atlantic region than maybe is warranted, I'd save it if possible. They're just very long-lived. If the cord isn't brittle and cracking, clean it off, test it, use the vinegar strip lightly, or a green scrubbie pad, and paint it with clear coat. That's what I'd do. And I have taken them apart, drilled out the rivets, checked them, and put self-tapping screws back into units. Long as it's not plugged in when you take it apart, there's nothing dangerous inside to warrant such admonitions about any danger, Sheesh! It's a freaking transformer, some early Lionel types had some oil-filled coils that were poisonous, but most of the more modern ( ie, post WWII era ) stuff got away from those oil-filled transformers, they're dry types now. You will learn nothing if you do not experiment with it. Don't let those OTHER old foggies try to turn you off from attempting to save it. It's just surface rust. I'd follow their advice to not leave it unattended, no transformer should be, a pet or small child visitor could lay something across the track, cause a short, and it could start a fire ( even with a new power supply that could be possible ). Just take reasonable precautions, and you won't get hurt.
Jerry in VA
" When life throws you bananas...it's easy to slip up"
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Posted - April 10 2015 : 1:47:21 PM
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Thank you all for the advice so far, I will attempt to do that this weekend hopefully.
-Steve
"A lot of modellers out there who go to these train shows see broken HO stuff and go, 'This is useless' when, in reality, they can still be used for modeling whether it's as a prop on your layout or a cool project to make something old new again."
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Posted - April 10 2015 : 6:29:30 PM
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Safety First
An older power packs with a metal case and a two prong cord can be a deadly device. When these were new the insulation was state of the art. Now this insulation is no longer state of the art and is 30 to 40 years old. The older insulation was fiber board that gets brittle with age, and varnish that will also break down. The vinegar is a harsh chemical that may cause these old insulators to fail, even the fumes.
The three wire AC power system was invented to help prevent deaths from this type of device, but the system only works if the metal case is grounded. New 2 wire devices are double insulated and that is to prevent human harm.
As the picture show the older MRC packs were metal and all the devices were attached to the case.
If the power cord, power switch or the transformer break down then the case may have 120VAC on it. Not a safe situation. With a 2 wire system, then you may be the source of a ground. It may not burn you, but it can sure stop your heart.
Regards, John
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Posted - April 10 2015 : 7:08:12 PM
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quote:
Safety First
Originally posted by JRG1951Â -Â April 10 2015Â :Â 6:29:30 PM
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To that, I agree. In that case, I WOULD drill out the rivets, check the interior for any damage, ohm out the connections to make sure there are no shorts, use self-tapping screws to reassemble it, and still use it. I realize that things do improve with time, technologically, but that even old devices can still be used safely. if care is taken to check them properly. I've had more than one Tyco gold Power Pack die on me, but I can't say I've had any MRC types go bad. If you're loaded with money, go buy new. If not, take the safe road and thoroughly check out the old pack, and then you'll know for sure it's generally safe to use. They were built as a child's toy, and they built in as much safe-guards as they could back then, otherwise they wouldn't have lasted 30-40 years. My Shop repairs old Lionel power packs, drill out the rivets on the smaller ones, replace the cords and any worn parts, and reassemble them. Nothing illegal about it, and it saves a vintage power supply. While I can appreciate the sentiment of safely, I just don't believe " at all costs" is necessary in this case. I WOULD take the further step of drilling out the rivets to check the internals, but as long as they check out, use it.
Jerry
" When life throws you bananas...it's easy to slip up"
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Posted - April 10 2015 : 7:51:23 PM
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Jerry,
In many aspects, I agree with you. If I needed a MRC pack a test and replacement power cord would be in order. A three wire cord would make the metal case safe and prevent any chance of a hot case. Old Lionel packs that are in bakelight cases are OK if not damaged. My comments are directed at all modelers. You have a high skill/knowledge level, many do not. I want them to learn, as you do, but not in an unsafe way.
Regards, John
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Posted - April 11 2015 : 11:51:53 AM
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quote:Jerry,
In many aspects, I agree with you. If I needed a MRC pack a test and replacement power cord would be in order. A three wire cord would make the metal case safe and prevent any chance of a hot case. Old Lionel packs that are in bakelight cases are OK if not damaged. My comments are directed at all modelers. You have a high skill/knowledge level, many do not. I want them to learn, as you do, but not in an unsafe way.
Regards, John
Originally posted by JRG1951Â -Â April 10 2015Â :Â 7:51:23 PM
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I understand, John. I don't want to hurt myself with this thing either. That's why I tend to wear gloves around these sorts of things usually. Unless it was something I got when it was brand new, in that case I would know if it was good enough to use or not for sure. But I didn't, obviously, so I just need to make sure it's good enough to use, period.
-Steve
"A lot of modellers out there who go to these train shows see broken HO stuff and go, 'This is useless' when, in reality, they can still be used for modeling whether it's as a prop on your layout or a cool project to make something old new again."
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Posted - October 18 2015 : 4:21:11 PM
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This is an old topic, but I would like to throw my two cents in anyway... Old MRC power packs are plentiful and cheap there for restoring a rusted out power pack is probably more trouble than it is worth (unless the unit in question has sentimental value).
Proudly keeping Tyco Pluggers out of landfills since 2016
Edited by - Srenchin on October 18 2015 4:22:47 PM
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Posted - October 18 2015 : 5:49:39 PM
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quote:This is an old topic, but I would like to throw my two cents in anyway... Old MRC power packs are plentiful and cheap there for restoring a rusted out power pack is probably more trouble than it is worth (unless the unit in question has sentimental value).
Originally posted by Srenchin - October 18 2015 : 4:21:11 PM
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My parents threw it away without me knowing a few months ago so yeah.
-Steve
"A lot of modellers out there who go to these train shows see broken HO stuff and go, 'This is useless' when, in reality, they can still be used for modeling whether it's as a prop on your layout or a cool project to make something old new again."
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