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 Posted - March 24 2015 : 08:58:04 AM
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Hello,
Recently purchased a Stewart Engine off Ebay. Unfortunately the drive shaft keeps slipping out. Therefore you either hear it grinding against the brass or it doesn't move. If it is perfectly level and the sheft is placed properly it will run. But as you can see from the pic if the truck tilts in any way the shaft pops out of the drive. This happens when placing it on the track as well as when it goes across Tyco accessories like the train crossing, etc.
Can anyone tell me how to correct this problem?
Notice the shaft outside the brass.
Unlevel truck
I think this is the correct schematic for my train.
Edited by - BPD2144 on March 24 2015 09:13:28 AM
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Posted - March 24 2015 : 1:59:25 PM
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Any chance you can wad up a little piece of paper and stick it in the truck side to keep the shaft pushed into the flywheel? Or maybe a short spring?
I have made shafts longer by cutting them in half then super gluing a short section of appropriate sized ball-point pen cartridge tube in the middle.
Randy
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Posted - March 24 2015 : 8:09:35 PM
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Sounds like the driveshaft is too short, it should not come out all the way. Usually you have to install the shaft part-way, with the truck loose, then attach the truck to enclose the shaft. Someone may have just found a shaft and put it in, and it's not long enough to do the job properly.
What rb said - you can always lengthen the shaft some with a splice. sounds like that or a new one, as the shaft should not totally disengage even with the truck turning, so I think you have a too-short shaft. Er, nothing personal intended. 
Jerry in VA
" When life throws you bananas...it's easy to slip up"
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Posted - March 24 2015 : 11:50:06 PM
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You need to post much larger res photos for anyone to see what's going on. The worm covers at the top of the gear towers usually have long tabs that keep the truck locked onto the mounting kingpin. Sometimes they get broken off, but I think I can see them both intact in your second shot.
If the dogbone keeps falling out, it's possible the universal cup has been pushed too far onto the worm shaft and is leaving too much of a gap. You might be able to move the universal cup outward on the shaft might be enough to prevent it, but as I said it's impossible to tell with thumbnail sized pictures.
The Tyco Depot
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Posted - March 25 2015 : 11:49:41 AM
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I emailed Stewart/Bowser and got these replies:
"The universal on the worm shaft can be moved toward the flywheel.
This will keep the universal shaft in the flywheel.
Stewart never made a universal for the front truck he always moved the universal
The universal on the end of the worm shaft is a press on fit.
If you slide a screw driver between the universal and the worm bearing then
rock the screw driver away from the universal
the universal will slide on the shaft. you need about 1/16" or so"
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Posted - March 25 2015 : 12:13:29 PM
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Posted - March 25 2015 : 4:52:40 PM
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Yep, so that should do it. Pull the universal cup on the truck towards the motor to keep the horned ball in the flywheel cup.
The Tyco Depot
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Posted - March 25 2015 : 8:36:02 PM
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Tried that. The cup comes completely off the ball. Won't stay on unless it's completely on. The shaft is just too short.
Any suggestions on buying a longer shaft or making one?
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Posted - March 25 2015 : 8:53:05 PM
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Mark,
Just a guess, but is it possible that the motor is turned 180 degrees. This could cause the fly-wheels to be spaced wrong on each end. I would also check the drive lines to see if they could be swapped.
Regards, John
We cannot always assure the future of our friends; we have a better chance of assuring our future if we remember who our friends are. <> Henry A. Kissinger
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Posted - March 25 2015 : 9:06:00 PM
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I thought there was a universal cup mounted on the worm shaft as is typical practice, but they've put a horned ball on the worm shaft and designed a universal with a cup and a ball at opposite ends instead. You need to pry the horned ball outward on the steel shaft.
If it's still too short, you need a replacement worm & shaft assembly from Stewart that's long enough. Either that, or press a new piece of 2mm shafting though the worm and cut it to length.
The Tyco Depot
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Posted - March 25 2015 : 10:25:13 PM
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Checked engine, seems to placed correctly. Removed rear truck shaft and it's the same length as the front shaft.
Looking at schematic it seems I am missing part #165. There is a gap by the front brass #31 flywheel that is not present by the rear one.
Prying the horned ball doesn't seem to work bc it does not budge. The solution presented is way beyond my skill set.
Also it seems to be quite difficult to break down the engine and remove the dcc board to get at the area needed to replace the "possible" missing part.
So do I order the part? Or send it off to be professionally fixed? (I enjoy tinkering with these engines but I'm totally new to it and don't want to cause more problems)
Thanks for all your help!!!
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Posted - March 25 2015 : 11:39:35 PM
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If the arrows indicate where you've been prying, you're at the wrong end. That's the flywheel, and you don't want to mess with it. You need to move the black plastic ball -- numbered 167 in the diagram -- at the top of the truck. If you have two small standard screwdrivers you can place both tips on either side of the steel shaft between the ball and the top of the gear housing and carefully pry it slightly further out on the shaft.
If that's too involved, then you should send it in for service.
The Tyco Depot
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Posted - March 26 2015 : 6:31:09 PM
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Thank you everyone for their suggestions. Thank you Nickle Plate! Your solution worked.
I'm so glad this forum exists. Without it I'd be completely lost. Thankfully I didn't give up in registering. It took 3 times with 3 different email addresses.
Thanks again!
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Posted - March 26 2015 : 11:42:40 PM
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Glad we could help. Now have some fun with that thing! 
(Btw I just re-read your post. Part 165 is the other universal cup. It's the plastic flywheel insert.)
The Tyco Depot
Edited by - NickelPlate759 on March 26 2015 11:45:47 PM
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