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 Posted - February 07 2015 : 4:39:15 PM
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Someone posted about this not long ago.
I can't remember which post it was in.
I'd like to rebuild this, but the motor is beyond saving.
As you can see, it got a bit melty.
What switcher is a good donor for this? Anything I have is too large to fit
inside the shell.
Evan
 
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Posted - February 07 2015 : 4:51:21 PM
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The motor looks like Rivarossi to me.
Randy
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Posted - February 07 2015 : 5:33:14 PM
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| Yes, but what I meant was, what RR switcher used the same size motor.
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Posted - February 07 2015 : 6:18:31 PM
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** Before you go looking for a motor, how about fixing the surface the new motor will attach to. Get it smooth again. You will probably have to modify a different motor to run that loco.
toptrain
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Posted - February 07 2015 : 7:40:13 PM
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That chassis is melted almost beyond repair. They were thin and weak to begin with. I see some styrene and putty work in your future. It's a shame, because I see at least 3 of the steps are intact, and most are usually gone.
Their little 0-4-0 side tanker used the same ball bearing motor, and the worm should be the same. They are the least expensive of those old Rivarossi switchers.
The Tyco Depot
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Posted - February 07 2015 : 8:32:50 PM
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I just finished 2 Rivarossi U-25C's and they used this motor.
Randy
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Posted - February 07 2015 : 8:44:32 PM
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These older motors from the 50's and early 60's were actually larger than those that made it into the U25C and later models for AHM. The more compact later models also used fiber reinforced plastic housings that wouldn't melt like this older styrene one.
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Posted - February 07 2015 : 10:38:27 PM
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The repair to the chassis was definitely in the plan, Frank.
I will be on the look-out for the 0-4-0t.
We have a show coming up on May 24.
Actually a stupid date for a show, as it's a long weekend in Canada, eh.
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Posted - February 07 2015 : 10:44:29 PM
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PGE, this is the one you need: http://www.rivarossi-memory.it/ENGLISH_VERSION/Riva_American_Locos/Riva_0-4-0_Eng.htm
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Posted - February 08 2015 : 09:27:16 AM
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quote:The repair to the chassis was definitely in the plan, Frank.
I will be on the look-out for the 0-4-0t.
We have a show coming up on May 24.
Actually a stupid date for a show, as it's a long weekend in Canada, eh.
Originally posted by PGE33Â -Â February 07 2015Â :Â 10:38:27 PM
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A lot of 0-6-0t locos were sold also. I have one and the motor looks very much the same. frank
toptrain
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Posted - February 08 2015 : 12:35:13 PM
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quote:We have a show coming up on May 24.
Actually a stupid date for a show, as it's a long weekend in Canada, eh.
Originally posted by PGE33Â -Â February 07 2015Â :Â 10:38:27 PM
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The holiday is May 18.
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Posted - February 08 2015 : 2:13:59 PM
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I really should get a 2015 calendar.
Darn movable feasts.
This should help attendance.
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Posted - February 08 2015 : 6:43:23 PM
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Frank, you're right; the 0-6-0 side tankers had the same motor, but I didn't mention it because they are rarer than the 0-4-0 and go for more $.
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Posted - February 08 2015 : 7:51:31 PM
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would it help to file off the melted plastic & then make a brace for under the motor?
That way the heat off the motor disperses easier
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Posted - February 09 2015 : 12:06:06 AM
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The motor won't overheat normally. It must have been run with an obstruction, had too much brush dust in the commutator slots, or just shorted a winding to end up like that. One pole looks a lot blacker than the other.
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Posted - February 10 2015 : 11:38:28 PM
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| Don't take those Rivarossi ball bearing motors apart, you'll never get the ball bearings back in. I learned this, the hard way a couple of weeks ago.....
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Posted - February 11 2015 : 07:39:11 AM
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Actually, it's still salvageable. All you need is a toothpick and a grease like vaseline in the cups to place and hold onto the bearings while you reassemble it. About 5 go in the small cup, and 10 in the large.
These are the original 1mm chromium bearings, but I bought a bag of 1000 extras on Amazon, so I have enough spares for several lifetimes and don't have to worry about losing any, lol.
Most of the time you don't have to remove the armature from the field, but if you need to polish the commutator you need a keeper, or you'll lose most of the magnet's charge and the motor will be very weak. It doesn't get any simpler with these because you can just push the armature out of the field with a socket with a matching OD.
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