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 Posted - August 30 2014 : 8:47:06 PM
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Just got a 1890 Ten Wheeler 4-6-0 Steam Locomotive. The area around front smoke stack cracked while attempting to replace it with upgraded smoke stack. I was able to save the small plastic pieces. Any suggestions on best glue or other adhesive to make repair? As always, any help is much appreciated. Thanks! 
ArtSkull.com: Graphic Design & Illustration
Edited by - artskull on August 30 2014 8:54:06 PM
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Posted - August 30 2014 : 11:10:06 PM
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For plastic I use model glue although it can leave certain marks. Best I can do.
-Steve
"A lot of modellers out there who go to these train shows see broken HO stuff and go, 'This is useless' when, in reality, they can still be used for modeling whether it's as a prop on your layout or a cool project to make something old new again."
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Posted - August 31 2014 : 12:24:50 AM
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Is it the smokebox that's cracked, or the stack itself?
I use Zap CA for most repairs. Put a drop on some scrap plastic and then apply it carefully to the break with a pin, but it sounds like you have a number of broken pieces and that makes things trickier.
A thin solvent like Testors, Ambroid Pro-weld, or Tenax, which are much easier to control than model glue and will give you some working time (and won't glue your fingers to the boiler). Just watch the how much you apply and the paint job. If the smokebox area is cracked, best to apply any glue from inside the boiler. A solvent glue repair can be reinforced from the inside with layers of CA once it's been given enough time to dry.
The Tyco Depot
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Posted - August 31 2014 : 01:12:23 AM
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| I agree NP759... The Zap CA is some serious plastic adhesive...
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Posted - August 31 2014 : 12:38:53 PM
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| I had one of these where one of the ports for the handrail stanchions, the top part of it busted off. Tiny piece. I would get it in place and breathe and it would move. I ended up using JB Weld and sort of molding the top half of the port around the stanchion. It was too small to really get after and try and shape once it was cured, but if you shape the JB Weld pretty well while you still can, I found I could live with the results; particularly after it was painted. It does kind of make you feel sick when you do that kind of damage to your new prize . . . I'm always doing that . . . and then each time I repair something that I screwed up, I'm thinking well now I know not to try that again. "Next time . . . I'll sand off a little of this smoke stack that seems to fit to tight" versus " . . . if I'm careful and just push a little on this bottom edge . . . "
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Posted - August 31 2014 : 3:57:26 PM
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Thanks everyone for your help and suggestions. I'll be looking for Zap CA adhesive. I'm glad to hear I'm not the only one who has damaged a new piece by being impatient with repairs.
ArtSkull.com: Graphic Design & Illustration
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Posted - August 31 2014 : 5:16:07 PM
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Depending on the part, if its a plastic piece, try either pro weld or MEK. If you do be careful as it basically melts and "welds" the plastic, so use light amounts.
just me Ray... and just because I have Tyco doesn't mean I am not a model railroader
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Posted - August 31 2014 : 7:13:18 PM
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CA CEMENT
All the local shops around here carry BSI glues (http://www.bsi-inc.com/index.html) and I use the purple bottle, whichever that one is, for literally everything.
--CRC
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