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Posted - May 26 2014 : 01:40:28 AM
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I recently got a Hobbytown ALCO PA-1 kit, and in mint condition! I'm starting a video series to show my build progress, so here's the first one:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nK9CFzd-F-s
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Posted - May 26 2014 : 11:12:55 AM
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Man, I'm so jealous of you, Darth. Looking forward to your future videos on building this engine.
-Steve
"A lot of modellers out there who go to these train shows see broken HO stuff and go, 'This is useless' when, in reality, they can still be used for modeling whether it's as a prop on your layout or a cool project to make something old new again."
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Posted - May 26 2014 : 12:01:31 PM
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Part 2!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yFxSzxscnD8
This focuses on building the chassis. It'll be a little while before the next one, because I'm going to order some appropriate PRR details. That video will focus on finishing the body.
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Posted - May 26 2014 : 12:51:24 PM
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what is the metal on these? Wouldn't Zinc Rot be a problem?
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Posted - May 26 2014 : 12:57:20 PM
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Zinc rot is only a problem if the batch of metal was contaminated. As long as the metal is pure, it will last forever. That's why some batches of old trains crumble away, but others are still good as new.
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Posted - May 26 2014 : 2:06:33 PM
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quote:Part 2!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yFxSzxscnD8
This focuses on building the chassis. It'll be a little while before the next one, because I'm going to order some appropriate PRR details. That video will focus on finishing the body.
Originally posted by Darth Santa Fe - May 26 2014 : 12:01:31 PM
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That engine kit is like what, 65 years old. Almost as old as the average life span of a human male and it runs like as if it was brand new. By the way, those kits look pretty fun to build. I see train kits at train shows from time to time and may actually pick one up.
-Steve
"A lot of modellers out there who go to these train shows see broken HO stuff and go, 'This is useless' when, in reality, they can still be used for modeling whether it's as a prop on your layout or a cool project to make something old new again."
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Posted - May 26 2014 : 8:36:17 PM
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Zinc rot can indeed be a big problem but I have had some success in making molds of the original parts (in my case, the chassis of a Varney tender) and then making wax masters of the mold followed by investment casting in brass. It can be done and the part you end up with is far superior and more stable than the original.
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Posted - May 26 2014 : 9:28:16 PM
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quote:Zinc rot can indeed be a big problem but I have had some success in making molds of the original parts (in my case, the chassis of a Varney tender) and then making wax masters of the mold followed by investment casting in brass. It can be done and the part you end up with is far superior and more stable than the original.
Originally posted by metalsmith1Â -Â May 26 2014Â :Â 8:36:17 PM
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That actually sounds like a pretty cool idea to be honest.
-Steve
"A lot of modellers out there who go to these train shows see broken HO stuff and go, 'This is useless' when, in reality, they can still be used for modeling whether it's as a prop on your layout or a cool project to make something old new again."
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Posted - May 27 2014 : 07:33:49 AM
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quote:Zinc rot can indeed be a big problem but I have had some success in making molds of the original parts (in my case, the chassis of a Varney tender) and then making wax masters of the mold followed by investment casting in brass. It can be done and the part you end up with is far superior and more stable than the original.
Originally posted by metalsmith1Â -Â May 26 2014Â :Â 8:36:17 PM
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ms1:
Easy as that, is it. :D
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Posted - May 28 2014 : 11:28:42 PM
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Believe it or not it is pretty straightforward and you can make the molds from quick setting putty. Then you can fill the mold with wax, candle wax will work, microcrystaline is better. Set the wax master in a small cask and pour plaster around it. I have even had some success substituting plaster of paris for investment plaster and then pouring the cast in pewter which you can melt at home at a very low temp. Another option is to make the new part in casting resin if electrical continuity is not a concern. These materials are available from Micro-mark.
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Posted - May 30 2014 : 07:29:55 AM
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quote:Believe it or not it is pretty straightforward and you can make the molds from quick setting putty. Then you can fill the mold with wax, candle wax will work, microcrystaline is better. Set the wax master in a small cask and pour plaster around it. I have even had some success substituting plaster of paris for investment plaster and then pouring the cast in pewter which you can melt at home at a very low temp. Another option is to make the new part in casting resin if electrical continuity is not a concern. These materials are available from Micro-mark.
Originally posted by metalsmith1Â -Â May 28 2014Â :Â 11:28:42 PM
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m:
Very cool! What do you use to melt your brass? Brass melts at a fairly high temp, or so the Germans would have me believe. Are these just poured or do you use some sort of pressure or centrifugal setup?
I always wanted to try casting, but except for some plaster and epoxy detail parts, I never got that far.
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Posted - May 30 2014 : 10:43:16 PM
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Melting point of brass is about 1800 if i remember correctly, I have used a centrifuge to cast as well as a vacuform machine. Check out my post in the AHM section under C-liner becomes art.
Edited by - metalsmith1 on May 30 2014 10:44:48 PM
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Posted - May 31 2014 : 12:39:49 AM
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I got some parts in today from Howard (owner of Hobbytown), and my LHS has informed me that my other details are in, so I've already started getting to work! What I've done so far is turning out great, and I'll hopefully have the next video up next week.
I don't think recasting the model in brass will be necessary this time around, but it sounds like an interesting project! Working with molten metal's not exactly my favorite thing though, so I think I'll avoid that for as long as I can...
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Posted - May 31 2014 : 02:22:02 AM
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quote:Working with molten metal's not exactly my favorite thing though...
Originally posted by Darth Santa Fe - May 31 2014 : 12:39:49 AM
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Bad memories of Geonosis, eh Darth? :D
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Posted - May 31 2014 : 6:38:38 PM
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Nice job. These kits were actually pretty easy to build. How much current did it draw assembled and under load, and did it drop at all after the break-in period?
The Tyco Depot
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Posted - May 31 2014 : 7:28:03 PM
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After assembly, it drew about .25 to .3 amps on average, running free or with a load. It's remained pretty constant. I think it's because I had gotten everything working very freely before actually running it.
Autobus Prime, I nearly lost a couple perfectly droids in that factory! The people are easy to keep in line though. I just walk around with a big fly-swatter, and they do what they're told.
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Posted - January 15 2015 : 01:04:08 AM
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Pretty big update coming soon! I've been doing a lot of detail work to bring this up to looking as good as a brass model, and am finally getting close to finishing the details! I've made some other improvements as well, and am coming up with some pretty innovative little extras. As to what it all is, you'll just have to see when I make the video!
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Posted - January 15 2015 : 09:28:52 AM
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quote:Pretty big update coming soon! I've been doing a lot of detail work to bring this up to looking as good as a brass model, and am finally getting close to finishing the details! I've made some other improvements as well, and am coming up with some pretty innovative little extras. As to what it all is, you'll just have to see when I make the video!
Originally posted by Darth Santa Fe - January 15 2015 : 01:04:08 AM
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That sounds awesome. Definitely looking forward to that.
-Steve
"A lot of modellers out there who go to these train shows see broken HO stuff and go, 'This is useless' when, in reality, they can still be used for modeling whether it's as a prop on your layout or a cool project to make something old new again."
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Posted - January 19 2015 : 8:13:04 PM
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Took a while, but I've finally got part 3 up!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C85NtDiXfLM
This video's mostly about the roof details. The PRR ALCOs had a lot to them in this area!
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Posted - January 19 2015 : 10:03:10 PM
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Darth - the working fan is the coolest detail I have seen. Amazing. Thanks for posting the video
http://tycodepot.com/
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Posted - January 19 2015 : 10:09:38 PM
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That's some nice work on a really cool engine. I went back and watched parts 1 and 2, as well and it's interesting how that thing goes together. That was an interesting trick, leaving end play in the front drive shaft to allow for the change in distance between the trucks on straight and curved track. It gets the job done and is much simpler than some sort of square telescoping shaft or something like that.
I, too, like the working fan with its Hi-F drive.
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Posted - January 20 2015 : 9:50:24 PM
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Part 4!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LvTf2lIdOTo
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Posted - January 20 2015 : 10:23:30 PM
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Fascinating stuff. The difference between the two motors is amazing.
http://tycodepot.com/
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Posted - January 21 2015 : 09:38:50 AM
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quote:Fascinating stuff. The difference between the two motors is amazing.
Originally posted by JNXT 7707Â -Â January 20 2015Â :Â 10:23:30 PM
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No kidding. Not only is the can motor quieter, it's also way smoother. Although, honestly, both motors are very good for their times.
-Steve
"A lot of modellers out there who go to these train shows see broken HO stuff and go, 'This is useless' when, in reality, they can still be used for modeling whether it's as a prop on your layout or a cool project to make something old new again."
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Posted - March 29 2015 : 11:44:14 PM
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Nice post, I liked the videos. I have started work on some Hobbytown PA 1 and B-units. Parts are hard to get, bidding goes crazy on E-bay. Does the original owner still have parts? How do I contact him? Any help greatly appreciated. Once finished, I plan to sell the locos, so I'm not planning on painting them. I feel that the new owner may have a particular road name he wants to use. I'm going to have parts left over, so if anyone else is working on them, let me know. Maybe we can swap parts....
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Posted - March 30 2015 : 11:39:32 PM
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Most of the drive parts are gone, but he still has some of the castings and details available. http://home.comcast.net/~bearbon/site/
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Posted - April 20 2015 : 12:05:56 AM
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Part 5 now up! This one finishes the details. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZU2-TyvswHY
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Posted - April 20 2015 : 9:19:22 PM
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I need to sit down and take a closer look at that video (which I've only peeked at briefly to date). Reason being to learn. Great work Darth Santa Fe.
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Posted - May 27 2015 : 12:33:50 AM
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The last video is finally finished!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VoJ5nbtTKwY
I also got some quick shots of the thing. It's just my iPhone camera, so they're not great. I may get better ones later with an actual camera.






I'm overall really happy with how this has turned out! The kit's around 60 years old, and all it needed were a few details and nice paint to bring it up to date. I'd put it up against a brass or modern plastic model any day!
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Posted - May 27 2015 : 06:12:05 AM
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Dang, that really pops! Great job on that. Hope mine turns out as well. Still working on getting it ready for primer and paint. Also decided to add a couple of extra details, like you did.
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Posted - May 27 2015 : 6:15:47 PM
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Very good job, very nice finished model. Thanks for sharing Regards, John
Oh he might have went on living but he made one fatal slip > When he tried to match the ranger with the big iron on his hip <> Big Iron -- Marty Robbins
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Posted - May 27 2015 : 10:53:28 PM
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That's one sweet job of detailing.
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Posted - May 28 2015 : 12:57:09 AM
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Thanks!
oldtimer52, you should put up some pictures when you're done!
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Posted - May 28 2015 : 08:27:35 AM
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Quite a lovely model! I did see one for sale with a added working fan.
" Heck with counting 'em rivets, TRAINS ARE FOR FUN! Not called the Mad Scientist for nothing either!"
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Posted - May 28 2015 : 9:55:02 PM
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Oh, I will. Am gonna have to put everything on hold for a few weeks tho. As with all of us "young" addicts, retirement time looms in the future. Mine has just jumped up and I gt to start it early. Will be kind of busy for the next few weeks getting packed and moved to my retirement place. Last move Will have all the time I need to get my 10 or so projects finished up and get my layout started after 20 years waiting.
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Posted - May 28 2015 : 11:16:46 PM
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Looks like a brass model now, actually. It definitely reminds me of one.
-Steve
"A lot of modellers out there who go to these train shows see broken HO stuff and go, 'This is useless' when, in reality, they can still be used for modeling whether it's as a prop on your layout or a cool project to make something old new again."
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Posted - May 31 2015 : 9:48:13 PM
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Found the good camera and got a few more photos with a little more detail! It's kind of hard to get really great photos with the dark color and basement lighting, but oh well.








Didn't see it before the photos, but the rear coupler box needs a little touch up. Everything else seems to be fine!
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Posted - May 31 2015 : 10:22:34 PM
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That is one beautiful loco Darth. I'd put that up against anything! Alco PA nirvana 
BTW - I'm doubly glad you posted these pics because it shows the rear detail of the antenna mount. Would this be typical for any Pennsy diesel such as a Shark?
http://tycodepot.com/
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Posted - May 31 2015 : 10:31:33 PM
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You'll have to check photos to be sure, but I think the rear details are pretty normal for PRR diesels like this one with the whole antenna set on top.
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Posted - June 01 2015 : 12:10:08 AM
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Dang Darth, that really turned out to be a beautiful loco. The decaling is really top notch.
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Posted - July 15 2017 : 9:46:33 PM
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Reposting the photos.








Good camera:





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Posted - July 16 2017 : 12:06:41 PM
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That, Darth, is quite the machine. If you don't mind my asking, what color is that called?
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Posted - July 16 2017 : 5:44:10 PM
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quote:That, Darth, is quite the machine. If you don't mind my asking, what color is that called?
Originally posted by Barry - July 16 2017 : 12:06:41 PM
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Thanks! I used Scalecoat II Brunswick Green, and black for the fuel tank and trucks.
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Posted - July 16 2017 : 7:01:31 PM
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do the fan turn?
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Posted - July 17 2017 : 01:21:32 AM
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It takes about 8V to start it, but the fan does turn.
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