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Can you post a picture of the motor? Different motors have their brushes arranged in different ways. I'm skeptical of making motor brushes out of hard substances like steel and phosphor bronze, because the wear part would then be the commutator rather than the brushes. I also wonder if the problem is in the brushes. Where are the jumper wires hooked up when the motor runs? In other words, are you bypassing the brushes and touching the jumpers to the commutator? If not, I would think the brushes would be okay if the motor runs. Originally posted by scsshaggy - January 03 2014 :  10:51:26 AM

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I am in the process of trying to rewire a JWBowker for all wheel pickup and return. This engine has a cab-mounted motor, and I think it needs new motor brushes, the motor runs with jumper wires, but not without them. I have this idea of making new ones from either phosphor bronze or steel piano wire. Has anyone done this, or are replacement brushes available? I have a can motor that would probably fit, if I have the skill to do it. I also want to add a headlight, if my modeling skills will permit. You guys make all this look so easy, but for someone like myself, it takes some real planning and careful procedures Originally posted by String boB - January 03 2014 :  08:33:25 AM

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Well, I'm having mouse problems again, and cannot post a photo. I guess I'll have to buy a new mouse and treat the two I have to the WD-40/sledgehammer treatment Originally posted by String boB - January 05 2014 :  2:33:03 PM

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I am in the process of trying to rewire a JWBowker for all wheel pickup and return. This engine has a cab-mounted motor, and I think it needs new motor brushes, the motor runs with jumper wires, but not without them. I have this idea of making new ones from either phosphor bronze or steel piano wire. Has anyone done this, or are replacement brushes available? I have a can motor that would probably fit, if I have the skill to do it. I also want to add a headlight, if my modeling skills will permit. You guys make all this look so easy, but for someone like myself, it takes some real planning and careful procedures Originally posted by String boB - January 03 2014 :  08:33:25 AM

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quote: Well, I'm having mouse problems again, and cannot post a photo. I guess I'll have to buy a new mouse and treat the two I have to the WD-40/sledgehammer treatment Originally posted by String boB - January 05 2014 :  2:33:03 PM Here's how: http://www.thecomicstrips.com/store/add.php?iid=71066 Originally posted by scsshaggy - January 05 2014 :  3:03:11 PM

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quote: quote: Well, I'm having mouse problems again, and cannot post a photo. I guess I'll have to buy a new mouse and treat the two I have to the WD-40/sledgehammer treatment Originally posted by String boB - January 05 2014 :  2:33:03 PM Here's how: http://www.thecomicstrips.com/store/add.php?iid=71066 Originally posted by scsshaggy - January 05 2014 :  3:03:11 PM Amen, brother, but Mike K has told me the error of my ways. I just hope it works! Originally posted by String boB - January 05 2014 :  7:16:51 PM

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quote: quote: quote: Well, I'm having mouse problems again, and cannot post a photo. I guess I'll have to buy a new mouse and treat the two I have to the WD-40/sledgehammer treatment Originally posted by String boB - January 05 2014 :  2:33:03 PM Here's how: http://www.thecomicstrips.com/store/add.php?iid=71066 Originally posted by scsshaggy - January 05 2014 :  3:03:11 PM Amen, brother, but Mike K has told me the error of my ways. I just hope it works! Originally posted by String boB - January 05 2014 :  7:16:51 PM I see the photo of my Bowker motor did not upload. I'll try it again. I'm thinking of bidding on a BIN motor on ebay if I can't get it to work other wise. I still need to know where to attach the power wires, too /tyco/forum/uploaded/String boB/20140106154344_DSCF1348.JPG Originally posted by String boB - January 06 2014 :  3:46:37 PM

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Bob, on the brush on the left, it looks like the spring has a big blob of solder on it and is bent so that the spring misses the slot into which it should fall to be able to push the brush down onto the commutator. Can that solder be cleaned off and the spring straightened to line up with the slot? Originally posted by scsshaggy - January 06 2014 :  7:08:41 PM

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I have a couple of Rivarossi Heislers with the same motor and the wires are soldered to that same sheet metal tab that yours are soldered to, but with less solder. The trick to having less stray solder is to clean the tabs, then put a little flux on them then melt a thin film of solder onto them. Next, clean and flux the ends of the wires and melt just a thin coat of solder onto them. I usually do this with just a small drop of solder on the end of the soldering iron. Once the wires and the tabs have the solder on them, just touch them together and heat with the iron until the two coatings of solder melt together. It makes for a neat, strong joint. It took me years of frustration before I learned the easy way. One further pointer: Get the iron good and hot before touching it to the work. The faster you can heat the place you want the solder to go, the less time the heat has to travel to something you'd rather not melt. Originally posted by scsshaggy - January 06 2014 :  11:42:18 PM