|
|
 Posted - December 21 2013 : 09:09:51 AM
|
I am trying to get this ALCO 1000 Diesel Locomotive - Burlington (No. 5010C -1971 Release, No. 5010-03) up and running again. Motor is getting power, spins intermittently, but just doesn't seem to want to keep spinning. I've cleaned brushes, wheels, etc. Any advice on motor repair or pointers would be appreciated.
ArtSkull.com: Graphic Design & Illustration
|
Country:  USA ~
Posts: 69 ~
Member Since: December 11 2012 ~
Last Visit: January 19 2020
|
Alert Moderator
|
|
|
|
Posted - December 21 2013 : 10:29:04 AM
|
Most likely electrical pick up problems or no lubricant.. Something you should know about how to test. Unless you have lots of motors you want to burn out. Never put power to a old engine, you have just gotten !
toptrain
" It's a Heck of a Day " !!!
Edited by - toptrain on December 21 2013 11:06:19 AM
|
|
Country: USA ~
Posts: 7516 ~
Member Since: August 07 2008 ~
Last Visit: October 23 2024
|
Alert Moderator
|
|
|
|
Posted - December 21 2013 : 11:08:50 AM
|
* Ok you have old use engine and it looks great. What do you do. Make something that will hold a engine where you can work on it. wHERE it won't receive additional damage. Make it so it fits large locomotives. At 13 you have a lot of time to acquire other ones. It should be a U shaped wooden box at least 25" long. Sides around 3 " high. Wide enough so a HO engine fits with protective soft packing around it. I won't tell you the with for I don't know what you will use for protective packing. Now you have a project to complete before you check anything.
**Do not make it so the engine fit Snugly!
**If you do your engines will become Ugly !
** You will break off or damage handrails, and detail parts.
** Then you will have other things to fix, and you great locomotive will become something you don't want it to be.
* When you take apart a engine take note of the order of things removed. Where and how they fit into whatever you fix. Do no short cuts ! Replace it the opposite order.
** Now gently pick up your loco. See that you apply no pressure to anything that will break. The engine you have was probably made in the early 1960s. It is one made mostly of plastic. Made at a time when they , the manufactures, thought they knew what they doing, and again thought the plastic was durable and would hold to proper handling. Well some of that turned out to be wrong. So be careful, like you were working with eggs. You have a advantage ! You should see better than most 50 to 70 year olds. Place you engine carefully in you new padded locomotive work station. Your now ready to do something.
So much for this post !
C U later.
toptrain
" It's a Heck of a Day " !!!
Edited by - toptrain on December 21 2013 11:27:00 AM
|
|
Country: USA ~
Posts: 7516 ~
Member Since: August 07 2008 ~
Last Visit: October 23 2024
|
Alert Moderator
|
|
|
|
Posted - December 22 2013 : 10:39:21 AM
|
Any pointers of where to put lubricant? As you mentioned, want to avoid motor burnout.
ArtSkull.com: Graphic Design & Illustration
|
|
Country: USA ~
Posts: 69 ~
Member Since: December 11 2012 ~
Last Visit: January 19 2020
|
Alert Moderator
|
|
|
|
Posted - December 22 2013 : 12:31:11 PM
|
About the engine the quick stuff is clean the pick up wheel lubricate all axels and moving drive parts. On the motor use a needle point to apply just a drop of oil to motor bearings. If possible rotate the drive by hand before putting power to the engine.
On your particular loco to give better info you need to show a photo of the engine with the body where you can look down into it. also a photo of the bottom od loct to show what kind of trucks it has.
frank
toptrain
" It's a Heck of a Day " !!!
|
|
Country: USA ~
Posts: 7516 ~
Member Since: August 07 2008 ~
Last Visit: October 23 2024
|
Alert Moderator
|
|
|
|
Posted - December 23 2013 : 03:17:23 AM
|
The handrails on the Alco 1000 are actually a bit tougher than the later dual drive Mehano locos.
These motors were prone to burnout due to a design flaw. I think they used poor insulators on the armature ends, and the magnet wire was able to short against the steel laminations. I had a Pennsy RS-2 (same motor) circa '71, and it burned up in a week or two.
The only other thing to try is cleaning any brush dust out of the commutator gaps if you haven't done it already, but if you have to kick start it and it only runs erratically, draws high current and stalls, it's a shorted winding.
The Tyco Depot
|
|
Country: USA ~
Posts: 3927 ~
Member Since: June 20 2007 ~
Last Visit: November 19 2015
|
Alert Moderator
|
|
|
|
Posted - January 05 2014 : 1:43:23 PM
|
I'm hoping these pix help show where I am supposed to check wiring and point to add oil. Thanks again for all the help!
ArtSkull.com: Graphic Design & Illustration
|
|
Country: USA ~
Posts: 69 ~
Member Since: December 11 2012 ~
Last Visit: January 19 2020
|
Alert Moderator
|
|
|
|
Posted - January 05 2014 : 2:55:32 PM
|
Here's my suggestions :
Basic maintenance is ALWAYS called for first, so do the cleaning and lubing (sparingly) first, and see if you can get it running better. Cleaning out the grooves between the copper plates is critical if the motor has lots of laps on it. And don't put a "drop" of oil on the bearing, use a needle or other fine piece of metal to put just a tiny amount on the end of the shaft in the bearing, and see what happens. Don't want it soaked! The underside bearing would require removal of the worm gear most likely, and is hard to get to, so do all the other maintenance first, before attempting that , although one of those needle oilers might can get between the worm gear and housing OK. But I'd leave the bottom bearing alone until all else is eliminated.
I had great success with the tie-wrap on the spring arms to the brush arms trick, it really helped power on several AHM motors in diesels I tried it on, as that little spring can put LOTS of force on the brushes, and robs the motor of power. You can also use solid wire ( 24 gauge ), and twist it on there, getting a more infinite adjustment of the tension, and easy to remove and replace as the brushes wear down and needs more tension. Either way, get the cleaning/lubing done first, then try the untension trick to see if you get any more power.
Jerry
" When life throws you bananas...it's easy to slip up"
|
|
Country: USA ~
Posts: 3974 ~
Member Since: January 04 2009 ~
Last Visit: January 11 2019
|
Alert Moderator
|
|
|
|
Posted - January 05 2014 : 5:14:50 PM
|
Thanks Jerry, Nelson & Frank! Once again, I'm in debt to Tyco forum members for pointing the way.
ArtSkull.com: Graphic Design & Illustration
|
|
Country: USA ~
Posts: 69 ~
Member Since: December 11 2012 ~
Last Visit: January 19 2020
|
Alert Moderator
|
|
Home
Forums
Events Calendar
Forum Admins & Mods
Register
