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 Posted - December 15 2013 : 1:40:42 PM
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An Athearn B&O GP9 I painted and decaled from an undecorated piece.
http://tycodepot.com/
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Posted - December 15 2013 : 3:16:15 PM
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| Nice paintwork Jerry. I like the rather stately B & O color scheme. Your model breathes with life.
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Posted - December 15 2013 : 3:22:09 PM
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That's a nice custom job Jerry. I wish I could custom paint and decal like that... I'm all thumbs - I can repair though!
Eric
Edited by - Knights89 on December 15 2013 3:24:14 PM
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Posted - December 15 2013 : 3:42:25 PM
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| Very nice work Jerry. Sharp.
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Posted - December 15 2013 : 4:35:31 PM
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quote:That's a nice custom job Jerry. I wish I could custom paint and decal like that... I'm all thumbs - I can repair though!
Eric
Originally posted by Knights89Â -Â December 15 2013Â :Â 3:22:09 PM
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Yers I agree & I all thumbs to everthing  
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MikeK
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Posted - December 15 2013 : 5:21:55 PM
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That is very nice work, Jerry. I have one coming in that was badly repainted. How do you prep plastic? Do you strip off old paint? If so, how?
Air-brush, spray can or brush?
What paints are recommended for plastic?
What paints are recommended for metal?
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Posted - December 15 2013 : 6:17:54 PM
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quote:That is very nice work, Jerry. I have one coming in that was badly repainted. How do you prep plastic? Do you strip off old paint? If so, how?
Air-brush, spray can or brush?
What paints are recommended for plastic?
What paints are recommended for metal?
Originally posted by MikeKÂ -Â December 15 2013Â :Â 5:21:55 PM
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Thanks mikek - on this one I was fortunate, it was an undecorated shell so no paint to strip! As for stripping that badly repainted one you have coming in, it all depends really on what kind of paint it was painted with. I use 91% alcohol on most of the stuff I strip, if it was painted with acrylic it "usually" comes off no problem after a good long overnight soak. Sometimes it requires more than one night...and sometimes, if the shell is painted with enamel, especially that has had time to cure completely - the alcohol won't touch it.
That's when other methods come in, there are specialized paint strippers for plastic models. Personally I have not had occasion to try them yet, but others here on the site can fill you in on their experience with them I'm sure.
I use both airbrush AND 'rattle' cans when I paint, I think you can get a great result from either. I have a very simple, bottom of the line Paasche airbrush with a Harbor Freight air compressor that does just fine for my purposes. I use mostly Badger Modelflex with the airbrush.
Scalecoat makes very good spray paint in the good old spray can - and available in a lot of railroad colors. They also have a line of paint (Scalecoat I) that's better for metal. Scalecoat II is better for plastic.
I use a assortment of bottled paints for brushing - Floquil, Testor's, Tamiya. Some oil-based, some water clean-up acrylic.
This particular GP9 was done with a Floquil rattle can - I think Dark Blue - unfortunately they aren't making Floquil any more. After it dried completely, I shot it with Future floor wax using the airbrush to give it a nice shiny surface for the decals...and then after that shot it with some Testor's dullcote from a spray can to eliminate the "new" shine. it still looks pretty new for a working locomotive, but I wanted this one to have that look anyway.
Honestly, I would say everyone that models has their own way of doing things, some people use air brush exclusively with oil based paints, some stick to rattle cans....everyone develops their own technique with what they are comfortable with and what works for them.
http://tycodepot.com/
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Posted - December 15 2013 : 7:22:50 PM
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Mantua Mikados camelbacks of the Lehigh Valley.
toptrain
" It's a Heck of a Day " !!!
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Posted - December 15 2013 : 7:42:56 PM
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Jerry, that Geep is gorgeous. I wouldn't have thought that 60's tooling could look so good. The paint job really pops, especially against the hill in the background. The whole scene looks great (and is no doubt making EM-1 drool).
Floquil was the best. R.I.P. 
The Tyco Depot
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MikeK
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Posted - December 15 2013 : 8:06:39 PM
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Thanks, Jerry, for the advice. I think I will look into airbrush from Harbor Freight, a store is nearby. So many times with the rattle can a little too much will come out, and then it is run-city.
When you say soak with alcohol, which evaporates quickly, do you mean submerged overnight? I would think the plastic would melt!
I'll be checking at the hobby store for paint, strippers, and maybe an airbrush set there. Buying something right away always makes for friendly storekeepers, if you know what I mean.
Also, after reading posts on motor repairs, I'm looking at junk computers, vcr players, etc, in a whole new light . I'm a junkman from way back. Plenty at the local thrift store.
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Posted - December 15 2013 : 8:39:32 PM
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quote:Thanks, Jerry, for the advice. I think I will look into airbrush from Harbor Freight, a store is nearby. So many times with the rattle can a little too much will come out, and then it is run-city.
When you say soak with alcohol, which evaporates quickly, do you mean submerged overnight? I would think the plastic would melt!
I'll be checking at the hobby store for paint, strippers, and maybe an airbrush set there. Buying something right away always makes for friendly storekeepers, if you know what I mean.
Originally posted by MikeKÂ -Â December 15 2013Â :Â 8:06:39 PM
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Mikek - if I can give you one more word of wisdom, avoid the harbor freight airbrush. They're OK for air compressors but not air brushs. I got my first airbrush from there, and the experience was almost enough to turn me away from air brushes forever. Get a Paasche or Badger basic air brush, they aren't that expensive, will last you a lifetime, and you can get parts for them if need be. AND you can actually read the instructions.
Alcohol will not melt the plastic - solvents like paint thinner and the like will. What I do is put a piece of foil over the top of the container so there is very little evaporation.
Good luck and keep us updated on your progress 
http://tycodepot.com/
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Posted - December 15 2013 : 9:52:02 PM
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quote: quote:Thanks, Jerry, for the advice. I think I will look into airbrush from Harbor Freight, a store is nearby. So many times with the rattle can a little too much will come out, and then it is run-city.
When you say soak with alcohol, which evaporates quickly, do you mean submerged overnight? I would think the plastic would melt!
I'll be checking at the hobby store for paint, strippers, and maybe an airbrush set there. Buying something right away always makes for friendly storekeepers, if you know what I mean.
Originally posted by MikeKÂ -Â December 15 2013Â :Â 8:06:39 PM
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Mikek - if I can give you one more word of wisdom, avoid the harbor freight airbrush. They're OK for air compressors but not air brushs. I got my first airbrush from there, and the experience was almost enough to turn me away from air brushes forever. Get a Paasche or Badger basic air brush, they aren't that expensive, will last you a lifetime, and you can get parts for them if need be. AND you can actually read the instructions.
Alcohol will not melt the plastic - solvents like paint thinner and the like will. What I do is put a piece of foil over the top of the container so there is very little evaporation.
Good luck and keep us updated on your progress
Originally posted by JNXT 7707Â -Â December 15 2013Â :Â 8:39:32 PM
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Love that B&O diesel and those Lehigh Valley camelbacks! I decided to post one of my locomotives, an EMD SW-1 built from a brass kit in 1979, and painted by the late Robert Ernst of Kansas City when he lived in Knoxville, IL
![]() 
The caption is that these guys are trying to hide from the yardmaster by hiding in #3 track, in a scene reminiscent of an O&W photograph. It's all for naught, though, because the yard clerk is on his way down the lead with a new switchlist
String Bob
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 Posted - December 15 2013 : 9:53:52 PM
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wrong pic String Bob 
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Posted - December 15 2013 : 9:55:54 PM
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quote: quote: quote:Thanks, Jerry, for the advice. I think I will look into airbrush from Harbor Freight, a store is nearby. So many times with the rattle can a little too much will come out, and then it is run-city.
When you say soak with alcohol, which evaporates quickly, do you mean submerged overnight? I would think the plastic would melt!
I'll be checking at the hobby store for paint, strippers, and maybe an airbrush set there. Buying something right away always makes for friendly storekeepers, if you know what I mean.
Originally posted by MikeKÂ -Â December 15 2013Â :Â 8:06:39 PM
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Mikek - if I can give you one more word of wisdom, avoid the harbor freight airbrush. They're OK for air compressors but not air brushs. I got my first airbrush from there, and the experience was almost enough to turn me away from air brushes forever. Get a Paasche or Badger basic air brush, they aren't that expensive, will last you a lifetime, and you can get parts for them if need be. AND you can actually read the instructions.
Alcohol will not melt the plastic - solvents like paint thinner and the like will. What I do is put a piece of foil over the top of the container so there is very little evaporation.
Good luck and keep us updated on your progress
Originally posted by JNXT 7707Â -Â December 15 2013Â :Â 8:39:32 PM
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Love that B&O diesel and those Lehigh Valley camelbacks! I decided to post one of my locomotives, an EMD SW-1 built from a brass kit in 1979, and painted by the late Robert Ernst of Kansas City when he lived in Knoxville, IL
![]()
The caption is that these guys are trying to hide from the yardmaster by hiding in #3 track, in a scene reminiscent of an O&W photograph. It's all for naught, though, because the yard clerk is on his way down the lead with a new switchlist
Originally posted by String boBÂ -Â December 15 2013Â :Â 9:52:02 PM
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Oops! Posted the wrong photo-try this one
![]() 
String Bob
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Posted - December 16 2013 : 09:09:35 AM
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nice locos guys love the b&o paint job,got this after erich sent listing,and much debate with myselfken
as you can see this side was missing its handrail,so in process of making it
Edited by - catfordken on December 16 2013 09:46:56 AM
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Posted - December 16 2013 : 11:03:37 AM
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 I want a loco like that, Ken!
Here I lives in Nebraska & I can't find one??
Something wrong here! 
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Posted - December 16 2013 : 11:21:31 AM
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| sorry to hear that ben,i got 3 now ken
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Posted - December 16 2013 : 3:27:47 PM
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Ken,
Your saddle-tanker 0-6-0 is not familiar to me. Who made that model?
Thanks,
Don
Carpe Manana!
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Posted - December 16 2013 : 4:52:54 PM
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Revell.
Ken, SELL ME ONE I been looking for one as well.
Not my engine but my neighbors LGB Christmas special 0-4-0T I repaired for him. Simple installment of a new rod pin that holds the timing rod onto the eccentric crank. He's got it back and is happily enjoying it once more 
I buy, repair, and collect
http://scvr.weebly.com/
http://seyboldlocomotiveworks.weebly.com/
http://www.youtube.com/user/TheDeputation?feature=watch
Hyde.
Edited by - SCVR66 on December 16 2013 4:54:24 PM
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Posted - December 16 2013 : 11:08:13 PM
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Here we have an Athearn 1022a, an F7B (dummy). I picked it up at a show. I thought it was somehow different with the copper colored truck frames, but it turns out the frame and trucks are from a different unit. The trucks do not turn - the ladders impede them.
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Posted - December 16 2013 : 11:43:18 PM
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quote:...ken
as you can see this side was missing its handrail,so in process of making it
Originally posted by catfordken - December 16 2013 : 09:09:35 AM
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Uh, this loco has its own built-in chug machine... well, at least when I owned one of these about 30 years ago. This is a HEAVY beast.
John
I don't have a one track mind. It depends on the turn-out.
"I love your catenary!"
Is that a power-trip or just another pick-up line?
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Posted - December 17 2013 : 08:14:11 AM
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Snagged this one in a 2-engine lot off Ebay a few weeks ago, my frst streamlined Hudson. Made by Rivarossi, it doesn't run <yet>, the motor won't turn over even with direct power. Some work required. But it looks nice! Didn't get a tender with it either, so will have to look for that. Seeing several auctions for these, most over $50 with the tender, I paid $30 for the two engines I got. We'll see what I can do with it, now that money project F9 is gone.
Jerry
" When life throws you bananas...it's easy to slip up"
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 Posted - December 17 2013 : 08:30:35 AM
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| cool got the tender? I want one
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Posted - December 17 2013 : 08:49:48 AM
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| i hopefully have a brass hudson coming at xmas,roll on xmas ken
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Posted - December 17 2013 : 8:40:19 PM
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| That looks to be quite the machine Jerry. If you get the urge to take a photo of the drive train when you have it apart, that would be fun to look at. Thanks. Barry
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Posted - December 18 2013 : 4:15:34 PM
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quote: quote:...ken
as you can see this side was missing its handrail,so in process of making it
Originally posted by catfordken - December 16 2013 : 09:09:35 AM
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Uh, this loco has its own built-in chug machine... well, at least when I owned one of these about 30 years ago. This is a HEAVY beast.
John
Originally posted by zebrails - December 16 2013 : 11:43:18 PM
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These little locomotives are in a class by themselves. Perfect for an old time suburban service. Here is a photo of the one I posted a couple of weeks ago
![]() 
It isn't the Aristocraft 2-6-0 I was aiming for when I won it on Ebay, but it is a close second
String Bob
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Posted - December 18 2013 : 10:01:29 PM
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A local antique store buy! Mint new in box almost. Had all paper work and handrails in bag. (missing one piece though). Not bad for $12! Hardly see this version:
[URL=http://s1228.photobucket.com/user/jdboomer904/media/067_zps1b146b8e.jpg.html] /tyco/forum/uploaded/Redneck Justin/067_zps1b146b8e.jpg [/URL]
" Heck with counting 'em rivets, TRAINS ARE FOR FUN! Not called the Mad Scientist for nothing either!"
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Posted - December 19 2013 : 01:45:00 AM
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Okay, here's one of my Revell 0-6-0's. I repowered it and added a wiper for the center insulated driver.
Gotta love that 50's artwork. Barry, notice the hobo on the flat.
The Tyco Depot
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Posted - December 19 2013 : 06:22:38 AM
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* Going along with the 0-6-0t type. My Aristo-Craft 0-6-0t lettered for the Pennsylvania Railroad No. 794. As Bob states used for Suburban service. Also The add by Revell show a picture of logging service. Many railroads used them for switchers and a similar 0-6-0t was used by the CNJ around their roundhouse to pull dead engines on and off of the turntable, spotting then in roundhouse stalls or on outside storage and service tracks.
frank
toptrain
" It's a Heck of a Day " !!!
Edited by - toptrain on December 19 2013 06:32:23 AM
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12444
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Posted - December 19 2013 : 5:01:05 PM
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quote:
An Athearn B&O GP9 I painted and decaled from an undecorated piece.
Originally posted by JNXT 7707Â -Â December 15 2013Â :Â 1:40:42 PM
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Nice loco! I like gp7's, gp9's and their SD counterparts.
I'm home schooled, I love to work on cars and anything with an engine and wheels, I love model RR'ing, and listening to Dire Straits.
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Posted - December 20 2013 : 3:12:08 PM
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This is my latest acquisition, my little six!! Funny, when I first joined this site I did not care about steam engines, now I can't get enough of them and it is Jerry and the Big Cat's fault:
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Posted - December 21 2013 : 01:42:22 AM
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Have that same Mantua GN Big Six^ Actually own 3 big sixes and 5 shifters
I'm enjoying my #1 wanted engine. Mantua Conrail shifter  Such a beaut.
I buy, repair, and collect
http://scvr.weebly.com/
http://seyboldlocomotiveworks.weebly.com/
http://www.youtube.com/user/TheDeputation?feature=watch
Hyde.
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Posted - December 21 2013 : 02:27:00 AM
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| Terrific photo of a handsome locomotive and color scheme
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Posted - December 22 2013 : 1:31:02 PM
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| That's a real nice finish on that Conrail Hyde.
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Posted - December 22 2013 : 6:03:03 PM
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I'm sorry, that Conrail A3 is just outright horrifying. One has been sitting at a LHS for years and I cringe every time I walk by it.
--CRC
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Posted - December 22 2013 : 6:44:11 PM
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quote:I'm sorry, that Conrail A3 is just outright horrifying. One has been sitting at a LHS for years and I cringe every time I walk by it.
Originally posted by PRR 4800Â -Â December 22 2013Â :Â 6:03:03 PM
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ORLY?? How much is it?
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Posted - December 22 2013 : 6:49:46 PM
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Thanks everyone!
Oh PRR 4800.........
Come on now, the Mantua D-30 is the uglier version I like the Mantua better one because of its better shade of blue, the fact that its a rare bird (1980-1981 build), and that well it's a mantua
But in the all around looks the A-3 takes the cake.
I buy, repair, and collect
http://scvr.weebly.com/
http://seyboldlocomotiveworks.weebly.com/
http://www.youtube.com/user/TheDeputation?feature=watch
Hyde.
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Posted - December 22 2013 : 10:18:28 PM
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quote:I'm sorry, that Conrail A3 is just outright horrifying. One has been sitting at a LHS for years and I cringe every time I walk by it.
Originally posted by PRR 4800Â -Â December 22 2013Â :Â 6:03:03 PM
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The thing to do to reduce the horror is to repaint it in a more authentic BNSF pumpkin scheme, or perhaps CSX blue and gray.
Carpe Manana!
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