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Posted - August 11 2013 : 11:53:37 AM
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"Jump-starting" this week's LOTW, I put forth a new engine I picked up for $20 at my LTS this past week. I kinda like these broken-nose designs, they're pretty cool. When I saw it laying on the counter at the train store, I asked if it was for sale, owner said Yes. I offered him 20 and he took it. These sell for way higher on Ebay. Drawback is those darn big flanges, won't run on anything but at least Code 100 track. Oh well. Here's my Lima electric engine, I am not sure yet which model it represents. I haven't done any research yet, or not much. If anyone knows, chime in.
Jerry
" When life throws you bananas...it's easy to slip up"
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Posted - August 11 2013 : 1:16:47 PM
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quote:"Jump-starting" this week's LOTW, I put forth a new engine I picked up for $20 at my LTS this past week. I kinda like these broken-nose designs, they're pretty cool. When I saw it laying on the counter at the train store, I asked if it was for sale, owner said Yes. I offered him 20 and he took it. These sell for way higher on Ebay. Drawback is those darn big flanges, won't run on anything but at least Code 100 track. Oh well. Here's my Lima electric engine, I am not sure yet which model it represents. I haven't done any research yet, or not much. If anyone knows, chime in.
Jerry
/tyco/forum/uploaded/amc_gremlin_gt/20130811115309_Lima_electric_engine_LOTW8_.jpg
Originally posted by AMC_Gremlin_GTÂ -Â August 11 2013Â :Â 11:53:37 AM
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Jerry, that's a cool electric loco. Amtrak tested one very similar to it as their X996, but the trucks didn't track very well.
Here is the whole story: http://www.amtrakhistoricalsociety.org/x996.html
/tyco/forum/uploaded/Redwoods/x996a-small.jpg
Amtrak tested a 21000 series loco, and I believe yours is a later 40100 series.
-Thomas
Edited by - Redwoods on August 11 2013 1:17:23 PM
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Posted - August 11 2013 : 3:23:11 PM
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Custom MDC-Roundhouse SSW 4-4-2 #605. My 2nd favorite engine.
I buy, repair, and collect http://scvr.weebly.com/ http://seyboldlocomotiveworks.weebly.com/ http://www.youtube.com/user/TheDeputation?feature=watch Hyde.
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Posted - August 11 2013 : 3:41:49 PM
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I'd like to see one of these running on the track with the overhead wires and such. Must be some kinda crazy to get set-up? Pretty cool. quote:"Jump-starting" this week's LOTW, I put forth a new engine I picked up for $20 at my LTS this past week. I kinda like these broken-nose designs, they're pretty cool. When I saw it laying on the counter at the train store, I asked if it was for sale, owner said Yes. I offered him 20 and he took it. These sell for way higher on Ebay. Drawback is those darn big flanges, won't run on anything but at least Code 100 track. Oh well. Here's my Lima electric engine, I am not sure yet which model it represents. I haven't done any research yet, or not much. If anyone knows, chime in.
Jerry

Originally posted by AMC_Gremlin_GTÂ -Â August 11 2013Â :Â 11:53:37 AM
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Posted - August 11 2013 : 3:45:51 PM
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A Tyco 4-8-0 I just rebuilt. Seems to run pretty well after a couple minutes. What's the deal when you've got an engine that wants to stutter when it's cold, but after a minute or two running, you can start off slow and steady? I use quality lubricants, and not too much? Do you think these Tyco or Mantua engines ever ran great right out of the box? [still need to get after that long motor lead that you see hanging out in front of the tender]
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Posted - August 11 2013 : 3:57:24 PM
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hi jerry yours is as thomas said a 40101 ken http://mmiwakoh.de/Eigene%20Webs/lima-modellbahn/SNCF1%20en.htm instructions http://mmiwakoh.de/Eigene%20Webs/Ersatzteilblaetter/ET1022.pdf
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Posted - August 11 2013 : 3:57:59 PM
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quote: A Tyco 4-8-0 I just rebuilt. Seems to run pretty well after a couple minutes. What's the deal when you've got an engine that wants to stutter when it's cold, but after a minute or two running, you can start off slow and steady? I use quality lubricants, and not too much? Do you think these Tyco or Mantua engines ever ran great right out of the box? [still need to get after that long motor lead that you see hanging out in front of the tender]
Originally posted by Barry - August 11 2013 : 3:45:51 PM
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I own more then 12 operational Mantua Steamers that I repair, maintain, and operate frequently. I use quality lubricant as well and I've never had any of those Mantua's with the exception of my 2-6-6-2, run great straight out of the box or in my case, straight out of the engine house. They usually just need a couple seconds or minutes of back and forward running to be woken up then they are able to crawl and run consistent in most cases. This is just what I've learned over time.
I buy, repair, and collect http://scvr.weebly.com/ http://seyboldlocomotiveworks.weebly.com/ http://www.youtube.com/user/TheDeputation?feature=watch Hyde.
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Posted - August 11 2013 : 5:31:22 PM
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quote:
Thanks, catfordken! That helps a lot!
jerry
" When life throws you bananas...it's easy to slip up"
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Posted - August 11 2013 : 7:29:28 PM
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Thanks Hyde. I was hoping you'd have something to say about how these run. Did you ever try those rare earth magnets Hyde (I may have asked you that before and forgot what you said)? If you did, I'd like to know if you thought they were worth it and if the installation really was simple. The website (Micromark) talks about how you just pull the old magnet out, but it looks to me like they're riveted in?
quote: quote: A Tyco 4-8-0 I just rebuilt. Seems to run pretty well after a couple minutes. What's the deal when you've got an engine that wants to stutter when it's cold, but after a minute or two running, you can start off slow and steady? I use quality lubricants, and not too much? Do you think these Tyco or Mantua engines ever ran great right out of the box? [still need to get after that long motor lead that you see hanging out in front of the tender]
Originally posted by Barry - August 11 2013 : 3:45:51 PM
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I own more then 12 operational Mantua Steamers that I repair, maintain, and operate frequently. I use quality lubricant as well and I've never had any of those Mantua's with the exception of my 2-6-6-2, run great straight out of the box or in my case, straight out of the engine house. They usually just need a couple seconds or minutes of back and forward running to be woken up then they are able to crawl and run consistent in most cases. This is just what I've learned over time.
Originally posted by SCVR66Â -Â August 11 2013Â :Â 3:57:59 PM
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Posted - August 11 2013 : 8:03:23 PM
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my ever faithful proto frisco love it ken
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Posted - August 11 2013 : 8:03:46 PM
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This was a bit of an impulse buy. I saw it, fell in love and bought it.
If you are not having fun, you are not doing it right.
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Posted - August 11 2013 : 8:09:43 PM
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Ken, that steamer has a lot of character! I like it! 
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Posted - August 11 2013 : 8:13:41 PM
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thats why i love it cheez,sweet runner but dcc only,ken
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Posted - August 11 2013 : 8:36:41 PM
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Are DCC engines not made to be backwards compatible with DC?
Here's my contribution, a Lima CP Rail FP45.
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Posted - August 11 2013 : 8:39:24 PM
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Here is my 027 Lionel Sky Blue GN U36B loco
 Belly tank is missing but I did get the whole set cheap  Yes the set is for sale
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Posted - August 11 2013 : 9:00:44 PM
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hi cheez,the ones for general release are,but this a one off done for walthers in the early days of dcc,its been hard wired for dcc only,it was done by ken patterson,who does a lot for mags etc,ken
Edited by - catfordken on August 11 2013 9:02:10 PM
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Posted - August 11 2013 : 9:48:16 PM
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quote:Thanks Hyde. I was hoping you'd have something to say about how these run. Did you ever try those rare earth magnets Hyde (I may have asked you that before and forgot what you said)? If you did, I'd like to know if you thought they were worth it and if the installation really was simple. The website (Micromark) talks about how you just pull the old magnet out, but it looks to me like they're riveted in?
quote: quote: A Tyco 4-8-0 I just rebuilt. Seems to run pretty well after a couple minutes. What's the deal when you've got an engine that wants to stutter when it's cold, but after a minute or two running, you can start off slow and steady? I use quality lubricants, and not too much? Do you think these Tyco or Mantua engines ever ran great right out of the box? [still need to get after that long motor lead that you see hanging out in front of the tender]
Originally posted by Barry - August 11 2013 : 3:45:51 PM
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I own more then 12 operational Mantua Steamers that I repair, maintain, and operate frequently. I use quality lubricant as well and I've never had any of those Mantua's with the exception of my 2-6-6-2, run great straight out of the box or in my case, straight out of the engine house. They usually just need a couple seconds or minutes of back and forward running to be woken up then they are able to crawl and run consistent in most cases. This is just what I've learned over time.
Originally posted by SCVR66Â -Â August 11 2013Â :Â 3:57:59 PM
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Originally posted by Barry - August 11 2013 : 7:29:28 PM
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Hey Barry! I have not used the magnets but many people on here have. While there are and have been topics on here about it i'm sure a fresh question start wouldn't hurt. Everything I know about them came from the good people on here.
I buy, repair, and collect http://scvr.weebly.com/ http://seyboldlocomotiveworks.weebly.com/ http://www.youtube.com/user/TheDeputation?feature=watch Hyde.
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Posted - August 11 2013 : 10:24:55 PM
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Barry, I think I own literally 2 of EVERY Mantua and or TYCO steamer made, once owned all of them made, (sold a couple that I regret selling now) And will say, they all run GREAT right out of the box, NEW, NOT used, if bought used, they will need the old oil and grease removed and new added.....Reason? The factory stuff turned into a caked up soap type thing, that would soften up after a little running heat was generated but that I know gets old pretty fast so...Labelle oil is good, used LIGHTLY, do not over do it, in gearboxes, white lithium marine grease is good (some other members have their own lubricants as well).
When ANY locomotive is bought, brand new, it should get at least 1/2 hour run time in the forwards motion, with NO train in tow, and then 1/2 hour of run time in reverse, with NO train in tow....This is known as a "Break-in" period......You want to do this "break-in" half hour either direction at variable speeds, not full blast and not all the same speed for the whole amount of time, this will make all the moving parts "seat" as merely a lot of times, they are "bench tested" at the factory, (Just to see if they "run"), and no real break in time has been put on any of the parts.....
Jerry, thats an AWESOME Electric! Who made that one? INTERSTING to say the least!
Ken, Is that a Proto-2000 0-6-0, or the 0-8-0? And is it Proto-2000 at all (Almost looks to be brass!)
AWESOME model, none-the-less!
Ray, I can see why you fell in love with the Utah Railway F-45.....Athearn I would suppose with all that detail! NICELY done Athearn!
~John
Many have tried to, and failed, ya just can't repair stupid... 
Do NOT try to Idiot-Proof anything!!!! God, will simply create a better......IDIOT!
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Posted - August 11 2013 : 10:29:17 PM
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So, before I go, I guess I ought to add my own LOTW huh? 
So here we go.....


Picked up my first yard sale trip on a weekend after my surgery.....Got lucky....Didn't think I was gonna find crap that Saturday with the wife, she seemed to have found everything and I would have gone home with nothing more then a fist fulla dollars, and a palm sander, that needs a new sand paper base put on it thats from Dewalt.....
Whole day? Got the DD-40 and a Dewalt palm sander for a whoppin' $15.00 if I remember correctly!!!!
~John
Many have tried to, and failed, ya just can't repair stupid... 
Do NOT try to Idiot-Proof anything!!!! God, will simply create a better......IDIOT!
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Posted - August 12 2013 : 01:17:15 AM
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hi john its a proto 2000 heritage 0-6-0,but as can be seen by photo below,made to look more real ken
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Posted - August 12 2013 : 01:33:29 AM
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Ken, That model of yours come with the cab curtains? I would LOVE to find a detail of those for on my B&O EM-1!!!!!!
I tell ya, you almost had me fooled with the details from it being a Proto-2000 to a brass model, WOW!
Did you or someone else, weather it? Its difficult to say from the pictures!
~John
Many have tried to, and failed, ya just can't repair stupid... 
Do NOT try to Idiot-Proof anything!!!! God, will simply create a better......IDIOT!
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Posted - August 12 2013 : 01:39:11 AM
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quote:hi cheez,the ones for general release are,but this a one off done for walthers in the early days of dcc,its been hard wired for dcc only,it was done by ken patterson,who does a lot for mags etc,ken

Originally posted by catfordken - August 11 2013 : 9:00:44 PM
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Ken, Is that your station in the background? I ask as it looks AWESOME of what can be seen of it, who makes that?!!!!!!
~John
Many have tried to, and failed, ya just can't repair stupid... 
Do NOT try to Idiot-Proof anything!!!! God, will simply create a better......IDIOT!
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Posted - August 12 2013 : 09:56:41 AM
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hi john,its a photo of my actual loco as used in photo shoot for walthers,ken
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Posted - August 12 2013 : 1:04:09 PM
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Okay, After some good-natured ribbing about the 'weathered' condition of my last project (Tyco Shifter), I'm posting a couple of my 'clean' ones! First is another shifter that I built from an old Tyco Kit. I painted and lettered it for the Orient (KCM&O), which actually had 0-4-0's (although I'm sure not this kind). Second is my beast--which I did not build--A Bowser Pennsy T1. It's beautiful. Supposedly built by a man from a large Pennsy model rr. club who has since passed. I believe I bought it from the club.


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Posted - August 12 2013 : 2:06:08 PM
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Adams, That's a NICE T-1.....Have you had him on the rails and seen it run? Looks like it do a GREAT job, but Bowser's if not assembled right can be fussy when run!
~John
Many have tried to, and failed, ya just can't repair stupid... 
Do NOT try to Idiot-Proof anything!!!! God, will simply create a better......IDIOT!
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Posted - August 12 2013 : 2:39:00 PM
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Oh, yes, it runs very well at all speeds. If I want to be super-critical, at faster speeds, the back end (cab) fish-tails a bit, but not too bad. I have the drive tube connecting the two motors. If I disconnect it, the little wobble may stop.
Edited by - Adams on August 12 2013 2:44:48 PM
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Posted - August 12 2013 : 6:36:41 PM
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I'm not to big on the PRR but that's a nice locomotive!
~John
Many have tried to, and failed, ya just can't repair stupid... 
Do NOT try to Idiot-Proof anything!!!! God, will simply create a better......IDIOT!
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Posted - August 13 2013 : 11:26:32 PM
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quote: A Tyco 4-8-0 I just rebuilt. Seems to run pretty well after a couple minutes. What's the deal when you've got an engine that wants to stutter when it's cold, but after a minute or two running, you can start off slow and steady? I use quality lubricants, and not too much? Do you think these Tyco or Mantua engines ever ran great right out of the box? [still need to get after that long motor lead that you see hanging out in front of the tender]
Originally posted by Barry - August 11 2013 : 3:45:51 PM
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Barry,
Tyco steamers are notorious for poor contact between the trucks and tender frame that will cause just what you describe. Polish the mating surfaces and add a drop of conductive lube to each.
If the motor is slow and spongy at first but speeds up after it gets warm, it's probably due to oily brushes. Remove the brushes and soak them in solvent, then clean the commutator with 90% alcohol, and use a toothpick or a thin piece of wire to removes gunk from between the commutator segments. If that an issue, it should be more responsive afterwards.
The Tyco Depot
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Posted - August 14 2013 : 12:19:12 AM
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Thanks Nelson. I have polished (I thought I did good) the truck mounting surface and the trucks where they contact. I have not tried the conductive lube. I agree that trucks are likely a big issue. When I replaced trucks on a 4-6-0, there was a significant improvement. Must have something to do with the way the trucks are constructed. I do also always polish and clean the armature, though I have been shy of "soaking" the brushes; thinking it could degrade the carbon? What solvent do you use to clean the brushes?quote: quote: A Tyco 4-8-0 I just rebuilt. Seems to run pretty well after a couple minutes. What's the deal when you've got an engine that wants to stutter when it's cold, but after a minute or two running, you can start off slow and steady? I use quality lubricants, and not too much? Do you think these Tyco or Mantua engines ever ran great right out of the box? [still need to get after that long motor lead that you see hanging out in front of the tender]
Originally posted by Barry - August 11 2013 : 3:45:51 PM
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Barry,
Tyco steamers are notorious for poor contact between the trucks and tender frame that will cause just what you describe. Polish the mating surfaces and add a drop of conductive lube to each.
If the motor is slow and spongy at first but speeds up after it gets warm, it's probably due to oily brushes. Remove the brushes and soak them in solvent, then clean the commutator with 90% alcohol, and use a toothpick or a thin piece of wire to removes gunk from between the commutator segments. If that an issue, it should be more responsive afterwards.
Originally posted by NickelPlate759Â -Â August 13 2013Â :Â 11:26:32 PM
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Posted - August 14 2013 : 01:00:07 AM
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Don't worry about harming the brushes. Anything from 90% alcohol to carburetor cleaner or lacquer thinner is fine. The latter are actually better solvents and strip out oils better than alcohol can.
Occasionally you'll get squeaky or chattering brushes when they are stripped clean, but that's usually in motors where the brush holders aren't snug (like Athearn's gold motors), so the brushes can reposition or vibrate. Some people use conductive lube or oil to quiet them down, but in small motors like these that usually causes other problems in the long run.
The Tyco Depot
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Posted - August 14 2013 : 01:18:13 AM
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quote:
Ben, You know which GE unit that is? It resembles the U18B BUT, I'm not sure.......Be a good unit, does it run, do you know?
~John
Many have tried to, and failed, ya just can't repair stupid... 
Do NOT try to Idiot-Proof anything!!!! God, will simply create a better......IDIOT!
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Posted - August 14 2013 : 01:20:11 AM
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quote:Don't worry about harming the brushes. Anything from 90% alcohol to carburetor cleaner or lacquer thinner is fine. The latter are actually better solvents and strip out oils better than alcohol can.
Occasionally you'll get squeaky or chattering brushes when they are stripped clean, but that's usually in motors where the brush holders aren't snug (like Athearn's gold motors), so the brushes can reposition or vibrate. Some people use conductive lube or oil to quiet them down, but in small motors like these that usually causes other problems in the long run.
Originally posted by NickelPlate759Â -Â August 14 2013Â :Â 01:00:07 AM
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Nelson, Conductive lube, that just sounds bad! what type and made by who? Interesting theory!
~John
Many have tried to, and failed, ya just can't repair stupid... 
Do NOT try to Idiot-Proof anything!!!! God, will simply create a better......IDIOT!
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Posted - August 14 2013 : 12:43:07 PM
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EM-1 - I SAID its a U36B Locomotive!  http://www.ho-scaletrains.net/lionelo271970slocoresource/id218.html Planning on getting loco & caboose tested soon
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Posted - August 14 2013 : 2:37:23 PM
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Lionel says its a U36, but it looks awefully short for a U36B.....They were longer locomotives so.....That why I said it looks like a U18B....
Ohh you know what? I am forgetting something, we ARE talking Lionel, known for making loco's "shorter" to be semi-scale.....That explains it! Which would be why I called off the U18B.....As the U18B was the shortest of the GE Universal units.....Which, Lionel used to have them run on different track, curvature.....0-31, and even as low as 0-27....NOW having 0-72......Its kinda silly to have a "bulldog" U36B........
~John
Many have tried to, and failed, ya just can't repair stupid... 
Do NOT try to Idiot-Proof anything!!!! God, will simply create a better......IDIOT!
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Posted - August 14 2013 : 7:30:56 PM
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quote:
Nelson, Conductive lube, that just sounds bad! what type and made by who? Interesting theory!
Originally posted by EM-1Â -Â August 14 2013Â :Â 01:20:11 AM
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John, CRC's 2-26 is made for lubricating brushes on industrial motors, and is pretty thin. The rule of thumb is the larger the motor, the better it will handle conductive lube on the brushes. The motors in my AF S scale locos run better with it, for instance, but for HO it would only a last resort, and even then only on open frame motors so you can easily clean them if it gums them up. It's an absolute no-no for can motors, since they are sealed and the commutators are very small and foul easily. I've had to pry open too many just for a little oil that migrated off the rear bearing.
The Tyco Depot
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Posted - August 14 2013 : 10:38:34 PM
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John,
Yes its an Athearn Genesis with Tsunami sound.
If you are not having fun, you are not doing it right.
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Posted - August 15 2013 : 02:49:32 AM
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Nelson, That's an interesting thing, conductive lube.....I wonder just how well that might be as a drop to just a bearing? Hmmmm.....
Ray, Athearn did a good job on detailing that one, no doubt about it!
~John
Many have tried to, and failed, ya just can't repair stupid... 
Do NOT try to Idiot-Proof anything!!!! God, will simply create a better......IDIOT!
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Posted - August 15 2013 : 3:15:20 PM
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quote:Are DCC engines not made to be backwards compatible with DC?
Here's my contribution, a Lima CP Rail FP45.

Originally posted by DaCheez - August 11 2013 : 8:36:41 PM
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I'll add another Lima CN/VIA to DaCheez's post...
/tyco/forum/uploaded/mike/20130815151351_SAM_0970.JPG
/tyco/forum/uploaded/mike/20130815151416_SAM_0971.JPG
Mike Ps. I have found a couple of Lima Via cars to go with it.
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Posted - August 15 2013 : 11:11:05 PM
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Very nice, Mike! I have that set somewhere as well.
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