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"Jump-starting" this week's LOTW, I put forth a new engine I picked up for $20 at my LTS this past week. I kinda like these broken-nose designs, they're pretty cool. When I saw it laying on the counter at the train store, I asked if it was for sale, owner said Yes. I offered him 20 and he took it. These sell for way higher on Ebay. Drawback is those darn big flanges, won't run on anything but at least Code 100 track. Oh well. Here's my Lima electric engine, I am not sure yet which model it represents. I haven't done any research yet, or not much. If anyone knows, chime in. Jerry /tyco/forum/uploaded/amc_gremlin_gt/20130811115309_Lima_electric_engine_LOTW8_.jpg Originally posted by AMC_Gremlin_GT - August 11 2013 :  11:53:37 AM

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"Jump-starting" this week's LOTW, I put forth a new engine I picked up for $20 at my LTS this past week. I kinda like these broken-nose designs, they're pretty cool. When I saw it laying on the counter at the train store, I asked if it was for sale, owner said Yes. I offered him 20 and he took it. These sell for way higher on Ebay. Drawback is those darn big flanges, won't run on anything but at least Code 100 track. Oh well. Here's my Lima electric engine, I am not sure yet which model it represents. I haven't done any research yet, or not much. If anyone knows, chime in. Jerry Originally posted by AMC_Gremlin_GT - August 11 2013 :  11:53:37 AM

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A Tyco 4-8-0 I just rebuilt. Seems to run pretty well after a couple minutes. What's the deal when you've got an engine that wants to stutter when it's cold, but after a minute or two running, you can start off slow and steady? I use quality lubricants, and not too much? Do you think these Tyco or Mantua engines ever ran great right out of the box? [still need to get after that long motor lead that you see hanging out in front of the tender] Originally posted by Barry - August 11 2013 :  3:45:51 PM

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hi jerry yours is as thomas said a 40101 ken http://mmiwakoh.de/Eigene%20Webs/lima-modellbahn/SNCF1%20en.htm Originally posted by catfordken - August 11 2013 :  3:57:24 PM

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quote: A Tyco 4-8-0 I just rebuilt. Seems to run pretty well after a couple minutes. What's the deal when you've got an engine that wants to stutter when it's cold, but after a minute or two running, you can start off slow and steady? I use quality lubricants, and not too much? Do you think these Tyco or Mantua engines ever ran great right out of the box? [still need to get after that long motor lead that you see hanging out in front of the tender] Originally posted by Barry - August 11 2013 :  3:45:51 PM I own more then 12 operational Mantua Steamers that I repair, maintain, and operate frequently. I use quality lubricant as well and I've never had any of those Mantua's with the exception of my 2-6-6-2, run great straight out of the box or in my case, straight out of the engine house. They usually just need a couple seconds or minutes of back and forward running to be woken up then they are able to crawl and run consistent in most cases. This is just what I've learned over time. Originally posted by SCVR66 - August 11 2013 :  3:57:59 PM

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Thanks Hyde. I was hoping you'd have something to say about how these run. Did you ever try those rare earth magnets Hyde (I may have asked you that before and forgot what you said)? If you did, I'd like to know if you thought they were worth it and if the installation really was simple. The website (Micromark) talks about how you just pull the old magnet out, but it looks to me like they're riveted in? quote: quote: A Tyco 4-8-0 I just rebuilt. Seems to run pretty well after a couple minutes. What's the deal when you've got an engine that wants to stutter when it's cold, but after a minute or two running, you can start off slow and steady? I use quality lubricants, and not too much? Do you think these Tyco or Mantua engines ever ran great right out of the box? [still need to get after that long motor lead that you see hanging out in front of the tender] Originally posted by Barry - August 11 2013 :  3:45:51 PM I own more then 12 operational Mantua Steamers that I repair, maintain, and operate frequently. I use quality lubricant as well and I've never had any of those Mantua's with the exception of my 2-6-6-2, run great straight out of the box or in my case, straight out of the engine house. They usually just need a couple seconds or minutes of back and forward running to be woken up then they are able to crawl and run consistent in most cases. This is just what I've learned over time. Originally posted by SCVR66 - August 11 2013 :  3:57:59 PM Originally posted by Barry - August 11 2013 :  7:29:28 PM

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hi cheez,the ones for general release are,but this a one off done for walthers in the early days of dcc,its been hard wired for dcc only,it was done by ken patterson,who does a lot for mags etc,ken Originally posted by catfordken - August 11 2013 :  9:00:44 PM

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A Tyco 4-8-0 I just rebuilt. Seems to run pretty well after a couple minutes. What's the deal when you've got an engine that wants to stutter when it's cold, but after a minute or two running, you can start off slow and steady? I use quality lubricants, and not too much? Do you think these Tyco or Mantua engines ever ran great right out of the box? [still need to get after that long motor lead that you see hanging out in front of the tender] Originally posted by Barry - August 11 2013 :  3:45:51 PM

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quote: A Tyco 4-8-0 I just rebuilt. Seems to run pretty well after a couple minutes. What's the deal when you've got an engine that wants to stutter when it's cold, but after a minute or two running, you can start off slow and steady? I use quality lubricants, and not too much? Do you think these Tyco or Mantua engines ever ran great right out of the box? [still need to get after that long motor lead that you see hanging out in front of the tender] Originally posted by Barry - August 11 2013 :  3:45:51 PM Barry, Tyco steamers are notorious for poor contact between the trucks and tender frame that will cause just what you describe. Polish the mating surfaces and add a drop of conductive lube to each. If the motor is slow and spongy at first but speeds up after it gets warm, it's probably due to oily brushes. Remove the brushes and soak them in solvent, then clean the commutator with 90% alcohol, and use a toothpick or a thin piece of wire to removes gunk from between the commutator segments. If that an issue, it should be more responsive afterwards. Originally posted by NickelPlate759 - August 13 2013 :  11:26:32 PM

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Here is my 027 Lionel Sky Blue GN U36B loco Belly tank is missing but I did get the whole set cheap Yes the set is for sale Originally posted by microbusss - August 11 2013 :  8:39:24 PM

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Don't worry about harming the brushes. Anything from 90% alcohol to carburetor cleaner or lacquer thinner is fine. The latter are actually better solvents and strip out oils better than alcohol can. Occasionally you'll get squeaky or chattering brushes when they are stripped clean, but that's usually in motors where the brush holders aren't snug (like Athearn's gold motors), so the brushes can reposition or vibrate. Some people use conductive lube or oil to quiet them down, but in small motors like these that usually causes other problems in the long run. Originally posted by NickelPlate759 - August 14 2013 :  01:00:07 AM

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Nelson, Conductive lube, that just sounds bad! what type and made by who? Interesting theory! Originally posted by EM-1 - August 14 2013 :  01:20:11 AM

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Are DCC engines not made to be backwards compatible with DC? Here's my contribution, a Lima CP Rail FP45. Originally posted by DaCheez - August 11 2013 :  8:36:41 PM