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 Posted - March 31 2013 : 2:04:06 PM
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I have a Varney Casey Jones 4-6-0 with a Japanese Pittman style motor that seems to be fried! I remember the bench test and the motor would get purty hot after everything was checked out. I just wonder from the lack of no oil (axle shafts has a little non-pitted rust). What's my options? I thought of doing a remotor with a flat can. What's a good size motor? I know NWSL just released a kit for the Lil' Joe, just no idea what is being used.
" Heck with counting 'em rivets, TRAINS ARE FOR FUN! Not called the Mad Scientist for nothing either!"
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Posted - April 01 2013 : 2:00:09 PM
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| Bowser has nothing? They got all the tooling and sold these engines for a long time.
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Posted - April 01 2013 : 5:04:51 PM
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Source for motor, you will have to build a motor mount.
http://www.jameco.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Product_10001_10001_231732_-1
Regards
John
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Another mode of accumulating power arises from lifting a weight and then allowing it to fall.
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Posted - April 01 2013 : 10:40:31 PM
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Is the motor any good and what's the metric measurement?
" Heck with counting 'em rivets, TRAINS ARE FOR FUN! Not called the Mad Scientist for nothing either!"
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Posted - April 02 2013 : 10:36:30 AM
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A friend of mine helped re-motor a AHM 2-8-2 with a motor similar to this. It was the same frame, but had a higher RPM(9800). This is a Nichibo PC-130SF-09480-R. I have used Jameco motors with success. I will usually buy a couple and run them on 12 volts for 30 minutes in both directions. This will allow for a quality check. Here is a Ebay link with better pictures
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Nichibo-PC-130-Motor-12V-DC-4800-RPM-/280671776777
You will need mounting screws and will need to build a mounting bracket. The Jameco link includes a link for a PDF specification sheet.
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Posted - April 02 2013 : 12:01:29 PM
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Thanks JRG! Now to buy one, make a bracket and so on. Now to make a adapter and shaft for it to reach the drive gear. Did it do well in the Rivarossi Mike's?
" Heck with counting 'em rivets, TRAINS ARE FOR FUN! Not called the Mad Scientist for nothing either!"
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Posted - April 02 2013 : 2:44:30 PM
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The other motor did fine. I gave the engine to my son-in law, so I do not have a a longevity report on this engine. He packed it away soon after the rebuild. The screw size is on the spec sheet, make sure the length is short and does not bind the armature. Good luck on the project. Remember to test the motors first before starting the modifications.
Regards
John
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Posted - April 02 2013 : 4:39:54 PM
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Bowser 8980 motor with worm for Casey Jones - if still in stock, $35.
http://bowser-trains.com/Prices/Bowser%20HO%20Parts%20Prices.htm
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Posted - April 02 2013 : 10:38:59 PM
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Is it. Is it a open frame motor?
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Posted - April 03 2013 : 9:32:55 PM
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quote:Is it. Is it a open frame motor?
Originally posted by Redneck Justin - April 02 2013 : 10:38:59 PM
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It's a DC-71, so yes, it is open frame. They're really good ones, and run as well as a can, but will draw a bit more current. Too pricey tho; you could get a good quality can for that price.
John, I'll second those Nichibo motors that Denny (I think) originally recommended on the Repower & Regear group. Slower and quieter than the Mabuchi FK-130's I've been using, but the seller has raised the price twice since I bought mine.
Have you tried that Jameco motor? I wonder how they compare.
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Posted - April 03 2013 : 9:51:37 PM
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The reason for the high price is Bowser makes those motors themselves, or did, here in the USA. Right now, all of that older stuff is out of production - it's kind of ironic actually, other than the newer Bowser plastic kits, Bowser basically is everything Stewart at this point.
The only reason I suggested that motor is it is the motor for that engine, as last produced by Bowser - it will go right on with no modifications needed.
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Posted - April 03 2013 : 10:32:55 PM
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quote:
The only reason I suggested that motor is it is the motor for that engine, as last produced by Bowser - it will go right on with no modifications needed.
Originally posted by lvrr325 - April 03 2013 : 9:51:37 PM
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True, a can motor will require a rigid mount since there's no gearbox.
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Posted - April 04 2013 : 09:35:23 AM
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Nelson,
The Jameco motor is a Nichibo, it is in the same frame as we used on the Mikido [2-8-2]. The Mikido Motor was a higher RPM. Jameco no longer stocks the faster motor.
My friend and I have used a few motors from Jameco. We test them for 30 minutes in each direction. Only a couple of their motor types failed by getting very hot or having vibration. We have not had problems with the Nichibo motors. We do this with the high dollar hobby motors, and have found that a few of them don't pass.
We have used motors that are rated 6 volts or above and we try to limit the 12VDC no load current draw to .25A or 250mA. The low current is important for DCC operation
I like Jameco motors because they are cheap, and in most cases have a specification sheet online. I always buy two and that way I have a spare for the future. I have noticed that the catalog information has some errors, so I try to use the specifications from the supplied PDF files.
My friend is the re-motor guy, I usually just find the motor and the parts.
Regards,
John
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Posted - April 05 2013 : 8:50:41 PM
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Thanks for that confirmation, John. I didn't even notice the identical model number. Based on their cheapest shipping rate it looks like there's a slight price advantage buying them through Jameco. When I bought them from MOPS back in February they were only $16.50 for 5 with free shipping.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/5-X-Nichibo-PC-130-Motors-12V-DC-4800-RPM-PC-130SF-09480-/281081614453
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Posted - November 20 2017 : 8:10:02 PM
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I found this motor just runs a little wide, could you ssay a few words /share a pic on how to build a motor mount? thanks!
quote:
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