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 Posted - December 01 2008 : 3:30:49 PM
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I was just wondering if anyone has one of these. I do not plan on buying one, but I have considered it.
Do they run very well? Can they pull much?
I realize they're pretty cheap, but maybe somebody has some positive (or negative) feedback?
Thanks in advance.
    
- Matt -
Edited by - MM 1498 on January 02 2009 8:46:50 PM
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 Posted - December 01 2008 : 5:33:04 PM
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We have 11 IHC locomotives 2 steam 2 GG1s 7 diesels.
They all run smooth and quiet.
The thing that I like best is NO traction tires !!! if the train is to long
you have to put on another loco...just like the real ones.
BT
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Posted - December 01 2008 : 9:53:49 PM
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Great point BT...
Mike
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Posted - December 01 2008 : 10:16:29 PM
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I got one for $5 at a train show, not expecting much of it... and boy was I ever surprised. They are really very nice! The chassis is pitifully flimsy, and a bit of a lightweight, BUT the motor and drivetrain is smooth and quiet. All-wheel electric AND drive IIRC, and will out-haul any Tyco by a country mile. Well worth picking up, especially to repower some of the Tyco SD24's.
Actually, if they have one weak spot, it's that the paint jobs suck; Tyco's were much better. But the performance is amazing for the price.
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Posted - December 02 2008 : 12:20:54 AM
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You can reduce the speed of them by about half by substituting Atlas/Kato worms for the double-lead worms Mehano uses. I did that on an AHM GP18, and between that and a better motor it really crawls. 
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Posted - December 02 2008 : 12:43:07 AM
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| I have 2 of the SD24s. Like GIC stated, they are very light. You can improve pulling power by adding several ounces of ballast. This also helps with electrical pick up. The ones I have only pick up current on 8 wheels. But that is plenty and much better then Tycos do! Another addition you can make is to add a flywheel or two.
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Posted - December 02 2008 : 12:58:00 AM
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Don't they come with flywheels, Hypop? 
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Posted - December 02 2008 : 3:08:41 PM
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That's a negative on the flywheels. I have 2 that I bought from Walthers, and neither has flies. No flies shown in the parts diagram either. Possible that they added a fly or two on later runs?
Fly wheels seem to be an after thought for IHC diesels. The SD35 has a pair of flies. The C628 has a single fly. The C430, C415, and SD24 lack flies all together. The motor is the same on all those locos though. And that is good as the motor is smooth and strong. And to think, its a 3 pole with straight windings!
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Posted - December 02 2008 : 3:24:23 PM
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Hmm maybe I'll see if I can get one some time. I'd probably go for the Santa Fe one.
Gotta love the zebra stripes!
- Matt -
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Posted - December 02 2008 : 11:22:23 PM
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quote:he motor is the same on all those locos though. And that is good as the motor is smooth and strong. And to think, its a 3 pole with straight windings!
Originally posted by Hypoponera-December 02 2008: 3:08:41 PM
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I know, but it is possible to make 3 pole motors that don't cog. Mabuchi makes nothing but motors, and they know how to design them. I just pulled a Sagami out of a steamer in favor of one of the motors Mehano used in their GG1's. Much lower speed, and a lot of torque.
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Posted - December 03 2008 : 12:23:14 AM
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Yep, I have replaced big name motors with those Mabuchis as well. In fact, that Mabuchi is my prefered repowering motor. I managed to pick up a dozen motors on ebay a few months ago. It has had no problem running my 16+ oz SD35s. So very strong indeed!
I rechecked several locos, and have found that motor in several other makers locos. Walthers GP9m and FA/B use it. So does/did the late production GP20 and F-unit by Mantua.
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Posted - December 03 2008 : 01:09:33 AM
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The FK-130 is an excellent motor as well, but has a smaller profile than those larger cans. I'm glad I picked up a bunch a few years back when All Electronics had them. I've put them in a AHM/Kader 0-6-0T, and old C-Liner (totally silent), and the AHM Century Alco. Bachmann uses them in most of their revised standard line, and first used them in their Spectrum 2-8-0 that everyone raves about.
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Posted - December 03 2008 : 09:31:46 AM
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| I've managed to pick up a handfull of those FK-130s as well. They are great for those Mehano single power truck designs. I've dropped it into an LL RS-11 and C415. Have yet to try it in a C-Liner as all mine are later production units with all wheel drive.
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Posted - December 03 2008 : 11:45:46 AM
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quote:I've managed to pick up a handfull of those FK-130s as well. They are great for those Mehano single power truck designs. I've dropped it into an LL RS-11 and C415. Have yet to try it in a C-Liner as all mine are later production units with all wheel drive.
Originally posted by Hypoponera-December 03 2008: 09:31:46 AM
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I have done the same and used up 20 of the FK-130s in a hurry. I put them in the dual drive locos as well.
I need to find a good deal on those Atlas/Kato worms. I regeared a few of mine and it does make a world of difference.
Ray
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Posted - December 03 2008 : 3:55:32 PM
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I put an FK-130 in an AHM Alco S2 (or S4?). What a difference. It will crawl slower than you can perceive, and pulls stumps with good traction tires.
Here's an Atlas/Kato worm in a GE Center Cab.
I got them from an eBay seller, and he said the were for Alcos. I assume these are the same. Ho Alco Worm & Shaft
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Edited by - NickelPlate759 on December 03 2008 3:56:17 PM
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Posted - December 03 2008 : 11:40:45 PM
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Hey Nelson,
What are all those metal shavings from? Looks like that magnet does a great job cleaning off the rails! That is one of the earlier versions of the Alco switcher from Mehano. Mine is a later production run that has the motor mounted above the fuel tank with a shaft leading to a standard, geared truck. Oddly, it still powers only the rear truck. I replaced the original motor with a beautiful Cannon single shaft motor.
Has anyone tried to replace the original Mehano worm with an Athearn? I realize it may not be as dramatic of an improvement, but should help some, cost less, and be easier to get. Though it would require carefully drilling out the original plastic worm bearings to fit the larger Athearn shaft.
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Posted - December 04 2008 : 12:42:37 AM
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I've never tried an Athearn worm to see if they have the same tooth spacing. These are a good bit larger.
You're not seeing metal shavings on the motor. That's just a thin piece of foam I used as a shim to correct the gear mesh.  The gearing was actually a little noisy with the motor's shaft dead center, but quieted down when ground out the rear wall a bit and shifted it towards the back a few thousandths. The gearing in these trucks (and in the C-Liners with the 3 pole motor) is actually very good, as this motor reduces the top speed dramatically. It's the original motors that give them the high speed. The motor retainer is a paperclip I bent to shape.
Here's a shot of the truck with the bearing removed and the bottom of the motor housing ground flat. I had to widen the motor opening carefully so that I didn't lose the tabs that lock it into the chassis.
I also gave it all-wheel pickup with some spare truck wipers I had on hand, and some small washer head screws I salvaged from an old piece of electronics.
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Edited by - NickelPlate759 on December 04 2008 12:51:17 AM
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Posted - January 02 2009 : 8:46:26 PM
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Well, now I know the drawbacks to the IHC SD24 are the light weight and flimsy frame.
I'm also a bit curious about the Model Power RS-2...looks like it could be better than forking over $100+ for a Proto one.
Is the Model Power RS-2 any good?
- Matt -
Edited by - MM 1498 on January 02 2009 8:47:03 PM
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Posted - January 02 2009 : 9:05:25 PM
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It's not nearly as nice as the P1K. Look at the price at Trainworld.
http://www.trainworld.com/lifelike/lifelike_proto.htm
You may even find better deals than that if you do some comparison shopping through Google, or watch eBay. I think the Model Power unit still has the 3 pole Mehano motor, and the example I saw was extremely lightweight.
P.S. They have P2K S1's for $30. Hmmm...
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Posted - July 27 2009 : 03:36:17 AM
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| Have any IHC SD24 owners here added knuckle couplers to their locomotives? If so, please let me know which fit best since the SD24 is strangely absent from Kadee's IHC conversion list. Thanks.
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Posted - July 30 2009 : 8:32:01 PM
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I have mounted knuckle couplers. But I used a set from McHenry rather then Kadee. These couplers have a very long shank and simply push into the coupler pocket with no modification. I think these couplers were ment for passenger cars, but not sure. Nor do I remember what the stock numbers are.
Edited by - Hypoponera on July 31 2009 10:01:21 PM
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Posted - July 30 2009 : 9:47:03 PM
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I dug this from the McHenry web site. It says for most loco's and freigt cars, looks like the 50 series has the correct one. Just have to find the one with the correct length.
http://www.mchenrycouplers.com/
The link is to the main web site, check out the product listing.
Tom
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Posted - July 31 2009 : 10:06:44 PM
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Look at #52 under Riverossi/IHC. I think that one is longer then the ones I used, but the same style. Maybe #53 is the right one? Too bad there isn't a photo of it.
You could also try to body mount Kadees. You would need to remove the truck mounted coupler pocket to make room. The frame is plastic and should have no trouble being drilled for the coupler screws.
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Posted - August 01 2009 : 03:57:51 AM
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| Thank you Hypoponera and eaglerock109 for pointing me in the right direction. After raiding an old Rivarossi tanker, my SD24 is now knuckle-coupled to an Athearn flat car! I'm using a McHenry #56 that's a bit long but works and will do for the meanwhile. Cheers guys.
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Posted - November 20 2017 : 8:19:19 PM
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| They run pretty smooth and details can be added, good value!
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