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 How to lubricate Life-Like diesels?
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Author Previous Topic: Newbie Topic Next Topic: Life-Like light ups collection  

wiley209
Hudson

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 Posted - January 12 2013 :  10:46:35 PM Link directly to this topic  Show Profile  Add wiley209 to Buddylist
I was wondering if anyone here could give me knowledge on how to lubricate Life-Like F7, F40PH and GP38-2 diesel locomotives? I do clean the pick-up wheels when need be, but I would also like to know how to lube them. I have a Life-Like "grease gun" that came with my train maintenance kit, and is designed for lubing locomotives. I think giving said engines a good lubrication may help improve their performance too, so they don't wear out too soon.

I already know how to remove their shells, so that's a plus. Is any more dis-assembly required for a lubrication?
 Country: USA  ~  Posts: 599  ~  Member Since: January 03 2013  ~  Last Visit: February 14 2026 Alert Moderator 

weekendrailroader
Little Six

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 Posted - January 12 2013 :  11:16:53 PM Link directly to this reply  Show Profile  Add weekendrailroader to Buddylist
Basically, lube everything that moves where it comes in contact with something else. The most basic thing to lubricate on a diesel locomotive is the gears, but don't forget to also lubricate all bearings in the locomotive. I use Labelle 102:

1). On the bearing where the motor shafts extend through and out of the motor casing.

2). On any U-joints or other connectors used along the driveshafts between the motor and the gear towers (if your locomotive has gear towers. Some train set locomotives had the motor directly on one of the trucks).

3) On the gear axle bearings (most gears turn on an axle of some sort, don't forget to lubricate that axle).

4). On wheel axle bearings (where the wheel axle enters and exits the truck frame).

Do note that some have had good experiences oiling the motor commutator. Others have watched their motors go up in smoke after oiling their commutators. I think it depends on which oil you use. I don't oil mine, and I haven't run into any problems.

On a steam locomotive, the gears and components 1 through 4 have to be oiled in addition to all of the "monkey motion", that is, piston rods, connecting rods, eccentrics, etc. All of those rivets and joints have to be oiled, as well as the piston rods which slide back and forth in the pistons.

My Youtube Channel: http://www.youtube.com/user/weekendrailroader?blend=1&ob=video-mustangbase
 Country: USA  ~  Posts: 189  ~  Member Since: March 07 2012  ~  Last Visit: February 16 2026 Alert Moderator  Go To Top Of Page

wiley209
Hudson

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 Posted - January 13 2013 :  11:16:43 AM Link directly to this reply  Show Profile  Add wiley209 to Buddylist
OK, now I need to know how I can access those parts. If anyone else has a Life-Like diesel, please tell me how to get to those areas. :P
 Country: USA  ~  Posts: 599  ~  Member Since: January 03 2013  ~  Last Visit: February 14 2026 Alert Moderator  Go To Top Of Page

wiley209
Hudson

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 Posted - January 13 2013 :  9:16:46 PM Link directly to this reply  Show Profile  Add wiley209 to Buddylist
OK, I couldn't see the gears. Anyone know how I can disassemble the motor just to lube it?
 Country: USA  ~  Posts: 599  ~  Member Since: January 03 2013  ~  Last Visit: February 14 2026 Alert Moderator  Go To Top Of Page

burlington77
Big Boy


burlington2

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 Posted - January 13 2013 :  9:42:29 PM Link directly to this reply  Show Profile  Add burlington77 to Buddylist
Are they the basic Life-Likes with one power truck or the P2K versions? If they're P2K, use the previous post's instructions.

If they're the basic Life-Likes, they'll have only one power truck, probably up front. You'll need to remove the cover from the gears. It snaps over the bottom of the truck. The coupler box is part of it. Basically, you CAREFULLY pull up the coupler box and it will snap the cover off. This will expose the gears. You can clean/lube them and then snap the cover back on. Here's what it looks like.




The same can be done on the rear truck, but you'll just find pick-up wipers and wires. They only need to be cleaned to remove corrosion. When you put the cover back on, be sure the wipers are tucked into the right place.

Above all be careful, lots of fragile plastic. It's easy to snap the cover or break railings while handling them.
 Country: USA  ~  Posts: 1166  ~  Member Since: October 18 2009  ~  Last Visit: December 23 2018 Alert Moderator  Go To Top Of Page

burlington77
Big Boy


burlington2

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 Posted - January 15 2013 :  10:28:44 PM Link directly to this reply  Show Profile  Add burlington77 to Buddylist
Wiley, if you're on here I'd love to know how you did with this.
 Country: USA  ~  Posts: 1166  ~  Member Since: October 18 2009  ~  Last Visit: December 23 2018 Alert Moderator  Go To Top Of Page

wiley209
Hudson

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 Posted - January 16 2013 :  12:57:00 PM Link directly to this reply  Show Profile  Add wiley209 to Buddylist
Thanks for the info, it helped when lubricating my F7 and GP38-2s!
Nice phonograph in the pic, too
 Country: USA  ~  Posts: 599  ~  Member Since: January 03 2013  ~  Last Visit: February 14 2026 Alert Moderator  Go To Top Of Page

burlington77
Big Boy


burlington2

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 Posted - January 16 2013 :  9:57:11 PM Link directly to this reply  Show Profile  Add burlington77 to Buddylist
Glad we could help. I've really come to appreciate the old Life-Like line again, especially some of the building kits and the GP-38s. Back when I still had a layout, at Christmas time I would get out my first "train set train" and run it for old time sake. It's led by the D&H GP38-2 in the picture.

That phonograph is my other obsession. I got it at a garage sale for 5 bucks. One new belt and needle later, and it's working like a champ. With the 2 buck amplifier next to it, I've got a great bargain stereo system.
 Country: USA  ~  Posts: 1166  ~  Member Since: October 18 2009  ~  Last Visit: December 23 2018 Alert Moderator  Go To Top Of Page
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