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 Posted - October 08 2012 : 11:53:28 PM
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I've been planning this out for the past little while. Over the last week I've aqcuired all the basic materials needed, so I guess now is the time to start working on and documenting the progress of my newest layout idea 
The layout is going to be made exclusively for Tyco Turbo Trains. I'm not sure if this has ever been done, but I think it will be fun. The theme/scenery I'm aiming for is futuristic/retro-futuristic 
I'm building the layout in small sections for portability. To start off there will be two 4'X2' sections that will each hold a semi-circle of track. Basically I'm starting off with a circle...I can add more sections in later. Here's the first section:
And thanks to a few members on the forum, my collection of steel track:
The first step is going to be cleaning up all those steel rails
Ideas and suggestions are welcome 
Stay tuned!
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 Posted - October 09 2012 : 05:05:50 AM
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Cleaning the rails... DO NOT use a solid track cleaner. Use a bit of petrol like Vaseline, coat the rails... Then use a non-abrasive, paper product to remove the petrol and gunk from the rails.
People, I learned to use certain "chap-lip" products. I have never had to "clean" the rails since I nailed it to my 4 X 8 piece of 5/8 plywood... that was done November 2011.
Using Homasote or similar paper-fibre/fiber product to rub the gunk off the rails will NOT scratch the rails. The Walther's "Brite Boy" puts tiny scratches in the rails. Any sort of rubber/erasure block with tiny specks of shiny material will get you cleaning the rails at least once a week.
Try rubbing one rail cross-ways or parallel to the ties... you will see the scratches.
Want to clean the wheels/flanges of locomotives? A small strip of track coated with cherry flavored/flavoured Chapstick, bumpers at both ends, wired, place locomotive on the rails, power-up the track, may need to budge the locomotive, the wheels will be cleaned and then turned over and use a Kadee wheel cleaner, there's a reason why the bristles are brass.
Too much information, or just a passion to take better care of the metal wheels?
John
I don't have a one track mind. It depends on the turn-out.
"I love your catenary!"
Is that a power-trip or just another pick-up line?
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Posted - October 09 2012 : 05:52:47 AM
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The best paper fiber product I have seen to clean is a brown paper bag - won't leave scratches. Mr. Clean Eraser works well also, in addition to the above suggestions.
Starting my Tyco and other favorites collection over again after 37 years.
My still in progress list of inventory and wantlist: tyconut.com
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Posted - October 09 2012 : 07:15:54 AM
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Ok DaCheez... How does the guitar amp figure into the scenario? Or is this amp cam...
Mike
Ps. any new guitars lately?
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Posted - October 09 2012 : 09:03:44 AM
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Hey John. The problem with a lot of the track I have is not so much dirt and oil...it's RUST  Will Vaseline remove rust? If it does that will save me a lot of time! The only other option I can see however is resurfacing the rails. Basically using something abrasive to take off the rust and then using extremely fine sand paper to take out as many of the scratches as possible.
quote:Ok DaCheez... How does the guitar amp figure into the scenario? Or is this amp cam...
Mike
Ps. any new guitars lately? |
That's just me trying to keep the track off my apartment floor No guitars lately...that amp is actually the most recent thing. How about you? You were the one with that impressive wall of amps and guitars, yes?
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Posted - October 09 2012 : 09:41:28 AM
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quote:Ok DaCheez... How does the guitar amp figure into the scenario? Or is this amp cam...
Mike
Ps. any new guitars lately? |
That's just me trying to keep the track off my apartment floor No guitars lately...that amp is actually the most recent thing. How about you? You were the one with that impressive wall of amps and guitars, yes?
Originally posted by DaCheez - October 09 2012 : 09:03:44 AM
No guitars or amps lately, concentrating on used trains and layout building... less expensive that way!
Mike
[/quote]
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Posted - October 09 2012 : 09:57:11 AM
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ooooo I SEE my box Which was uber expensive to ship 
I threw in not only steel but nickle silver as well
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Posted - October 09 2012 : 11:17:52 AM
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quote:| No guitars or amps lately, concentrating on used trains and layout building... less expensive that way! |
True that. I'm in my final year of college so guitars are way on the back burner. It is saving me money
Hey busss. I noticed! I sorted out all the track and pulled out all of the Tyco. I'm trying to make the layout primarily out of Tyco track. Everything else will be for future projects. Thanks again
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Posted - October 09 2012 : 5:08:18 PM
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[/quote]
Hey busss. I noticed! I sorted out all the track and pulled out all of the Tyco. I'm trying to make the layout primarily out of Tyco track. Everything else will be for future projects. Thanks again
Originally posted by DaCheez - October 09 2012 : 11:17:52 AM
[/quote]
You is super welcome
Just remember I wants a Tyco Via caboose
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Posted - October 09 2012 : 5:22:10 PM
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Ah yes, but will you make room for the slot-car track turbo trains? And while you're at it, you might as well put a loop of nite-glow Tyco slot car track on there too and a hidden blacklight. Hey, why not make an interchange with...
Heh heh, you could just go on and on and on.
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Posted - October 09 2012 : 6:27:27 PM
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I like that MARSHALL cabinet!!!!
caboose 1
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Posted - October 09 2012 : 8:22:49 PM
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] Will Vaseline remove rust?
NO
Rust is the by product of the oxidation of iron.
It can be physically removed by an abrasive or chemically removed by an acid.
Unfortunately if an acid is used it will still be pitted and rough.
I'd start with C L R or liquid Rust Out, liquid iron out mild acidic cleaners. Not sure what they have up there in in Canada. Try Home depot or Lowes. Avoid anything that says Hydrochloric or Muriatic acid in the warning
once cleaned 400-600 paper and finish with 1000 wet sand
then protect from further oxidation with the Vaseline or lip balm
glad to be a small part of your project
fred in Mi
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Posted - October 10 2012 : 1:52:19 PM
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Thanks for the tips Fred. I picked up some CLR and 1000grit sandpaper this morning. I THINK I finally have enough cleaning supplies to deal with the various states of the track
Buss: I don't even have a VIA caboose yet When I'm back at my parents' house I'll look and see what I have!
quote:Ah yes, but will you make room for the slot-car track turbo trains? And while you're at it, you might as well put a loop of nite-glow Tyco slot car track on there too and a hidden blacklight. Hey, why not make an interchange with...
Heh heh, you could just go on and on and on. |
The amount of options I have are pretty much limitless (which I like). I have no plans to use the slot-trains, but I do like the nite-glow idea! I'll have to look into glow-in-the-dark paint
quote:| I like that MARSHALL cabinet!!!! |
Thanks
I picked up the rest of the wood this morning. More pics should be coming soon!
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Posted - October 10 2012 : 3:41:52 PM
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Cheez, try soaking those rusted sections in white vinegar. It's amazingly effective, and safer than products like CLR... it just smells worse.
The Tyco Depot
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Posted - October 10 2012 : 5:53:42 PM
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I STILL see my box I sent
np DaCheez its fine I didn't like what the ship charge was
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Posted - October 10 2012 : 6:42:39 PM
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hey cheese...Is the 1/2 stack for sale...thats just what a good blues man like me needs...
caboose 1
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Posted - October 10 2012 : 7:28:52 PM
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I've heard vinegar removes rust. Maybe I'll give that a try as well. I gave baking soda a shot last night...it did a little, but not a whole lot.
Sorry caboose, that's my main amp. I'd hate to see what shipping on that thing would be anyway
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Posted - October 10 2012 : 8:42:56 PM
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quote:Cheez, try soaking those rusted sections in white vinegar. It's amazingly effective, and safer than products like CLR... it just smells worse.
Originally posted by NickelPlate759Â -Â October 10 2012Â :Â 3:41:52 PM
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not a bad idea to start with something as mild as vinigar, even lemon juice.. if that doesn't cut it then C LR which is composed of a mild blend of organic acids
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Posted - October 10 2012 : 9:58:35 PM
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| how about orange juice?
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Posted - October 10 2012 : 10:50:46 PM
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Nah, try Hi-C.
I was given an old ham radio receiver, a Hammarland 129-X by a friend about 5 years ago. He hadn't been active in about 30 years, and it had sat in storage and needed a lot of cleanup. The cabinet is all steel, and the lid on the top you lift to access the tubes was rusted. I let some white vinegar sit on the rust for a few hours, and most of it wiped off. I sanded the rest off and repainted.
If the oxidation is bad enough it will leave pitting behind, but that's from the rust, not the vinegar.
The Tyco Depot
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Posted - October 11 2012 : 07:59:36 AM
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I used to use white Vinegar at the old Body shop I worked at to clean 1030's chrome bumpers and stuff with, you'd be amazed what that stuff will do to blisters and such!
Needless to say, we were getting the bumpers ready for re-Chroming so....Worked well. I wish I had pictures to show what it done......... VERY little sanding was required only in the worse places of it did I have to sand, and yes at this body shop, hand sanding for that was thee only way it was done, no hand tools! your hand, was the tool! I just wished out of all of them, I would have taken pictures of the 1933 , Plymouth 5 window Coupe! Was a gorgeous car what it was done!
~John
Many have tried to, and failed, ya just can't repair stupid...
Do NOT try to Idiot-Proof anything!!!! God, will simply create a better......IDIOT!
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Posted - October 11 2012 : 11:57:58 AM
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Thanks for all the input on the rusty track. I'll see what I can do and post my results . In the meantime, here is one of the finished benchwork sections. I have two so far, which is enough to start the basic circle layout
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Posted - October 11 2012 : 12:45:23 PM
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| kitty!
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Posted - October 23 2012 : 9:58:54 PM
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After about two hours of sanding and polishing tonight, I have finally turned rust into gold...err, steel I started out on the rails with 600 grit sandpaper, working my way down to 1000, and finally 2000 grit. So far I have 16 pieces, more than enough to start my layout. The TT power re-railer will be cleaned in the next few days and all the sections will receive nickel rail joiners. Here's the fresh, shiny rail
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Posted - October 24 2012 : 12:11:44 AM
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 sweet work I likes it
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Posted - October 24 2012 : 8:29:59 PM
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quote:I used to use white Vinegar at the old Body shop I worked at to clean 1030's chrome bumpers and stuff with, you'd be amazed what that stuff will do to blisters and such!
Needless to say, we were getting the bumpers ready for re-Chroming so....Worked well. I wish I had pictures to show what it done......... VERY little sanding was required only in the worse places of it did I have to sand, and yes at this body shop, hand sanding for that was thee only way it was done, no hand tools! your hand, was the tool! I just wished out of all of them, I would have taken pictures of the 1933 , Plymouth 5 window Coupe! Was a gorgeous car what it was done!
Originally posted by EM-1Â -Â October 11 2012Â :Â 07:59:36 AM
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why didn't i think of it. we used CocaCola to remove rust from bolts. Nothing more than phosphoric acid. My First job in high school was working at uncles Ford dealership in the body shop. tearing apart wrecks. All hand sanding, 400, 600 grit. No Bondo, all torch and lead with wooden paddles dipped in water and oil to smooth the lead. Enamel paint, baked with heat lamps. Back then it was an art..
Try soaking your track in diet coke
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Posted - October 24 2012 : 9:55:14 PM
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Nice! If I ever come across a turbo train set cheap I'm going to pick it up. I've got spots for it in my layout. You're certainly inspiring.
Rus
Starting my Tyco and other favorites collection over again after 37 years.
My still in progress list of inventory and wantlist: tyconut.com
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Posted - October 25 2012 : 2:06:42 PM
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I got all the fresh rail joiners installed yesterday. The Santa Fe TT engine ran some laps and man did it run smoooooooth The passenger engine is next on the list for a shoe cleaning and then I'll get started on mounting the track to the boards.
The track is going to be elevated off the layout several inches...I still need to figure out how I want to do it
cheez
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Posted - October 25 2012 : 2:48:27 PM
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I think some short scraps of 2X4 and some plywood would do great. Or. for more another look, dowels for the supports.
" Heck with counting 'em rivets, TRAINS ARE FOR FUN! Not called the Mad Scientist for nothing either!"
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Posted - October 25 2012 : 4:17:28 PM
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I'd recommend cutting out a roadbed out of 3/4" plywood or solid wood, and elevating it using 1/2" or 3/4" dowels. I'd use a router and bevel the top edge. If you make it about 1 1/2" wider than the tracks, 1/4" bevel on each side, and offset it a little, you can have a maintenance walkway next to it.
You can then paint everything primer grey or a similar color - looks like concrete. If you sprinkle on some sand and do a couple of coats, it will look a little rough - very much like concrete. For added fun use two colors of grey that are close but not identical.
Rus
Starting my Tyco and other favorites collection over again after 37 years.
My still in progress list of inventory and wantlist: tyconut.com
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Posted - October 25 2012 : 6:08:04 PM
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| Dowels and plywood were what I was thinking. The gray primer for concrete is a good idea which I'll have to use at some point What I had in mind was painting the supports and platform white and then using neon shades of glow-in-the-dark paint for accents. Clean and futuristic
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Posted - October 25 2012 : 7:02:34 PM
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Oooh - neat! I always forget there's the day-glo and glow-in-the-dark stuff too.
Starting my Tyco and other favorites collection over again after 37 years.
My still in progress list of inventory and wantlist: tyconut.com
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Posted - October 25 2012 : 11:07:04 PM
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please explain how this differs from a regular H O .as far as power
why the need for steel track
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Posted - October 25 2012 : 11:52:52 PM
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steel track is used cause TT trains have magnets in them to hold them on the track for curves, loops & jumps
I wonder if Rare Earth magnets would work better for that ? naah too strong I'll bet
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Posted - October 26 2012 : 12:22:37 AM
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quote:
I wonder if Rare Earth magnets would work better for that ? naah too strong I'll bet
Originally posted by microbusss - October 25 2012 : 11:52:52 PM
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You're not kidding... it wouldn't be able to move. I think modern slot cars are designed with them, though.
The Tyco Depot
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Posted - October 26 2012 : 09:01:33 AM
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For glow-in the dark, there's two things you can do.
"Phosphorescent" paint is that yellow glow-n-the-dark paint that you see used in everything that actually glows after you've turned the lights off. It's used in those little plastic stars that we all stuck to our walls and celling when we were kids.
"Fluorescent" or "black-light" paint usually comes in neon colors, such as neon orange, neon pink, neon green, etc. High-lighter marker ink is fluorescent too. This stuff does not glow in the dark (okay, if you charge it up enough, it'll glow for a few minutes, but that's it). The way to make the paint fluoresce is to have a black-light shining on it. You can get a small black-light fixture (get the one with the fluorescent tubes, not the kind that screws into a normal light-socket) for about $20 at your local party supply store.
You can make A LOT of cool effects with a black-light, so that's the route I would recommend. Plus, you can make the glowing elements multiple colors.
Looking forward to seeing what you come up with.
My Youtube Channel: http://www.youtube.com/user/weekendrailroader?blend=1&ob=video-mustangbase
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Posted - October 27 2012 : 12:09:23 PM
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quote:please explain how this differs from a regular H O .as far as power
why the need for steel track |
In the above picture I'm using an original Turbo Train controller. An adapter is plugged in to the wall at one end and into the re-railer at the other end. The slotcar gun is used to control the speed of the train. A standard transformer would work as well. The train has magnets to hold it to the track which is why steel rails are needed.
WeedendRailroader: I remember going in to an art store with my girlfriend a while back and seeing some large containers of neon-coloured paint...I think they were glow-in-the-dark, although it may have just been black-light paint Either way fluorescent paint is probably what I'll go with. I've used phosphorescent paint before...I may just use that for some accents
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Posted - October 27 2012 : 3:32:22 PM
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Sounds good DaCheez. PLease keep updating with more pictures as work progresses.
One other idea, hide a small boombox in there somewhere and play this when the train goes around the track.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BCMX7Cmcxus
My Youtube Channel: http://www.youtube.com/user/weekendrailroader?blend=1&ob=video-mustangbase
Edited by - weekendrailroader on October 27 2012 3:33:53 PM
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