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 Posted - September 13 2012 : 8:57:55 PM
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went to hobby Recycling today to check out wheels as some of my cars derail for no apparent reason especially on 12 degree cross overs. Instead of crossing they want to go down the other track
. Owner was gone, mother in law watching the store so couldn't get an answer
Didn't know i had so many options. 33 inch vs 36 inch, smooth back vs serrated back, steel vs plastic
so what's best to reduce derails?
fred in MI
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Posted - September 13 2012 : 9:26:25 PM
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from what I know 33 inch are standard for boxcars, flats, and I think tankcars. 36 inch are for hoppers so if you want to be accurate you'd have to change coupler height
ribbed back are used on older period cars, to what era I do not know.
as a rule of thumb< i use a combo of metal wheels with weight added over the trucks and a "3 point" adjustment one truck tightened then turn the screw back one turn to make the truck wobble, and one truck screwed tight enough that there is no rocking but the truck still turns.
if you are using the clip in type truck it could be a number of things, hope that helps a bit
just me Ray... and just because I have Tyco doesn't mean I am not a model railroader
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Posted - September 13 2012 : 9:55:03 PM
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as a rule of thumb< i use a combo of metal wheels with weight added over the trucks and a "3 point" adjustment one truck tightened then turn the screw back one turn to make the truck wobble, and one truck screwed tight enough that there is no rocking but the truck still turns.
tried the 3 point on all cars with bolts. Would you believe in a couple of cases actually started to derail on the truck that was tight. seems going into an incline on a curve or going over a cross over leading into an incline not enough pivot and wheel would lift up and over . Corrected by loosening bolt. while some cars wobble at least they stay on the track
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Posted - September 13 2012 : 10:16:23 PM
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quote:from what I know 33 inch are standard for boxcars, flats, and I think tankcars. 36 inch are for hoppers so if you want to be accurate you'd have to change coupler height....
Originally posted by rgcw5Â -Â September 13 2012Â :Â 9:26:25 PM
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Um, 3 inches scale HO equals what fraction of an inch increase in height? I asked that question of a hobby shop train guy, he said since you're talking SCALE inches, not real inches, it's only probably a few thousands difference, not really enough to warrant coupler height adjustments. I'd have to agree with him. Most modelers like steel wheels over plastic, adds weight at the bottom of the center of gravity, not on top, so really helps the car roll better. Most of the serrated backed wheels are from the late 1800's to early 1900's, so unless you're modeling that era, probably you would want smooth-backed steel wheels from the 1930's onwards. I"m no expert, but that's just a rough estimate. Google it to find out for sure. Steel wheel replacements are expensive, but if you want your toy rolling stock to perform better, nothing beats the performance of the nickel-steel wheels with their finer sharp points, the cars really roll with minimal friction even using them in Tyco or Bachmann trucks. Plastic wheels are crude, sometimes out of round, and pick up dirt and grunge easily, and hold it, too. If you can't afford it all at once, just pick a few to start with ( obviously the worst derailing offenders ) and try the steel on them first.
Jerry
" When life throws you bananas...it's easy to slip up"
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Posted - September 14 2012 : 12:02:30 AM
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quote: quote:from what I know 33 inch are standard for boxcars, flats, and I think tankcars. 36 inch are for hoppers so if you want to be accurate you'd have to change coupler height....
Originally posted by rgcw5Â -Â September 13 2012Â :Â 9:26:25 PM
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Um, 3 inches scale HO equals what fraction of an inch increase in height? I asked that question of a hobby shop train guy, he said since you're talking SCALE inches, not real inches, it's only probably a few thousands difference, not really enough to warrant coupler height adjustments. I'd have to agree with him. Most modelers like steel wheels over plastic, adds weight at the bottom of the center of gravity, not on top, so really helps the car roll better. Most of the serrated backed wheels are from the late 1800's to early 1900's, so unless you're modeling that era, probably you would want smooth-backed steel wheels from the 1930's onwards. I"m no expert, but that's just a rough estimate. Google it to find out for sure. Steel wheel replacements are expensive, but if you want your toy rolling stock to perform better, nothing beats the performance of the nickel-steel wheels with their finer sharp points, the cars really roll with minimal friction even using them in Tyco or Bachmann trucks. Plastic wheels are crude, sometimes out of round, and pick up dirt and grunge easily, and hold it, too. If you can't afford it all at once, just pick a few to start with ( obviously the worst derailing offenders ) and try the steel on them first.
Jerry
Originally posted by AMC_Gremlin_GTÂ -Â September 13 2012Â :Â 10:16:23 PM
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.034 in to be exact
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Posted - September 14 2012 : 01:11:29 AM
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quote:
.034 in to be exact
Originally posted by derfberger - September 14 2012 : 12:02:30 AM
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Which is total diameter difference, right? Basically a spark plug gap. But there's two sides to the wheel measurement, so in reality you're lifting the car .015 inches on ONE side only, the other half is above the track on the opposite side. So it could make a difference, or not, to the coupler height. You'd have to do your NMRA gauge measurement to be sure. 15 thousandths is nothing to sneeze at, true, but still may not affect ride height enough to warrant coupler regauging. I think I've been using 33's myself with no problems.
Jerry
" When life throws you bananas...it's easy to slip up"
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Posted - September 14 2012 : 05:35:46 AM
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Perhaps the best reason, among others, to convert to metal wheels is that they tend not to " crud up" line the plastic ones, and if they get soiled, are far easier to lean and to keep clean for longer periods. One other reason is the ease with which they take paint and weathering, as the acetal plastic ones are not as receptive to that process. I generally get Intermountain 33" insulated smooth- backed ones, so I have an option to pull power from the wheel contact with the track, should I want to add lighting to a particular car. The lower rolling resistance and added weight often makes a big difference in the way the car handles on the track, not to mention more realistic " sound" as they roll over joints in the track- a free added benefit!
Ron
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