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 Posted - September 11 2012 : 11:01:46 PM
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I've only had this 1950s MDC-Roundhouse 0-6-0 for 2 days and i'm already far along with its restoration!! Within these 2 days i've stripped the entire engine down, and made almost all the needed repairs on it! The biggest thing was cleaning those filthy corroded drive wheels! It took an hour just to remove all the gunk off the wheels but now they shine like new! Also all the rivets that hold in the rods have been cleaned and they also shine! The frame, cab, main rods, yoke bar, cylinders, and gear cover plate were painted today! The frame has been almost fully reassembled! The cylinders are back on and the yoke bar is back on as well! After the wheels were cleaned I put them under the frame, oiled the axles then did a rolling test and everything checks out A okay! The side rods, boiler, and wheel faces need to be painted. This will be done within the next 2 days. Enjoy the following photos of the restoration! I will continuously post on this topic everytime work is done!
 SCVR #2s frame after paint, and reassembly! Wheels under frame for rolling test
 here's the before photo and you can clearly see the filthy wheels!! the next photo is after wheel cleaning
 here's the after photo with al lthe wheels cleaned!! MUCH better!!
I buy, repair, and collect
http://scvr.weebly.com/
http://seyboldlocomotiveworks.weebly.com/
http://www.youtube.com/user/TheDeputation?feature=watch
Hyde.
Edited by - SCVR66 on September 11 2012 11:02:49 PM
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Posted - September 12 2012 : 12:38:57 PM
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Looks great so far Hyde!
Sean
"If everything seems under control, you're not going fast enough!" - Mario Andretti!
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Posted - September 12 2012 : 6:45:27 PM
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Thanks! Trying to get as much done before my new layout construction starts!
I buy, repair, and collect
http://scvr.weebly.com/
http://seyboldlocomotiveworks.weebly.com/
http://www.youtube.com/user/TheDeputation?feature=watch
Hyde.
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Posted - September 12 2012 : 7:34:55 PM
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I wish I got one this past train show. I seen several all over from $15-$25. Just very rough though.
" Heck with counting 'em rivets, TRAINS ARE FOR FUN! Not called the Mad Scientist for nothing either!"
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Posted - September 12 2012 : 9:43:19 PM
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Well not like this one was in amazing condition. the only thing going for it was that it was complete. I'm glad I finally got one! Now I have to find a tender for it! I would probably pay up to $20 for mine as it was when i first got it.
I buy, repair, and collect
http://scvr.weebly.com/
http://seyboldlocomotiveworks.weebly.com/
http://www.youtube.com/user/TheDeputation?feature=watch
Hyde.
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Posted - September 13 2012 : 1:26:14 PM
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Boy that was oxidized, but now you've messed up the patina. 
The Tyco Depot
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Posted - September 13 2012 : 2:47:27 PM
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Honestly i was tempted to keep it as is because i loved it.! If i wasnt a restorer i wouldve kept it as is. 
I buy, repair, and collect
http://scvr.weebly.com/
http://seyboldlocomotiveworks.weebly.com/
http://www.youtube.com/user/TheDeputation?feature=watch
Hyde.
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Posted - September 13 2012 : 6:32:45 PM
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Drive wheels presently in primer, no not the brass tires too... Frame assembly should be done tonight!!
I buy, repair, and collect
http://scvr.weebly.com/
http://seyboldlocomotiveworks.weebly.com/
http://www.youtube.com/user/TheDeputation?feature=watch
Hyde.
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Posted - September 14 2012 : 10:32:34 PM
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Lot of progress and a lot of struggles with my 0-6-0 #2. I always seem to struggle with MDC engines! Of my 3 that I have i've struggled with all! Anyways, rods, drive wheel faces, and boiler were painted!! The cab is back on the boiler and it looks fantastic! the running gear was where my struggles were coming from. I reinstalled the side rods and put that assembly back under the frame, and screwed the plate down to secure it in place but it seemed to tight and it wouldnt budge so i dont know whats wrong. When I put the motor on and moved it with my fingers the wheels just sparked and YES they are on the correct current sides! So I don't know why the running gear is so locked up even when fully oiled. I have it in pieces again and made sure the axles and bearings were sanded and clear of any paint but still no sign of improvement. oh well, it's time to start constructing my new layout so it has to be set aside. I did reassemble it fully for photos the other day!
 here's the shiny newish engine!
 had #2 borrow my IHC 2-6-0 #7809s tender which ironically is an MDC roundhouse tender
 here's the motor, hope the problem isn't the repairs I made..
I buy, repair, and collect
http://scvr.weebly.com/
http://seyboldlocomotiveworks.weebly.com/
http://www.youtube.com/user/TheDeputation?feature=watch
Hyde.
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Posted - October 06 2012 : 9:32:54 PM
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Well it's been a while since the last update but boy have i been working! Additional frame and axle work was needed and has now been completed! The drive wheels are back under the frame with the plate screwed down! Also using seperate power to test #2s motor it works great!! I'm not sure how it's supposed to make connection to power the wheels? One of you guys out there will have to help me. Anyways the side rods have been installed and so has the left side main rod! Additional valve guide work is needed on the left side! But it passed it's rolling test! See photos below! Also i installed a new knuckle coupler to the pilot beam!
 here's the right side after main rod has been installed!
 boiler back on to keep most of it in one piece
 close up of her main rod
I buy, repair, and collect
http://scvr.weebly.com/
http://seyboldlocomotiveworks.weebly.com/
http://www.youtube.com/user/TheDeputation?feature=watch
Hyde.
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 Posted - October 08 2012 : 04:37:12 AM
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" ...I'm not sure how it's supposed to make connection to power the wheels? One of you guys out there will have to help me. ..."
I forget what you call the ( ) part behind the valve guides, but there's one screw that holds it into the chassis, just ahead of the motor worm-gear...{the yoke?} while my own mdc 0-6-0 loco needs new drivers, I have made a wheel-to-chassis-to-motor connection...
You may know that the motor needs direct contact to the chassis, it being the "ground" for the motor... engineer-side drivers to rail, fireman-side wheels/chassis of tender the other "red" motor contact/brushes...
Those tender-truck "clips" that allow contact from the wheels-axle to the tender chassis... looks like : --O-- with a hole in the middle for the truck to be mounted...
Well, I mounted one of those to the part (yoke ) behind the valve guide, screwed to the chassis with one set bent on and making contact with the back-side of the front axle wheel.
Hence, making the connection from rail-wheel-chassis-"black"-connection of the motor.
You said you've got good connection for the tender-chassis-wire for the left side/red polarity.
I've got a smooth-running all-metal version as yours... my plastic-cab & tender version needs new driver/quartering done.
John
p.s. Nice work on your restoration!
p.p.s. wanna buy this loco in-need-of-help?
The motor is near mint, Sagami, made in Japan.
p.p.p.s. Hyde, I hope you don't mind me ridding on your coat tails, that is adding and relating your need of help to my direct experience of the mdc 0-6-0's.
I don't have a one track mind. It depends on the turn-out.
"I love your catenary!"
Is that a power-trip or just another pick-up line?
Edited by - zebrails on October 08 2012 1:39:54 PM
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Posted - October 08 2012 : 07:33:32 AM
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What ya asking for the 0-6-0 John? I'd be interested in it!
PM sent!
~John
Many have tried to, and failed, ya just can't repair stupid...
Do NOT try to Idiot-Proof anything!!!! God, will simply create a better......IDIOT!
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