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 Posted - September 07 2012 : 7:40:49 PM
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I posted on MR about this and got three replies: one, collateral to the topic, another just a few images with no explanation, and a third that gave a hint of an answer.
Here is the question, put in a different way: Given an unpainted piece of styrene to weather, how well do artists acrylics and oils, such as Liquitex, adhere to the surface? Do I need a primer coating first, or just apply and then cover with a matte or Dullcote after drying?
I am thinking that the longer open air time of such paints, as poured out from a tube, would be easier to work with than the rather fast drying acrylics, as per "dry-brushing" techniques, allowing me to do the work in less of a hurry and put more thought into the process as I paint.
Another example would be a previously painted surface, such as a flat car bed, where the existing paint has been there for a long time, and I want to give the surface a more realistic look. Does the artists type paints
adhere to such a surface better?
I came across a " paint and chalk kit" my lovely and talented daughter got for a present but never used. There are a lot of earth tone colors in it, both acrylic and oil-based paints, so I am soliciting opinions before I try to use it.
Siouxlake/Ron
Edited by - siouxlake on September 07 2012 7:43:00 PM
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Posted - September 07 2012 : 7:47:50 PM
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[quote]I posted on MR about this and got three replies: one, collateral to the topic, another just a few images with no explanation, and a third that gave a hint of an answer.
Here is the question, put in a different way: Given an unpainted piece of styrene to weather, how well do artists acrylics and oils, such as Liquitex, adhere to the surface? Do I need a primer coating first, or just apply and then cover with a matte or Dullcote after drying?
I am thinking that the longer open air time of such paints, as poured out from a tube, would be easier to work with than the rather fast drying acrylics, as per "dry-brushing" techniques, allowing me to do the work in less of a hurry and put more thought into the process as I paint.
Another example would be a previously painted surface, such as a flat car bed, where the existing paint has been there for a long time, and I want to give the surface a more realistic look. Does the artists type paints
adhere to such a surface better?
I came across a " paint and chalk kit" my lovely and talented daughter got for a present but never used. There are a lot of earth tone colors in it, both acrylic and oil-based paints, so I am soliciting opinions before I try to use it.
Siouxlake/Ron
well, I'm not a "weathering" expert by any means...I use spray cans...but I would definately use a light coat of primer on ANY styrene...plastic doesn't seem to hold oil based paint well...thats' just my experience....the primer color will also affect the final color too...as in hue...lights and darks...hope that helps a little...
caboose 1
Edited by - caboose 1 on September 07 2012 7:48:39 PM
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Posted - September 08 2012 : 08:53:54 AM
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One thing to stress is to clean the styrene with soap and water. My club's talented modeler said there is still release agents on the (new) plastics, and if you don't wash it off, the paint won't adhere to it well. Far as older items already painted to redo, removing all the old paint is probably better, otherwise you may have a thick-looking coat on the detailing. I'm no detailer myself, but just picked up some tidbits of knowledge while learning to "mortar" the brick on houses with white. I don't think we used oil-based, it was a water-based color in that work shop. Not likely to need to worry about it coming off, unless your layout endures a flooding. Anyway, no expert help from me, but a few small items to consider.
Jerry
" When life throws you bananas...it's easy to slip up"
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Posted - September 19 2012 : 9:16:14 PM
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Sioux,
I've used the artist acrylic paints that are commonly found in arts & crafts supply stores for weathering. These will adhere to our plastic model trains with no problems as long as your surface is "squeaky clean".
Instead of an airbrush, I "over-thin" them with distilled water and apply them on to my models as washes using a #2 Taklon paint brush. I especially like the results I get on weathering the wheel faces and underbodies of freight cars. The capillary action from those acrylics yields instant results. My favorite colors were the tan and brown colored earth tones.
Oil based paints work well also but are less forgiving than acrylics. With acrylics if you don't like your results, you can quickly wash them off and start again.
At the moment my freight cars are boxed up, but once I finish metalizing my passenger car fleet, I'll pull them out and post photos of my weathered freight rolling stock.
Be creative, share and enjoy the hobby :-)
Edited by - AntonioFP45 on September 19 2012 9:22:58 PM
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Posted - September 19 2012 : 9:39:48 PM
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I've used chalks and pigment powders, as well as artists' acrylic and oil paints for many years. I very rarely airbrush-weather my equipment. Every type of paint (or powder) has its strengths and weaknesses... and don't forget to consider application methods beyond paintbrushes, such as toothpicks and cosmetic applicators.
Best thing to do is take some old rolling stock - like Tyco BN boxcars - and experiment :)
I will say that gloss finishes do not take weathering (especially alcohol washes) very well.
Also, my weathering skill made a quantum leap they day I finally tried to match a model to a photo. Carefully studying real-world weathering patterns and paying attention to what you're doing is worlds different than imagined / random effects. And after you do a few "real" cars and ,aster the techniques, your subsequent "imagined" ones will look that much better too.
A few years ago I posted a gallery of cars I'd done to that time. Most of them hold up fairly well, I think...
http://goingincirclez.com/RRmodels/weathering
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Posted - September 20 2012 : 06:00:17 AM
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Spiderboy brings up a good point I forgot to mention. For modelers that happen to have units with a high gloss finish, it's a good step to flatten the surface. Dullcote in the rattlecan comes in handy for this and for those that prefer to airbrush, the flat finish clears from Alclad, Pollyscale, or Model Masters yield smooth results.
Be creative, share and enjoy the hobby :-)
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