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 Posted - September 01 2012 : 7:47:05 PM
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why wont the 2 holes on my 2-8-2 chassis line up with the 2 holes on the bottom
of the motor?...Why does the bottom plate on my pacific look different?...I know there is less axles...but the screw holes are in different places....this real simple fix is turning into
a pain in the rump!
caboose 1
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Posted - September 01 2012 : 8:01:02 PM
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Ted,
You got an issue with this! The frame might be for a light weight boiler, and the boiler might be a heavy boiler, they were drilled differently!
You'll have to find the right boiler to fit the frame! Any pictures?
~John
Many have tried to, and failed, ya just can't repair stupid... 
Do NOT try to Idiot-Proof anything!!!! God, will simply create a better......IDIOT!
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Posted - September 01 2012 : 8:10:05 PM
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quote:Ted,
You got an issue with this! The frame might be for a light weight boiler, and the boiler might be a heavy boiler, they were drilled differently!
You'll have to find the right boiler to fit the frame! Any pictures?
Originally posted by EM-1Â -Â September 01 2012Â :Â 8:01:02 PM
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OK...wrong match I can understand that..chassis looks like its been ground to fit some other motor...but the boiler fits....the mototr doesn't... 
caboose 1
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Posted - September 01 2012 : 8:13:39 PM
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and, according to my parts breakdown...there should be "lugs" facing upwards on the chassis...which look like they've been ground off....unless like you say say...wrong chassis
caboose 1
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Posted - September 01 2012 : 10:42:54 PM
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There's only one screw for the motor, and it goes through the hole closest the axle gear.
The Tyco Depot
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Posted - September 01 2012 : 11:08:37 PM
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quote:There's only one screw for the motor, and it goes through the hole closest the axle gear.
Originally posted by NickelPlate759Â -Â September 01 2012Â :Â 10:42:54 PM
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OK....that makes sense...when I got the engine...the only screw in it went through
the rear axle hole through the chassis and into THE REAR of the motor, where the beveled hole is....the motor would pivot when power was supplied....and my diagram shows that
as well....guess I'll try the one screw application
Thanx guys for your help so far
caboose 1
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Posted - September 01 2012 : 11:43:14 PM
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Ted,
See picture:
The RED square box, is the hole the motor mount screw goes through.....
The BLACK square boxes (one is difficult to see,) is the rear boiler mount lugs as they should line up with the rear most section of the firebox underside. The front of the boiler mounts through the smoke stack.
Check to see if the front mount and the 2 rear mounts line up without the motor as it could sit to high if its not the correct motor! As there is limited space within the insides of the boiler casting.
HTH
~John
Many have tried to, and failed, ya just can't repair stupid...
Do NOT try to Idiot-Proof anything!!!! God, will simply create a better......IDIOT!
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Posted - September 01 2012 : 11:46:04 PM
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Also I forgot to mention, it looks as if the boiler you have in the picture is the boiler for the locomotive? Thats the Mantua "heavy" boiler!
They made a "light" boiler for the 2-8-2, and sadly enough you can not interchange boilers on the frames as they are drilled differently. The "heavy" boiler is slightly longer then the 'light" boiler and the bolt locations show this!
~John
Many have tried to, and failed, ya just can't repair stupid...
Do NOT try to Idiot-Proof anything!!!! God, will simply create a better......IDIOT!
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Posted - September 02 2012 : 09:34:24 AM
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[quote]Also I forgot to mention, it looks as if the boiler you have in the picture is the boiler for the locomotive? Thats the Mantua "heavy" boiler!
They made a "light" boiler for the 2-8-2, and sadly enough you can not interchange boilers on the frames as they are drilled differently. The "heavy" boiler is slightly longer then the 'light" boiler and the bolt locations show this!
the boiler fits the chassis fine...I didnt know that only one screw was required...
but this chassis seems to have been "worked"....the lugs or "pads" are not present on this chassis, as they are in the breakdown I looked at on HO seeker....so now, Im trying
to figure out what's gonna keep the motor from twisting side to side when power is applied
I've already got "too much" money in this engine..I dont wannna buy another chassis for it
I may have to rig up something
I'm gonna test run with one screw and see what happens
I shall return!
Thanx guys
caboose 1
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Posted - September 02 2012 : 09:51:57 AM
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OK I test ran the engine...had to loosen the screw to get it to function...but then the motor twists on the chassis then touches the drivers and shorts out. Something HAS to
keep that motor straight so the gears will mesh properly; and to keep the motor off the drivers...if the screw is too tight, then it will not rotate
caboose 1
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Posted - September 02 2012 : 10:47:32 AM
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OK
I installed a spacer washer on the screw between the chassis and the motor
and cut a "pad" of firm rubber and used that to adjust the height at the rear
of the motor...runs in fwd and rev...now just some minor adjustments, a tweak
here and there and a clean up....should be just fine
Thanx guys!!!
caboose 1
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Posted - September 02 2012 : 10:49:39 AM
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[after adjustments with pad
caboose 1
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Posted - September 02 2012 : 1:20:35 PM
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Ted,
See picture:
The red box should have a round post that sticks up off the frame, on both sides next to the drivers, the rear brass section of the motor should fit between these 2 posts. Thats what holds the motor from twisting and touching the boiler.
HTH
~John
Many have tried to, and failed, ya just can't repair stupid...
Do NOT try to Idiot-Proof anything!!!! God, will simply create a better......IDIOT!
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Posted - September 02 2012 : 1:54:05 PM
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Yes, thats what I was saying earlier...but they are not there...looks likie they've been removed
caboose 1
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Posted - September 02 2012 : 7:34:53 PM
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Ted, if you want a more permanent solution, you could use some epoxy putty to mold some protrusions where the frame is missing those motor locating pins. That would keep it from spinning. It sounds like someone ground them off, probably to make room for a different motor.
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Posted - September 02 2012 : 8:05:40 PM
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Ted, even easier way is to find where the brass plate of the motor is centered, and drill 2 holes for taping #50 drill bit, or .070 of an inch diameter to tap for a 2-56 thread machine screw. Turn in till its in a good distance, and cut off the head of the screw, and file the cut smooth!
Making sure the screws are not really tight but snug against the brass plate from the motor.
HTH
~John
Many have tried to, and failed, ya just can't repair stupid...
Do NOT try to Idiot-Proof anything!!!! God, will simply create a better......IDIOT!
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Posted - September 02 2012 : 8:17:23 PM
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John, great minds think alike. That occurred to me after posting, of course, but I think the epoxy might be easier, especially if someone doesn't have a tap.
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Edited by - NickelPlate759 on September 02 2012 8:34:46 PM
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Posted - September 02 2012 : 8:41:48 PM
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Nelson, that be true, HOWEVER, a 2-56 thread self tapping screw about a half inch long would suffice......
~John
Many have tried to, and failed, ya just can't repair stupid...
Do NOT try to Idiot-Proof anything!!!! God, will simply create a better......IDIOT!
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Posted - September 03 2012 : 10:14:05 AM
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Yes, I've thought about all those solutions...I dont have a tap n die set that small..so that is out...but the epoxy and the 2 new posts idea is quite possible...I also put some thin plastic shims inside the boiler. Its just on the shelf for now...not pulling any trains yet, so I've got plenty of time. Heck maybey I'll find the right chassis that hasn't been butchered one of these days and install it.
Thanx guys!
caboose 1
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Posted - September 03 2012 : 11:49:05 AM
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Ted,
You can also drill the needed hole for the 2-56 thread screw, and use a self tapping 2-56 thread screw, and then turn it out, turn in a regular ole 2-56 thread screw, and clip off the head and file smooth!
That is one frame, I don't have any extras of! Even tho, I have complete locomotives but.......I got plans for all of them that I plan to keep!
BTW this will be my 900th posting!
~John
Many have tried to, and failed, ya just can't repair stupid...
Do NOT try to Idiot-Proof anything!!!! God, will simply create a better......IDIOT!
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