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 Posted - April 21 2012 : 2:07:20 PM
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Does anyone have any experience remotoring an AHM 0-8-0? I have one I found cheap because the pilot was broken, I've detailed it, put a snowplow on the front, repainted it, and it runs great and looks plausibly like an engine the Rio Grande would have built for heavy duty mine switching.
BUT...my local club is going DCC, and I have my somewhat ancient Spectrum 2-8-0 that I'm planning on converting with a Tsunami sound decoder (might as well go all the way, eh?) That presents me with the idea to use the 0-8-0 as a pusher for the 2-8-0 on point, with both being DCC. I have read that the older motors are not DCC friendly in the least bit, so is there a can motor anyone would recommend, or, for that matter, has anyone attempted putting DCC in an old AHM/Rivarossi loco?
(I have been converted to the DCC side, I fear, as sound is what I've always wanted and playing around with fellow club members' sound equipped locos is not healthy...)
--Rio Grande--Thru the Rockies
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 Posted - April 21 2012 : 3:37:30 PM
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Archi, what version 0-8-0 is it? There were about 5 different drive arrangements over the years.
I successfully mounted a CD spindle motor in the latest type, which had the vertically mounted round motor in the cab. Spindle motors have very long shafts, so it was long enough to reach the axle gear. I used the NWSL regearing kit in combination, because the motor would have been too weak and speedy without it, but it runs like a jewel.
The cab mounted motor is more difficult, because of the extremely low mounted gearbox input shaft.
The Tyco Depot
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Posted - April 21 2012 : 4:53:37 PM
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Nelson has nailed it again! It does depend the drive. One member has taken the old motor from one and replaced with a CD-Rom motor and NWSL makes regear kits for the horizontal versions. As the other ones, who knows! Could try micro-loco-motion.com.
" Heck with counting 'em rivets, TRAINS ARE FOR FUN! Not called the Mad Scientist for nothing either!"
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Posted - April 21 2012 : 7:48:03 PM
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Again, I second that Nelsons right! The vertical motor is difficult! (I have taken and retro fitted a Rivarossi 0-8-0 that had a vertical mounted motor with that of a cab mounted horizontal motor. BUT as said the shaft out of the gear box, is really low......BUT can be done, I'm mounting the shaft to the factory motor and then mounting the original gear box to the motor casing, and then will couple regualrly as Rivarossi had done it and I am using a record player motor that will fit, (but bearly) into the cab as the factory one did, with alittle "breathing room, and not stick out past the cab rear as the factory one did.
I do alot of repowers.......have a look at my website in my signature! 
~John
Many have tried to, and failed, ya just can't repair stupid... 
Do NOT try to Idiot-Proof anything!!!! God, will simply create a better......IDIOT!
Edited by - EM-1 on April 21 2012 9:41:52 PM
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Posted - April 21 2012 : 9:20:58 PM
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Oops, I should have proofread better. I meant to say I replaced the round vertically mounted motor in the boiler, not the cab. The original motor worked okay with the new gearing, but it vibrated from the higher RPM's.
The Tyco Depot
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Posted - April 22 2012 : 9:40:23 PM
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It is indeed the newer one with the vertically mounted motor in the boiler. CD spindle motors? I might have a source for one of those. It looks like I'll finally have to get a puller, too...might as well, as much "upgrade" tinkering as I like doing.
For DCC, would I have to do anything special to isolate the spindle motor? I can't tell from the diagram if it would be isolated or not without any special insulation.
Now I just have to find the time to do this conversion...
--Rio Grande--Thru the Rockies
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Posted - April 22 2012 : 10:33:36 PM
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No, the new motor doesn't need any isolation. The original motor can be isolated simply by removing the grounding strap attached to one of the brushes.
To get the original gear off the motor, a puller won't do it, because Rivarossi worms are an extremely tight fit. I use an old pair of wire strippers like these:
Trap the shaft in the smallest wire gauge hole that allows it to move freely, rubber band or tie wrap the handles shut, and prop it over the jaws of an open vise. Some really good raps with a hammer on a small enough punch should start to push it out of the worm (heating the worm may help if it's really stuck). Once you've got it started, a puller should be able to do the rest.
The Tyco Depot
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Posted - September 15 2012 : 10:06:53 PM
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Well, I stumbled across some info on the trains.com forums about the amperage draw on the older version with the cab-mounted motor. 0.38 when running, and the poster estimated that 0.1 could be taken off if the huge bulb for the headlight is replaced by an LED. So, compared to a sound-equipped loco, that isn't too bad. I think I'll leave the original motor in it for now, and only replace it if it causes problems. BUT I'm still going to need to get a puller, as when I went to open it up I discovered the gears are quickly turning to gold dust...whoever had it before me did NOT lubricate it enough. So, NWSL regear kit it is...
--Rio Grande--Thru the Rockies
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Posted - September 15 2012 : 11:50:25 PM
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The worm is steel, so the axle gear is what's worn. You might be able to find another set of drivers if you don't want to tackle pulling the gears.
The Tyco Depot
Edited by - NickelPlate759 on September 15 2012 11:54:14 PM
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Posted - September 16 2012 : 12:09:52 AM
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I once fixed a Rivarossi 4-4-0 for a friend, and the axle gear had turned to dust same as yours. There was no lubrication, and the steel worm ground the teeth down to 1/3rd of their original size! I used NWSL gears to get it going again, and the results were fantastic. The regear kit for your 0-8-0 will make it a better and more realistic runner for sure. The tricky part is getting the worm off the motor. And as long as you put the drive wheel back on exactly as it was (after replacing the axle gear), the ribbed axle end should automatically re-quarter it. It works that way for me, at least.
Rivarossi motors are some of the easiest to convert to DCC. Just clip the grounding strap on the one brush (like was already mentioned), and you're good to go!
Darth Santa Fe, doing weird and challenging projects for the fun of it!
Edited by - Darth Santa Fe on September 16 2012 12:10:47 AM
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Posted - September 18 2012 : 01:04:20 AM
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It always amazes me that some people never grease the gearing, then complain that Rivarossi was crap. I can't tell you how often I find them with dry gearing. I find the worst gear wear on the 0-4-0's due to that issue, and/or because the motor has been tilted so that the gearing is over or under-meshed.
The Tyco Depot
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Posted - September 22 2012 : 8:06:46 PM
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Hey Darth, it was your post on the trains.com forums that I found with the amperage info. That was a great review of a classic model! I wish there was more info like that available online. I guess no one cares enough about old models to put in that kind of work. I like older steam cause they're less generic than the newer glut of USRA types. Plus, when you're running on a club's modular layout at shows, all that prototypical detail tends to "disappear." Give me some molded-on detail and drybrushing any day.
--Rio Grande--Thru the Rockies
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Posted - April 28 2013 : 9:17:09 PM
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I remotored my original Riv 2-8-0 I bought new in '65 or '66. Maybe as late as early '67.
Tender mounted motor, frame exploded while in storage for 40 years, which held the bottom part of the gear reduction
In have the Menzies Machine Shop driveshaft and u-joints in it when stored.
NWSL, and Sagami on a new brass tender floor. I can post photos if you like.
I did the series on the Yahoo remotor and repower group a couple three years ago.
Runs FAR better than it ever did.
Dave
This is the chassis with the NWSL installed.
Top view.
New tender floor, of brass.
Motor installed on new tender floor.
Dave
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