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Posted - April 15 2011 : 11:51:57 PM
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greetings all,
been reading the forum for a while as when I return from my tour overseas I plan to build a tyco based layout in my garage, and do a few other things at my club. I have to say this forum has been a gold mine of information on resurecting an old memory of mine, and giving me ideas on some head turning at open house at my club, but I have a few questions...
flange depth on steam and diesel locos: IIRC the flanges on Tyco engines and cars were deep (cars not a problem as I body mount couplers and replace the trucks on my non collecting cars) is there a NWSL (or equivilant) replacement for the PT drive that has shallow flanges?
for the steam locos (0-8-0/2-8-0) again same question but for the locomotive and not the tender
repowering: ok I have seen many CD/DVD/PS2 motors that are used for the PT rebuilds/upgrades, but I plan to run a pair of centuries at the club, obviously they will pull long trains (25+ cars) so my idea is dual motoring the centuries, will the motors "match" in speed if i find several sources, say one motor from a CD player, one motor from a computer DVD drive etc.
on the steam engines I have already played with some ideas, I converted one 0-8-0 to a 2-8-0 by putting a bowser bachmann conversion in the loco and a bachmann 44 ton chassis in the tender...I was trying to make a good puller and while the weird combo matched in speed, it was a maintenence nightmare...may just go with another 44 ton drive in the tender and leave it at that OR...
placing a NWSL "flea" motor in the engine, but that brings the question of pulling again, I'd like my steamers to at least pull a decent local, so suggestions on that and/or replacing said flanged drivers...
OR...
converting the tender to NWSL's PDT drive (they are under a new name now for the drive, but it escapes me) and weighing the tender down but again I am overseas and no hobby shop around so I cant remember the wheelbase for a decent tender truck 
anyway those are my current queries, I appreciate any and all help in my endeavor!
just me Ray... and just because I have Tyco doesn't mean I am not a model railroader
Edited by - rgcw5 on April 15 2011 11:54:37 PM
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Posted - April 16 2011 : 9:43:13 PM
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quote:greetings all,
I have a few questions...
flange depth on steam and diesel locos: IIRC the flanges on Tyco engines and cars were deep ... is there a NWSL (or equivilant) replacement for the PT drive that has shallow flanges?
repowering: so my idea is dual motoring the centuries, will the motors "match" in speed if i find several sources, say one motor from a CD player, one motor from a computer DVD drive etc.
anyway those are my current queries, I appreciate any and all help in my endeavor!
Originally posted by rgcw5Â -Â April 15 2011Â :Â 11:51:57 PM
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Tyco will run on Code 100 and 83. Only if you're going to run on 70 or 55 will you have problems, I'd think. The standard Tyco track, which I believe is 100, or even aftermarket 83, should be sufficient to run them. If you insist on using the smaller rails, then you will probably have a problem.
Far as matching motors, unless you run DCC / decoder MU'ing, you will probably not have an easy time matching motors, it's hard without using the Decoders which can be programmed to maximize efficiency between motors. Just analog operations will be tough, I've heard. You can probably get a variable resistor to help match loads on the motors, but that may only solve part of the problem. Others here will probably know more than me about this problem.
Hope you get back to the States ( and model railroading ) soon.
Jerry in Virginia
" When life throws you bananas...it's easy to slip up"
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Posted - April 16 2011 : 9:51:56 PM
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Your best matches will always be from the same source. Find a place that specializes in used computer parts, they'd probably get a kick out of helping you out when they find out what it's for. Wire the motors in parallel, including a jumper from one engine to the other. That will help you do the best you can for matching them up. This will only work in DC mode. In DCC, you'd have a chip for each motor---wired separately---, there you could match the speeds up with the CV modes, but then you're talking about serious tedium...
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Posted - April 16 2011 : 10:55:25 PM
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Ah yes! that makes sense on the motors shaygetz, didn't even think of wiring them in parralell. as long as they are close, I can live with one a scosh slower than the other
Both my layout and my club ar DC, though the logging/branchline is DCC now but I don't forsee running some ex N&W centuries up a NG logging branch (though that definately would be an attention getter)
@AMC, aha! I knew I wasn't hallucinating on flange depth! I know I will probably go with the 83 or 100 at the house, but the club is another story, the yard track is 70 and NWSL is not the most descriptive on their website i should be back home @ November BTW
just me Ray... and just because I have Tyco doesn't mean I am not a model railroader
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Posted - April 16 2011 : 10:59:25 PM
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" Tyco will run on Code 100 and 83" Originally posted by AMC_Gremlin_GT - In my experience with Tyco on code 83 Atlas - You can get tie tapping and definitely get derailments on switches and cross overs. I have been told PECO code 83 is slightly higher rail height than Atlas' brand and a better performer. Tyco locomotives and most other 70's 80's and older equipment will run without problems on code 100 track. Most clubs in my area run code 100 track. I sold off all my code 83 and switched back to code 100 so i could run my older stuff. Just my 2 cents. A lot of my newer trains derailed on code 83 atlas track switches and cross overs also
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Posted - April 17 2011 : 12:22:38 AM
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quote:" Tyco will run on Code 100 and 83" Originally posted by AMC_Gremlin_GT - In my experience with Tyco on code 83 Atlas - You can get tie tapping and definitely get derailments on switches and cross overs. I have been told PECO code 83 is slightly higher rail height than Atlas' brand and a better performer. Tyco locomotives and most other 70's 80's and older equipment will run without problems on code 100 track. Most clubs in my area run code 100 track. I sold off all my code 83 and switched back to code 100 so i could run my older stuff. Just my 2 cents. A lot of my newer trains derailed on code 83 atlas track switches and cross overs also
Originally posted by Brianstyco - April 16 2011 : 10:59:25 PM
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IIRC Peco is actually code 85 or some obscure size, my club has some track like that for sidings.
your right though most clubs do have code 100 my club has 100 for the main and 70 for the yard and our branchline (where it seems my trains seem to spend most of their time)
just me Ray... and just because I have Tyco doesn't mean I am not a model railroader
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