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 Posted - March 28 2011 : 5:51:16 PM
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I apologize in advance if this has been discussed before, but i am trying to figure out how to wire the turnouts to the remote switches i have. I did a search on the forum here, but didn't come up with anything. Could be do to my lack of proper terminology. At any rate, I have some tyco switch controllers that i want to wire onto my turnouts. The switch controllers have three terminals and the turnouts have 3 wires. I'm assuming that one wire goes to each terminal, as well as, a wire coming from the transformer to the switch controller for power. i just don't know which wire goes where. Any insight would be greatly appreciate. Thanks in advance for your help. And, my apologies if this has been discussed before.
Jason
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Posted - March 28 2011 : 6:16:21 PM
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I use Atlas one but they work the same. The wires go Red, Black, Green. If the switch is not in the right position to match the control swap the green and the red at the switch.
The center wire is a negative. The outside two are both positive. The switch machine has a solenoid in it that moves based on what direction is activated.
If you need a long run of wire the cheapest that I have found is 4 conductor telephone wire. Radio Shack sells 50ft spools for ~$7. The phone line has a red, green, black and yellow in it. I just cut the yellow off shorter than the rest so that it is out of the way.
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Posted - March 28 2011 : 6:48:25 PM
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Thank you. Just to make sure i have this right...red/green from the turnout go to either of the outside termnals on the switch controller (my wires are yellow, red and green). The center wire from the turnout then goes to the center terminal on the switch controller. Does the wire from the transformer (AC) then go the the center terminal on the switch controller as well? That is how I tried wiring it, and nothing happened? i'm assuming once the switch is wired on, it is just a matter of putting the switch to either side, or does the switch then have to be compressed? Thanks again.
Jason
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Posted - March 28 2011 : 7:41:08 PM
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quote:Thank you. Just to make sure i have this right... Does the wire from the transformer (AC) then go the the center terminal on the switch controller as well? That is how I tried wiring it, and nothing happened?
Jason
Originally posted by Findoggy - March 28 2011 : 6:48:25 PM
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Uh, no, Jason, AC is NOT used to run the switches, DC voltage is. How can the switch "switch", if the AC is moving voltage first one way, then another? Switch operation is DC volts only. That's why you have two DC hots and a ground, forces it either way when properly wired. Hopefully nothing was damaged with the low voltage AC.
Jerry
" When life throws you bananas...it's easy to slip up"
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Posted - March 29 2011 : 06:05:58 AM
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Well, that's not good. I was at a local train meet this weekend and I specifically asked one of the vendors there how I would wire up the power to the switches, because I was thinking of getting a different transformer. He told me to wire it up to the AC terminals. Ok, so I need to wire it to DC. My little Life-like transformer only has 2 DC terminals where the wires attach from the tracks. Is it ok to just attach the power wire to one of those terminals from the switches? Thanks again for the help...hope the switch isn't toast.
Jason
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Posted - March 29 2011 : 06:42:52 AM
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well, I stand corrected. I had to go out and double-check my advice, and apparently switch machines ARE supposed to use Accessory AC voltage at 16v. But it seems to depend on the switch type, some use a capacitor for more umph. Others use DC voltage, or can use either. Apparently it depends on the switch type, and how the little motor is designed to operate.  Apparently Atlas switches can use either in some cases.
Some advice I read is to use a separate power pack for the switches and accessories, because it'll rob the train of power on the track. Others say to get a capacitive discharge type of power to force the switches to operate better. Sometimes they're just burned up and useless, if you got them used. I guess first off, you need to test your Tyco switches without any other power drains to see if they do work. Could be they're just shot. Seems like alot of the advice on switches is rather vague, I guess all the experts "assume" everyone knows what voltage to hook up to them. I thought I did... Apparently there is more than one way to power these critters.
" When life throws you bananas...it's easy to slip up"
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Posted - March 29 2011 : 06:45:59 AM
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Here's a link that might help---I better read it myself! 
http://www.nmra.org/beginner/to_control.html
Jerry
" When life throws you bananas...it's easy to slip up"
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Posted - March 29 2011 : 07:27:52 AM
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Thanks Jerry. These switches were purchased used. I have tried wiring two of them up with no luck yet. Either they are both burned up, or I didn't know what I was doing. I'll keep fiddling with them. Am I correct in assuming that power will be going to the switches no matter whether the current is turned up or off on the transformer? Perhaps I should look into another power source. I just have the little Life-like one that came with my set.
Again, thanks.
Jason
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Posted - March 29 2011 : 07:43:02 AM
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quote:Thanks Jerry. These switches were purchased used. Am I correct in assuming that power will be going to the switches no matter whether the current is turned up or off on the transformer? Perhaps I should look into another power source. I just have the little Life-like one that came with my set.
Again, thanks.
Jason
Originally posted by Findoggy - March 29 2011 : 07:27:52 AM
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It's possible the power of the little transformer isn't enough. It SHOULD put out Accessory voltage no matter the throtte setting, it's a constant output.
Those switches were notorious for being easily burned up, since once hooked up, they get a constant voltage going to them, and it'd burn up the fine wiring eventually. Most experienced guys would create an intermittent switch to just power it when needed. What you really need is a volt-ohm meter, to check your switch continuity, and voltage. If you have a harbor freight store nearby, you can usually get a cheap $5 meter there that'll work. Or some auto parts stores have $4 / 7 bins with items like that in it. Be a good investment for troubleshooting.
You could just have bad switches at this point. It's hard to say without troubleshooting more effectively. Just keep tinkering is the only solution at this point.
Jerry
" When life throws you bananas...it's easy to slip up"
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Posted - March 29 2011 : 09:50:16 AM
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Jerry,
I have a multimeter. I did measure voltage coming out of the AC terminal and it appeared fine. I want to say it was around 16-18 volts. I also attempted to check for continuity at the switch, but wasn't quite sure how to do it. Would I just put a probe on one each of the outer two terminals (where there are three in a row) and move the switch side to side to see what happens? Sorry for all of the questions. Oh yeah, when you move the switch side to side, do you have to depress the switch for continuity, or is it just with the side to side motion.
Thanks,
jason
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Posted - March 29 2011 : 10:46:19 AM
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Hi Jerry,
Thank you for the link for wiring I have been looking for that info for some time.
Thanks again.
Ken
FIDDLEHEAD RAILWAY CO.
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Posted - March 29 2011 : 6:57:22 PM
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quote:Jerry,
I have a multimeter. I did measure voltage ... it was around 16-18 volts. I also attempted to check for continuity at the switch, but wasn't quite sure how to do it. Would I just put a probe on one each of the outer two terminals (where there are three in a row) and move the switch side to side to see what happens? Sorry for all of the questions. Oh yeah, when you move the switch side to side, do you have to depress the switch for continuity, or is it just with the side to side motion.
Thanks,
jason
Originally posted by Findoggy - March 29 2011 : 09:50:16 AM
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Sounds like voltage is good. Do NOT have voltage hooked up when using Ohm/resistance checks! Especially with cheap meters. Take the wires off from the transformer first. I'm not sure about depressing the switch, I'd say maybe. They're called "snap" switches, because they snap and switch the rails. Not sure if they maintain continuity after that. I'd Say hook i tup to the center and one end contact, then move it back and forth, with the meter set on Ohms / low resistance, and see if you get a reading, even intermittently. I think you can move them manually. I'll pull out some of my own TYco switches tonight, and run some checks on them too. I'm honestly not sure how a snap switch will react to an ohmmeter, so being an Electronics Tech, I should be able to figure it out. Not that I know everything, but I tend to play with everything I can. LOL. I'll let you know what I find out with my switches later.
Jerry
" When life throws you bananas...it's easy to slip up"
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Posted - March 29 2011 : 8:55:26 PM
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| I have attempted to use the Life Like and Bachman kit packs. The have the volts but not the amps needed to run both the train and the switches. If you hook a light to the ac terminals you will see it dim slightly as the DC throttle is increased. Those little boxes just do not have much to go on. I would recommend upgrading to a better transformer. Does not need to be huge, a Railpower 1300 is great for basic DC. The old Life Like one then can be dedicated to accessories if you like or the larger one will have the power to do all you need.
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Posted - March 29 2011 : 9:44:20 PM
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Ok, I dug out one of my 25 cent Tyco switches I just got a few weeks ago at a show, a steel track #411 left-hand turnout. I stripped the green, red and yellow wires back a bit, and touched it briefly to the AC terminals, yellow and red, then yellow and green. Snap! snap! Works fine. Dug out my Fluke 77 multimeter, and put it on Ohms. You won't get anything between the green and red, yellow is common. Doesn't matter which position the switch was in, Ohm-ing between yellow and red and then yellow and green, I get 0 / zero ohms on both sides. Mine has the colored wires coming out of it, some have screw-in wire holder terminals.
So, mine works with AC Accessory voltage, it's zero ohms between the middle contact and either side. If you aren't getting zero ohms with yours, then the switch motor is probably shot.
Hope this helps you diagnose your switches.
Jerry
" When life throws you bananas...it's easy to slip up"
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Posted - March 29 2011 : 10:24:39 PM
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Gentlemen, thank you all for your help. My father gave me an old (30 some years) atlas train booklet he had and it showed how to wire up the switch controller. I didn't have the power hooked up correctly. Now everything works like it should and my son was SO VERY excited (I got several, "I love you Daddy's" from him...he's 6yo). With my switch controllers you do have to slide the switch to the side and then depress it to activate the switch. When you just slide it to the side, nothing happens. Again, thanks for all of your help. I'm going to pick up some extra wire tomorrow to wire the rest of the turnouts!!!!
Jason
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