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 How to blacken metal parts?
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New_York_Central
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 Posted - February 08 2011 :  9:53:02 PM Link directly to this topic  Show Profile  Add New_York_Central to Buddylist
Has anyone ever blackened tyco mantua valve gear? Any ideas how to do this with success?
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RDC1
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 Posted - February 08 2011 :  9:59:29 PM Link directly to this reply  Show Profile  Add RDC1 to Buddylist
Yes, I use kits from Eastwood to blacken antique bicycle parts, like the rear cogs. Gun owners use this same process.

http://www.eastwood.com/specialty-coatings/metal-blackening.html?srccode=ga130080&gclid=CJmMlJaK-qYCFYrt7QoddjcHsg

~ Dave

They're ALL toys

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smokie
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smokie

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 Posted - February 09 2011 :  1:33:59 PM Link directly to this reply  Show Profile  Add smokie to Buddylist
if it is steel, i use gun blue. if it has chrome on it, it might need to be removed.
jerry
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microbusss
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 Posted - February 09 2011 :  2:51:48 PM Link directly to this reply  Show Profile  Add microbusss to Buddylist
hehe I was just gonna use some cheap flat black spray paint on my old Red Box UP combine's trucks
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farace
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 Posted - February 09 2011 :  3:24:44 PM Link directly to this reply  Show Profile  Add farace to Buddylist
quote:
hehe I was just gonna use some cheap flat black spray paint on my old Red Box UP combine's trucks

Originally posted by microbusss - February 09 2011 :  2:51:48 PM



Even cheaper and easier, use a Sharpie. You don't have to shake it for a minute first. :)

(To be honest, I use a silver Sharpie for coloring wheel treads and cast-on grabs.)
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DaCheez
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 Posted - February 09 2011 :  3:55:43 PM Link directly to this reply  Show Profile  Click to see DaCheez's MSN Messenger address  Add DaCheez to Buddylist
quote:
Even cheaper and easier, use a Sharpie. You don't have to shake it for a minute first. :)

(To be honest, I use a silver Sharpie for coloring wheel treads and cast-on grabs.)


I've used silver and black Sharpies to touch up the paint on various Tyco engines/cars (among other things). I don't think I've ever used them on metal parts (like the valve gear), but it's worth a shot.
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farace
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 Posted - February 11 2011 :  12:03:23 AM Link directly to this reply  Show Profile  Add farace to Buddylist
quote:
quote:
Even cheaper and easier, use a Sharpie. You don't have to shake it for a minute first. :)

(To be honest, I use a silver Sharpie for coloring wheel treads and cast-on grabs.)


I've used silver and black Sharpies to touch up the paint on various Tyco engines/cars (among other things). I don't think I've ever used them on metal parts (like the valve gear), but it's worth a shot.

Originally posted by DaCheez - February 09 2011 :  3:55:43 PM



I was being very tongue-in-cheek, since MB commented about the spray paint. The blackening mentioned earlier in the thread is a chemical process rather than a paint. If I remember correctly from back when my dad was going to set up tanks and start a gun blueing business, it's actually closely related to rust.
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spiderj76
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 Posted - February 11 2011 :  08:34:43 AM Link directly to this reply  Show Profile  Add spiderj76 to Buddylist
Sharpie is still an ink, and won't adhere well to unprimered metal; the smoother the surface, the greater the tendency to rub off. If applied to bare zinc parts, the moisture content of the ink can also cause pest.

That said, sharpies are excellent touch-up tools on plastics and painted surfaces. I use them extensively. The majority of assorted HO cars on this page were "painted" with sharpies (a few with paint of course).

http://goingincirclez.com/Lucidity/Automodels

I also recall that blackening treatments are not really paint, and actually induce a chemical reaction in the metal similar to rust. A different type of oxidation. You generally can't "remove" the treatment once it's applied, short of removing the metal itself. I'm sure it's a little more nuanced than that, but that's my nutshell recollection. I bought some blackening treatment for rails and it worked OK, but didn't give the final result I was looking for - seemed a little too dark gray as opposed to brownish oxide - the color is probably great for valve gear, but I never thought to try it on that...

Edited by - spiderj76 on February 11 2011 08:36:22 AM
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derfberger
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 Posted - February 14 2011 :  8:31:00 PM Link directly to this reply  Show Profile  Add derfberger to Buddylist
[

I also recall that blackening treatments are not really paint, and actually induce a chemical reaction in the metal similar to rust. A different type of oxidation. You generally can't "remove" the treatment once it's applied, short of removing the metal itself. I'm sure it's a little more nuanced than that, but that's my nutshell recollection. I bought some blackening treatment for rails and it worked OK, but didn't give the final result I was looking for - seemed a little too dark gray as opposed to brownish oxide - the color is probably great for valve gear, but I never thought to try it on that...

true depending on the chemical you are oxidizing the surface of the metal. Rust is a form of iron oxide. bluing is another form of Iron oxide.

Go to a stained glass store and they have chemicals to produce a black and copper oxide
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Brianstyco
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 Posted - March 25 2013 :  06:51:02 AM Link directly to this reply  Show Profile  Add Brianstyco to Buddylist
I have used this - From A West - bought at a train show several years back - works great. it is poisonous - so keep away from your pets and kids. Have even used it to blacken metal parts on vehicles - IE - wiper arms

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EM-1
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 Posted - March 26 2013 :  05:10:24 AM Link directly to this reply  Show Profile  Click to see EM-1's MSN Messenger address  Send EM-1 a Yahoo! Message  Add EM-1 to Buddylist
Well, to give a cheaper alternative..........I visit the local "Stained Glass Store" pick up some Black Patina, made for Brass, Chrome, Zink, LEAD!, and just about any other metal! Costs about $6.00 a bottle, and sad thing is, you need a DIFFERENT type for each metal, you can EVEN get it for Aluminum, AND Copper! and is pretty much the same thing shown above as "Blacken-it" and works much the same way! I might add, it LASTS a LONG time, a 6 ounce or so, bottle full!

Hope this helps!

~John

Many have tried to, and failed, ya just can't repair stupid...

Do NOT try to Idiot-Proof anything!!!! God, will simply create a better......IDIOT!
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