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 Posted - October 23 2010 : 01:36:05 AM
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I just dug out from my childhood my 1977 Tyco train set (Burlington Northern set) and tried to set up for my soon-to-be 2 year old to show him some old school fun.
Unfortunately I got it all set up and when I turned the switch, I didn't get the train running. What was odd was that when I turned it on forward or backwards, the light would go on, but no movement, so I can tell that the electricity is getting to the train. This makes me believe I can rule out the power pack.
Anyways, would love any suggestions or if anyone has any tips to try. I can post pics if needed.
Thanks in advance!
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Posted - October 23 2010 : 06:23:25 AM
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hi jeffcortez,if this is first time loco has been used for a long time chances are all the lubrication has solidified,and would benefit from a complete clean out and re lubing ken
what would be handy is a photo of the underside to determine what drive you have in the loco
Edited by - catfordken on October 23 2010 06:31:36 AM
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Posted - October 23 2010 : 08:05:49 AM
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quote:I just dug out,,,my 1977 Tyco train set
Unfortunately ... when I turned the switch, I didn't get the train running. What was odd was that when I turned it on forward or backwards, the light would go on, but no movement,
Anyways, would love any suggestions or if anyone has any tips to try. I can post pics if needed.
Originally posted by jeffcortez - October 23 2010 : 01:36:05 AM
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Pictures always help, Jeff. How "mechanical" are your abilities? These are simple electrical devices, you can take them apart easily if you know how. Anyway, with the light coming on, but not running it's one of two things. The power wire to the motor broke, or the motor is stuck,and needs some cleaning and relube to free it up. First off, to remove the motor to check, most Tyco engines have the front and rear trucks snap in, with little rectangular nubs on the sides. Pry the engine shell apart gently,and remove a truck, first one side, then the other, is easiest. Sometimes they run the power wire above the center weight, and you will have both trucks dangling. They ALSO sometimes glue the weight in, as well as it also snaps in, so you can break the shell if you're not careful IF you try to remove the weight. Easier to work on with it out, but you need patience, an old butter knife to break the glue loose, and then it should come out. I just split one of the 3 side tab openings trying to break the glue loose on an old C&O F7 unit, the wire had broken to the motor, but the light came on. Same problem as you have. ONce I fixed the wire with solder, and lubed the motor it ran fine.
Anyway, once the motor and non-powered truck are dangling, you can work on them both, and see if the wires are broken, if not, then using your power pack wires, touch both connections to the motor DIRECTLY, and see if it moves. You may need a toothpick or something soft to try and spin the armature to see if it's bound up, or just needs a "bump" to get it going. Avoid hard tools around the armature, you can damage the wiring insulation. If the motor still won't turn over directly, then there's some major issues with it. Usually cleaning the brushes and contacts will help, if it's still good. If the gears have jammed, that's another issue, too. Depends on the type of motor you have, either a flat rectangular metal one (PT), or what they called an "open frame" type with the armature visible and spinning between two metal plates (MU-2), which is a much older '60's type.
Anyway, get some pics posted, don't be afraid to take it apart, just be careful and go slow to avoid breaking tabs off. Keep us posted on your progress. We like to see these old engines running again. :)
Jerry in Virginia
" When life throws you bananas...it's easy to slip up"
Edited by - AMC_Gremlin_GT on October 23 2010 08:07:51 AM
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