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 Posted - September 05 2010 : 1:45:58 PM
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Hey all,
This is what I have for Tyco locomotives. Keep in mind, all are a work in progress
My Alco C-630 in Santa Fe livery. It actually runs, just cleaning it up. It came with black plastic handrails
Santa Fe freight GP-38(?) coversion to dummy. Needs handrails
Another Geep converted to a dummy unit. Needs glass
This is my C430 that I've been having all the problems with..
When I was cleaning the motor, I lost one of the brush springs . I had a ton of trouble resoldering the wires. Still don't think I did it right. This one came with metal handrails
This is my C430 in Illinios Central/Gulf livery. It was in pretty rough shape when I got it. It deosn't run...yet. It'll get a good cleaning, a repaint, and new IC decals.
Spirit of '76 C630. Needs parts.
Have to replace a broken drive wheel, needs new brush springs, also have to replace the rear side trucks, and could use new decals as well. Anyone make them? Also came with metal handrails
Tyco/Mantua F-7 rebuild. Runs, but as you can see, needs the side trucks put back on, plus a paintjob and new decals.
Tyco/Mantua Spirit of '76 F-7 (?) Runs good, noisy as heck. Just needs some glass and some cleanup.
Anyway, thats it folks. I'm always on the lookout for "new" Tyco locomotives, both for
parts and restoration.
Keep you posted........
Cheers, Ian
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Posted - September 05 2010 : 3:08:55 PM
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| Hi - The Super 630 spirit of 76 with no stars is a RARE one you have. I have only seen one listed on ebay recently that was sold with 3 others.
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Posted - September 05 2010 : 3:27:16 PM
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| Is the blue & yellow Santa Fe a Tyco unit?
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Posted - September 05 2010 : 3:39:26 PM
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zerosen
You know, I double checked, and its actually a Life Like engine. My bad
I didn't realize that some 630s came without stars. Never occured to me to look.
The 1776 on the rear needs to be replaced. That decal is worn on both sides. the Presidetial logo is cracked and chipping
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Posted - September 06 2010 : 2:43:14 PM
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Some nice projects you've got going there! You should get some sweet engines out of all that
BTW, I think both of your "3500" Santa Fe engines are Life Like. Same with the Spirit of 76 F7. Still cool though
OH, and welcome to the forum!
cheez
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Posted - September 06 2010 : 3:21:49 PM
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cracked & chipping you say? Well can't be any worse than mine
course mine is the rare Prez Seal before the change
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Posted - September 06 2010 : 8:32:43 PM
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It seems that the Presidential logo decal was not made to last.
BTW, the Santa Fe 630 was cleaned, and during reassembly, I broke a wire, resoldered it, and guess what.......now it doesn't run
Frustrating......
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Posted - September 06 2010 : 10:29:18 PM
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| hehe sounds like you soldered it wrong somewhere
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Posted - September 07 2010 : 01:18:50 AM
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Fortunately this is a pretty easy wiring setup. There will be a single wire coming from the rear truck. Make sure its connection at the rear truck is tight and there is no corrosion beneath the terminal eyelet. Remove the screw holding it to the rear truck and take a look. If any corrosion or discoloration is present, clean it off with some fine sandpaper or electric contact cleaner. Reinstall and make sure the connection is tight.
Follow the same wire forward to the copper strip in the cab that holds the headlight bulb. There should be two wires soldered to the copper strip-the one coming from the rear truck and other that goes to the copper strip on the forward truck that covers the rear motor brush & spring-it is on the left side towards the upper rear of the truck. Consider this solder point to be at the 12 o'clock position. The other copper strip is for the forward motor brush & spring. It is below and forward of the other one-at about 8 o'clock. This will have a wire soldered to it as well, and it will run to the rear of the headlight bulb.
Make sure the headlight bulb is clipped securely into the copper strip, and that the wire is soldered to the rear of the bulb. On some models, if the headlight bulb is burned out, the motor will not run. Check your wiring & see if it is configured this way. Does the headlight illuminate when the locomotive is placed on the track & power applied?
Edited by - a6m5zerosen on September 07 2010 01:20:47 AM
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Posted - September 07 2010 : 01:31:10 AM
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If your wiring is configured correctly, insure that the forward truck has two brushes, two brush springs, and two brass eyelets in the armature cover. If any of these parts are missing or damaged, the motor will not run. It is possible that the armature surface may need to be cleaned and the brushes cleaned and/or replaced. Always use flux when you solder-it will make for a much better connection. After the soldering is complete & cooled, clean the solder joint with a brush & some alcohol-it should be clean & shiny when you're done. The joint should not appear as a dull silver, grainy texture.
Edited by - a6m5zerosen on September 07 2010 01:35:47 AM
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Posted - September 07 2010 : 06:34:40 AM
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quote:... Always use flux when you solder-it will make for a much better connection. .
Originally posted by a6m5zerosen - September 07 2010 : 01:31:10 AM
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Do you use liquid flux, and if so, where do you buy it retail?
Jerry
" When life throws you bananas...it's easy to slip up"
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Posted - September 07 2010 : 6:00:25 PM
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zerosen,
I will check it tonight and get back to you. Thanks for the info
Cheers, Ian
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Posted - September 08 2010 : 12:44:19 PM
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| I am an aircraft electrician by trade, as well as a NASA certified solderer, and have been soldering for many years. There are many different kinds of flux out there-avoid the paste type entirely. Most liquid flux has pine oil in it & will smell like fresh pine trees or wood when heated. Usually this is a brown color, and works very well. I just bought a clear flux at the train store called "TIX FLUX" which works well too. Ideally, both items to be soldered should be "tinned" prior to attempting to solder, meaning it will already have a very very thin layer of solder on it. Since most of our locomotives will have already been soldered at the factory, this is usually accomplished already, except that most factory jobs have far too much solder on them to begin with. Solder is not glue, and the more the better rule does not apply here. To properly re-solder a wire to, for example, a copper or brass motor brush strip (as most Tyco locomotives have), first remove the part to be soldered from any plastic parts it may be attached to-it can & will get hot enough to melt plastic. Buy some "solder wick" at any Radio Shack-it is a thin flexible copper braid. Place it on top of the old solder, and then the soldering iron on top of the wick. Sometimes it takes 30 seconds or so, but you will see the copper wick beginning to turn silver as the solder flows into it. Remove it periodically to check your progress-it won't take long. Use an acid brush or a cheap model paint brush and clean the area with alcohol, then apply your flux-just a drop will do. Cut off the old, previously soldered end of the wire just enough to get to clean, fresh wire. Strip the insulation, trying not to cut any of the strands of copper, no more that a quarter of an inch. Add one drop of flux. and then place the wire in contact with the tip of the iron, and feed in the solder-a tiny amout will do what you want. You will see the solder flow into the wire & it will turn shiny silver & rigid. Let it cool, then place the wire and the surface it is to be soldered to together in the position you wish them to be in when finished. It is best for the wire to be parallel to & in contact with the strip-do not try to solder it at a 45 degree angle. Put a drop of flux on the two parts together and apply the tip of the iron to the area where the two parts touch eaach other. You will see the flux bubble as it heats-it's supposed to. Feed the solder into the joint where the two parts meet-you are creating a "solder bridge" for heat transfer. Very quickly it will melt & flow into the joint. You do not need to make a mound of solder to get a good joint-it just needs to be smooth, shiny, & cover the joint. Remove the iron & let it cool, and do not move it when you do this! This is the biggest mistake beginners make. It is called a "disturbed solder joint" and weakens the connection. A disturbed joint will turn from a shiny silver to a dull, grainy grey. It only takes a 10 seconds or so to cool. After it is cool, get your alcohol & brush & clean the finished joint to remove the flux residue-it can be sticky. Now you have a good strong connection that will last the life of the locomotive.
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Posted - September 12 2010 : 8:17:26 PM
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UPDATE!!!!
Worked on the Santa Fe 630 today and got it running. Had the wheels reversed in the rear truck. Wiring was OK.
Got it put back together and ran it for a few minutes.
Runs ok, it just needs some track time to stretch her legs
Now on to the others....
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