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 Posted - June 25 2010 : 10:17:41 PM
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I just purchased a box set of the Choo Choo, train, cars track and accessories. Looks un used, all boxes pristine
When trying to run it the tender wheels spin not pulling anything. I give it a nudge and it moves a few feet and stops. I clean the steel track--no luck
I clean the wheels no luck
I notice the plastic drive wheels are grooved. Is this normal or is it from spinning over time?
any way i can develop traction?
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steve
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Posted - June 25 2010 : 11:05:57 PM
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| maybe you need traction tires for the rive wheels?
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steve
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Posted - June 25 2010 : 11:08:47 PM
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| I meant drive wheels
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Posted - June 25 2010 : 11:18:09 PM
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| I just thought of this after I responded to your other post--I'll bet you need traction tires. I'm not entirely familiar with that locomotive (I mostly run diesels) but someone here will verify that. Usually a groove in the wheel means a traction tire was supposed to go there. It's an easy fix, you just have to find the right tire.
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Posted - June 26 2010 : 09:35:50 AM
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Hi - Brian here - very familiar with Tyco steam locomotives - First - it is not Junk!!! . Yes - you need traction tires for those grooves - Good thing as they can still be purchased - There is a company called Calumet that makes these traction tires for old Tyco locomotives. They use to be called Stewart products. The good thing about both companies is the product numbers remained the same during the name change. Stewart products is no longer made but may still be available as old new stock - Calumet is readily available - The product number you need is Calumet 192-515 - if you can find these in Stewart - the number is the same.
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Posted - June 26 2010 : 10:24:24 AM
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a number 42 or 47 "O" rings (i can't remember which) works very well too & you can get around 20 of them at lowes for a couple of dollars. thats what i put on all of mine now. their cheap & work very well.
jerry
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Posted - June 26 2010 : 10:26:13 PM
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thanks all
yep i need new tires
Been around model trains all my life, never knew about tires until now.
I'll give the O ring a shot first before ordering
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Posted - June 28 2010 : 10:43:24 PM
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Bought both # 5 and # 42 O rings. crazy numbering systems
Ended up using #5 which are 1/4 I D. The 42 were 7/32 I D and too hard to slip over the wheel.
Since the tender powers the engine everything worked fine going backwards.
next problem when the tender pushes the engine then i keep getting derails both engine and tender. Any suggestions? I'm thinking of buying the 192-515 tire hoping it won't be as thick as the O ring which will expose more flange.
another problem
does anyone have experience with the Baby Ruth choo choo car?
It's so tall and top heavy it keeps tipping over on the curves
thanks in advance
fred
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Posted - June 29 2010 : 06:29:43 AM
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quote:
Since the tender powers the engine everything worked fine going backwards.
next problem when the tender pushes the engine then i keep getting derails both engine and tender. Any suggestions?
I'm thinking ... the 192-515 tire .... won't be as thick as the O ring which will expose more flange. |
Is the tender jackknifing off the track, is that the problem? Might be the o-ring is too large, as you suspect. It should lay down in the groove, with just the top of the 0-ring exposed on the wheel, if you can look at it from the side and not see flange, it's too big. The correct size tire is critical.
quote:
another problem :
does anyone have experience with the Baby Ruth choo choo car?
It's so tall and top heavy it keeps tipping over on the curves
fred
Originally posted by derfberger - June 28 2010 : 10:43:24 PM
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No experience with THAT car, but...part of the problem with the tall cars is they aren't weighted properly, and they tend to tip over. Another is the wobbly trucks they're on, which amplifies the problem. That's a common problem with "toy quality" trains, the trucks aren't steady enough. One solution is wavy washers, not star. they're a specialized type, they're made of thin metal, and are wavy, a type of flat washer with "spring" in it. I've tried it on the trucks of toy trains, and it seems to help dissipate the wobble. Some hardware stores may carry them, but most likely will require ordering from a specialized hardware catalog Adding some additional weight to the car itself low down, like 2-3 ounces, often helps stabilize it, too (glue in about 7 or 8 pennies on each end inside the boxcar). But, if the car is wobbling, you need to stabilize the trucks to prevent it, or it will continue to fall over. Now you're getting into the reasons the hobby shop guys told you to shelf them. No reason they can't be adjusted to work, it just takes some time and perseverance on the modeler's part to make them work correctly. Another solution is to buy good trucks, tap the plastic hole in the boxcar base for a screw, and using a fiber washer, screw the new trucks on until the screw JUST meets some resistance. The wobble will disappear. Unfortunately, most "good" trucks have #2 holes, and most "toy" trucks have press-in fittings, which are much larger holes like #4 or #6, and hence the screws won't go thru the good truck's mounting hole, as it's too small. All kinds of headaches dealing with upgrading toy quality cars! Another reason I like the wavy spring washer solution, it stabilizes the toy truck, doesnt' cost much ( I got mine free from work, LOL , I work in an Electronics environment ), and you can keep the car vintage and original as possible, while still upgrading it to perform better.
Sounds like you're making progress, though, so keep at it. Nothing more satisfying than showing the "experts" that they're wrong. 
Jerry in Virginia
" When life throws you bananas...it's easy to slip up"
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Posted - June 29 2010 : 10:50:54 AM
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one thing i noticed was after i put the o rings on the chatt. was if your not pulling cars it will try & pop a wheely & derail the tender. it would do this using a tyco pack because it comes on to hard, but using a mrc it wouldn't. i use the #47 on all my tyco's. they are a little taller than the factory traction tire, but they work great for me.
personally i think the tender drive was the worst thing tyco ever did. i was 6-7 when i got my first one, can you imagine the trouble it gave me then?
jerry
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Posted - June 29 2010 : 12:48:14 PM
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thanks know exactly what a "wavy washer" is. They have various waves per washer depending on how much spring you want. will give it a try. Removing the pressed in truck not easy as they are peened over with heat
the "choo choo" sound is made by a drum full of sand or shot that contacts the track. The faster it rotates the faster the choo choo. The weight of the shot moving in the drum doesn't help for stability.
Have had lots if experience with early Lionel before there were electronics. the cattle car required the cattle to move around a vibrating cattle pen and into the car. Much of the Lionel depended on vibrating platforms which were not dependable
I'll eventually win, they're only inanimate objects
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Posted - June 29 2010 : 7:17:53 PM
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quote:| know exactly what a "wavy washer" is. will give it a try. Removing the pressed in truck not easy as they are peened over with heat |
If you pull real hard and twist, they will come out. Wonder if there is a tool to do the job better? I haven't found one yet. - Jerry -
quote:
I'll eventually win, they're only inanimate objects
Originally posted by derfberger - June 29 2010 : 12:48:14 PM
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HA! HA! Yeah, but inanimates have no feelings, nor get impatient, so they can outlast the normal human usually, if one takes too long. Hold on to your patience! LOL - Jerry -
" When life throws you bananas...it's easy to slip up"
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Posted - July 02 2010 : 10:03:13 PM
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removed the #5 rings which are 1/4 I D and put on # 47 8/32 I d.
What a struggle. Both are 1/16th thick The 1/32 less I D results in a real stretch and there fore reduces the thickness just enough to expose max flange.
Tried with just two rings and two bare wheels thinking more exposed flange less derail. Not enough traction
So far so good. Only problem now is an occasional derail when it hits the plastic crossing/ electric connection. I keep cutting away suspect areas with the Dremmel.
next major step is to take the wobble out of the trucks on most of the cars.
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Posted - July 02 2010 : 10:34:03 PM
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quote:
next major step is to take the wobble out of the trucks on most of the cars.
Originally posted by derfberger - July 02 2010 : 10:03:13 PM
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See my post and pictures called Stabilizing Tyco trucks, Derf.
Jerry
" When life throws you bananas...it's easy to slip up"
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Posted - July 04 2010 : 8:53:56 PM
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did a search and found the pics.
Simple solution which i will use. If more than one is needed might use flat plus wavy as whether the "waves" line up or oppose will make a difference in the spacing
You mention weights.
What do u use?
I'm thinking of going to the stained glass store and getting a piece of lead came ( used to do stained glass as a hobby)
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Posted - July 05 2010 : 08:04:10 AM
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| Adding weight to Tyco or other cars - use 1/4 wheel weights which are usually 1/2 oz in weight - Remember - when working with lead - wear gloves or wash hands right after handling
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Posted - July 07 2010 : 7:19:11 PM
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please elaborate, what are wheel weight and where can i buy.
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Posted - July 07 2010 : 9:23:16 PM
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quote: please elaborate, what are wheel weight and where can i buy.
Originally posted by derfberger - July 07 2010 : 7:19:11 PM
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Automobile tire weights is what he referred to. If you're lucky, you can get them FREE around tire places (used). LOL. However, there IS a cheaper method...about 14 cents per car (literally). I went thru the lead thing awhile back, and guess what? The base metal prices are up, so you buy a 2 oz of strip lead with glue tape for a scale soap box car for almost $4 now! Yikes! So buying new is out. Fishing weights, same thing, very few flat ones, and they're more expensive now. So what to use? PENNIES! Most HO rail cars need about 2 ounces of weight, and 14 pennies is about the right number. Doesn't have to be exact, it's just a "recommendation" based on experience. So if you can fit pennies into the cars, and glue them inside on the ends for boxcars, inside tankers, and gondola's, well, they're tough no matter what. But pennies are cheap, you can find them in parking lots everywhere, and they'll glue in, and if you need some Coinstar cash, just empty your HO cars out again...LOL. Seriously, many guys in my train club use pennies, lead has gotten so expensive lately, it's just not worth using it now, unless you like spending money. I cut up aluminum strips for some Athearn Helium cars, but you have to use so much because of the lightness that it wouldn't work as well in other cars. Did well enough for these.
Jerry
" When life throws you bananas...it's easy to slip up"
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