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 Posted - May 17 2010 : 11:50:23 PM
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I started collecting these recently and I was wondering which one is the hardest to find, I have been going around train shows lately, buying the junkers for $2-$5 and complete nice engines for $5-$10. I saw Tony Cook's website on these, but I have a couple of variations I have found that are not listed. There are a couple of variations within the road names not listed.
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Posted - May 18 2010 : 08:11:35 AM
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Hi Pete ; With the C-Liners, I guess the hardest to get will be the ones made for Lionel in 1957. In lionel lists they are just called FM locos.
0502 Wabash # 60, A unit, pwr, lighted.
0522 Wabash # 50, B unit, dummy.
0512 Wabash ,A , dummy.
0503 Western Pacific A , pwr, lighted.
0523 " " B , dummy
0513 " " A , dummy
0504 Southern Pacific A , pwr, lighted.
0524 " " B , dummy.
0514 " " A , dummy.
0505 Illinois Central A , pwr, lighted.
0525 " " B , dummy.
0515 " " A , dummy.
frank
Maybe I'll see you at some train shows.
toptrain
" It's a Heck of a Day " !!!
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Posted - May 18 2010 : 09:17:25 AM
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I own a cuople of those my self. Not bad little runners and pull decent enough. Its everytime I buy one, the horn is broke off! My c-liners are Conrail and ATSF.
" Heck with counting 'em rivets, TRAINS ARE FOR FUN! Not called the Mad Scientist for nothing either!"
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Posted - May 18 2010 : 3:35:32 PM
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Toptrain- I have a SP, Yellow/Brown- IC, Otange/Brown- IC. I didn't know about the Western Pacific though.- Thanks!
Here are the ones I came up with:
Rio Grande
New York Central
New York Central wirh stripes
Illinois Central- Orange- Late Version
Illinois Central- Yellow- Early Verson
Pennsy- Freight Green
Pennsy- Passenger- Brown- Replace
Penn Central
Conrail
NH
L&N
Santa Fe- Late version
Santa Fe- Mid Version
Santa Fe- Early Version
BN
NP
B&O
SOO
Bi-Centennial
Southern Pacific
Union Paicific
Reading
GN
Lackawanna
CN
CN
S-C-L
Atlanta & East Carolina
C&O
MKT
Milwaukee Road
Southern
Southern
Wabash
Corkey's Carnival Caravan- Made by IHC I think
What is interesting is that there are several variations within each road name. Mainly dealing with the fans/vents on the top.
Edited by - AF Kid on May 18 2010 3:36:33 PM
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Posted - May 18 2010 : 4:33:42 PM
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The only one I have...
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Posted - May 19 2010 : 12:55:29 PM
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I've built up a small collection of these in eastern roads (PRR, NH, NYC, PC, Reading, B&O, etc.), but I look for the Mehano mid-to late 60's version, which had a 5 pole motor and brass axles. The holy grail, as Frank mentioned, are the early Rivarossi units, especially in kit form, or those marketed by Lionel.
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Posted - May 19 2010 : 1:25:46 PM
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I've got two. One is an L&N that's in nice shape that I got for $5. I also have a Santa Fe that's got no horns and a small X carved in the top for some reason.
This reminds me of something I was going to ask. My L&N has grab irons on the front. I thought they were added, but then I saw others that made me think some of them came with them already installed. Anybody know?
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Posted - May 19 2010 : 2:24:50 PM
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The nose grab irons were a feature on the C-Liners from the beginning, but became molded on in later versions, I think under IHC.
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Posted - May 19 2010 : 3:01:31 PM
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 that loco? Need to find a few  & what real railroad actually used these?  As I'm sure some of the ones listed are fantasy
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Posted - May 19 2010 : 4:28:53 PM
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quote:...As I'm sure some of the ones listed are fantasy
Originally posted by microbusss - May 19 2010 : 3:01:31 PM
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Surely you jest?! Corkey's Carnival Caravan...fantasy? Perish the thought...
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Posted - May 19 2010 : 7:38:20 PM
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quote:The nose grab irons were a feature on the C-Liners from the beginning, but became molded on in later versions, I think under IHC.
Originally posted by NickelPlate759Â -Â May 19 2010Â :Â 2:24:50 PM
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Most of the AHM FM's have the front nose grab handles with the exception of the Santa Fe engine. They were left off because of the SF decal.
The L&N did have the front nose grab handles.
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Posted - May 19 2010 : 9:20:32 PM
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| Thanks. Now I'll know what to look for.
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Posted - May 19 2010 : 9:22:28 PM
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The shells were re-tooled a few times in the 70's, going from the original pimple roof fans to screens, dual round exhaust to a single oval stack, and separate headlight & numberboard lenses to a single lightbar casting. I guess they always left the grab irons off due to the SF nose decal, but the final modification was IHC's change to molded grabs in the 90's, I believe. I think Shaygetz's unit, which was the final all-wheel drive version, has them molded on.
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Posted - May 20 2010 : 01:16:48 AM
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The Corkey's model has them molded on but they are not very prominent and are hidden by a nose decal. Also the Conrail FM has handrails that are molded into the front nose.
Real FM's were used by the Pensylvania, NY & NH and Long Island RR's NY that I know of.
The bottom pic is one of the 3 different shell variations.
Edited by - AF Kid on May 20 2010 12:03:24 PM
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Posted - May 20 2010 : 12:26:00 PM
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The following roads had some version of the C-Liner:
Pennsylvania with 24
New York Central with 35
New Haven with 10
Milwaukee Road with 18
Long Island with 12
Canadian Pacific with 28
Canadian National with 38
I can not find any mention of secondary owners. Seems all the C-Liners were traded-in on new power and scrapped, or simply sold for scrap by the roads.
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Posted - September 12 2010 : 1:25:02 PM
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2 ahm 76s ken
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Posted - September 12 2010 : 5:09:07 PM
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well the only FM I has is with a Atlas N scale set & its a PRR loco As seen in this pic
Traded to imatt Except box
Edited by - microbusss on January 28 2011 2:41:30 PM
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Posted - September 14 2010 : 5:37:21 PM
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mico,
What do you want for it?
Cheers, Ian
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Posted - September 14 2010 : 11:22:25 PM
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These AHM C-Liners seem to run nicely. I have an intact B&O (version 1) that runs like a top, and a D&RGW (version 3) that is missing the Rivarossi brush pin hold-fast, but still runs fitfully. (I found this out when I applied power to my RIP track to move a Tyco GP20 converted from PT to CD tray motor, and the D&RGW C-liner at the back of the track jumped forward!)
FYI, if you believe Wikipedia, CP has the only remaining C-16-44 in storage. I have stripped the D&RGW to re-spray it in CP colours.
Cheers,
Lee
"It is better to have loafed and lost, than never to have loafed at all." James Thurber
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Posted - January 28 2011 : 12:11:34 PM
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Hi, new to the forum- Help--does anyone know how to get these AHM FM C liners to run well??? I have a couple of them in NH livery (370) and they spark, sputter and do not run smooth at all. These are the AHM TEMPO YUGO versions with the vertical shaft motor and what look like metal brushes that spark like an arc welder. Can anybody recommend any simple/inexpensive tweaks to get them to run smoother? Any advice would be greatly appreciated, 
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Posted - January 28 2011 : 1:10:57 PM
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quote:Hi, new to the forum- Help--does anyone know how to get these AHM FM C liners to run well??? I have a couple ...and they spark, sputter and do not run smooth at all. These are the AHM.... vertical shaft motor Any advice would be greatly appreciated,
Originally posted by bellagunga - January 28 2011 : 12:11:34 PM
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Bella, are these 3-pole or 5-pole motors? You should be able to spin them manually and tell visually that there's only 3 arms with windings, or 5. If 3, then you need to find some older AHM motors with the 5-pole vertical motors ( some early AHM BL-2 engines had them , and you can find BL-2's on Ebay for $10-15), and they should swap ok. The 5-pole motors are much smoother and run nicer than the later and cheaper-made 3-pole motors. Although the 3-pole motor housings often have metal bushings, and the early 5-pole motors don't
Another thing I've found is that the tension spring arms on the AHM motor brushes can be TOO tense, I have hooked up jumper wires directly to the contacts there,and then slowly squeezed the brush arms outwards, and the motors will start running REAL smooth and easy, and also faster. I fixed one by putting a tiny miniature tie-wrap between the two brush arms BEHIND the fulcrum, and as the tension on the armature eased up, the motor ran really well. (you can't use wire here, because that would short the motor out, has to be non-conductive ) I just left the tie-wrap on at that point. Less pressure on the brushes,and less friction for the motor to overcome. Might want to try that, as the 3-pole motors need ALL the help they can get! 
AS far as the sparking and arcing is concerned, all motors do that. Unless the sparks are coming out each side in long streamers , I wouldn't consider that a problem. If you get metal bits inside, where the magnets will hold them, there might be a problem. But these motors will often spark quite a bit, I don't see anything unusual about that , as a new brush is flat-sided, and the armature is curved, there's less contact, so more sparking, unless there's too much oil or grease inside on the armature pads that might be adding fuel to the sparks. Might want to clean it with alcohol and a fine brush, to see if there's oil impregnated on the copper contact pads. Alcohol won't hurt the metal or windings, and should clean off any excess oil that may be on the brushs and contact areas.
But the best overall solution would be to find older motors with 5 pole armatures, and swap them out. I've reused the 3-pole housing, and installed the 5-pole armature in them, because the newer housings have metal bushings, the older ones didn't sometimes. So I got the best of both worlds, a better housing and a more reliable armature/motor assembly.
SOme people have warned about the magnets losing their power when disassembled, so I would NOT leave them apart if you perform a swap, just clean them up, swap the armature parts quickly. I didn't have any performance reduction after I did mine, but results may vary. Just as a precaution, do NOT leave them apart for very long.
Jerry
Been there, done that, enjoyed the results
" When life throws you bananas...it's easy to slip up"
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