|
|
 Posted - January 17 2010 : 3:07:37 PM
|
This is an Athearn car I picked up at a train show. I like it because the company I work for bought the Ciba Araldite epoxy business.
Tom
Edited by - eaglerock109 on January 17 2010 10:48:21 PM
|
Country:  USA ~
Posts: 635 ~
Member Since: February 03 2008 ~
Last Visit: December 09 2025
|
Alert Moderator
|
|
|
|
Posted - January 17 2010 : 10:46:00 PM
|
North Carolina boxcar - Tyco # 363C - mint out of box. My home state also.
|
|
Country: USA ~
Posts: 2507 ~
Member Since: January 31 2006 ~
Last Visit: October 21 2017
|
Alert Moderator
|
|
|
|
Posted - January 18 2010 : 10:15:41 PM
|
Mantua classics stock car from the "classic six" set:
|
|
Country: USA ~
Posts: 1166 ~
Member Since: October 18 2009 ~
Last Visit: December 23 2018
|
Alert Moderator
|
|
|
|
Posted - January 22 2010 : 09:28:44 AM
|
picked up in job lot,not one piece of plastic in them all tinplate and wood,according to hoseekers site the models should be in the earlier crane box,the boxes shown are dated 57 onwards,so these must be the last run before the plastic bodied versions replaced them,ken
Edited by - catfordken on January 22 2010 10:10:13 AM
|
Country:  United Kingdom ~
Posts: 8294 ~
Member Since: September 28 2006 ~
Last Visit: October 20 2021
|
Alert Moderator
|
|
|
|
Posted - January 25 2010 : 3:18:38 PM
|
Originally posted by catfordken-January 22 2010: 09:28:44 AM
[/quote]
Very nice Ken , do you build them? - Erich
|
Country:  Austria ~
Posts: 1046 ~
Member Since: December 03 2008 ~
Last Visit: February 14 2025
|
Alert Moderator
|
|
|
|
Posted - January 25 2010 : 3:33:30 PM
|
| hi erich yes,part of the fun,dont like looking at boxes,but will keep them,so i can keep track of what i have ken
|
|
Country: United Kingdom ~
Posts: 8294 ~
Member Since: September 28 2006 ~
Last Visit: October 20 2021
|
Alert Moderator
|
|
|
|
Posted - January 25 2010 : 3:38:21 PM
|
Won this, needs a litle TLC - Erich
|
|
Country: Austria ~
Posts: 1046 ~
Member Since: December 03 2008 ~
Last Visit: February 14 2025
|
Alert Moderator
|
|
|
|
Posted - January 25 2010 : 3:50:11 PM
|
i was gonna go for that,came off yesterday i think,ken
at first i thought it was this one
http://www.hoseeker.org/silverstreakinformation/silverstreakcupolacabooseinstr.jpg
Edited by - catfordken on January 25 2010 3:56:17 PM
|
|
Country: United Kingdom ~
Posts: 8294 ~
Member Since: September 28 2006 ~
Last Visit: October 20 2021
|
Alert Moderator
|
|
|
|
Posted - January 26 2010 : 03:04:22 AM
|
quote:
Its this:http://www.hoseeker.org/varneyinstructionscar/varneyembossedcaboosepg1.jpg
- Erich
|
|
Country: Austria ~
Posts: 1046 ~
Member Since: December 03 2008 ~
Last Visit: February 14 2025
|
Alert Moderator
|
|
|
farace
Switcher
Status:
offline
| |
Posted - January 27 2010 : 12:43:57 AM
|
This Funaro & Camerlengo kit has been giving me agita all week.
Sorry for the glare, I had to gloss-coat it to apply the decals (which I just finished) and I haven't dulled it back yet, and it's really not as red as it looks here. And I thought this decal set stuff is supposed to dissolve the backing? The decal edges are very clear to see (though not in the photo).
So besides the truly reprehensibly crappy instructions F&C included in the kit, what's bothering me is that the wheels at the brake end of the car are fouling against the little bellcrank thingy at the bottom of the rod; it can't make it around an 18" curve without hitting. Looking more at it, I got to wondering if the wheels are set too far out. I drilled the mounting holes right where they said, right where the centerlines of the center beam and cross beams cross. The edge of the wheels reach right to the edge of the car body, maybe even a skosh (technical unit of measure) further. I don't have another 36' boxcar, but all the wheel sets on everything else I have are set in a bit from the edge. I hate to think this thing is destined to sit on a shelf or on a siding and not be part of a train. Any thoughts?
--Bob
|
|
Country: USA ~
Posts: 70 ~
Member Since: January 20 2010 ~
Last Visit: March 06 2011
|
Alert Moderator
|
|
|
farace
Switcher
Status:
offline
| |
Posted - January 27 2010 : 08:32:46 AM
|
Well, to answer my own question, I found original NYNH&H RR blueprints, and it seems that F&C made the body four or five millimeters too short. The truck bolsters are the correct distance apart, but the body itself should be ending about another two millimeters further from each bolster. So my choice is whether to leave things as they are and not be able to run the car, or move each mounting point a couple of millimeters inward and have the distance between bolsters be out of scale. The second choice seems to make the most sense, so I guess I'll be plugging the holes I drilled and drilling and tapping new ones. Argggh.
--Bob
|
|
Country: USA ~
Posts: 70 ~
Member Since: January 20 2010 ~
Last Visit: March 06 2011
|
Alert Moderator
|
|
|
farace
Switcher
Status:
offline
| |
Posted - January 31 2010 : 10:16:00 PM
|
There, that's a little better. My first try at weathering, too.
--Bob
|
|
Country: USA ~
Posts: 70 ~
Member Since: January 20 2010 ~
Last Visit: March 06 2011
|
Alert Moderator
|
|
|
|
Posted - January 31 2010 : 10:39:36 PM
|
Thats Nice Work!
-Gaeth
"A is A"
-Aristotle
Law of Identification
|
Country:  Canada ~
Posts: 4200 ~
Member Since: January 08 2006 ~
Last Visit: November 09 2021
|
Alert Moderator
|
|
|
|
Posted - February 08 2010 : 12:34:22 PM
|
Dear Farace,
Another solution to your clearance problem on your NYNH&H boxcar may be to substitute the standard size wheels for wheels of a smaller diameter. If you are using 33 scale inch diameter wheels try downsizing to 30 inch or 28 inch scale wheels. I know Kadee makes 28 inch diameter wheel sets for modern day flatcars, in the Walthers catalog the are listed with part number 380-524. NorthWest Short Line produces 30" wheels (Walthers part number 53-71164) and 28" wheels (53-71154). This would be a much easier way to solve your clearance problem than tearing apart the underframe of your finished car to reposition your bolsters. I hope this helps!
Srenchin
Proudly keeping Tyco Pluggers out of landfills since 2016
|
|
Country: USA ~
Posts: 821 ~
Member Since: December 26 2009 ~
Last Visit: November 14 2025
|
Alert Moderator
|
|
|
|
Posted - February 08 2010 : 12:48:16 PM
|
Dear Farace,
One other little detail tip I also would recommend, (especially if you decide to change your wheel sets), is to paint the outside face of each wheel black to simulate the leakage of oil from the journal bearings. This is a cool weathering tip that I apply to all my cars that have simulated Journal Bearings to make the wheels stand out, the effect is even better if you then apply a little gray powdered chalk to the wheels to simulate dust sticking to the crusty oil. You can see this technique used on my PFE reefer car that I posted on "My First Car of The Week". I hope this helps!!
Srenchin
Proudly keeping Tyco Pluggers out of landfills since 2016
|
|
Country: USA ~
Posts: 821 ~
Member Since: December 26 2009 ~
Last Visit: November 14 2025
|
Alert Moderator
|
|
Home
Forums
Events Calendar
Forum Admins & Mods
Register
