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 Freight Unloading Depot electrical problem
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Author Previous Topic: need help on gears Topic Next Topic: Reviving a 1987 Tyco Chattanooga train  

Srenchin
Big Boy


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 Posted - January 04 2010 :  10:40:49 PM Link directly to this topic  Show Profile  Add Srenchin to Buddylist
Hello all,

I am attempting to get a number 931 Freight Unloading Depot back into operating condition but again I have run into a snag...

According to the instructions this accessory is supposed to be powered by the fixed voltage AC terminals on my transformer. However when I hook up the mechanism as instructed and press the button I get no action what so ever.

After poking around inside the building I have determined that:

1.) The motor works fine with DC power. I hard wired the motor directly to the DC terminals on my transformer to make sure the motor was not fried. I discovered that not only does the motor work fine on DC power but I was also able to fine tune the performance (speed) of the tractor by using the same variable voltage terminals that are used to power locomotives.

2.) The problem part is a small black electronic component that looks like a small clothes button. This button is suspended underneath the building held in place by its two leads, one lead is soldered directly to the motor and the other is soldered to one of the wires leading to the control button and transformer.

3.) What does this "black button" do anyway, I suspect that it is a bridge rectifier but I could be wrong. If this "black button" is a bridge rectifier converting AC current to DC current, could I simply replace this component with something from Radio Shack?

4.) Why should I power this accessory with AC current when I could simply use a spare transformer to provide variable DC power to this mechanism with the added bonus of being able to adjust the operating speed of the tractor?

Any ideas, opinions, or suggestions are welcome....

Thanks

Scott




Proudly keeping Tyco Pluggers out of landfills since 2016
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Ray Marinaccio
Big Boy


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 Posted - January 04 2010 :  11:45:12 PM Link directly to this reply  Show Profile  Add Ray Marinaccio to Buddylist
I would run it on the variable DC.
It is possible that the "black button" I nothing more than a single diode. That would block half the AC signal to the motor and pass a DC voltage of half the AC voltage.
9V DC from 18V AC

Ray
 Country: USA  ~  Posts: 1285  ~  Member Since: December 14 2005  ~  Last Visit: May 16 2019 Alert Moderator  Go To Top Of Page

shaygetz
Big Boy


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 Posted - January 05 2010 :  12:14:49 AM Link directly to this reply  Show Profile  Add shaygetz to Buddylist
I'm with Ray...sounds like a happy boo boo to me, especially with the variable control.
 Posts: 2465  ~  Member Since: April 15 2007  ~  Last Visit: December 01 2023 Alert Moderator  Go To Top Of Page

Srenchin
Big Boy


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 Posted - January 05 2010 :  2:19:46 PM Link directly to this reply  Show Profile  Add Srenchin to Buddylist
Ok,

I think I will just remove the "black button" component and hard wire variable DC directly to the motor. Do you think it would be a good idea to remove the two resistors that are also wired to the motor?

Scott

Proudly keeping Tyco Pluggers out of landfills since 2016
 Country: USA  ~  Posts: 820  ~  Member Since: December 26 2009  ~  Last Visit: February 25 2025 Alert Moderator  Go To Top Of Page

shaygetz
Big Boy


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 Posted - January 05 2010 :  6:09:58 PM Link directly to this reply  Show Profile  Add shaygetz to Buddylist
I don't see a reason to, it helps with the voltage control.
 Posts: 2465  ~  Member Since: April 15 2007  ~  Last Visit: December 01 2023 Alert Moderator  Go To Top Of Page
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