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 Posted - December 05 2009 : 11:12:33 PM
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I'm having trouble figuring out the difference between handrail stanchion part numbers from athearn, or at least the differences between them. I'm wanting the newer style that's easier to put on & clamp down on the handrails. I've got several of the older one's that aren't folded or rolled, but their a PITA.
a 10424 is a short, but are they the later style with the end already rolled, or are they the older one's that are a pain in the butt to get folded over on the rails? i've seen the same 10424 part number with an a, b, & c behind it. what are the differences?
what is the differences between the 10425 & the 10426 stanchions? their both long.
jerry
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Posted - December 05 2009 : 11:28:25 PM
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I believe the 10425 are medium length for the EMD models and the 10426 are the longest for the Trainmaster.
I have no idea what the a, b, & c behind the number is about.
Ray
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Posted - December 06 2009 : 11:18:02 PM
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| If you are buying newer stock, then the 10424s, 10425s, and 10426s all come pre-rolled/bent. All you need to do is slide them onto the rail and then press them into the holes along the walkways. It don't get much easier. You can the use acc or solder to fix the railing to the stantion.
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Posted - December 07 2009 : 11:57:02 AM
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i'm going to ask a stupid question. what is acc?
jerry
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Posted - December 07 2009 : 12:49:33 PM
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| ACC used to be the abreviation for Super Glue. Sorry, that abreviation isn't used much these days. By the way, NOT a stupid question!
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Posted - December 07 2009 : 12:56:22 PM
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that's what i thought it was, but wanted to make sure.
how do you solder the stanchions on the railings without melting the plastic body?
jerry
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Posted - December 07 2009 : 1:03:42 PM
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Very Fast!!! 
Actually it isn't hard. I place a couple small metal aligator clips on the stantion between the plastic and the soldered joint. The clips act as heat sinks.
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