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 Posted - May 10 2009 : 9:36:32 PM
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My next project to tackle will be installing power wires from the transformer around the layout to the track. I a looking for a way to easily attach the wires to the track. I think soldering would be easiest, but I am not an expert at soldering, and my last attempt I ended up melting 3 sleepers. Any tips or other ideas would be appreciated. Thanks!
-Jacob
Quote: "I didn't fail, I just found 1200 materials that won't work"
-Thomas Edison
Edited by - Dorptrains on May 10 2009 9:36:49 PM
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 Posted - May 10 2009 : 9:43:04 PM
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| Jacob, it's been a long time for me since I handled any track, but don't they have the "terminal" track pieces that have the two attachments made on, to easily accept the wires?
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Posted - May 10 2009 : 9:47:48 PM
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I'm having the same problem. You are correct walt, there are terminal pieces, but they can look pretty ugly and unrealistic if you are going for more detailed layout.
I've tried soldering wires on as well, maybe I'm just not very good at it... 
    
- Matt -
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Posted - May 10 2009 : 10:11:33 PM
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Atlas used to (and maybe still does) sell sets of Terminal Joiners: rail joiners with lead wires pre-soldered on. Kinda pricey for what they are, technically (3 bucks for about .08 worth of parts) but easy to use.
I soldered my track feeds. Does take a little practice but it's not hard once you get the hang of it. Nestle your feed wire in the outer crook of the rail. Make sure your iron is hot, then touch it to the joint as you apply solder. The hardest part is not having 3 hands.
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Posted - May 10 2009 : 11:24:30 PM
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I soldered the track feed wire to the bottom of the rail joiner, then attached them to the rails. Drilled holes in the track bed where the wire went through.
Mike
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Posted - May 11 2009 : 12:50:34 PM
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Correct me if I'm wrong guys, but you must use STEEL track to be able to use solder on the?
If anyone is trying to solder the brass track, the solder won't stick to it.
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Posted - May 11 2009 : 1:22:09 PM
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| i will stand corrected but if you can solder a brass model locomotive why not brass track
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Posted - May 11 2009 : 1:33:16 PM
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True enough... most brass models are soldered. I have worked on and repaired a couple. The old days of brass kits (Mantua/Tyco's earliest included) required good soldering skills. That being said, these days brass models are usually assembled using resistance soldering, which is an entirely different method requiring expensive, specialized equipment.
I think the trick with brass is amount of heat transfer and the type of solder used. I haven't researched this in depth because I've yet to have the need.
You can solder nickel-silver rail - I did this on the STC. Steel of course should work too. My well-stated hatred of brass track means I haven't and won't get experience trying that though.
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Posted - May 11 2009 : 3:26:04 PM
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Thanks for the help- I think I will try Mike's method. If that doesn't work out, I'll buy the Atlas rail joiners. I have one terminal track, and like MM 1498 said it doesn't look very realistic. I am planning to put a road over the one I have. It would be a hassle to install a bunch of terminal pieces wherever I want the wires, because there are a lot of places to put them. I think putting a lot of wires will help the electrical flow.
-Jacob
Quote: "I didn't fail, I just found 1200 materials that won't work"
-Thomas Edison
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B 67
Switcher
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Posted - May 12 2009 : 11:17:47 AM
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quote:Correct me if I'm wrong guys, but you must use STEEL track to be able to use solder on the?
If anyone is trying to solder the brass track, the solder won't stick to it.
Originally posted by walt-May 11 2009: 12:50:34 PM
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I'd have said brass was easier to solder than steel, but the important bit really is that whatever you solder MUST be clean. I'd go so far as saying not to use either steel or brass rail unless you must. Nickel-silver is far better than either for reliable running and less cleaning (I rarely ever clean my track). But I recognise that this is a Tyco forum and therefore many of you will have plenty of brass and / or steel rails. 
One other (important) point. Solder is not glue. You don't use it to "stick" things together. The material you are joining should be hot and clean enough to melt the solder itself. Slopping melted solder from the iron to your not quite hot enough rail or wire or whatever is generally going to result in a failed joint.
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Posted - May 12 2009 : 4:27:43 PM
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Thanks for the tip B 67- I think that will really help me. I always thought solder was "metal glue." Hopefully I will get better results this time than the last time I tried.
-Jacob
Quote: "I didn't fail, I just found 1200 materials that won't work"
-Thomas Edison
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Posted - May 14 2009 : 12:01:05 AM
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Melting the ties... not really a great loss or embarrassing result...
You said that your layout is high in detail...
1. Surround the melted ties with ballast after you flatten the luster of "said" melted ties.
2. Brass, steel, or nickle rail can and will conduct power to metal wheels better if/when putting a light film of petroleum jelly ( i.e. Vaseline ) on the rails... the results is consistent electrical conductivity... and Yes, the track and wheels do get black.
3. Rail metal... buy "G" gauge rail and you will find that 90% of the available rail is solid brass.
4. Lionel train sets didn't have brass track.
5a. Another property of brass is it's ability to absorb petroleum based oils.
5b. Absorbs petro-based oil because brass is considered a "soft" metal.
6. The electric 5-pole motor in your locomotive is brass.
7. Motor crank bearings in automobiles are brass... they are also soaked in oil before being assembled.
8. Railroad crews also dealt with brass-friction wheel/axle bearings. "Hot-boxes" were created when there was not enough oil/grease in such bearing boxes.
9. And, I never saw or heard about steel tax... Grandpa griped about "Brass Tax!!!"
"Brass... it's what's for dinner..."
Sorry, just felt like sayin' that.
John/Zebrails
I don't have a one track mind. It depends on the turn-out.
"I love your catenary!"
Is that a power-trip or just another pick-up line?
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Posted - May 14 2009 : 08:18:01 AM
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Thanks for the tips.
-Jacob
Quote: "I didn't fail, I just found 1200 materials that won't work"
-Thomas Edison
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Posted - October 30 2009 : 06:58:58 AM
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| When soldering - make sure solder has Rosin Core in it. Radio Shack sells a great solder in a plastic tube # 64-017 E. It is .32 diameter and this is what i use to re solder wires on my old Tyco's and other loco's.
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Posted - October 30 2009 : 8:46:08 PM
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quote:When soldering - make sure solder has Rosin Core in it. Radio Shack sells a great solder in a plastic tube # 64-017 E. It is .32 diameter and this is what i use to re solder wires on my old Tyco's and other loco's.
Originally posted by Brianstyco-October 30 2009: 06:58:58 AM
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Yes I used to use solder without rosin, and well, it didn't really work.
After buying stuff with the rosin core soldering has become an easy and common task.
- Matt -
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Posted - November 02 2009 : 5:43:08 PM
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Just found this tip on the 2guyzandsumtrains forum:
quote:Want to solder track joints in a hurry? Get a tin of Kester's Rosin Paste Flux, about $2.00. Apply a small amount to the outside of the joint with a toothpick and touch the iron and the solder to the joint at the same time. An instant "welded" joint results and it does not corrode.
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I already broke down and just bought some of the terminal joiners with the wires soldered on, but I might try this on a few more connections.
-Jacob
Quote: "I didn't fail, I just found 1200 materials that won't work"
-Thomas Edison
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