|
|
 Posted - February 05 2009 : 12:49:30 AM
|
Since the only decent looking model of this engine is the AHM/Rivarossi one from the late 70's, it looks better than any of the brass versions I have seen at least. But they lack in a couple of depts, one is you cant see the headlight, and they have one speed, warp drive mode. I installed the NWSL regear set, it cuts the top speed by 65% over the factory set up. You have to swap out the worm gear and axle gear. I scibed a line in the axle and wheel face to retain the quartering when I reinstalled the drive wheel. I drove the axle from the wheel with a small punch, then did the same with the gear using a pair of plyers behind the brass gear to support it. The axle is shouldered so the gear will only go one way. The driver you remove is the one that picks up the power. The axle is lightly splined to help line up the driver when reinstalling. I drove the new NWSL gear into place using a small socket and my small brass hammer. I then lined up the scribe and did the same with the driver. After checking wheel gauge, I put a drop of ACC to lock the wheel back on the axle and set it aside to dry, the capliary action will draw the glue into the wheel/axle grove and set it tight. I then set up my plyers above the worm gear on the motor, and drove the motor shaft back out of the worm with my small punch and brass hammer. I tapped the new worm gear on the shaft and flush with the end of the motor shaft. It was nice and tight on my motor's shaft so nothing else was done with it. I put a better grain of wheat bulb directly under the headlight and painted the back of the boiler face silver, then removed the headlight lense, painted the whole inside of the head light silver, let it dry then reinstalled the headlight lense, now its much brighter. If your motor makes alot more noise going forward, reverse the two brushes as one is mesh and one is carbon, I did this and mine is much quieter now going forwards. You will find the regear, combined with the 3 pole Rivarossi motor is a nice combination and runs quite well. I also turned down my flanges on the pilot truck and drivers using my dremel and a cut off disc, running the flanges on the side of the disc with the wheels spinning or power to motor to spin the drivers. I put new wheels in the tender trucks. Now it should run good on code 80 or lower track. I did leave the driver flanges a bit deeper than RP25 to help prevent any derailments. Wish someone made a nice casting of his special whistle! Cheers Mike
Still NT's, I have Aspergers.
|
Country:  USA ~
Posts: 308 ~
Member Since: November 17 2008 ~
Last Visit: June 05 2023
|
Alert Moderator
|
|
|
|
Posted - February 05 2009 : 01:13:24 AM
|
Looks great Mike.
I managed to piece one back together (had to rebuild a couple of the broken drivers).
I didn't put the regear kit in but may do that later.
I still need to find a tender truck for it.
Ray
Edited by - Ray Marinaccio on February 05 2009 01:16:08 AM
|
|
Country: USA ~
Posts: 1285 ~
Member Since: December 14 2005 ~
Last Visit: May 16 2019
|
Alert Moderator
|
|
|
|
Posted - February 06 2009 : 09:47:50 AM
|
Good work, Mike. I have the collector's edition with the gray smokebox, but actually prefer the black, as I don't think the real thing ever sported gray paint. I've been considering the regear kit, and will probably do it at some point. Rivarossi steel worms are often a bear to get off the motor, so I generally use an old pair of wire stripping pliers with the motor shaft in the appropriate sized hole in the handle, and prop it in an open vise. I rubberband or cable tie the handles shut to be on the safe side. It usually takes a few sharp raps to loosen them. I've tried the NWSL puller, but it just bends under the pressure.
I pulled the front lamp fixture off the smokebox, reamed it out a bit, and put a GOW bulb up inside it for best illumination.
Rivarossi had kits that included all of the detail parts for these engines, and I'm not sure why. I don't think there were stripped-down versions. I bought one form my IHC friends, and it came in handy because the one I bought turned out to be missing the short air tank under the cab.
The Tyco Depot
|
|
Country: USA ~
Posts: 3927 ~
Member Since: June 20 2007 ~
Last Visit: November 19 2015
|
Alert Moderator
|
|
|
|
Posted - February 09 2009 : 10:25:07 PM
|
I never have seen a strip down verison of this locomotive either. I did basicly the same way to knock the motor shaft out of the worm gear. It does run much better with the new gear ratio. My light bulb that is direclty under the headlight, and with the interior of the lamp housing painted silver to help reflect light, it looks much better now. Mike
Still NT's, I have Aspergers.
|
|
Country: USA ~
Posts: 308 ~
Member Since: November 17 2008 ~
Last Visit: June 05 2023
|
Alert Moderator
|
|
|
|
Posted - March 17 2009 : 9:15:04 PM
|
| the real Casey Jones loco was also a hoodoo (cursed) loco maybe its cursed cause of the numbers? 3+8+2= 13 O.O real cool looking loco too
|
|
Country: USA ~
Posts: 14925 ~
Member Since: February 23 2009 ~
Last Visit: August 27 2025
|
Alert Moderator
|
|
Home
Forums
Events Calendar
Forum Admins & Mods
Register
