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 Posted - May 17 2008 : 6:30:19 PM
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For those of you out there that may be trying to replace a Powertorque with a CD type motor the 2 I've done have failed. The first one was being tested for about 45 minutes continuously today when it just stopped, no smoke, no joke.
I used used motors and that could be part of the problem. The other is the fact that they are low voltage motors and the transformers put out higher voltage than they can normally handle. That's why Ray M. shared his reduction circuit with us in an earlier post. I understood that the MRC transformers took this risk away, but maybe not.
If you are trying this method of getting your Tycos on the rails maybe this will save you some time and effort. It shows potential and the drilled out pinion gears seemed to be solid with the addition of epoxy, in the opening of the gear, when installing them.
I have 2 motors waiting to be installed once I visit Radio Shack and ask for the Tyco Powertorque Replacement Reduction Circuit Kit.[:D]
Alco Fan
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Posted - May 17 2008 : 9:30:42 PM
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I wonder what caused it. If it was over voltage or more load than the motor can handle.
If it was over voltage, the reduction ciruit should take care of it.
If the motors won't handle the load, additional gear reduction may be needed with some motors.
What it may take is to find a specific motor(I am still testing a few)
Will you be able to get the gears off the burnt motors to reuse the gears?
Ray
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Posted - May 17 2008 : 11:09:05 PM
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AF, I'm sure it was the continuous duty at voltages above their rating. I've also noticed Mabuchi can motors - even tried and true models like the FK-130 - get super hot on MRC packs. I have an old Autopulse pack I'll never part with because it's better regulated and doesn't introduce as much ripple and heat up motors like MRC packs do. We had this problem at Northlandz with MRC packs burning up Athearns and other brands.
The only MRC I own is a Tech II. Their better models may not cause this, but I wasn't going to spend the $ to find out.
I'm sure finding a replacement with a higher voltage rating will solve the problem.
The Tyco Depot
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Posted - May 18 2008 : 08:21:01 AM
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Thanks Ray and NP759,
I broke the first gear pulling it off but maybe I was too rough. The second one is still on the shaft.
Alco Fan
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Posted - May 18 2008 : 12:32:16 PM
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quote:Thanks Ray and NP759,
I broke the first gear pulling it off but maybe I was too rough. The second one is still on the shaft.
Originally posted by Alco Fan - May 18 2008 : 08:21:01 AM
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I wonder if heating the gear woll make it come off in one piece.
Is the MRC a pulse width modulated power pack?
Ray
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Posted - May 18 2008 : 5:36:03 PM
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MRC Tech II Loco-Motion 2500 with momentum and brake. I heard they were transitorized at the LHS.
Alco Fan
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Posted - May 18 2008 : 10:32:04 PM
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| You can remove 5 min epoxy with a cheap paint stripper found at hardware stores. It is meant to strip all types of paint off wood, metal and ceramic. It will eat plastic fast though. It does a very good job on epoxy and super glues as well. Or you can buy a small pulley puller from NWSL.
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Posted - May 19 2008 : 12:33:42 AM
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quote:MRC Tech II Loco-Motion 2500 with momentum and brake. I heard they were transitorized at the LHS.
Originally posted by Alco Fan - May 18 2008 : 10:36:03 PM
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Yup, that's the one. I guess they're transistorized, but the circuitry must be minimal. I don't know for certain because of those rotten tamper-proof screws, which is another reason I don't like them [:(!]. All of my locos run much cooler on my Autopulse 2.5.
The Tyco Depot
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Posted - May 20 2008 : 10:11:15 PM
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I think the MRC Tech II Loco Motion 2500 is like one of the transformers that Tyco sold in the '80s. The Tyco Trains Resource says that it is transistorized, if that really makes any difference in this situation.
After talking to a friend he says that you can run lower voltage train motors on the MRC as long as you don't turn it up too high[:(!]. So it doesn't really protect the motor from burning up. Interestingly enough MRC has a transformer that has a yellow label on the boby that shows where to stop the throttle to avoid damage to engines that need less voltage.
Alco Fan
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Posted - May 22 2008 : 12:07:30 PM
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| If memory serves, that label was to limit the voltage to about 9 or 10 volts. That is/was the max for N scale locos at the time. You can use any type/make of pack, but you need to limit the amount of voltage to match the max allowed by the motor. Your 6 volt motor will run fine as long as you only use the lower half of the throttle!
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Posted - May 24 2008 : 04:43:15 AM
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AF, another option is to double-motor the loco, with two of these can motors wired in series. That way the maximum voltage is cut in half, and the two trucks will operate like a differential in a car, equalizing the speed between them. I set my Rivarossi GG1 up this way with two motors in series, and it gets rid of the rocket-sled high speed, plus the motors don't even get warm.
The Tyco Depot
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Posted - June 09 2008 : 11:03:05 AM
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Hi everyone,
I have F-9A set but without power source, its about 30 years old, but it still working... need some polish .
The question is which is the highest voltage supported for this motor?
I assume is also for all the motors of this kind?
Thanks a lot
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