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 Posted - March 30 2008 : 12:35:44 PM
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Hey guys:
Can you Y'all chime in on choosing to use brass or Tyco True Steel sectional track?
Which one wold you choose. I know there are better choices but can you restrict it to these two?
Thanks,
Gareth
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 Posted - March 30 2008 : 6:39:32 PM
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Hey Gareth. I have mostly brass and few pieces of steel track (I don't use either on my layout anymore though). I used brass for about 7 years, and as long as you buy it new, it works great (second-hand brass usually doesn't work well). I'm starting to buy steel track for my turbo train. All the pieces I bought were rusted pieces of crap, but once I cleaned them up the trains ran just as well as on brass.
If I was going to build a layout with them I would use brass, mostly because it doesn't rust. Brass does tarnish, but if you take proper care of it, it will last for a long time.
-cheez
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Posted - March 30 2008 : 7:14:21 PM
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| G--i personally would use tru steel. every Tyco trainset i recieved came with tru steel and i even purchaed tru steel when buying more pieces. Tyco even sold 3 ft sections of tru steel as i remember purchasing it. There was a local drug store (Tyco retailer) that carried Tyco trains-track and kits which is where i purchased mine. The store is still open today-no trains though. I liked the tru steel look and i did get ok performance from it-just a lot cleaning at times. I had the remote control switches also and an 90 crossing
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Posted - March 30 2008 : 11:24:04 PM
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I hate brass track, so I'm hardly unbiased. Too many problems trying to resurrect and reuse brass track that was past its prime. And it doesn't even look remotely real no matter what you do.
Steel track does get dirty quickly, but it cleans effortlessly with a bright boy. Get yourself a track-cleaning car (either chemical or abrasive will do) and you won't have any problems.
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Posted - March 30 2008 : 11:50:37 PM
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I have had a lot of success with nickel-silver track, no tarnishing. Cleanup with Goo-Gone, every so often, works great.
Mike
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Posted - March 31 2008 : 12:24:49 AM
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Hi Mike:
Yes NS is fine if the question was "whats the best sectional?", but I was specifically looking for peoples experience with brass or Tyco TS.
Thanks for the input though.
-Gareth
Edited by - romcat on March 31 2008 12:29:53 AM
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Posted - March 31 2008 : 12:37:43 AM
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| P.S. Here in the South--The humidity in summer eventually took its toll on my tru steel track as it was on a 4x8 sheet in a utility bldg. The humidity can be unbearable at times. Do not know if it is same in Canada. Best for indoor climate control with tru steel.
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Posted - March 31 2008 : 12:54:14 AM
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Hey Brian:
oh yeah. I've seen the humidexin Toronto bump the temp into the mid 40's uh thats Celsius!. Once it even hit 50 something in `96 or 7 if I remember.
-Gareth
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Posted - March 31 2008 : 01:46:13 AM
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I'm not a Tyco Purist (sniff) because I use only Atlas Code 100 nickel-silver track - mainly because my layout also runs newer DC/DCC equipped motive power with a Quantum Engineer Sound Control. Almost all of my Brass Track is beyond it's prime and I only had a few pieces of steel track that came with the operating accessories (which usually came oxidized in the box even when they were new).
I found a new use for my brass track though ... when I model non-powered long-abandoned right of ways it always looks convincing and I don't have to weather it. [}:)]
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Dan
Switcher
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Posted - March 31 2008 : 5:19:25 PM
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I like brass better the steel, that's what my G scale trains use. On Ho I find steel has a lot of "dead spots". To clean brass I use my bench grinder with a buffer wheel, makes the brass look like new and perform like new. (I think shiny brass looks better than shiny steel.)
Early bird gets the worm, but the second mouse gets the cheese!!
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 Posted - April 01 2008 : 02:48:57 AM
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True Steel = magnetic fun!
Tyco track looked very much like Atlas. Most importantly, True-Steel was and still is better than Bachmann track.
Tyco Brass track was better than Bachmann, stronger, too.
The brass track is Tyco, too?
Keep the track and wheels clean. I read that to decrease oxidation on the rails is to keep running trains on them. Shoot a wee bit of electrical compatible oil on the tracks, too. Then, keep an eye on the switch frogs and also on the switch where the two rails, stock and point, seperate as gunk has a tendency to come off there, too.
If you do use alcohol to clean the rails, using a bit of that same kinda oil will also increase electrical contact as well.
Remember to check the wheels of your rolling stock. Clean rails get dirty fast if the wheels are are dirty. It is inescapable unless all is clean. Remember to check where the electrical contact is on the wheels. On the flat/flange of the wheel. OR on the back of the wheel.
So, bottom line, Tyco is good. Tyco brass does have the distinct characteristic of being rusty as is. True-Steel does oxidize quite a bit, too. I agree with the "Brite-Boy" cleaning method.
Now, one item I created myself is this: If I have a steam locomotive that is generally permanently attached to the tender, it is, what, a foot long? Maybe more or less?
Increase electrical/rail conductivity by M.U.'ing two diesels together.
I have done that with at least two pair of Athearn F-7's.
Two chassis' joined as one permanent consist... F-7A & F-7B wired (you know even on a B-unit, there is a 'Front')... Both units pointed front: wire chassis to chassis and motor top to motor top.
Two F-7A's? Back to back: Top of motor wired to chassis of other locomotive and repeated for other locomotive.
Result: Two motors With 16 wheel pick-up!
This can also be done with lessor quality locomotives.
John
I don't have a one track mind. It depends on the turn-out.
"I love your catenary!"
Is that a power-trip or just another pick-up line?
Edited by - zebrails on April 01 2008 02:58:14 AM
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midmo1
Little Six
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Posted - April 01 2008 : 08:17:32 AM
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I pick brass over any other...flex and sectional...mainly because i've found that it gets better traction than any other...yes scale loco wheels DO spin under a load..I clean the UNDERSIDE of the ends of the track with a Dremmel tool so it shines like gold...and use BRAND NEW JOINERS at every joint...clean the tops of the rails, and you should have excellent current to your wheels..make sure the wheels are clean..My first Tyco set came with BRASS track....I have used it mainly ever since...hope that helps
midmo
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