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 Posted - March 22 2008 : 5:31:01 PM
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Hey guys. Now that I've got my mountain finished (well...almost) I'm going to start working on my town. I've already got buildings and people, but I don't know what to do about roads/streets. I was hoping you guys could give me some ideas.
-cheez
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 Posted - March 22 2008 : 10:21:18 PM
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Alas, another one who doesn't read my blog...sigh...[B)] [;)] [:D]
>>> http://misterbobsmodelworksemporium.blogspot.com/2008/03/grade-crossings-and-roads-made-easy.html
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Posted - March 22 2008 : 11:42:03 PM
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COMING SOON-- ROADWAY PKGS FOR SALE. WILL POST ON FORUM. PM ME IF YOU WANT A CUSTOM STREET.
Cheez-- I use styrene sheets painted flat black and the lines are from scale scenics. After the lines are applied--i spray a dull coat to seal the lines even though they are adhesive backed. You can also paint the plastic with auto gray primer for older road look. I use brass stencils to mark RxR crossings. To paint stop marks or crosswalks-i use a Bic white-out roller. See photo below. The van is a G-I-C custom that i purchased from him. I have several that i will be posting later. The road width i use is 3 & 1/8th inches wide. sytrene thickness is 1mm. You can use different thickness on styrene. I took drafting in High School and use my drafting tools - T square(clear drafting type) and board to cut the streets. While you do not have to have drafting experience--it is helpful when making roads. There are many more methods to making roads than i mentioned or covered.
Roadway with custom G-I-C van / Road stripes=Scale Scenics
Bic White Out Roller
Edited by - Brianstyco on November 16 2008 5:31:17 PM
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Roy
Little Six
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Posted - March 23 2008 : 09:36:40 AM
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quote:| ...I use styrene sheets painted flat black and the lines are from scale scenics... Originally posted by Brianstyco
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Those are the most authentic model asphalt streets I've ever seen! [:O]
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Posted - March 23 2008 : 12:09:37 PM
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Thank you Roy. Here is a photo of the Krylon Auto gray primered street with brass stenciled RXR and the BIC white stop mark
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Posted - March 23 2008 : 1:21:05 PM
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quote:Thank you Roy. Here is a photo of the Krylon Auto gray primered street with brass stenciled RXR and the BIC white stop mark
Originally posted by Brianstyco - March 23 2008 : 4:09:37 PM
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I love this place...how many other forums could you go to where someone would go to such care for their roads---right up to a Tyco "Royal Blue"?[:D] [:D] [:D]
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Roy
Little Six
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Posted - March 23 2008 : 2:21:28 PM
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quote:| I love this place...how many other forums could you go to where someone would go to such care for their roads---right up to a Tyco "Royal Blue"?... Originally posted by shaygetz
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A tiny amount of realism on a Tyco layout...could it actually be a good thing???
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Posted - March 23 2008 : 7:26:46 PM
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Hey Shaygetz. I've seen your roads before and they look amazing. The only problem though, is that I don't know where to buy small amounts of shingles, and I don't really feel like going up on the roof with a shovel[:D] I think you told me once that the area you live in gets alot of big storms (hurricanes?) and that its easy to find old shingles that get blown off roofs. Unfortunately, its not like that here.
Brian: Those roads look really good, and fairly easy to make. Where do you get the styrene sheets?
-cheez
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Posted - March 23 2008 : 10:11:42 PM
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| cheez--The sheets are from Plastruct and Evergreen. First Place Hobbies--an online retailer has the best prices as far as i know. That is where these came from. These thin sheets can be cut with scissors also if you have a steady hand and good cutting scissors.
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Posted - March 30 2008 : 11:19:32 PM
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I used the Woodland Scenics "road paving kit", whatever it was called. Basically it's just finely ground hydrocal.
It was actually pretty cool: you lay the road edges with foam tape, then mix the hydrocal, pour it, and "pave it" with a straightedge across the top of the thick foam tape.
The results really do look great; the roads have a realistic texture and are elevated over the shoulder. Plus you can carve, crack, and weather them, and even make potholes and the like.
I used 59-cent craft paints applied with a foam brush to color them; the hydrocal soaks it right up and it looks good. I striped them with paintmarkers drawn along a straightedge.
Eventually I "freehand paved" some side roads. I really enjoyed paving this way.
I also used the same method Brian described for a concrete overpass on the back of the layout, and was pleased with the results.
way back when, on my very first layout, I used black duct tape for the streets... [;)]
Edited by - GoingInCirclez on March 30 2008 11:25:33 PM
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Posted - March 31 2008 : 6:39:02 PM
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Hey Tony. I think I saw those on an woodland scenics video I borrowed from the hobby shop. It looked like a cool idea. How expensive is the foam tape and hydrocal?
The only thing I don't like about buying some of these ready made things and kits is that they are often over-priced and there is usually a messier alternative that turns out just as well.
-cheez
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Posted - March 31 2008 : 8:37:47 PM
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quote:Hey Shaygetz. I've seen your roads before and they look amazing. The only problem though, is that I don't know where to buy small amounts of shingles, and I don't really feel like going up on the roof with a shovel[:D] I think you told me once that the area you live in gets alot of big storms (hurricanes?) and that its easy to find old shingles that get blown off roofs. Unfortunately, its not like that here.
Originally posted by DaCheez - March 24 2008 : 12:26:46 AM
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Yup, I live in hurricane country...not exactly the best hobby shop in the world but it works.[:D]
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Posted - March 31 2008 : 8:55:17 PM
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Eric,
Yep. Overpriced because it's packaged with instructions, but I got a deal on the set and figured I would try it out. But I just told you the secret: Hydrocal, foam tape, and craft paint.
The foam tape might be hard to find. It was like the common double-sided variety, but thinner, and only adhesive on one side. Of course you could use the double-sided kind and not remove the backing. As such, the tape would be the most expensive part.
The "freehand" (no tape edges) ones were my favorite. Just glob the hyrdrocal and pave it even... the edges round off like an asphalt patch. You can trim/ edge as/if necessary. VERY realistic!
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Posted - March 31 2008 : 9:04:14 PM
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| Hydrocol is just a special kind of plaster right? I've seen it at hobby shops. Is there any difference between it and the plaster of paris you can buy for like $3 a box at hardware stores?
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Posted - March 31 2008 : 9:35:41 PM
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If Hydrocal is mixed right, it'll dry hard as rock and the crispness in rock castings is better. It's harder to carve than plaster of Paris and is less susceptible to cracking and breakage.
However, for most people, plaster of Paris is more than adequate. It also takes stains and wash much better than Hydrocal because it's not as dense. It's easier to carve. BUT ... it is easier to damage.
Also - Hydrocal dries fast. So you only mix it small batches at a time.
For what we do ... Hydrocal is a little expensive at $5 a pound versus $5 for an 8 pound bucket of Plaster of Paris.
quote:Hydrocol is just a special kind of plaster right? I've seen it at hobby shops. Is there any difference between it and the plaster of paris you can buy for like $3 a box at hardware stores?
Originally posted by DaCheez - April 01 2008 : 02:04:14 AM
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Posted - April 04 2008 : 10:16:27 AM
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ok..great street... now I have a question about the width that you all use..in scale what width do you use for a two lanes road, a one lane dirt road, also if you are going to parrell park on a two lane what width used..thanks
"Though amid all the smoking horror and diabolism of a sea-fight, SHARKS will be seen longingly gazing up to the ship's decks, like hungry dogs round a table where red meat is being carved, ready to bolt down every killed man that is tossed to them . . ." by Herman Melville
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Posted - April 04 2008 : 5:14:57 PM
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You know, I never actually measured mine, I simply "eyeballed" them for what would look good to fit the available space.
The general rule of thumb is that roads should be as wide as possible. Almost every layout has roads that are way too narrow. And tons of buildings with NO provisions for parking... [:(!] [Oops!]
"As big as possible" is tough on an HO layout though. So what I did was make things "plausible with character". You'll note that my streets are narrow... BUT there is ample room for cars to pass by each other without trading paint, and provisions to "pass with caution if necessary" (look at the bridge).
The main road uphill has narrow shoulders which might not meet actual civil engineering codes but DO serve the purpose to the viewer. The Downtown area looks like something that was built before parking was an issue... so although the the road is narrow it is functional, and the blocked-off one (removed grade crossing) now serves as a parking area.
Here in KY (and small towns everywhere), narrow two-lane roads with no shoulder are quite common so there is precedent as well.
Just make sure your HO people and vehicles have places to go safely, and places to park once thy get there.
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Posted - January 23 2009 : 8:34:39 PM
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Hey everyone. So, I'm still not quite finished my layout, but it's getting there I was just wondering how others here have weathered their roads. I experimented a little on the end of the road yesterday with some black paint smudged with a watery paint brush. I got a dirty looking road...it goes well with the yellow grass next to it, but it's not quite right for the town streets. I want them to be a very light grey with some faint black lines from years of cars passing over. Crayons perhaps?
-cheez
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Posted - January 24 2009 : 9:38:27 PM
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. I want them to be a very light grey with some faint black lines from years of cars passing over. Crayons perhaps?
-cheez
Originally posted by DaCheez-January 23 2009: 8:34:39 PM
[/quote]Eric-try using india ink diluted with rubbing alcohol and wash the roads with that solution until desird effect is achieved
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