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 Posted - May 31 2024 : 4:59:14 PM
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10 years+ designing my layout using Styrofoam and cardboard and still learning. It seemed reasonable to connect a 22" radius curve to a dual-curved switch ( I think it is a TYCO 22"/18" ). MANTUA/TYCO Shark fails to make the short radius turn.
I tried using other brand switches: ROCO and PECO but still no go.
There is another problem free dual-curved switch elsewhere in the layout that had a long straight lead.
With desperation guessing that the long wheel base of the Shark truck was adverse to curve + switch geometry, I tried adding an interceding 2" straight section (hooray for flex track and cardboard facilitating minor adjustments). My Shark now successfully navigates this switch.
Edited by - offtrackthoroughbred on May 31 2024 5:06:26 PM
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Posted - May 31 2024 : 6:39:05 PM
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The old adage is never put a switch under a tunnel and never put a turnout
adjacent to a curve.
That being said, I've tried and failed, and seen others try and fail, to get
decent results with Styrofoam bases. Too much warpage and sensitivity
to ambient temperature.
I can hear the chorus shouting defiantly that Styrofoam is A-OK, but I am
just relating my experience of it. That switch looks a bit cheezy. Maybe
throw it out and try another??
It is so hard to see the micrometer variances on track work, that blows our
Never mind, I see the second half of your post now! Congratulations!
Two inches did the trick!!
train off the rails. There might be some bend or twist not visible to normal
viewing position on that turnout.
Edited by - Chops124 on May 31 2024 6:42:20 PM
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Posted - June 01 2024 : 09:22:24 AM
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Most commercially made switches fall short in the points area. They often use stamped metal points, and leave a blunt end for the wheels to pick. This is a problem I do not have with the handlaid switches I make myzelf, as I make sure the points are sharp enough to cut paper, and I file a recess in the stock rail for the point to nest in.
You can do something similar. First, use a matchstick to block tohe point open and carefully file the blunt end down to a sharper point. You can also CAREFULLY use pliers to put a slight offset in the stock rail just ahead of the point. You don't have to offset by much, just enough to guide the wheels away from the end of the switchpoint.
Lastly, it is vital that you have good solid rail joints coming into the switch. Eliminate any kinks. It wouldn't hurt yo solder the rail joiners to keep everything in alignment.
There is no reason that a properly designed and laid switch should derail on a curve.
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