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 Posted - June 27 2021 : 9:10:19 PM
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Tyco Santa Fe "Warbonnet" ALCO C630, with the Rivarossi-like drive.
 
"Let your light so shine before men, that they may see your good works, and glorify your Father which is in Heaven." - Matthew 5:16
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Posted - June 28 2021 : 7:15:25 PM
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| Very nice, RP. Tell us more! Those things are hard to find, especially in as good a condition as that one looks.
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Posted - June 29 2021 : 07:26:47 AM
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quote:Very nice, RP. Tell us more! Those things are hard to find, especially in as good a condition as that one looks.
Originally posted by Crown Vic-June 28 2021: 7:15:25 PM
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Thanks! Yeah it is in very good shape. I do have a video planned for it, but I have noticed a few issues with the now 2 rare Tyco/Rivarossi C630's in my collection, which may have lead to Tyco ultimately switching to a PowerTorque drive in later C630's:
First, these tend to have issues navigating standard 18'' radius curves, due to the fact that both trucks have gears in the first and third driver wheel, which are powered by what I call "shafts," that don't like curves.
Second, the pop-out coupler boxes have tabs that easily break and then require SuperGlue to be held in place again. Now, Tyco continued to use pop-out/in coupler boxes even on some of their PowerTorque diesels, until eventually the design was improved with the coupler box and bottom truck plate being 1 solid piece of plastic.
"Let your light so shine before men, that they may see your good works, and glorify your Father which is in Heaven." - Matthew 5:16
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Posted - June 29 2021 : 12:43:29 PM
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I am surprised that the shaft issue wasn't identified
prior to going live. One possible fix is to cut about
a centimeter out of the center of the shaft and
splice it with a section of RC fuel tubing. I've done
that on B'mann tender driven Americans and
a LL with bad shafts, and it worked fine.
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Posted - June 29 2021 : 9:50:35 PM
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quote:I am surprised that the shaft issue wasn't identified
prior to going live. One possible fix is to cut about
a centimeter out of the center of the shaft and
splice it with a section of RC fuel tubing. I've done
that on B'mann tender driven Americans and
a LL with bad shafts, and it worked fine.
Originally posted by Chops124-June 29 2021: 12:43:29 PM
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Not entirely sure, but the drive system is a bit strange to begin with, considering it greatly resembles what Rivarossi did, using shafts, etc.
"Let your light so shine before men, that they may see your good works, and glorify your Father which is in Heaven." - Matthew 5:16
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Posted - June 30 2021 : 2:49:37 PM
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| You've tried it in reverse and facing in the opposite direction?
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Posted - June 30 2021 : 9:55:26 PM
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quote:You've tried it in reverse and facing in the opposite direction?
Originally posted by Chops124-June 30 2021: 2:49:37 PM
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Yep.
"Let your light so shine before men, that they may see your good works, and glorify your Father which is in Heaven." - Matthew 5:16
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Posted - July 01 2021 : 5:18:42 PM
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A D&H Shark Nose Diesel.
frank
toptrain
" It's a Heck of a Day " !!!
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Posted - July 01 2021 : 5:48:41 PM
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Here's my Tyco Booster Steam Engine, now with plow!
Aaron Anderson
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Posted - July 02 2021 : 1:37:35 PM
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quote: quote:I am surprised that the shaft issue wasn't identified
prior to going live. One possible fix is to cut about
a centimeter out of the center of the shaft and
splice it with a section of RC fuel tubing. I've done
that on B'mann tender driven Americans and
a LL with bad shafts, and it worked fine.
Originally posted by Chops124-June 29 2021: 12:43:29 PM
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Not entirely sure, but the drive system is a bit strange to begin with, considering it greatly resembles what Rivarossi did, using shafts, etc.
Originally posted by RP model railroads - June 29 2021 : 9:50:35 PM
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It was built for Tyco by Rivarossi, and has a Rivarossi motor.
I would think twice before chopping the drivetrain, as it is a bit of a rare bird and has collector value as-is.
It's very similar to Rivarossi/AHM U25C locos in the drivetrains. The 630 has been "Tyco-ized" with more plastic parts and clips, where the AHM has metal parts and screws. Same set-up though.
Let me know if you ever want to part with it. I have four of these things, all of which I found in far worse shape. As far as that goes, I do have some experience bringing them back to working condition if you ever want to pick my brain for some tips. So far I have not had any issues with them having problems with 18R curves.
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Posted - July 02 2021 : 8:21:43 PM
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| Good info, hope you can cure the beast.
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Posted - July 02 2021 : 9:29:12 PM
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Yeah, I never intended to modify it as I know just how rare it is. I just thought Chops' suggestion was interesting.
Having a drive made by Rivarossi, it runs well, but noisy, but sometimes struggles around standard curves while hauling cars. This might be due to needing new traction tires, which I haven't replaced because I just don't want to tamper with it too much.
And congrats on owning several of these. 
"Let your light so shine before men, that they may see your good works, and glorify your Father which is in Heaven." - Matthew 5:16
Youtube Channel: www.youtube.com/rpmodelrailroads
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Edited by - RP model railroads on July 02 2021 9:29:40 PM
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Posted - July 02 2021 : 9:50:18 PM
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quote:Yeah, I never intended to modify it as I know just how rare it is. I just thought Chops' suggestion was interesting.
Having a drive made by Rivarossi, it runs well, but noisy, but sometimes struggles around standard curves while hauling cars. This might be due to needing new traction tires, which I haven't replaced because I just don't want to tamper with it too much.
And congrats on owning several of these.
Originally posted by RP model railroads - July 02 2021 : 9:29:12 PM
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The wheels turned out to be the weak link on mine. On 3 out of the 4 they were completely trashed. My fix was to use wheels from a Rivarossi E8. You have to verrry carefully ream them out a bit to fit onto the Tyco axles, but it gets easier as you go along.
One was so bad that the trucks themselves were beyond salvage, so I used a pair of Rivarossi U25C trucks as replacements. Had to make some minor modifications, but they worked.
As all of mine were basket cases, nowhere near the condition yours is, I wasn't too concerned with making changes.
Did you get the handrails with it? They pop up on ebay from time to time.
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Posted - July 03 2021 : 9:34:54 PM
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Wow. That work is beyond me, but it sounds like it worked out for you.
The Santa Fe C630 I got at a train store for 5 bucks, in supposed "parts" condition, but all it needed was a little TLC. My ICG C630, however, which I did an unboxing video on months ago, came out of its original box with a new pack of handrails. I didn't install them though, as I am not that good at installing Tyco handrails. Any tips?
"Let your light so shine before men, that they may see your good works, and glorify your Father which is in Heaven." - Matthew 5:16
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Posted - July 04 2021 : 09:41:53 AM
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I'm calling the police - you stole that loco!
I'm assuming the handrails are metal? But either way, you are in luck as I have found the Tyco handrails to be some of the easiest to install.
If they are metal, begin by sliding onto the railing the correct number of stanchions for whatever section you are working on. Then, start at one end - really doesn't matter which - and press the stanchions in one at a time, using the flat side of a small screwdriver. Like most other things, patience is your friend.
The end railings and short hood railings are a bit easier.
Keep in mind - and you probably already know this - those stanchions want to flop every way except where you want them. I try, especially on the long railings - to get them all lined up first in their proper position (roughly), flipped up....then flip them down into place as I go. You'll likely develop your own technique.
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Posted - July 04 2021 : 8:36:34 PM
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quote:I'm calling the police - you stole that loco!
I'm assuming the handrails are metal? But either way, you are in luck as I have found the Tyco handrails to be some of the easiest to install.
If they are metal, begin by sliding onto the railing the correct number of stanchions for whatever section you are working on. Then, start at one end - really doesn't matter which - and press the stanchions in one at a time, using the flat side of a small screwdriver. Like most other things, patience is your friend.
The end railings and short hood railings are a bit easier.
Keep in mind - and you probably already know this - those stanchions want to flop every way except where you want them. I try, especially on the long railings - to get them all lined up first in their proper position (roughly), flipped up....then flip them down into place as I go. You'll likely develop your own technique.
Originally posted by Crown Vic-July 04 2021: 09:41:53 AM
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LOL, I couldn't even believe the price, and the fact that it ran with minimal work done to it. 
Thanks for the tips - I'll definitely try that next time I install Tyco handrails.
"Let your light so shine before men, that they may see your good works, and glorify your Father which is in Heaven." - Matthew 5:16
Youtube Channel: www.youtube.com/rpmodelrailroads
Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/rp_model_railroads/
Edited by - RP model railroads on July 04 2021 8:36:48 PM
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