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 Posted - December 15 2017 : 3:17:24 PM
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I bought a used Tyco HO Chattanooga set. It's a later version, I think, because it comes with a Diesel engine instead of a steam engine. The engine wouldn't run, so I opened it and added some oil near the motor. With some pulsing of the power pack, the motor started turning and the wheels started turning. I should have stopped there, but I added another drop of oil, figuring that would make it even better. The problem is that the main drive gear appears to be press fit onto the motor shaft, and I got oil on that shaft. Now the motor spins freely without turning the gear. I left it for a while, but if the oil doesn't run out on its own, I'll need to get in there somehow to remove it, or I'll have to add some solder or adhesive to attach the shaft to the gear. Anyone run into an issue like this?
Bob
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Posted - December 15 2017 : 3:34:08 PM
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First of all, welcome to the Tyco Forum BobSadur! 
Yes, that has happened to me before also, whereupon I lubricated a Tyco PowerTorque locomotive because it wouldn't move, and then after oiling it, the drive gear was loosened or just popped off, and the motor shaft just turned freely. Oiling it too much wasn't really the problem, as far as I know, but rather the manner in which Tyco made those motors....:(
Unfortunately, older Tyco's with PowerTorque motors are prone to this issue (especially if they have been heavily used prior,) and I believe in order to truly fix it, I've heard word that the shaft has to basically be milled-down in order to allow the drive gear to properly fit back, and securely, onto the PT motor. Also, I read somewhere that if a high-tech adhesive is used, the gear can be glued back on the shaft, so to speak, and work once more. I caution you though, I used a basic adhesive which worked for a time, but now and then, the gear freezes up, and then re-loosens etc.
Because PT motors were widely produced on a variety of Tyco locomotives, it should be easy to simply find a replacement PT set of trucks which operate perfectly, in order to fix your Chattanooga GP20 (which is what it should be.) Ebay is an excellent place to look for Tyco trains which may operate, but whose shells are in need of replacement.
If anyone else has any other info than what I could think of, by all means, please add on! I do hope that whichever path you take, that you're able to repair your locomotive successfully.
Hope this helps!
-RP
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Posted - December 15 2017 : 4:53:47 PM
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also note that the tiny pinion gear has a tendency to pop off as well
It happened to me a couple times 
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Posted - December 15 2017 : 5:21:23 PM
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Wow, thanks for the quick responses! I'll check eBay for locomotives that look bad but run well. If I'm prepared to replace the truck anyway, I've probably got nothing to lose trying some Locktite or similar adhesive to keep the shaft and gear together. I don't think I need to mill the shaft, since the gear already fits, in fact it fits too easily.
Is it possible that this loose connection is designed to act as a clutch, so that if the train gets stuck, the motor can still turn instead of burning out? That's probably more thought than went into this particular design. :-)
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Posted - December 15 2017 : 5:26:21 PM
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Oh, and thanks for the welcome! :-)
I had a lot of fun with the Chattanooga Choo Choo (steam version) when I was a kid. I used it a few times after moving out on my own, but after moving a couple more times, I seem to have lost the whole set. I was always careful to put each car back into its box and put the whole set back together, but apparently not careful about keeping the whole thing. So I'm putting together a replacement set to run around the trees. I've ordered a Chattanooga steam engine too, but I don't know when that will arrive, so if I can coax the diesel into running I'll have some fun with it.
Bob
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Posted - December 15 2017 : 5:33:30 PM
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Okay, sounds like a good trajectory!! I hope all works out well for you, and please do share even more on the Tyco Forum, we would love to have your input. 
"Let your light so shine before men, that they may see your good works, and glorify your Father which is in Heaven." - Matthew 5:16
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Posted - December 16 2017 : 10:11:08 AM
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Yes, Bob, that pinion gear is the Achille's Heel of those Power Torque
motor. The motors also have a proclivity to burn out in an impressive
cloud of gray smoke. Perhaps that, too, was a way to add smoke effects
without the trouble of a smoke unit.
I have remedied my issues by A. never again purchasing a later model
Tyco powered unit with that sort of motor in it, and B. replacing those
motors I did have with the older MU-2 Mantua powered truck, which
is of an open frame design and is hardy.
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Posted - December 18 2017 : 5:20:21 PM
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Are the Mantua trucks compatible, or did you have to modify a truck to swap out the motor?
I added a drop of Locktite blue (removeable variant) to the pinion gear, which will hopefully be enough to make sure that it turns when the motor turns. I haven't run it yet, but I'll post a message when I do. I also purchased a locomotive so I could take the truck, as was suggested here, but now I'm thinking maybe I'd rather get a Mantua locomotive, if I can use the truck.
I've also received the steam engine in the mail. I'll oil it (but not too much!) and see if it runs. It will be fun to see the old set going again.
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Posted - December 18 2017 : 9:11:09 PM
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Compatability depends: some clip in with metal tabs on the side of the
motor frame- which will replace the PT motor you have, or the Mantua
motor would screw in, which may or may not be suitable if they chassis
has studs.
OR if you have, or know someone, who has a lathe, I've had luck with
milling down a suitable F chassis, in my case it was some NOS Model
Power chassis and placing the Tyco shell on that.
OR you could throw it over the wall, that always works.
Nice try and the Loctite, in my experience, fails miserably. RP, on the
other hand, runs his Tyco PT motors all the time without trouble.
Here's one where I chisled little slots in the shell to replace a PT
motor with a Mantua MU-2 motor.
Here's one where I am swapping out a real Tyco shell on a Model Power chassis.
Edited by - Chops124 on December 18 2017 9:22:25 PM
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Posted - December 18 2017 : 9:29:41 PM
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Good suggestions, Chops!
In regards to my use of PowerTorque motors, all of those I use are ones that haven't been repaired, and upon taking Chops' advice, I replace all traction tires with Goody's Hairband traction tires (the clear ones fit tighter and resemble Calumets.) For lubricating, I am now using Liberty Oil, an actual synthetic train oil that works much better than plain 3-in-1.
Hope you continue to have success, Bob!!
"Let your light so shine before men, that they may see your good works, and glorify your Father which is in Heaven." - Matthew 5:16
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Posted - December 19 2017 : 2:31:16 PM
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If I could simply replace a truck, I'd do it, but if If I have to replace the motor in a truck, I'll probably opt for Chops's other suggestion, to throw it over the wall. I've got a Santa Fe diesel on the way, so if that runs well I'll swap trucks with the Chattanooga. I tested the diesel yesterday, to see if my Loctite would hold, and the motor didn't turn at all. I thought maybe I glued it, but it turns freely by hand. I like the challenge of getting it running, but with the new truck on the way, it isn't as important as it was.
On the brighter side, I got the steam engine going yesterday. It ran right away, but made pretty bad squeaky noises. I put sewing machine oil on the axles and drive gears, and now it's pretty quiet. Probably the gears need something heavier, like grease, but the oil is all I have.
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Posted - December 19 2017 : 5:54:30 PM
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| Does Liberty oil come in different viscosities? I looked it up on Amazon, and they only had one type. Liquid bearings oil comes packaged for different scale trains, but they don't say anything about the viscosity, so it's possible that they're just putting different labels on the same oil.
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Posted - December 19 2017 : 9:56:08 PM
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Yeah, I actually found mine, a small bottle, on Ebay, and it says that it's for Bachmann trains, yet it works fine on my Tycos......so, I agree, they're just labeling it for different manufacturers/scales. But, I don't think the oil is any different.
"Let your light so shine before men, that they may see your good works, and glorify your Father which is in Heaven." - Matthew 5:16
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Posted - December 20 2017 : 1:52:46 PM
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| Put the steam engine around the tree yesterday. It was great to see it running. Now I have a new issue, which is that I can't pull even a single car without the drive wheels slipping. It would help if my floor were level. :-) This is off topic at this point, but I'll probably need to do something to get more traction. Replacing the tires looks like it's a bit of a pain, but I see Bullfrog Snot for sale, that claims to restore the traction. I guess I'll try it, and if doesn't work, I'll get the screwdriver and some Goody's Hairband tires.
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Posted - December 20 2017 : 2:31:39 PM
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I've used Bullfrog snot on my Tyco and some other pieces.
If found out it does NOT apply well or stick to the Derilin plastic
wheels of Tyco. It repeatedly peeled off like a little donut.
I had better luck with metal drive wheels, where it stuck
and stayed, but the stuff is like $25 for a small bottle.
(The Snot was lent unto me). For most applications,
cheap Goody's Hair Bands, available at Walmart,
using the smallest ones, work well.
They inevitably have a little twist when they are first
installed, but that seems to smooth out quickly
enough. They are cheap as can be, but does
require dismantling the Tyco truck side frame
which typically means gluing it back on with Lock Tite,
or JB weld.
Vintage rubber traction tires always get old and dry out
and break apart, which sounds like what happened to you.
Try Goody's for a buck first.
The video of this F unit below is a vintage Tyco with an
MU2 motor and Goody's hair bands- it works good.
https://youtu.be/kbpTeRFVGIk
Edited by - Chops124 on December 20 2017 2:32:21 PM
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Posted - December 20 2017 : 2:34:01 PM
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quote:I've used Bullfrog Snot on my Tyco and some other pieces.
It does NOT apply well or stick to the Derilin plastic
wheels of Tyco. It repeatedly peeled off like a little donut.
I had better luck with metal drive wheels, where it stuck
and stayed, but the stuff is like $25 for a small bottle.
(The Snot was lent to me). For most applications,
cheap Goody's Hair Bands, available at Walmart,
using the smallest ones, work well.
They inevitably have a little twist when they are first
installed, but that seems to smooth out quickly
enough. They are cheap as can be, but does
require dismantling the Tyco truck side frame
which typically means gluing it back on with Lock Tite,
or JB weld.
Vintage rubber traction tires always get old and dry out
and break apart, which sounds like what happened to you.
Try Goody's for a buck first.
The video of this F unit below is a vintage Tyco with an
MU2 motor and Goody's hair bands- it works good.
https://youtu.be/kbpTeRFVGIk
Originally posted by Chops124Â -Â December 20 2017Â :Â 2:31:39 PM
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Posted - December 20 2017 : 2:34:17 PM
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I definitely recommend using Goody's Hairband traction tires, they are fairly easy to install and work well (I put Goody's hairband traction tires on my Silver Streak standard PT after lubing, and it pulls 10 or more cars now!) If you want a good applicant/glue, that is also fairly easy to remove later down the line, I recommend hot glue, for re-installing the truck cover. Although, it may take 2-3 trials for the hot glue to work (if the truck has oil/dirt on it.)
"Let your light so shine before men, that they may see your good works, and glorify your Father which is in Heaven." - Matthew 5:16
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Posted - December 20 2017 : 2:51:43 PM
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Funny, I thought that Hairband was a cute name for something designed for trains, but it sounds like they're actually for hair. If they work, that's all that matters. I think I can take the drive unit in the tender apart and put it together without glue, but I'm not sure. I was going to apply that Bulldog stuff to the tires, but it sounds like I'd be better off cutting them off and applying it to the wheels.
I may have to break down and ask Santa for a new locomotive. There's probably a whole forum just for that, but any recommendations for reliable steam engines? Ideally someone makes or made a higher-quality one that also says "Chattanooga" on it.
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Posted - December 20 2017 : 6:23:22 PM
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Found this on eBay today:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Tyco-Mantua-HO-F7A-Amtrak-106-Diesel-Locomotive/152772495308?_trkparms=aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D49452%26meid%3De51f83e753f8473ab1814155391eb473%26pid%3D100675%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D15%26sd%3D152772495308&_trksid=p2481888.c100675.m4236&_trkparms=pageci%253Ad2885cc3-e5db-11e7-ae95-74dbd1806b18%257Cparentrq%253A7636dc581600a887e3327c0afff0671b%257Ciid%253A1
Is it likely to have the good (MU-2) motor? It looks like the couplers are compatible with the cars I have, so if it runs I may just pull my trains with it for a while, and do the transplant later.
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Posted - December 20 2017 : 6:25:17 PM
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Oops, this is the one I had in mind, because it runs:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Mantua-Tyco-HO-Scale-Amtrak-4316-Diesel-Locomotive/352234486605?_trksid=p2485497.m4902.l9144
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Posted - December 20 2017 : 6:41:17 PM
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Yes, actually, I didn't even know about Goody's Hairbands, until Chops informed me that he used them as traction tires on his locomotives, and they worked with success. I then tried it, and was surprised that they worked so well!
I'm not 100% sure about this, but after doing a quick Ebay search, it appears that AHM made HO-Scale steamers, labeled for "Chattanooga." Like this one for example: https://www.ebay.com/itm/HO-Scale-AHM-0-8-0-Chattanooga-Steam-Loco-917-Tender/173037971103?hash=item2849dde69f:g:5KUAAOSweExaCKfN
That Amtrak Tyco F9 definitely is an MU-motor type, with the back truck being a snap-in, while the front truck is screw-in. Beware, the front truck will need the "screw-in" frame thingy (my high-tech name)  switched out for a snap-in type (which I believe can be acheived by simply removing a screw holding the screw-in truck's frame which is contained within the body, on the actual front truck itself) and then replacing it with a "snap-in" type, as most likely, your steamer or GP20 feature snap-in trucks.
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Posted - December 20 2017 : 7:21:03 PM
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| Thanks for the link? I'll bid on the Amtrak diesel as well as the Chattanooga you found. I'm beginning to see how a person can end up with a lot of trains. :-)
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Posted - December 20 2017 : 8:09:52 PM
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Speaking strictly for myself, Bob, and I am a "shake-the-box" kind of guy, I prefer
Athearn, including their steam locomotives, especially the vintage Blue Box, NOS,
if you can find them. I have owned several Bachmann products, including a British
HO piece, and with rare exception (I have an E60 that works good) the motors and
worse, the side rods, are flimsy crap.
Bachmann makes beautiful pieces, and then louses them up with really atrocious
motors and side rods that loose bolts and nuts within ten minutes of running. On
the other hand, they have a good warranty policy, which is well, as you will probably
be needing it.
Sorry, Bachmann and Bachmann fans, but thrice burned, four times a doofus. Bachmann
needs to put in motors and side rods that are worthy of the excellent detailing.
Here's a vintage goody, and check out the bidding- nobody wants it!!! I have one, and
it runs like a champ, is at least fifty years old. Here's a video of it, I love this vintage
rail beater:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/HO-Mantua-Union-Pacific-2-8-2-Mikado-Engine/292376815328?_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIM.MBE%26ao%3D2%26asc%3D41376%26meid%3Db9ed31449fcd4adea1bb78aad2c0912e%26pid%3D100623%26rk%3D3%26rkt%3D6%26sd%3D152772495308&_trksid=p2047675.c100623.m-1
Check out the video. Now this was QUALITY.
https://youtu.be/zpu2-YVWecY
While I'm at it, I have heard a lot of negatives about the drive trains of Proto 2000. I guess
they mostly make diesels.
Again, ONLY my experience. I wish I had better things to say.
Edited by - Chops124 on December 20 2017 8:17:03 PM
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Posted - December 20 2017 : 8:27:42 PM
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Thanks, Chops. I guess I'll bid on the Mikado too.
Is there modern stuff that's any good? I've heard that DCC is a big thing, but it's more important to me that it runs well. Do they ever publish how many watts or microhorsepower a locomotive produces, or do we just find that out by trial and error?
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Posted - December 23 2017 : 10:07:40 AM
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Let us know how that goes. By the way, check out this interesting article in GIC's
archival thread. A lot of interesting information here about F units under this
heading:
Worldwide Wagons: Tyco's F-units
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Posted - January 02 2018 : 2:27:22 PM
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I received the AHM Chattanooga recently, and it's great! It has electrical pickup from three wheels on each side, and weighs enough that it can pull a long train without needing traction tires. I bought the Mikado too, though it hasn't yet arrived.
I received Goody's hair bands, but they weren't what I expected. They have a fabric coating on them. Fortunately, my girlfriend likes them for her hair. :-) I've got some of that Bullfrog Snot coming too, which I'll try painting directly onto the metal wheels of the Chattanooga tender.
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Posted - January 02 2018 : 3:17:15 PM
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somewhere I has 1 or 2 of those Rio Grande locos by Tyco
they go with that 4 car passenger set in last weeks COTW
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Posted - January 02 2018 : 7:51:49 PM
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quote:I received Goody's hair bands, but they weren't what I expected. They have a fabric coating on them.
Originally posted by BobSadur - January 02 2018 : 2:27:22 PM
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The hair bands that work as traction tires come in a blister package labeled "goody Classics", with a number 12670 on the upper left corner of the card. I picked up a pack for 99 cents at Wal-Mart. The package contains some large number of black rubber bands in assorted sizes. The smallest ones work well as traction tires on diesels. I have a ROCO shark that uses them. They don't seem to last as long as original tires, but at oodles for 99 cents, you can afford to go through them.
Carpe Manana!
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Posted - January 02 2018 : 9:25:07 PM
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quote: quote:I received Goody's hair bands, but they weren't what I expected. They have a fabric coating on them.
Originally posted by BobSadur - January 02 2018 : 2:27:22 PM
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The hair bands that work as traction tires come in a blister package labeled "goody Classics", with a number 12670 on the upper left corner of the card. I picked up a pack for 99 cents at Wal-Mart. The package contains some large number of black rubber bands in assorted sizes. The smallest ones work well as traction tires on diesels. I have a ROCO shark that uses them. They don't seem to last as long as original tires, but at oodles for 99 cents, you can afford to go through them.
Originally posted by scsshaggy - January 02 2018 : 7:51:49 PM
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In addition, Goody's Hairband classics are made in "clear" as well, and the clear types, while thinner in width than the black rubber ones, are a tighter fit to the powered truck wheels.
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Posted - January 03 2018 : 3:42:16 PM
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Goody classics. Thanks! I'll look for the clear ones. Meanwhile I'll put the locomotive on the bench and see if the smoker works. As I recall from the 70s, it has to go at high speed for a while, which probably means I can't have smoke until I tack down the track. Running loose on the floor, the train goes off the track before any smoke comes out.
Got the Mikado yesterday. I like that it can be oiled without taking it apart. I may open it anyway, so I can check and clean the electrical contacts. I'll probably run it tonight.
I'll post some videos when I figure out how to do that.
Bob
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Posted - January 03 2018 : 9:47:38 PM
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Awesome! Can't wait to see those videos!
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