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kb1857
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 Posted - February 28 2017 : 9:15:15 PM
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okay here are some more pictures and questions that id like to throw out to the group and see what sticks or i can use.This is the front part of the layout which was the was the last thing i did to it putting up the last piece of track in 2015.  This is a derailment waiting to happen.I just found two things,railroad modeling 101 dont put a switch right off a curve or right at a curve lol.second thing I found out is atlas#4 switches are crap but in a tight spot where i was tight for space i had figured to get to this little spur off to the side at the front of table where my feed and grain mill is and a manual throw that i could get to too operate,Iam asking for suggestions here as to iam thinking about adding three more inches to the front of the table so i can smooth area out with the curve then i can put in a no#6 switch parallel to the straight part of the track and run the siding spur to the left in stead of straight or slightly right  ive gotta add room any way on both side of the layout because its one continueous curve and on the other side of this curve is another derailment waiting to happen because it slants slightly then runs into another crap #4 switch.anybody got any suggestions comments? any m80s so i can blow itUp?
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bnsfIA
Big Six
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Posted - February 28 2017 : 9:33:34 PM
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| What type of track are you using(steel,brass,NS etc.)?Also which radius curves are you using? If you are using 18" curves then I suggest changing to 22 or 24" radius curved.
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kb1857
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Posted - February 28 2017 : 9:40:19 PM
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To add here is two more pictures of the same curve at the other side of table where i can add about three inches maybe mounting another 4 by 6 perhaps raising it a bit to get it level at this end where it slants some  I mean I have by hand dragged a small consist (about three coal cars)across this area and they either hang up in the no#4 switch or derail every time Ive even swapped out the wheels from plastic to metal 33's and while it helps a bit its to much hassle on this little single tack spur that i wanta keep at the front of layout.
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kb1857
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Posted - February 28 2017 : 9:47:29 PM
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| Iam using nickle silver track on this front section and this is 83 flex track,i used originally a steel curve from an old tyco true steel as a sorta templet but i was shooting for 18 inch curves at that time to cram everything in,I think 22 at a gradual curve would work better this time around to smooth out some
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kb1857
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Posted - February 28 2017 : 9:52:57 PM
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| By the by ive got some of the true steel curves left,what radius of curves were they originally? and if i wanted to put some of it with the nickle silver is that gonna cause me problems? I know it had cleaning issues but what ive got is in good shape no rust some of it still new in the package(sealed I mean)
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bnsfIA
Big Six
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Posted - March 01 2017 : 5:06:11 PM
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Tyco curves were originally all 18" radius, BUT don't use the steel track. It conducts better and in the short run,its ok. But I would recommend switching to Atlas/Bachmann nickel silver track. It saves you money and time not having to uproot the old steel track once it goes bad. NS also requires less cleaning and doesn't rust or tarnish. Also. 18" curves do not work that great with longer models.
Edited by - bnsfIA on March 01 2017 5:07:22 PM
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kb1857
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Posted - March 02 2017 : 8:52:19 PM
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| yes thank you for answering my question ,I ve' got a a bunch of the nickle silver 22 inch curves pieces coming about 25 so i should be able to start putting in curves sunday, monday of next week .Today i just spent pulling up old track and getting two tables loose and you wouldn't believe the amount of tyco steel rail I had in this layout mixed with the nickle silver flex track which i think contributed to my electrical connection problems (along with a lousy wiring job i did lol)
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Posted - March 08 2017 : 6:09:23 PM
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I have similar problems. Usually by relaying the track, or switching out a
particularly troublesome turnout, the bugs slowly work out. Sometimes the
pins on the old horn hook couplers catch on frogs, and that is an easy snip-snip to
about half length.
Kadees require a lot of bench time carefully mounting and bending the air hoses
to precisely the right height. Kadees are a fine product, but you must have the
patience of a saint and a keen eye. Which is to say, they are not for me!
Clean track is the constant bugaboo of model railroading. Lots of expensive
track cleaning kits and rolling stock out there. I use Wahl Hair Clipper Oil.
Wipe on, wipe off, and it keeps track highly conductive for months. And CHEAP. Available at beauty supply stores.
Keep posting. I like what you are doing. The coach yard in the middle of the layout is a nice touch.
Rather unique. You will get this right!
Edited by - Chops124 on March 09 2017 4:46:09 PM
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