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 Posted - August 20 2006 : 1:52:05 PM
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I have 2 different F7A units which are absolutely mint with the exception of their front couplers being busted. These are "riveted" on. Any ideas on how to fix these?
For 1 of the 2 I do have the broken coupler and can probably cement it back together, but I have no idea how to replace the other.
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Posted - August 20 2006 : 8:14:47 PM
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NYC:
The "rivet" is a slightly tapered metal screw with an unthreaded convex head. I've lost track of the number of these I've repaired over the years: a lot, in any event. Since the nylon NMRA coupler is cabbaged anyway, remove the remnants with a sharp exacto through the nose aperture--just slice 'til you hit the metal of the rivet and extract. Then take a good rigid needle nose pliers and work out the rivet. All that's left to do is replace the coupler and reinsert the rivet with a good solid push.
Sometimes the rivet will seem to resist extraction but be patient. If you're worried about possible damage to a pristine body, practice on a basket case. By way of encouragement, however, I've NEVER failed to get the rivet out and have not heard of anyone doing damage in the process of executing this procedure.
MagnoliaAcademy
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Posted - August 20 2006 : 9:29:27 PM
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Thanks, that's great to hear, I thought it was more of a permanent type of attachment.
[:D]
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Posted - August 21 2006 : 11:40:01 PM
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NYC:
Good Luck! Be vewy, vewy caw-ful.
MagAc
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Posted - August 21 2006 : 11:41:27 PM
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NYC:
Good Luck! Be vewy, vewy caw-ful.
MagAc
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Posted - August 21 2006 : 11:46:24 PM
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MagAc - I bow to the master! Thanks for that tip, I've also a few Matua pieces that either need couplers, or beg for Kadee conversions. I wasn't sure how to attempt it, but I might give it a shot now.
NYC - One other option might be to swap drive assemblies, for one that has an intact coupler. Or at the very least, take them out of the shell before attempting the repair. Just a thought.
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Posted - August 22 2006 : 12:27:25 AM
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Removing the drive assemblies is probably prudent--for those really pristine bodies you mentioned. On the other hand, they (the old metal ones in particular) lend some integrity to the shell as you muck about with your pliers. Either route I believe requires just a little patience, practice and common sense. THEY DO COME OUT (heck, some dainty Jersey philly probably pushed them in, after all).
MagnoliaAcademy
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Posted - September 02 2006 : 10:29:02 PM
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quote:
NYC - One other option might be to swap drive assemblies, for one that has an intact coupler. Or at the very least, take them out of the shell before attempting the repair. Just a thought.
Originally posted by GoingInCirclez - August 22 2006 : 04:46:24 AM
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The couplers in question are actually "riveted" to the shell itself NOT the truck.
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Posted - September 02 2006 : 11:30:52 PM
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quote:The couplers in question are actually "riveted" to the shell itself NOT the truck.
Originally posted by New York Central - September 03 2006 : 03:29:02 AM
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Hmm. I wonder if it's not just a pin? My Rock Island Shark had the front coupler mounted on the shell. It looked like a rivet, but was really just a round-head pin.
If you use a nice pair of small needlenose pliers, you should be able to grab the head and pull it firmly straight out.
The pin on my shark might have been plastic. If that were the case you could drill it out.
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Posted - September 03 2006 : 12:24:24 AM
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| MagAc has a great explanation above which was very helpful.
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Posted - September 03 2006 : 12:42:15 AM
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| Ahh, I thought it was about the truck-mounted couplers, which is all I've seen (aside from the pins in the later shell-mounted diesels). My bad. I would still like to know how to fix those truck-mounts.
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jlong
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Posted - October 11 2006 : 11:49:23 PM
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Anyone know what couple works on Tyco/Mantua GP-20's?
John Long
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